How to get the "chrome effect" on resin?
- Thread starter M Bison
- Start date
foxbatkllr
Sr Member
Alclad II Chrome works well from what I've heard.
dropshipbob
Master Member
First, you've got to get the surface super smooth, 100%! Even the smallest flaw will show up big time once it gets chromed. And if you have to fill any holes or other imperfections, you have to use something tough like Bondo. Most other "fillers" can't stand up to the chroming process.
I looked into this a few years back, and after talking to the owner of a chroming shop in Cali, I came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth the money. You could go through all the prep work and pay to get it chromed, only to end up with something really ugly.
Now AlClad, there's something I'd try. From what I've seen you get almost the same effect at a fraction of the price. And if you mess it up, you can strip it down and start over.
I looked into this a few years back, and after talking to the owner of a chroming shop in Cali, I came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth the money. You could go through all the prep work and pay to get it chromed, only to end up with something really ugly.
Now AlClad, there's something I'd try. From what I've seen you get almost the same effect at a fraction of the price. And if you mess it up, you can strip it down and start over.
when it comes to chrome paint, mirrachrome by alsa corp is the best, but very pricey....but it is amazing stuff (what all the immortal masks were done in for 300)
the next best thing (for a lot less money) is the alclad II
just make sure the surface is SUPER smooth.........also starting with a BLACK base layer really helps the chrome effect
I usually sand the piece until it is like glass (usually around 400 -600 grit wet sandpaper) then use a nice airbrush (i usually use an iwata micron b or iwata hp-c plus........the finer the spray the better it'll look) and get a nice coat of black paint on there, then once it is totally dry i use 800-1200 grit wet sandpaper on the black paint to get it back to a glass-like finish, but not actually removing the black paint, then airbrush on the alclad
both alclad and mirrachrome are pretty fragile.......so it is recommended to clear coat them, but this will take away some of the chrome luster, so if it is just a display piece i wouldn't worry, but if it is going to be handled or used i would clear coat it.
the next best thing (for a lot less money) is the alclad II
just make sure the surface is SUPER smooth.........also starting with a BLACK base layer really helps the chrome effect
I usually sand the piece until it is like glass (usually around 400 -600 grit wet sandpaper) then use a nice airbrush (i usually use an iwata micron b or iwata hp-c plus........the finer the spray the better it'll look) and get a nice coat of black paint on there, then once it is totally dry i use 800-1200 grit wet sandpaper on the black paint to get it back to a glass-like finish, but not actually removing the black paint, then airbrush on the alclad
both alclad and mirrachrome are pretty fragile.......so it is recommended to clear coat them, but this will take away some of the chrome luster, so if it is just a display piece i wouldn't worry, but if it is going to be handled or used i would clear coat it.
PHArchivist
Master Member
SaberFreak
Sr Member
But don't forget,
There are newbies born,
Every day,
Every hour,
Every minute.
Even right now,
In a hospital near you...
Be patient, be VERY patient...
lollol
Last edited:
CustomCreations
Sr Member
I am soon to 'release' a prop replica kit from an old cult film , it'll be a gloss black vacform to enable the use of these paints. Chrome paint from a can CAN actually be very effective, but its a b~~ch to paint. However, if you leave it untouched for about a week or so it does keep its lustre extremely well. For something like an exo skull, with lots of detail and few smooth areas, it could well be a good way forward.
There no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers.
D
There no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers.
D
Terminator Crazy
Well-Known Member
We did real chrome on ours and it was not that pricey? Alclad sucks compared to it if you ask me. I think it was called phantachrome over there.
I have my hole fullsize C-3PO in goldchrome as well.
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SWFreak
Sr Member
There's also the Alsa Corp MIRRACHROME .
Smiling Demon
Sr Member
But don't forget,
There are newbies born,
Every day,
Every hour,
Every minute.
Even right now,
In a hospital near you...
Be patient, be VERY patient...
Rob be patient, you have got to be joking, right?:lol
dropshipbob
Master Member
True, in comparison to getting it chromed, AlClad does suck. Expensive? When I looked into getting a Terminator endoskull chromed, I think it was going to be around $150-200. And they guy told me there were no guarantees that it would come out looking right.
But that was just my experience, and I only spoke to one place. He may have been making it sound worse than it would really be just to keep from having to mess with one small item from "some guy".
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