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Interest INT: Active project: 1:1 accurate MAUSER REPLICA is READY!!!
- Thread starter scottjua
- Start date
deadbolt
Sr Member
Heat on it's own is mostly used for hardening/heat treating steel rather than bluing, case-hardening on the other hand can change the color but it's more of a rainbow-like mixture of colors.
Hot bluing is this best option which is done with molten bluing salts that the parts are dipped in, but you'd have to find a gunsmith/steel finish expert to have that done for a reasonable cost.
Cold bluing is the most commonly used option for finishing replicas at home, it's easy to do on your own and doesn't require any special equipment. Just make sure to decrease the parts thoroughly first so the bluing takes well. Personally I'd recommend Oxpho-Blue from Brownells for a professional looking finish and good durability, as far as cold-blue goes it's pretty much the best you can get.
-Carson
Flame blue the trigger, safety lever, rear sight leaf, bolt stop. and extractor...
Main body and slide can (should) be rust blued. No bluing on the hammer, bolt, sight leaf, takedown latch, or internals (including inside the frame). The latter parts should be left "in the white" (raw steel).
Main body and slide can (should) be rust blued. No bluing on the hammer, bolt, sight leaf, takedown latch, or internals (including inside the frame). The latter parts should be left "in the white" (raw steel).
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There are probably better vids out there for rust bluing, but this shows the basics...
Hey, by any chance, do these come with a business card for a rock-solid divorce attorney?
I'm asking for a friend.
I'm asking for a friend.
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Halifax, the flame bluing takes CAREFUL heating... even heat... and prep. You just start torching stuff and you'll go too far too fast. It's not as easy as it looks. That brown ell's video above they show the screw go past blue in the blink of an eye... they don't show the multiple attempts to get it like their final pic. lol
russellsch
Master Member
That is stunning Stunning STUNNING!!! Just beautiful work, as always! 
Hey Chris, just a question to make sure I understand correctly the choices on the website.
If for instance I take the full barrel version with the predrilled Luke Bespin Scope and Mount for +109$, what do I get?
Mauser + holes already made for the mount + scope + mount and I need to buy the flash hider separetely?
thanks
Hey Field Marshall can you answer that question, I think it was overlooked as it was the last message from previous page. thanks a lot
Also, if I finally decide to buy it, will shipping to France work then?
Scott - could you share some details on how you prepped Field Marshall's Mauser? What grits of sandpaper and what you used to blue the parts? The lower body looks darker than the upper part and some of the parts are real blue and other's more grey? Also I assume you added the numbering to the rear of the gun since mine doesn't have any numbering. GORGEOUS prop builds - hard to imagine it could get any better at this point.
If there are question you need answered quick email me direct Chris@warmachineinc.comHey Chris, just a question to make sure I understand correctly the choices on the website.
If for instance I take the full barrel version with the predrilled Luke Bespin Scope and Mount for +109$, what do I get?
Mauser + holes already made for the mount + scope + mount and I need to buy the flash hider separetely?
thanks
Finally i got the walnut stembridge grips completed...................................... i have really love this variant and it has not been done very much because the grip are impossible to find ..............................
Went ahead and made more of the Stembridge FH tooooo...
Wow, those grips are awesome, Chris! Thank you for doing these. And I couldn't help but notice those BRASS knobs/covers!!!
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Nice! I’ve spotted the checkered grips on a few gun sites, and remembered seeing them on one of the blasters but not which. If anyone is interested, I probably have a lead on some rubber versions… At least I think there rubber.
Nice work on the grips Chris! I have a few sets today I’ve been hand cutting the lines into woodblanks using a checkering tool. It’s a lot of work but they look just like the old ones, Casali did it back in the day I think.
Nice work on the grips Chris! I have a few sets today I’ve been hand cutting the lines into woodblanks using a checkering tool. It’s a lot of work but they look just like the old ones, Casali did it back in the day I think.
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