IG88 Build

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by reddetnesahc, May 20, 2015.

  1. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Wanted to start a new thread for the IG88 Costume I have started.
  2. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    uploadfromtaptalk1432138174336.png I started with the dream of creating a screen accurate costume of Iggy.
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  3. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    I used the picture above, along with dimensions from people online to figure out the proper size.
  4. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    I then used this photo to estimate the height of him. He is clearly taller than Vader. Take into account that the camera angle is pointing up, IG88 is 5 feet in the background, and a step down... I approximate that IG88 is between 7'3" and 7'9".

    Most people who have built him as a prop seem to agree he is more in the 7-8 foot range.

    I wanted to see if it could be done. So, I took some pictures of him from ESB, and took a picture of myself. I imported them into a CAD program and scaled them properly. Here was the result.


    I couldn't believe it. It is almost a perfect fit! So, from there I knew that I had to try the impossible.
    Last edited: May 20, 2015
  5. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    I went ahead and tried to model the head in my CAD software (sketchup). I figured if I could model the head, I could model the rest of the body. Iggy's head is his most distinctive feature (IMHO), and therefore, should be the most accurate. 1 month later, I was able to come up with this.


    Yipee! If I could model this, I could model anything (so I thought). I don't have much experience in molding / shaping, costuming, or have any mechanical skills. I am a EE, so I figured I should play to my strong suits (computers, electronics, programming). I decided on acquiring a 3D printer, scanner, and very screen accurate model of IG88. 1 month later, it came in.

  6. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    I have to note that the 3D scanner wasn't much help. I looked at a few scanners, and talked to a couple people at a 3D printing convention. The technology just isn't there, yet. Here is the best scan I could get from my IG88 model.


    Not exactly usable. But, I digress.

    The modeling in CAD was a little more difficult than it should have been. A lot of looking back and forth in between screenshots from ESB, and measuring through the CAD program. Finally 3 months later it was mostly complete.


    - - - Updated - - -

    While modeling in CAD, I started to print out the head. There were a lot of errors while printing. 4 months of printing and I am still fine tuning the printer to be "just right".


  7. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    It took a while to print, but come Mid-February I was finally able to finish printing the Head.


    I used ABS plastic for the entire build because of its ability to be dissolvable in Acetone. It actually molecularly fuses with itself with the proper amount of acetone. It is almost 1 seemless piece. It was my goal to make the entire costume with the fewest seems possible (to make it easier for 501st approval).
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
  8. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Early April came along and I was stressed. I really wanted to get the costume built, painted, and polished for Celebration. This is as far as I got with the rest of the costume.


    Needless to say, I was on a war path for the next two weeks. Even during Celebration, I was driving home to work on it more at night.
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
  9. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    For those of you who saw me at Celebration, thanks for your encouraging support. I definitely did not feel like I was anywhere near ready for it.


    But it was really fun running around with the head on.
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
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  10. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    I tried to reach out to a few people with the 501st on day 3 of Celebration. Some seemed interested in seeing the costume. So, on day 4, despite it being far from finished, I took it to Celebration to get some critiques or recommendations from the 501st.

    Sadly, due to some parking issues, and the number of pieces / size of the costume, I was dropped off at the other end of the convention wearing the costume.

    I ran into some fun people along the way:


    Haha, I got a lot of flak for my shoes. But I wasn't able to walk very well.

    Last edited: May 21, 2015
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  11. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Three hours and what I think was only half a mile later, I made it to the 501st booth. They were very impressed, but those who were there, were not very familiar with IG88, but supportive.

    I was able to attend my local garrison's armor party last weekend. I still don't have rifles or grenades, but is closer to where I was hoping I would be at Celebration.


    And as a comparison

    Last edited: May 21, 2015
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  12. Captain April

    Captain April Sr Member

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    Not that it matters for this build but for future reference, it is best to paint your subject with flat white paint before laser scanning. If you don't want to paint your model then you can cover it in talcum powder. I worked on a laser scanning project many years ago and it seems that they still haven't cracked the shiny surface problem.
  13. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Okay ... I'm not certain why ... but some of your attachments aren't working for me ... and I'm not on a mobile wireless device ... just my mac with huge cinema display ... please look into it so I can comment properly :)

  14. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Thanks for the tip. I didn't want to ruin the model, so, I tried covering it with flour, hoping that would help. It did, but not enough to be worth using the scan. I think the consumer scanners are not there, yet.
  15. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    I think I fixed it up Chaim.

    - Chasen
  16. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    I am going to try to make this build a little more detailed, hopefully a rough draft to make a CRL.

    Like I said before, I started with the Head of IG88. I do not have access to a Derwent Flame Tube, but from other forums, I gleaned the overall measurements. I measured out his head and separated the Head into a several sections to help me break down how to design it. I think these are the minimum amount of sections you would need to accurately make IG88's head.


    If you can see that, his head is broken up into 10 sections.The bottom Section #1 is not really part of his head, but rather his neck. Although the Derwent Flame Tube utilizes this section as part of the tube.

    Section #2 is where we see the Large diameter holes appear. It overlaps Section 1, and has a small band that separates it from Section #3. It is not a pure cylinder because it increases in diameter as it approaches Section #3. It better resembles the bottom piece of a cone in that way.

    Section #3 further increases in diameter as it goes up, similar to Section #2, but should be shorter in height (compared to Section #2. Although, its rate of diameter increase is about the same as Section #2.

    Section #4 is only visible from a few shots, but as can be seen in this shot, it is stamped with many small holes. This image shoes the "white" light that emanates out of Iggy's head. It is a transition section where it is changing angle ever so slightly from Section #4 to Section #5.

    Section #5 appears to not change in diameter, but I believe it does slightly. It is a very short vertical section.

    Section #6 increases diameter rapidly, but is a little bit shorter than Section #2, and as such does not appear to increase diameter beyond the largest of Section #2.

    Section #7 contains most all the "greeblies" and red lights. A Longer section that does not increase diameter.

    Section #8 rapidly decreases diameter as it approaches the top of the head.

    Section #9 is separated by a visible divet with some holes in it.

    Section #10 proceeds from Section #9 narrowing towards the top of the head. It is separated by a change in the decrease of diameter towards the tip. The tip is not uniformly round in height, and from someone with a Derwent Flame tube, they said that is accurate, and that the tip concaves inward into itself.

    Specifics for Each Section:

    Section #1. Shall be relatively straight in diameter, and must fit within the rest of the head.

    Section #2: Must have 4 large diameter holes equally spaced apart around its circumference, and must increase in diameter from bottom to top.

    Section #3: Must not have any holes, and continue increasing in diameter roughly the same as Section #1.

    Section #4: Must transition Section #3 with a round edge, and must decrease the diameter of the flame tube. It should have many holes in it only visible from above the line of sight of the Section #3. Roughly 20-40 holes must be in this section. It must also house the "binos"

    Section #5: Should be mostly vertical with no hole in it.

    Section #6: Should increase in diameter from Section #5 to Section #7 with no holes in it.

    Section #7: Should be slightly larger in diameter than Section #3's largest diameter. It Should have 2 large holes for Red "eyes", 9 smaller holes for red lights, 5 small "greeblies", and 1 "scoped lens". Along with about 14 alternating slits near the top of Section #7, alternating with 14 other slits right above the first 14.

    Section #8: Should have a "dome" transition from Section #7 to Section #9, and it shall have no holes it it.

    Section #9: Shall start with a small "divet" as the transition from Section #8. There may or may not be a couple slits in the transition.

    Section #10: Shall not be uniform in height and shall indent on top.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 11, 2015
  17. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Haven't posted in a while, I have been playing around with reducing sizes where I could, none of it really panned out.

    So, I will work on the Second portion of the "CRL", the Upper Torso. Despite being a robot, IG88 has the same skeletal figure as a human.


    He has a Head with possibly "eyes".
    He has a small neck section.
    He has an upper torso with shoulders and a chest region.
    His upper torso tapers into his midsection / abdominal region.
    His midsection goes into his hips / groin region.
    He has legs with thicker thighs than shins.
    He has arms with biceps, elbows, forearms, and "hands".

    I will focus on the Upper Torso region here.


    It is fairly easy to describe his upper torso as it can be seen as symmetrical. I have yet to find out what the original builders made his chest from.

    Section #1: His shoulder sockets. They are the end of his torso, domed at the end with a small cylindrical inset. They extend uniformly around the socket to the rest of the chest.

    Section #2: His shoulder air pockets. They have a rectangular inset into the shoulder.

    Section #3: His shoulder "pads". They are assumed to make a "U" shape around his neck with some obvious bulges.

    Section #4: His "neck opening". It is assumed to be short and cylindrical.

    Section #5: His chest "wheel". This is a detail that is often mis-drawn on models and images of him. It is not quite a wheel like most depict it to be because the edges concave inward at the top near his "neck opening". It is assumed that this feature is replicated on his back.

    Section #6: "Ball hinge?". Not sure what to call this. Looks like a ball hinge that was melted into a ball of goop, possible via welding.

    Section #7: The bottom of the upper chest. It can be seen that the upper torso looks like a complete separate piece when looking at this section. His upper torso in general is like a "taco" in that it wraps around his shoulders, but is uniformly cut horizontally at the bottom. right below the "ball hinge" it appears to indent towards his body.

    Specifics for Each Section:

    Section #1: Should be domed at the end, with no opening to allow the arm to be brought on the same plane as the body. There should be a short extension away from the rest of the torso and section #2.

    Section #2: should have a couple (2-4) rectangular holes in it, preferably with protection underneath the holes.

    Section #3: Should make a "U" shape around the neckpiece and extend down the chest a few inches. Preferably it should have bulges consistent with the picture.

    Section #4: Should be cylindrical with a greater diameter than the neck, and extend a couple inches into the torso.

    Section #5: Should bulge out from the chest in a round formation, and should have a black mesh material on its right side and hoses into its left side from the front canisters.

    Section #6: The "Ball hinge" should look similar to the one here.

    Section #7: Should look horizontally parallel to the ground.
  18. Bespelov

    Bespelov New Member

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    Way too cool!!!
  19. Stormy320

    Stormy320 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I think I saw you at Celebration. Nice work.
  20. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Haven't posted in a while, I have been playing around with arm proportions, but nothing really changed.

    So, I will work on the Third portion of the "CRL", the Midsection.




    His midsection is a little difficult to describe because it is cover by a lot of his "canisters", bandoleer, and hoses.

    Section #1: The base layer of his midsection is an elliptical cylinder with hoses attached at various locations.

    Front Canisters: He has two sets of front canisters that seem to be the same set of canisters on his left front and right front of his midsection.

    Side Canisters: He has two large canisters on each side of him just behind his arms.

    Rear Canisters: It is assumed that two canisters are connected together the size of his side canisters in the middle of his midsection back.

    Chest Spike: There is a small spike extending a short distance outside the top middle of his midsection.

    Specifics for Each Section:

    Section #1: Should be relatively flat in the front and the back, and curved on the sides.

    Front Canisters: Should be two on each side of the midsection. The canisters should be cylindrical with slightly larger diameter caps at the top and bottom. They should be almost bonded together in the middle of the two canisters by their "through bushings". The left canister of the pair of canisters should have four bushings on its left side grouped with two near the top, one in the middle, and one near the bottom. Those bushings should extend through the canister into the right canister, and should further extend out of the right side of the canister (with the exception of the middle bushing). The top of the canisters should have small nipples at their top cap, and the left pair of canisters should have hoses attached to them. The bottom should have two piston rods extending out and attaching to a single piece.

    Side Canisters: Should be visibly larger than the front canisters. There should be one on each side just behind the plane of the arms.

    Chest Spike: Should be visible from the front and should not extend past the bandoleer.

    Hoses: Should be close to the ESB picture shown in this post.
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  21. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Here is the Fourth portion of the "CRL", the Hips.




    His Hips are a little difficult to describe because they have a lot of unidentifiable attachments. It is a elliptical cylinder that is of greater diameter than the midsection, but similar shape. I have broken them down into pieces.

    Piece #1: Is to the right top of the center of the hips. It is a rounded cube attachment.

    Piece #2: Is the center piece, thin elongated strip, running down almost the entire hip region.

    Piece #3: The "doughnut" looking piece to the upper left of the center. It has a cylinder running through the middle of the "doughnut".

    Piece #4: Just below piece #1, looking like a rounded cube with a section missing near the bottom, and a bushing near the missing section.

    Piece #5: Just below piece #4, looking like a rounded rectangular cube, flatter than piece #4.

    Piece #6: Just below piece #3, looking like a rounded cube, with a rectangular bulge running down the hypotenuse of the cube.

    Piece #7: Just below piece #2, looking like a semi-circle, tapering off near the bottom of it. The top of piece #7 has two side by side "greeblies".

    Piece #8: Rounded cubes at the top of the hips section on the four corners of where the hips start to curve.

    Piece #9: The rounded "ball hinges" attached to the front canisters.

    Piece #10: Rounded "doughnut" rivets running down piece #2.

    Piece #11: Bushing at the corner of piece #4.

    Piece #12: describes the raised slats that run up from the top of the thighs to mid-way up the hips.

    Piece #13: The side by side "greeblies" that are at the top of piece #7.

    Specifics for Each Section:

    The hips should be slightly larger in diameter than the midsection. It should also be slightly longer than the midsection.

    Piece #1: Should extend from the top of the hips section and go down to the just below the front canister's "ball hinge" end. And not be wide enough to touch piece #9.

    Piece #2: Should start slightly below the top of the hips and travel vertically down to near the bottom of the hips. It should be a flat strip (with the exception of the "doughnut rivets" with curved ends.

    Piece #3: Should have a "doughnut" appearance and should have a cylindrical piece extending from the middle of it. It should start just below piece #1 on the other side of the center strip.

    Piece #4: Should start directly below piece #1. It should extend (width-wise) past piece #1, and pop out further than piece #1. It should have Piece #11 on top of it.

    Piece #5: Should start directly below piece #4. It should have similar length to piece #1, similar depth to piece #1, and should be slightly wider than piece #1.

    Piece #6: Should start directly below piece #3. It should be roughly the size of a cube with a rectangular piece on top of it running along the cube's hypotenuse.

    Piece #7: Should appear directly below the center strip. It should be semi-circular, and taper down in depth as it goes down vertically. Piece #13 should be at the top of this piece.

    Piece #8: There should be four of these cubes at the four corners at the top of the hips.

    Piece #9: Should appear as a half-sphere with a nipple in the middle of it, and attaching to the "piston rods" of the front canisters.

    Piece #10: There should be three "doughnut" rivets on each side of the center strip.

    Piece #11: Should be open cylindrical, be at the bottom right hand corner of the front of piece #4.

    Piece #12: Should have about four strips running vertically up the hips from the thighs on each side of the hips. The vertical strip should taper off and disappear near the middle of the hips. There should be a horizontal strip that is just slightly above the thighs and goes around the bottom of the hips, framing the top of the thighs.

    Piece #13: Should have rectangular bases that extend about the same distance as the cylindrical bushings at the end of the piece.

    The back of the hips are not shown from any pictures, but it is assumed that it is similar to the front of IG88.
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
  22. Stormy320

    Stormy320 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So you are staring a build?
  23. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Here is the Fifth portion of the "CRL", the Legs.


    View attachment 588974

    His Legs are also a little difficult to describe because they have a lot of hoses in and around them, the feet are not visible, and a lot of the shapes are not standard . The legs appear to be two different sized pipes, one for the thighs and one for the calves.

    Piece #1: The round lip that separates the hips from the legs.

    Piece #2: The shroud for the thighs.

    Piece #3: The knee to hip "stabilizers".

    Piece #4: The thigh. Seemingly a single piece of pipe.

    Piece #5: An attachment to the thigh. Resembles a cross.

    Piece #6: The knee. Slightly larger than the thigh with a knee cap attached to it.

    Piece #7: A cylindrical attachment to the right shin.

    Piece #8: A fork attachment to the left shin.

    Specifics for Each Section:

    Piece #1: Should extend from the bottom of the hips section, and should be separate from the legs. They should be slightly separated in between the legs. It is comprised of a small lip with a slightly longer section below it framing the legs.

    Piece #2: There should be one shroud per thigh. The shape should be relatively curved and extend almost the way down to the knee.

    Piece #3: There should be one on each side of each thigh. The outside ones should be a single bar that runs up, while the inside one has a distinctive piece in the middle of the bar. That distinctive piece should appear like two cylinders separated by a smaller diameter sphere / cylinder.

    Piece #4: The thigh should be a single piece of pipe. The diameter should not change until it meets the knee.

    Piece #5: The cross attachment to the thigh should look as presented in the picture. It should be attached to the thigh on each side in the front.

    Piece #6: The kneecap and the knee. The knee should be larger diameter than the thigh, and be connected to the #3 pieces. The front of the knee should have a kneecap attached to it. The kneecap is a long rectangular piece that extends towards the shin.

    Piece #7: This piece is a short cylinder with an attachment on the top for a hose and the bottom should have three small spheres attached.

    Piece #8: Should be a "Y" fork with longer cylinders at the bottom. the top should be the single end with a hose attachment.

    The feet are not shown, but most visualizations of them are a square bottom with the height resembling a trapezoid. Feet are necessary, but the exactly shape and size is not set in stone per the ESB pictures.
  24. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Here is the Sixth portion of the "CRL", the Arms.


    View attachment 588979

    View attachment 588980

    His Arms are sometimes difficult because of remember the difference between the left and right arms. Both arms are identical from the elbow up, but the elbow down, they are slightly different.

    Piece #1: The "ball joint" is a spherical type component with bulging slats in the middle.

    Piece #2: The upper bicep is a cylindrical feature with bolts at the top, and a strip down the middle.

    Piece #3: The lower bicep is just a simple cylinder.

    Piece #4: The elbow is a piece of what looks like the "ball joint" at each of its end, and a collapsible rubber gasket in between.

    Piece #5: The forearm is a simple cylinder with some attachments on each arm.

    Piece #6: A domed attachment behind the separation of the upper and lower bicep. It has a cylinder coming out of it resembling a telescope.

    Piece #7: A "hose-like" attachment on the top of the forearm for the right arm.

    Piece #8: A rounded claw at the bottom of the right forearm. Looking like it was meant to support a blaster.

    Piece #9: The right claw. Has a figure 8 type pattern to it.

    Piece #10: The left forearm attachment. Is a curved piece of metal atop the left forearm.

    Piece #11: The left claw. Looks like "C" claws.

    Specifics for Each Section:

    Piece #1: Should be about as large as the socket for the arm. Should resemble a sphere with 4 to 5 rounded discs coming out the middle.

    Piece #2: Should have at the top a wider pressed disc with "nuts" around the rim. That will transition into the cylinder of the biceps. There should be a thin strip going down the center of the front and rear of the bicep. The middle of that strip should have a square bulge with a bushing coming out of it.

    Piece #3: Should be of smaller diameter than piece #2. It should also have a smaller diameter coming out of it to the elbow.

    Piece #4: The elbow should be bendable, and should resemble rubber.

    Piece #5: The forearm should be a cylinder with a constant diameter until it reaches the end "hand".

    Piece #6: Should be affixed between the upper bicep and lower bicep. It should have a raised dome feature with a small nipple at the top. There should be another cylinder coming out of the dome at roughly a 45 degree angle pointing towards the ground.

    Piece #7: Should be mounted on top of the right forearm. Should be a cylinder with bar attachments on each side binding it to the forearm. A smaller diameter "hose-like" should come out of it, dip down close to the forearm, and end at the wrist.

    Piece #8: Should be mounted to the bottom of the right forearm. It should resemble a "C" with the end of the claw having a smaller "C" claw.

    Piece #9: The right hand claws should resemble a number eight. They should be separable. The base of the "8" should be larger in diameter than the top.

    Piece #10: Should be mounted to the top of the left forearm. It resembles a wave. The end of the wave should be attached near the wrist, Two small stanchions should keep the other end of the wave affixed to the forearm.

    Piece #11: The left claws should be curved so that each individual claw looks like a "C".
  25. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Hey Stormy320, I already finished the build. Just trying to get my application heard by the 501st.

    Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  26. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    With the Disney takeover, it is difficult to find IG88 images that are canon. I'm hoping there will be more soon.

    Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
  27. Stormy320

    Stormy320 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    What do you mean? There are only just a handful of photographs of the original prop.
  28. reddetnesahc

    reddetnesahc New Member

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    Yes, there are only a handful of the original. But with new TV shows, games, and movies, hopefully there will be a reappearance.

    Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

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