Heiland Syncronar to Vader? I need some guidance!

[PaleHaunt]

Browsing eBay last week, I picked up a vintage Heiland Syncronar 3-cell with the intent of creating an ESB version of Vaders hilt.

I’ve build sabers from kits, and even installed a few, but this has some issues for me that are new, and I figured the best thing to so was do was ask the experts here.

I’d ideally like to build this out with as much vintage parts as possible. I already have a replica of the emitter section, or the MPP shroud from Romans Props. I can easily buy the pommel cap, the clamp, and all the other parts, but I guess I’m looking for anyone who has parts they are willing to part with.

But I think my biggest issue is, did I mess up getting a 3 cell? Was Vader’s only a 2 cell flash? This feels just a bit to long, and if it is, is there a way to cut the bottom, and a way to thread this, or attach the pommel?



Anyway, I’m looking for all the words of wisdom, help, and sales you guys can help me with.

 

[v312]

3cell is the right one. Vader is pretty tall guy you know ...

 

[AnubisGuard]

Yup, the 3-cell is correct. From what you have there, you're going to need:

• Replacement coin-edged end cap
• MPP style bulb release
• MPP clamp

Plus the assorted t-track, d-ring, etc hardware.

Of the above, the end cap is the most feasible to get a real vintage part; Heiland made a coin edged cap that's a fairly good fascimile of the MPP, only it's stamped with a Heiland logo on the bottom instead of the 1/4-20 threaded hot shoe mount. The bulb release and clamp will most likely need to be replicas, unless you're willing to spend a lot of cash.

Sometimes you can still pick up vintage t-track; a few people found rolls of some fairly close stuff years back and every now and then strips cut from them pop up for sale.

 

[saberguy2]

I've built three Vader sabers from Synchronars and it was only on my third that I realised that the large band on the end cap was actually removeable (with a little effort!) which exposed the chromed thread underneath. This makes the end cap much more realistic. OK, so you have the wrong shape but it still has the threaded base very similar to the MPP and nice and flat for the grips. On this one I decided to enlarge the pommel thread from a 1/4" original to the correct 3/8" thread as a test. You have such a lovely condition Heiland - it'll make a superb saber. Overall this saber cost me about £100.

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

I've built three Vader sabers from Synchronars and it was only on my third that I realised that the large band on the end cap was actually removeable (with a little effort!) which exposed the chromed thread underneath. This makes the end cap much more realistic.

You, sir, are a genius. How did none of us figure this out back in 2002 when we were all building Vader sabers out of Heilands?

 

[BlandoCalrssian]

Romans MPP end cap also threads perfectly onto a Synchronar

 

[saberguy2]

You, sir, are a genius. How did none of us figure this out back in 2002 when we were all building Vader sabers out of Heilands?

If I was a genius, I'd have worked it out on the first one!

 

[danvader]

I realised that the large band on the end cap was actually removeable (with a little effort!) which exposed the chromed thread underneath

Saberguy2, how did you remove the large band on the end cap ?

 

[saberguy2]

Saberguy2, how did you remove the large band on the end cap ?

Aah, it was a very technical process of wiggling it, giving up on that when it only moved a tiny bit (but still worth trying) and then using a dremel and cutting disc to slice through it very carefully. If you can work out where the t-track is going to end up, it doesn't matter if you mark the thread with the dremel a bit. Hope this helps!