<div class='quotetop'>(RedTwoX @ Jun 2 2006, 03:58 PM) [snapback]1255081[/snapback]</div>
I'm not sure how much you can control tha amount of shrinkage in a mold. I would simply place the master on a photocopier, hit the reduce button a couple of times, and use the reduced photocopy as a templatte to make a new piece. This allows you total control over the scaling.
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Or take a picture of it and pull it up in Photoshop or Illustrator, both of which have graduated scales. I'm usually scaling up, but it works the same both ways.
You can also cross multiply and divide:
Say you've got a 4" action figure with a 1" blaster, and you're wondering how big the blaster would be in "real life".
You set the "real life" size for the action figure (we'll say 6 feet tall, for example), and then you go to work:
4" 1"
--*--
6' X
You cross multiply and divide to solve for "X" (the "real life" size of the blaster). 6x1=6 / 4 = 1.5 (feet) or 18"
You can also convert everything to inches first to make it easier:
4" 1"
-- * --
72" X
72x1=72 / 4 = 18" (same result as before)
So your 4" action figure with a 1" blaster would be 6' tall with a 18" blaster in "real life".
This also works for scaling DOWN:
Say you're making a replica action figure of yourself, and you're 6' tall in real life and want to be a 4" tall action figure. Your real life blaster is 18" long, and you need to know how big to make the miniature version:
6' 18"
--*--
4" X
4x18=72 / 6 = 1 So your answer is 1" (same value as in the first example, we just reversed the process to solve for it).
It's all about ratios. Now aren't you glad that I paid attention in math class in high school that day 15 + years ago?? :lol
Enjoy.
J