Hasbro Nerf First Order "E7-11" Blaster Mod

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Fly4v, Sep 3, 2015.

Tags:
  1. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Just watched the Mexican Utube video for the deluxe first order blaster. It looks nice but the magazine is on the wrong side and kind of long. Think the first mod will be a 6 round mag repainted white. I hope it shows up on Amazon at midnight, I'm too lazy to got to Walmart.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2015
  2. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,890
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    I held this at a Walmart, it's really * big, but yeah far from accurate.
     
    JJ Griffin likes this.
  3. rebelyell

    rebelyell Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    361
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    I saw one at Wal-Mart as well. It looks like they just added a new barrel and stock to an existing Nerf design. Really lazy in my opinion. Nothing about it is accurate.
     
    JJ Griffin likes this.
  4. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Thanks for the info. It speaks volumes that you had them in hand and didn't purchase. Big is good ... far from accurate not so much. May get one on the first release and then hope for a bargain bin to flip the magazine and add the counter.

    I had hoped that the rebel electronic blaster would get a re-release... But I guess if the storm trooper deluxe doesn't get too much love there won't be much on the Star Wars nerf front.
     
  5. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    The blaster is up for order on amazon.com now for 39.99. Order in the next 2 hours and 30 minutes and get it on Saturday. Hope we get a $20ish price at Walmart or Target.
     
  6. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    toysrus.com has it now for $31.99.
     
  7. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
  8. Country Paul

    Country Paul Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,085
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    I quite like the look of the First Order Stormtrooper Nerf blaster pistol

    seems a little more accurate than the Rifle depending on its size

    these seem to only be around £12 so may pick one up

    I can't find a lot of reference for the actual prop so some of these are of other toys but apparently it is made from a Glock in some kind of conversion kit
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Country Paul

    Country Paul Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,085
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Picked the blaster pistol up in my local toy shop for £10

    given that Nerf guns usually seem to be a decent size I'd had high hopes but it's a bit undersized :(

    comparing it to a full size airsoft Glock it definitely looks small

    I actually still quite like it, enough to paint up for fun anyway

    I saw the Blaster rifle too it looked a good size but it just doesn't look enough like the film blaster
     

    Attached Files:

    widescreen likes this.
  10. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    The pictures of the pistol look nice. Local store didn't have any. They didn't even do Force Friday only normal hours with minimal decorations and even less stock. Only had one bowcaster, one vader Nerf light saber and two Deluxe Blasters. Yet they price matched toysrus.com sale so got it for $31! I kept the TRU page up on my phone since last night so it showed the discount and still in stock this morning. Now I have to wait 10 days to take it apart.
     
  11. NachyoChez

    NachyoChez New Member

    Trophy Points:
    3
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Went by the store and found the "battle buddies" (48 inch figures) and snagged some photos of his equipped blaster:

    2015-09-04 12.18.39.jpg 2015-09-04 12.18.44.jpg

    I also grabbed the Nerf Blaster from a nearby shelf (and foolishly failed to get photos) for comparison. The back stock on the blaster is completely removable, but aside from the dart loader causing the "Hump" to be on the wrong side, some predictable sizing issues (nerf seemed like it's just proportionally bigger overall), and the obvious color changes they seemed close enough for a passable unit for a quick toss together if, like myself, you're running low on time and materials.
     
  12. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,661
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    A Star Wars gun based on a Glock? Surely there must be other handguns that have more class.
     
    Inquisitor Peregrinus likes this.
  13. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Thanks for the reference photos. I was thinking about pulling the stock and replacing with a PVC cap, getting a shorter mag, and repainting. Might see if I can fit some blue LEDs.

    Anyone carrying the Nerf with have to be a southpaw if you want the hip holster mount.
     
  14. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    I have a new 6 round magazine on order to replace the 12 round mag that came with the baster.

    From the movie stills that are out there, Should the actual prop have a banana clip or is it straight? I think Nerf's 10 banana clip may be too long.

    Oh and one of the fallouts of Force Friday was over use of cellular data looking at store websites! Opps that is money that could have been better spent elsewhere.
     
  15. NachyoChez

    NachyoChez New Member

    Trophy Points:
    3
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    The 10 dart banana is definitely too long to be accurate, however it's likely matched to the scale (Nerf is much larger than screen) so it'll look alright.

    That said, I considering picking one of THESE up.

    A little sanding, cut off the stock, and it might make a decent base!
     
    Fly4v likes this.
  16. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    That new Rubies? would make a great source for the counter on the Nerf.
     
  17. JJ Griffin

    JJ Griffin Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,135
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Probably not, the Rubies FO blaster is criminally undersized (basically kid-sized). I think WITH the Phasma stock permanently attached it's like 17.5" long, which is WAY too small.
     
  18. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Well, looks like the counter and other parts will be made from scratch.

    For those that have yet to see the size of the Nerf Blaster minus the stock. Here is a comparison with the Episode 1 electronic droid blaster.

    [​IMG]

    Here is a 6 round magazine vs the supplied 12 round magazine, minus the over-sized receiver.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the left cover removed.

    [​IMG]

    Sadly, the stock is not telescopic. That confirms the need for a PVC tube extension on the back.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  19. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    [​IMG]

    I was accused of mixing genres by working on Indiana Jones and Star Wars at the same time.....

    [​IMG]

    I was able to separate the butt-stock. It is held by a plastic clip that is visible from the inside but there is no way to release it. So just bored it out with a drill and have started working on the templates to figure out the parts that need to be added.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  20. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Made some minor progress. Roughed out the counter and the buffer extension.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  21. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Nerf First Order Blaster

    Have the blast deflectors and scope done.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I will be using Krylon Fusion for Plastic Satin. I hope it sticks... a couple of pieces I already know will need to be repainted because of chipping... which sucks because the paint really sticks to my fingernails, just not the blaster parts.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  22. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Re: Hasbro Nerf First Order "AKA E7-11" Blaster

    [​IMG]

    Most of the major add-on components have been fabricated expect the front sight post, rear sight and the scope rail 'channel'.

    Just a color change, counter and longer scope really help the appearance.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  23. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    [​IMG]

    I was able to finish the front of the blaster before the weather fell apart today.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
    Udermeister, Unfated and CT7567 like this.
  24. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    [​IMG]

    Have to wait the full 7 days for complete chip resistance but the blaster for the most part is done. Some of the carved details on the tube extension are soft and need to be better defined.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  25. mykindofscum

    mykindofscum Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    666
    Thanks for posting, this is good stuff. I've been wrestling with how to do this.

    Could you expand a little more on how you did the (what I assume is a) PVC pipe?

    In particular, how did you inset it into the receiver and also the stock? Like how far do you stick the pipe in, i.e. do the ahh, dart-shooting innards still work, or what of the current extension from rear of receiver do you remove?

    I don't know if I'm asking those questions correctly, but rather than micro-questions what I'm trying to get at is that using a PVC pipe to extend the rear is the conclusion I came to before seeing your thread, but I'm not sure how much / what / where to remove.

    And btw absolutely agreed that a little paint goes a very long way if one doesn't want to cut.

    Thanks again for sharing!
     
  26. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Azrok, thanks for your questions and interest in the build.

    Yes, is it predominately PVC pipe and sheet stryrene with a few other bits. I'll generate a more detailed shopping list by each individual part and also post the templates that I used on the sheet plastic.

    There is very little cutting of the actual blaster and all the internals still work. I removed a couple of the the safeties but that is not important for the cosmetics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is the back of the blaster and the stock extension locks by friction to the silver thing that I had to make and the inner surface of the white outer PVC ring.... So unlike the movie blaster my silver thing is oversized and does not spin.

    But I will have a parts shopping list and better build details tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
    Bogleo likes this.
  27. mykindofscum

    mykindofscum Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    666
    That's great, thank you. And silver thing, I christen thee Fly4verator!
     
  28. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Ha, with the anniversary of Back to the Future I was worried my new moniker would be Mc-Fly4v.

    [​IMG]

    Here are the few templates that I made and how the one piece stock became two pieces after the mod.

    The most useful will the front sight post guard.
    The counter has more relief than represented by the card and it's maximum is 1 3/6 inches deep once everything is fully boxed in. I made a window for numbers but just put a white plate on the inside. I may order a cheep counter from amazon to have spinning numbers.

    [​IMG]

    The circle is the base of the silver "handle" on the buttcap.
    Also have the sides of the rear sight, the two part folding stock retainer, and the elongated oval for each side of the tube extension. I made it as a cut recess but it may project out as a plate.
    All other styrene parts were built as I went along.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2018
  29. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    List of materials and tools. This will sadly highlight the junk nature of my builds.

    Parchment Paper: to line your work surface hot glue and super glue will not stick to it. When making a block of styrene from sheets the bottom surface should start off true and the excess run off doesn't stick so no filling required.

    Heat Gun: to shape the front sight post guard
    Hobby Knife
    Files
    220 sand paper
    super glue
    hot glue
    screw drivers
    masking tape
    drill
    metal ruler: for the scribe and break technique on the sheet styrene
    block of wood: to serve as a form for profile the front sight post guard.

    Build Materials:
    Nerf Deluxe blaster before you attach the side receiver.
    .080 styrene
    .10 styrene
    Duplicolor Chrome CS101 Enamel
    Krylon Fusion for Plastic Satin White 2420
    Krylon Fusion for Plastic Satin Black 2421
    Rustoleum Universal Satin Black 246433, tired of the long dry time of the Krylon.
    PVC SCH40 1 1/4 pipe with integrated coupler, for the blaster tube extension, stock extension, ejector port cover. The integrated coupler is for the buttcap.
    Charlotte Pipe CP-114-P CPVC for the back of the scope
    Silver Lining SL-M7 NSF-pw G for the front blast deflector on the side of the barrel
    ? unmarked PVC pipe for the front of the scope
    ? unmarked thin pipe not SCH40 PVC fits inside the Nerf stock and the 1 1/4 PVC without sanding.
    Two Target brand round Mechanical Pencils, exterior tubes are for the power cylinders and the interior lead holder tubes are cut for the three terminals on the front of the counter.
    Charging handle leftover from my previous NERF BSG Blaster build, for the charging handle on the right side of the E-11.
    Front sight post from the inside of the deluxe blaster's scope.

    For the PVC parts just take your blaster and visit a plumber that would have lots of scrap and see what fits. The lengths required for this build are garbage to everyone else....well expect of the integrated coupler. I only really wanted that for the preexisting taper for the back of the buttcap and it didn't have and interior stop.... less things to sand.
     
  30. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    I didn't want to post this until I found the original author, I really need to add notes to my digital files.
    For the decals on the front of the blaster visit:
    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=238870&highlight=3d+episode+blaster
    and thank kenlandrum for the images.
    I printed them off on self adhesive paper and then sealed the decals with 3M long storage clear packing tape.
    Just cut the tape slightly larger than the decal to seal the edges. This is also a good use of the parchment paper.
    First adhere the paper decal and then an oversized piece of tape. Then you can cut the tape to the size you want. This solves any line up problems and guarantees an equal and parallel edge since the paper can sometimes jump.
    Also use your hobby knife to "move" the clear tape since it likes to pick up finger prints.
     
  31. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    I recommend not attaching the receiver to the blaster before the modification so you can remove the magazine release components and the four orange prongs before painting the receiver and the mag release.
    If you have attached the receiver, no worries, a flat screw driver from the inside of the blaster will help release the prongs. You will have to disassemble the blaster anyway to remove the trigger, ejection port cover and barrel cap. Paint doesn’t stick well to these orange parts, even a fine sanding and cleaning with alcohol doesn’t always work. The only thing special about the painting of these three parts is the barrel cap. The order I used is white, black and then chrome. The chrome does not like masking tape and will loose its shine if taped over. If you use the Krylon Fusion you have to wait the full 7 days for the chip resistance. It seems to have worked on all but the mag release. Since the blaster is apart, the black screws can that are on the white areas of the blaster can be painted white.

    With the blaster apart you can now sand down the Star Wars on the right side and remove the front sight. I kept the Imperial Crest on the right side but wish I had removed the fake counter detail to have more of a smooth side like the movie blaster.

    The scope can be cut at anytime just save the little front sight post or you will have to make a new one. I completely removed the front and cut the back just aft of the knurled texture and inserted the pipe pieces. Once the glue is dry paint it black and then chrome. The scope, at least on mine, points nose up thanks to the spring retainer. May build a new scope from scratch or adapt a 3d printed scope to slide on as a replacement.

    The stock 11 round magazine is replaced with a 6 round mag from the Nerf Reload Kit. Just remove the Nerf markings and sand the bottom flush. Mask the internal plate and a couple spots on the now flush bottom and paint black. The new mag base plate was shaped from .10 white styrene with a hole drilled it before gluing.

    The stock has to be separated into its two parts. Sadly, the two back halves are well glued but if you look from the inside you will see a square tab, about ½ inch by 1 inch. That tab has to be released. I was not able to pry it loose and just drilled it out from the inside. That separated the two parts. The tube extension on the blaster and the stock are both made from 1¼ pipe. I used a single piece to determine the length and then cut it to form the two new parts and the fitted coupler. Don’t glue anything until all pipe parts have been fitted to your liking!
    Glue a piece of .10 styrene to the back of the blaster PVC tube extension and file to a circle using the tube as a reference.
    Shape and sand the coupler.
    Now slip the coupler over the back of the blaster tube with a 1/8 of an inch recess.
    The stock extension should fit into the coupler.
    Shape the two folding stock latches from two pieces of .10 styrene, each. Please see the templates. You should have four little parts. Remember, they are left and right when glued together. I glued the latches together with super glue but glued to the coupler with hot glue so they can repositioned if off.
    The little block on the bottom of the blaster tube is three pieces of .10 and two pieces of .08 glued together to form a solid rectangle so it could be carved to the rounded shape. This is completely glued with super glue using the latches as a guide.
    The rear sight and U channel is completely made or .10 styrene and super glue. I made the rear sight assembly and the U channel separately and then fitted everything on the tube extension.
    For the silver handle that the rear stock attached around, use the inside diameter of the 1¼ pipe as a template and help shape two pieces of .10 styrene into a circle. Make the vertical portion as long and thick as you fell necessary and glue the rectangle to the center of the styrene disk. Use a scrap piece of 1¼ pipe as a guide when sanding. My guide was only ¾ of a circle so the pieces could not get stuck together.
    Cut a corresponding channel on the plumbing part that fits inside the stock and stock extension. Once the fit is as required. Glue the stock parts together and then super glue the silver handle to the back of the blaster extension. Use the 1¼ scrape as a guide and keep the super glue on the center only and well away from the guide.

    The counter is a hollow styrene box built up using .080 and .10 sheets and the internals of a mechanical pencil with the relief on the left side as a guide. Since it is hollow the armed indicator could have a red LED and battery installed and the previously mentioned number counter from Amazon if you have a TK number to display.
    The box was built using hot glue and the surface detail is super glued. The finished box just sits on the side on the blaster. I sanded down the paint on the blaster of the glue to adhere and hot glued the finished counter in place.

    The power cylinders are the exterior tubes of the Target Mechanical Pencils, cut 2 5/8 inches long the rectangular side and top plates are .08 styrene. The tips of the tubes are sealed with hot glue. They were set vertically on the parchment paper so a flush finished surface was created when dry. They are mounted with super glue. Please take care with hot glue and the mechanical pencil parts, if the glue is too hot the tubes with melt and distort.

    The front sight assembly is composed of two parts like a real Sterling, The sight guard and the sight itself. It was made with black .080 styrene and the saved post from the scope. The front sight is two pieces of .080 layered to form a rectangle with a round hole in the center to hold the vertical post. This part is painted Chrome.
    The front sight guard was shaped using the paper template and then folded to shape over a wooden form. I made two but surprisingly the first came out the best.
    Now the assumption here is that the barrel has been painted black, the barrel cap is installed and blaster has been reassembled.
    Figure out when you want the front sight assembly but only glue the parts on the right half of the blaster. I left the left half unglued with the hope that I can take it apart if required and not break the front assembly.

    The side charging handle I used was shaped from a left over Nerf pistol charging handle. It already had a flared shape for the finger catch without that bit of Nerf scrap could just make a rectangular tube. I build up the rectangle sides and front slope detail with sheet styrene. I hollowed the inside so it would sit at a 45 degree angle on top the fake counter detail on the right side. It was primed black and then painted chrome. The finished piece was then hot glued to the blaster.

    The final detail was the application of the Imperial warning label on the front of the blaster.

    The only detail that I believe is lacking is the after extension to the folding stock and the tear drop pivot point just aft of the pistol grip.
    Well that is except…. lights and sound. I guess a pressure switch could be added behind the trigger, have the space between the barrel and the cooling shroud light up and store the batteries in either the counter or the pistol grip while retaining the ability to shoot darts.

    Still it is too bad the receiver is on the wrong side.

    Hope this info helps with future improvements to the Nerf blaster.
     
    jhazard likes this.
  32. MasterObiWill

    MasterObiWill New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    Do you have a step by step guide to this?
     
  33. MasterObiWill

    MasterObiWill New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    NEVER MIND. Gotta do a lot of reading here......
     
  34. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Master Obi Will, Did you find the info you needed?

     
  35. Warmachine2000

    Warmachine2000 Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    242
    currently trying to do something like this myself, and i love this build, definitely gonna go the same route if i can
     
  36. Fly4v

    Fly4v Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,186
    Sorry nothing new to see here.
    Just went back and rehosted the images and hope that postimage.org doesn't do what photobucket did.
     

Share This Page