Help with scratch removal from cockpit canopy

[Jimmer]

A buddy of mine who does not model build at all loved my Revell TIE and X-Wing and asked if I'd assemble and paint his for him, which I am happy to do.

He purchased the kits and dropped them off today and upon opening I discovered that the X-wing canopy has a few light scratches on one side. Odd, as it was sealed individually in plastic bag. Anyway, does anyone know a way to remove or lighten the scratches?

Sorry to bug you guys here, I'm sure I could find online/youtube info, but being that it's a friend's kit I'd feel much better getting advice from the wizards here.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Teddz]

I've removed scratches from canopies before using 2 polishing compounds from Tamiya... fine and finish.

 

[craig g]

I've heard toothpaste works too.

- - - Updated - - -

I've heard that toothpaste works too.

 

[Dedalus5550]

This kind of thing is quite standard for those who build modern jets because to get the shape accurate, manufacturers have to put a seem down the middle. This has to be removed in a process that creates "scratches" which then have to be removed. So realize it's a fairly common process with more than just one method. But you can start by sanding with the finest sandpaper you have that is still rough enough to remove the scratch. This means that if the scratch is deep, it will take rougher sandpaper, etc. Sand to make sure you have completely removed the original scratch, while creating finer "scratches". Then use finer and finer sandpaper. In the end, you can use a t-shirt or terry cloth with something on it. Rubbing compound and then polishing compound work great (found at auto supply places in the car wash section--modern jet builders often have this stuff sitting around and you might be able to borrow from one if you know one). I've even used spit or, in colder weather, the moisture in my breath, when I'm feeling lazy. One alternative to all the sandpaper--my current go-to method--is to use a sanding/polishing bar that you can find in most beauty supply stores or beauty supply sections of drug stores. It's a block that is padded and has four sides, and each side is a different fineness of sanding surface. It's used for polishing fingernails and runs about $5. This may be trickier if the canopy has "glass" that is countersunk around a raised frame, but not impossible. The "trifecta" move at the end is to dip it in Future floor polish (now named Pledge with Future or something). In all of this, just be careful about how rough you hold the canopy as you can break it. And if you're at all squeemish, find another spare, old clear part to practice on.
Mike Todd

 

[Jimmer]

Thanks for the info guys.

This kind of thing is quite standard for those who build modern jets because to get the shape accurate, manufacturers have to put a seem down the middle. This has to be removed in a process that creates "scratches" which then have to be removed. So realize it's a fairly common process with more than just one method. But you can start by sanding with the finest sandpaper you have that is still rough enough to remove the scratch. This means that if the scratch is deep, it will take rougher sandpaper, etc. Sand to make sure you have completely removed the original scratch, while creating finer "scratches". Then use finer and finer sandpaper. In the end, you can use a t-shirt or terry cloth with something on it. Rubbing compound and then polishing compound work great (found at auto supply places in the car wash section--modern jet builders often have this stuff sitting around and you might be able to borrow from one if you know one). I've even used spit or, in colder weather, the moisture in my breath, when I'm feeling lazy. One alternative to all the sandpaper--my current go-to method--is to use a sanding/polishing bar that you can find in most beauty supply stores or beauty supply sections of drug stores. It's a block that is padded and has four sides, and each side is a different fineness of sanding surface. It's used for polishing fingernails and runs about $5. This may be trickier if the canopy has "glass" that is countersunk around a raised frame, but not impossible. The "trifecta" move at the end is to dip it in Future floor polish (now named Pledge with Future or something). In all of this, just be careful about how rough you hold the canopy as you can break it. And if you're at all squeemish, find another spare, old clear part to practice on.
Mike Todd

Thanks, Mike. Really helpful and makes sense. I have rubbing compound and sandpaper to as fine as 2000 grit (used that one to remove some rust from a sword) so I'll go to work on it. And I'll practice on some junk fodder first - excellent advice.

Thanks again.

 

[Rogviler]

The cheapest/easiest is probably to use a fingernail polishing stick/block. It has different grits on it (they're even numbered in sequence). Use that and then a final dip in Future floor polish (or whatever it's being labeled as these days).

-Rog

 

[Jimmer]

The cheapest/easiest is probably to use a fingernail polishing stick/block. It has different grits on it (they're even numbered in sequence). Use that and then a final dip in Future floor polish (or whatever it's being labeled as these days).

-Rog

Thanks Rog

 

[PHArchivist]

Depending on how fine the scratch is and how perfect you need it, just a single dip in Future (without sanding/polishing) may do the trick. Maybe...

 

[Jimmer]

Depending on how fine the scratch is and how perfect you need it, just a single dip in Future (without sanding/polishing) may do the trick. Maybe...

Thanks PHA.

Scratch is very fine, to the point that I'd let it slide as "wear and tear" but I'm building kits for a buddy so figured I'd clean 'em up as best as I can. And I am enjoying this hobby so I like learning new techniques - even the little ones.

Also, several of you guys have mentioned these fingernail sticks so I'll give those a look. I grabbed a bag of various grit swizzle stick sanders at local hobby shop and I am getting the impression those will work, although I probably paid twice what the nail sanders go for...lol.

 

[Dedalus5550]

Depending on how fine the scratch is and how perfect you need it, just a single dip in Future (without sanding/polishing) may do the trick. Maybe...

To add to this, in case the OP doesn't know this. If you try the simple Future dip with nothing else and it doesn't work, Future is super easy to remove so you can start over. Just use window cleaner with ammonia (Windex is perfect). The Future will come right off and you're back to square one with no fuss.

 

[Jimmer]

To add to this, in case the OP doesn't know this. If you try the simple Future dip with nothing else and it doesn't work, Future is super easy to remove so you can start over. Just use window cleaner with ammonia (Windex is perfect). The Future will come right off and you're back to square one with no fuss.

That's really good to know, thanks Dedalus. I held off tackling the canopy yesterday to take in all the info.

I love this site, always know where to come when my limited modeling experience halts a project.

Thanks, guys.

 

[rbeach84]

Jimmer, most have hit the major 'tips'. The "Future" dip is probably the best bet if the scratches are fine, but even if you have to sand, a dip is still indicated as a final finish. A couple of clarifications I noticed. One, 'Future' is now 'Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish' but still the same super clear, self-leveling acrylic liquid we all love. Second, the salon nail sanding 'sticks' are the kind with four different polishing surfaces on 'em, with the final grit being essentially a smoothing surface that looks like leather... You may be able to start the sanding using a ScotchBrite type cleaning pad (preferably a bit worn) which will give an even, dull finish to the part which you can then start polishing back out using the finer and finer grit method previously described. Although many modelers like using polishing compounds, you must use something that is made for plastics as some (like Brasso) have chemicals that can damage the part. And wash it once the polishing is done.

Dipping with Future involves pouring a bit into a small bowl deep enough to cover your part completely. Holding the piece with tweezers on a spot that will be painted (like a 'frame'), you carefully dip it completely in the finish, making sure to avoid generating bubbles. Then slowly remove the part & touch an edge to a paper towel to take up any immediate excess, then place it on a piece of clean printer paper to dry and cover with a preferably clear plastic bowl (again, clean & lint free) that is propped up on one side about 5 mm or so to let it "breath" (a ring of toothpicks as shims works too.) Then let it cure overnight undisturbed away from HVAC vents, fans, cats, rug-rats and such. This should result in a lint free, crystal clear part. Plus, if you have hairy companions (or pets), perhaps a quick vacuum before doing the dipping helps you be successful too.

Hope this helps!

Regards, Robert

 

[INVAR]

Do the dip. Immerse the whole part in a small container of this, then Let it dry on a paper towel and return the leftover Pledge into the bottle. Has magically smoothed out small scratches in several canopies I had issues with. Easy cleanup too. Windex with ammonia dissolves this liquid plastic so if you have to start over or thin the product, glass cleaner with ammonia does the trick.

I use this stuff as a decal setter and to clear coat my models after painting. I run it full strength through my airbrush and about three coats allowed to dry gives the model and unreal shine. If I need to dull it down, I just spray dullcote over the model after it is sealed in Finish. Then I spritz Windex in my airbrush cup and clean it out by spraying windex through it.

Easy peasy.

 

[Jimmer]

Jimmer, most have hit the major 'tips'. The "Future" dip is probably the best bet if the scratches are fine, but even if you have to sand, a dip is still indicated as a final finish. A couple of clarifications I noticed. One, 'Future' is now 'Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish' but still the same super clear, self-leveling acrylic liquid we all love. Second, the salon nail sanding 'sticks' are the kind with four different polishing surfaces on 'em, with the final grit being essentially a smoothing surface that looks like leather... You may be able to start the sanding using a ScotchBrite type cleaning pad (preferably a bit worn) which will give an even, dull finish to the part which you can then start polishing back out using the finer and finer grit method previously described. Although many modelers like using polishing compounds, you must use something that is made for plastics as some (like Brasso) have chemicals that can damage the part. And wash it once the polishing is done.

Dipping with Future involves pouring a bit into a small bowl deep enough to cover your part completely. Holding the piece with tweezers on a spot that will be painted (like a 'frame'), you carefully dip it completely in the finish, making sure to avoid generating bubbles. Then slowly remove the part & touch an edge to a paper towel to take up any immediate excess, then place it on a piece of clean printer paper to dry and cover with a preferably clear plastic bowl (again, clean & lint free) that is propped up on one side about 5 mm or so to let it "breath" (a ring of toothpicks as shims works too.) Then let it cure overnight undisturbed away from HVAC vents, fans, cats, rug-rats and such. This should result in a lint free, crystal clear part. Plus, if you have hairy companions (or pets), perhaps a quick vacuum before doing the dipping helps you be successful too.

Hope this helps!

Regards, Robert

Very helpful, thanks Robert - as always, you are the man.

INVAR, thanks for the input as well. I've lined up a few junkers to practice on. Even gonna give this a try on one of my beat up Hot Wheels from my childhood. Hopefully be able to bring a little life into those 70's die cast hot rods...lol.