In Loveing Memory of my 1st Body sculpt!

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nighthunter

New Member
Well Guys as the Title says , I sit since over two Months at home with a slipped disc ! In the 3rd week it was so boring and i start to sculpt my Predator Body!

Yesterday i opened the mold, but the plaster stuck very firmly on the clay ! I use waterbased varnish for the seperating layer! The mold was more than 2 inches thick Iám not sure what the hell was wrong ??!! The complete mold is broken, and I use 3 layer Bandages for molding ! :)







R.I.P

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skunk

New Member
Thats a damn shame man....excellent work, you must be gutted...you got good spirit tho....you named the thread "in loving memory of your 1st body"......so you've OBVIOUSLY already decided that your not going to give up on it and you're going to attempt another :)
Nice work on the sculpt man..and I hope you get to the bottom of what went wrong with your mould.

Lee
 

nighthunter

New Member
Thanks for comments guys. I had the problem that the plaster so firmly stuck to the clay, that the contours broken out on the mold. Thousand little pieces stuck on the back! It looked so as if the plaster has not connected to the other gypsum layers!

@ Skunk ! Yeah man that was my 1st try to sculpt a Pred Body and i will try it again ! NEVER GIVE UP!

@ alphatech ! The waist from the Sculpt looks smaller as he really was ! The waist was 109 cm ! And the mold is brocken in 5000000000 pieces :-(

I think i start next Year again ! :) I need new clay to sculpt !
 

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smasher

New Member
that sucks dude if i was you i would gett some oil base clay and sculpt it again with that because that is 1 hell of an awesome torso sculpt wet clay i find is a ass to work with i only uses the stuff on my keys for my sculpt mold :)
 

Mannowar

New Member
I would ditch the varnish and use Crystal Clear. Varnish is used more for silicone molds where you'll either be casting in silicone or foam latex, and even then, you'd still need a release agent. Varnish will dry so hard that if there is just the slightest undercut, you'll have mold damage where the varnish wouldn't allow it to release easily.

Regarding your quote "It looked so as if the plaster has not connected to the other gypsum layers!"... a few questions... Did you use 2 different kinds of plaster, and were you using plaster of paris or Ultra Cal? Stay away from plaster of paris... And did you actually use plaster bandages or did you use burlap and just call it bandages? Plaster bandages likely won't be strong enough for a mold of that size, especially a multi piece mold that will need to be pryed apart. I'd go with 2 to 3 layers of burlap (4 layers on the flanges whey you'll be prying) or use hemp, but I generally only use hemp for support molds as I find that you tend to get air pockets, creating weak spots in the mold, no matter how careful you are. I generally only use hemp for my support mold. About the only thing I'd consider using plaster bandages for would be support shells for a silicone mold, but burlap is cheaper and more effective anyway.

Lastly, did you apply your "bandage" layers immediately or was the detail coat of plaster already set? You want to apply your burlap layers as soon as you can touch the detail layer without leaving much of a mark... when it is just past the point of being "gooey" but not really heating up yet in the set-up stage. If you wait until the detail coat of plaster sets (heats, then cools), you won't get good adhesion with your additional layers.

Good luck on the next attempt!
 

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nighthunter

New Member
OHH Damn ! Thanks Scott for the Informations!

1. Yes i use 2 different kinds of Plaster the first Plaster is for the Details a kind of Relief plaster from the Hobby Shop! Now i use Plaster of paris, then i make a layer with Plaster bandages ! Now i let i dry for 3-4 Days and then the next layer Plaster of paris, 3 days Later the last 2 Layers of Plaster Bandages !

2 I think i found the 2 biggest Problems ! 1. Two different Plaster ! 2. no Vaseline !

The detail layer of plaster has not connect with the other Plaster Layers ! The detail Layer broke out of the mold over all

I opened the mold very carefull! 2hours !! :p

I found some plaster under the bumbs on his back, it looks as if to undermine the clay

What is Ultra cal? And what is Crystal Clear?? Did you mix the hemp under the Plaster ? It is very difficult for me to find the same Stuff that you have to work Scott!

What is with Latex for realese agent ? can i use Latex??

What is with a fiberglasmold? I found stuff it call´s "Elastohaut" it is a 2component Latex that would dry in 5 minutes !
or is it better to use plaster ?

Scott thanks for your help !!
 

Mannowar

New Member
OHH Damn ! Thanks Scott for the Informations!

1. Yes i use 2 different kinds of Plaster the first Plaster is for the Details a kind of Relief plaster from the Hobby Shop! Now i use Plaster of paris, then i make a layer with Plaster bandages ! Now i let i dry for 3-4 Days and then the next layer Plaster of paris, 3 days Later the last 2 Layers of Plaster Bandages !

Stick with one plaster. Not sure where you are (I'm assuming overseas), but here's a link with a variety of Euro suppliers. I clicked on a 3 or 4 of them and did find a couple with gypsums that sound very similar to Ultra-Cal 30. You might also try contacting USG to see if there are any Euro distributors of Ultra-cal. Here's the link:
Links to suppliers

Also, ditch the plaster bandages. Burlap is available at probably any hardware store (usually in the gardening section) in large rolls and is far cheaper and far stronger. You'll likely need a roll that's about 12 meters x 1 meter wide... Cut it into small strips, say 6" x 3". You'll want the detail coat maybe 1/4" thick. With a mold this size, I'd start mixing my next batch of plaster as soon as I finish the detail coat. You'll be dunking the strips into the newly mixed plaster to soak them thoroughly, then apply them... you'll repeat this process 2 to 3 more times to build up the thickness to 3 to 4 layers. Let the plaster set up until cold to the touch, then you're ready to do the other half.

The only time I use vaseline is on the flanges, where the mold halves meet. I don't vaseline the sculpt. A couple coats of Krylon's Crystal Clear Acrylic spray paint is enough to protect the sculpt as well as serve as a release agent. I do make sure to get plenty of vaseline on the flanges and down into the key holes making sure that no raw plaster on the flanges is exposed.


The detail layer of plaster has not connect with the other Plaster Layers ! The detail Layer broke out of the mold over all

Most likely due to the fact that you're using two different plasters as well as you're waiting until the plaster sets to continue adding layers. You'll want to set aside enough time to do one entire side, detail coat, and 3 to 4 layers of burlap all in one setting.


What is Ultra cal? And what is Crystal Clear?? Did you mix the hemp under the Plaster ? It is very difficult for me to find the same Stuff that you have to work Scott!

Ultra-cal maybe a bit difficult to find, but something similar will suffice. Crystal Clear is a clear acrylic spray paint made by several different companies, but I prefer Krylon. Most likely, this or something similar is available where you are. As mentioned above burlap shouldn't be hard to find and once cut into strips, it's dunked into the plaster to soak it, then apply it.

What is with Latex for realese agent ? can i use Latex??

If you use the Krylon Crystal Clear, you won't really need a release agent, but if you feel more comfortable, by all means use vaseline. I guess it may also depend on the clay you're sculpting with. The Kleen Klay that I use is medium firmness, but compared to Chavant medium, Kleen Klay is just a wee bit softer. If you're using firm or extra firm clays, then you might want to use the vaseline on the sculpt, but I never have to with Kleen Klay... So I guess to be safe, go with the vaseline since I don't know exactly what you're using.

What is with a fiberglasmold? I found stuff it call´s "Elastohaut" it is a 2component Latex that would dry in 5 minutes !
or is it better to use plaster ?

You'll need a stone mold if you're casting in latex. The reason for this is that for the latex to cure properly and evenly, the moisture needs to be removed from it. The porousness of the plaster allows this to happen. Plastics, fiberglass, etc, are not porous enough for latex to cure properly. It will air cure to some extent (i.e. the latex that cures in the plastic container), but you won't get even coverage throughout the entire mold. It might work in a plastic or fiberglass mold if you had enough latex to dwell it in the entire mold, but it would take a LOT of latex fill a dwell that size and probably take quite a few dwellings for even coverage and even then, likely wouldn't turn out like you hope... stick with plaster.

Scott thanks for your help !!
 
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nighthunter

New Member
Thanks Scott !

Ok i think i´am ready for the next one ! My Brain got a upload! Scott 2.0 ! :p

And i will try it again! Thanks to all for your Help and Links ect .
 

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