Hasbro U-Wing modification
- Thread starter Analyzer
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Analyzer
Master Member
Yes please, I would love copies! I have been thinking about picking up the Elegoo Mars
I would highly recommend the elegoo Mars, or I imagine their new one the Saturn is as good but with a bigger print bed. The rear bulkhead only
just fit on the mars’ print bed.
I thought the learning curve would be steep for any 3D printer but these ones are almost plug and play. Really impressive.
just fit on the mars’ print bed.
I thought the learning curve would be steep for any 3D printer but these ones are almost plug and play. Really impressive.
I've been mainly working on cutting bits out of the engine pods for LEDs and wiring, so no interesting pictures for today. The only way I could get the wires through into the main body was to drill through the part where the swing wings go - technically the wires will be visible, but I don't think they'll be very noticeable.
I did take some more screenshots from Battlefront 2 though, which just means I have more greeblies to make.
I gave the rear bulkhead a coat of primer and I think it looks pretty good:
I've uploaded the STL files to thingiverse in case anyone else wants to use them. I'll add more as I go along. I'm definitely going to have a go at designing some more accurate landing gear, although I may have to make the main struts from brass tube so they're strong enough.
I did take some more screenshots from Battlefront 2 though, which just means I have more greeblies to make.
I gave the rear bulkhead a coat of primer and I think it looks pretty good:
I've uploaded the STL files to thingiverse in case anyone else wants to use them. I'll add more as I go along. I'm definitely going to have a go at designing some more accurate landing gear, although I may have to make the main struts from brass tube so they're strong enough.
Laspector
Master Member
I always enjoy these toy mods. That's mostly what I do. I've always enjoyed the toys as they are more sturdy than models (and bigger). As far as ships, I'm basically an OT guy, but if I ever did any ships from the other movies, this would probably be the one. I really like this ship.
You are doing a great job. I can't wait to see the final product.
You are doing a great job. I can't wait to see the final product.
Thanks! I love toy mods too. I’ve done the Hasbro millennium falcon and Slave 1 as well, both heavily modified with lighting and sounds etc. I’m basically a sucker for anything that is roughly 1/48 scale, and since the model manufacturers aren’t keen on making huge models then modding these toys is the way to go.
Original trilogy is definitely my preference too, but I did love Rogue One, and I’m running out of OT models to build. I’ve actually got a Hasbro Tie Striker and Kylo Ren’s ship which I plan to mod at some point.
And thebeans is doing an awesome job of a prequel trilogy Jedi star fighter toy, so I just know I’m going to end up buying one of those when I can find one on eBay or wherever!
For mine, which I haven’t had time to start yet, I had planned on some simple mods and making more accurate wings. However, watching all this amazing work you are doing, I may have to try some of these more complicated Mods Myself. Very inspiring work!
Well if it helps I have put all the 3D models I’ve made onto thingiverse:
www.thingiverse.com
Hazbru Star Wars U-wing parts by Blergh120
Various bits and pieces to add detail to the Hasbro U-wing toy. These are for non-commercial purposes and are not endorsed by Lucasfilm, Disney etc. The landing gear are designed so that a brass rod or tube is inserted down the middle, and another at about 45 degrees into the top greeblie, as I...
www.thingiverse.com
I made the mistake of buying the Rogue One visual guide, and now I have to make even more modifications to my project! I didn't realise that there are cut-outs in the sides of the hull which are visible when the wings are open (the book calls them "wing catch brackets"), so I've had to get the razor saw back out to replicate those. Plus I found this awesome picture of the cockpit controls:
The side panels are actually pretty close to what I designed, so I'll likely leave them as is. The question is, can I model that hugely complex looking control yoke/screen thingy for the pilots? I'll give it a go.
I also found this picture which has a cool colour scheme that has more blue than the ones I've seen before, so I'll probably use that as inspiration when I finally get round to painting this.
In terms of build progress, I've just been doing tidying up (I finally finished the radiator fins) so nothing interesting enough to take pictures of.
The side panels are actually pretty close to what I designed, so I'll likely leave them as is. The question is, can I model that hugely complex looking control yoke/screen thingy for the pilots? I'll give it a go.
I also found this picture which has a cool colour scheme that has more blue than the ones I've seen before, so I'll probably use that as inspiration when I finally get round to painting this.
In terms of build progress, I've just been doing tidying up (I finally finished the radiator fins) so nothing interesting enough to take pictures of.
So I printed out the first draft of the control yoke - it went pretty well. Considering the whole thing is about 7mm across, the detail is pretty good. I’m going to use guitar string and wires to replicate all the pipes, wires etc, as I don’t have the skill to model them in 3D.
I would say the detail on the print is probably slightly below the quality of a Bandai kit, but definitely good enough for me. The photo below makes it look a bit worse than it is
I’ll need to make some adjustments so the controls are at the right height for the pilots, but I think this looks pretty close for a first draft. When I have a final version I’ll put the file up on thingiverse.
I would say the detail on the print is probably slightly below the quality of a Bandai kit, but definitely good enough for me. The photo below makes it look a bit worse than it is
I’ll need to make some adjustments so the controls are at the right height for the pilots, but I think this looks pretty close for a first draft. When I have a final version I’ll put the file up on thingiverse.
Analyzer
Master Member
Those are great reference pics!
I was thinking about picking up that guide, I briefly thumbed through it at a bookstore and I remember one really cool page that had a size comparison of the different vehicles, It was really useful for scaling the AT-ACT for example
As far as the control yoke I think it looks great
I was thinking about picking up that guide, I briefly thumbed through it at a bookstore and I remember one really cool page that had a size comparison of the different vehicles, It was really useful for scaling the AT-ACT for example
As far as the control yoke I think it looks great
Small update - I have done some painting of bits. Painting is not my strong suit, but I think it looks OK for the scale. Photos always make the paint and finish look awful as you can zoom right in and see all the awfulness.
Hopefully when its backlit the screens and buttons etc will show up a bit better. The 3 x 2 slots on each side near the bottom are just backed with .5mm styrene which shows the light quite well.
I really wanted to backlight the screens on the control yoke screens but I couldn't find an angle that would actually let you see them when the model is all put together so I didn't bother. I haven't weathered the pilots yet, so that will hopefully soften the slightly low-polygon models. I did use Mr Surfacer 1200 on them before painting but it hasn't worked amazingly.
Hopefully when its backlit the screens and buttons etc will show up a bit better. The 3 x 2 slots on each side near the bottom are just backed with .5mm styrene which shows the light quite well.
I really wanted to backlight the screens on the control yoke screens but I couldn't find an angle that would actually let you see them when the model is all put together so I didn't bother. I haven't weathered the pilots yet, so that will hopefully soften the slightly low-polygon models. I did use Mr Surfacer 1200 on them before painting but it hasn't worked amazingly.
Analyzer
Master Member
It's akin to hearing your voice on a recording
I always get overcritical when I see pictures of my zoomed in work.
I finally got round to doing some of the electronics. Fitted two 3mm flickering blue LEDs in each engine and sealed them up. Routing the wires through the tiny holes I had drilled was less tricky than I expected, especially given that the resistors are already soldered on.
I would have liked to put three LEDs in each engine as it smooths out the “flickering” effect better, but it would have been quite cramped and I wasn’t in the mood for soldering in tight spaces to remove the excess wires.
Given how big the model is it’s looking very tight on space for the electronics. I had hoped to fit a Bluetooth module in so it can be controlled by a phone app but there’s unlikely to be room for that. Instead I’ll probably put in an adafruit itsy bitsy, micro usb lipo charger and a 500mah battery under the floor. I have a plan to use one of those magnetic charging cables, leaving the micro usb end plugged into the circuit board end, with the magnetic face flush with the outside of the hull, so instead of having to take fiddly magnetic panels off to plug it in I can just pop the charging cable straight on.
I also designed some rear landing gear bay recesseand doors, and started on the actual landing gear itself. The main structure of the gear is going to be brass tube I think, so that it can actually take the weight.
I would have liked to put three LEDs in each engine as it smooths out the “flickering” effect better, but it would have been quite cramped and I wasn’t in the mood for soldering in tight spaces to remove the excess wires.
Given how big the model is it’s looking very tight on space for the electronics. I had hoped to fit a Bluetooth module in so it can be controlled by a phone app but there’s unlikely to be room for that. Instead I’ll probably put in an adafruit itsy bitsy, micro usb lipo charger and a 500mah battery under the floor. I have a plan to use one of those magnetic charging cables, leaving the micro usb end plugged into the circuit board end, with the magnetic face flush with the outside of the hull, so instead of having to take fiddly magnetic panels off to plug it in I can just pop the charging cable straight on.
I also designed some rear landing gear bay recesseand doors, and started on the actual landing gear itself. The main structure of the gear is going to be brass tube I think, so that it can actually take the weight.
I’m wondering whether anyone has any ideas for what I can use to replace the gun barrels so I can light them up? I’m searching for any pieces from tank kits etc that might look similar to the original.
I normally use brass upgrade pieces for WW2 tanks or artillery (like the ones in the picture) but can’t find anything that even roughly matches this shape in the right scale. I know the U-wing in the films is just a CG model but I wonder whether they had any real life inspiration for parts like this?
I normally use brass upgrade pieces for WW2 tanks or artillery (like the ones in the picture) but can’t find anything that even roughly matches this shape in the right scale. I know the U-wing in the films is just a CG model but I wonder whether they had any real life inspiration for parts like this?
Analyzer
Master Member
It looks like if you cut off the one end of the brass piece with the holes, before it flares out into a cone shape, you could use that as the tip.
You can use a razor saw/jewelers' saw
Then maybe get the next size tubing for the silver colored metal parts to add towards the back to step it up a layer. Maybe even cut a small ring or two to put midway and then maybe you could even keep the last plastic section where it gets really wide, and just drill a hole through it
so using this quick mockup, D is the cut part, B is the silver colored tubing you have in that pack
A and C, would be bits of the next larger diameter tubing, and then some styrene bits added for the raised areas on part A
and finally, drill through the remaining plastic part at the base
Another possibility, although I don't know anything about the measurements for the item below, or how it would size, but something like this might also work if you find the right size match 1/35 ABER 35L-87 Four 2cm L/65 GUN BARRELS for GERMAN FLAK 38 FLAKVIERLING 38 | eBay
You can use a razor saw/jewelers' saw
Then maybe get the next size tubing for the silver colored metal parts to add towards the back to step it up a layer. Maybe even cut a small ring or two to put midway and then maybe you could even keep the last plastic section where it gets really wide, and just drill a hole through it
so using this quick mockup, D is the cut part, B is the silver colored tubing you have in that pack
A and C, would be bits of the next larger diameter tubing, and then some styrene bits added for the raised areas on part A
and finally, drill through the remaining plastic part at the base
Another possibility, although I don't know anything about the measurements for the item below, or how it would size, but something like this might also work if you find the right size match 1/35 ABER 35L-87 Four 2cm L/65 GUN BARRELS for GERMAN FLAK 38 FLAKVIERLING 38 | eBay
