"I see you have constructed a new lightsaber..."

[Nexus6]

I bought this V2 blank (with Graflex clamp) from 'jd pilot' almost 3 years ago. I've held onto it all this time, finding/saving every picture of the V2 that I could find (both replica & screencap), & also trying to improve my painting/weathering skills. I was waiting to see pix of MR's V2, & setting that as my "go-time" for this piece.



So a week ago, I shot it with some paint (Krylon Semi-flat Black 1613, no primer), & then removed the paint that I thought would bring it to "pristine" (or AFBB) condition:



Then I took all of my visual references, & drew up some "maps" for my weathering that covered every angle. The weathering process took about 3 hours, using just my thumbnails to remove unwanted paint. At this phase I added the D-ring & the "fillister head" screw (which is NOT a fillister head screw, but just a screw that I modified to get the right look. I also decided to replace the Blast-Tech circuit board (see AFBB pix above) with an actual vintage board that I found a couple of years ago (again, this one differs from the one that is accepted as screen-accurate, but I think that one is ugly ):



I doubt that my V2's measurements are exactly "screen-accurate", but I'm not concerned with them. There just doesn't seem to be enough available photographic reference on the V2 Hero (that I've been privy to, anyway) for anyone to have an exact screen-accurate replica of this piece. And besides, I just like fan-made lightsabers (all of mine are), they don't seem as "cookie-cutter" as the licensed ones (no offense to MR). And finally, I couldn't resist a comparison shot:



Thanks for looking. :thumbsup

 

[Gman666]

I bought this V2 blank (with Graflex clamp) from 'jd pilot' almost 3 years ago. I've held onto it all this time, finding/saving every picture of the V2 that I could find (both replica & screencap), & also trying to improve my painting/weathering skills. I was waiting to see pix of MR's V2, & setting that as my "go-time" for this piece.



So a week ago, I shot it with some paint (Krylon Semi-flat Black 1613, no primer), & then removed the paint that I thought would bring it to "pristine" (or AFBB) condition:



Then I took all of my visual references, & drew up some "maps" for my weathering that covered every angle. The weathering process took about 3 hours, using just my thumbnails to remove unwanted paint. At this phase I added the D-ring & the "fillister head" screw (which is NOT a fillister head screw, but just a screw that I modified to get the right look. I also decided to replace the Blast-Tech circuit board (see AFBB pix above) with an actual vintage board that I found a couple of years ago (again, this one differs from the one that is accepted as screen-accurate, but I think that one is ugly ):



I doubt that my V2's measurements are exactly "screen-accurate", but I'm not concerned with them. There just doesn't seem to be enough available photographic reference on the V2 Hero (that I've been privy to, anyway) for anyone to have an exact screen-accurate replica of this piece. And besides, I just like fan-made lightsabers (all of mine are), they don't seem as "cookie-cutter" as the licensed ones (no offense to MR). And finally, I couldn't resist a comparison shot:



Thanks for looking. :thumbsup

Looks great! Makes me sad as I had to sell my kick a$$ V2 last year.:cry One question as the verdict goes back and forth all the time. Is the cone knob knurled? I thought we agreed to yes but the MR is smooth. I am trying to get my old Parks Arc-wave turned into a LED.

I will be using your weathering tips as it is one of the best I have seen!

Thanks!

Greg

Hope I did not derail

 

[Nexus6]

One question as the verdict goes back and forth all the time. Is the cone knob knurled? I thought we agreed to yes but the MR is smooth. I will be using your weathering tips as it is one of the best I have seen!

Thanks!

Greg

Mine is NOT knurled. I've heard much argument in both directions, but mine came with the smooth knob, so I just left it that way.

 

[lesternessman]

Great saber! I think you did a fantastic job on the weathering.

 

[lonepigeon]

The circuit board you have is actually screen-accurate for the V2.
I discovered that the V2 had a real circuit board (Luke ESB style) over a month ago.
You do need to flip it around though. The thinner silver lines should point towards the clamp lever.

 

[Nexus6]

The circuit board you have is actually screen-accurate for the V2.
I discovered that the V2 had a real circuit board (Luke ESB style) over a month ago.

Wow, SWEET! If you don't mind me asking, how did you come across that info?

You do need to flip it around though. The thinner silver lines should point towards the clamp lever.

Done. :thumbsup :thumbsup

Thanks for the help!

 

[Tatooine_Todd]

Great saber! You may want to skuff the metal parts a bit more to give less shine.

 

[Nexus6]

Great saber! You may want to skuff the metal parts a bit more to give less shine.

You're probably right, but I'm just gonna call this one DONE. I'm notorious for completely RUINING a project because I wanted to do just one more thing to it. :cry