Hasbro Boba Fett blaster upgrade/conversion

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Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi everyone,
new to this forum and i'm working on a standard Hasbro Boba Fett blaster upgrade/conversion. Just thought i'd share the build here.:)

idea :
a new paint job, a new main led upgrade and possibly a rumble motor.

So here it begins, taking the blaster apart :




The component overview (rumble motor not included on this picture yet, but i have it in working condition on the workbench) :
I would like to thank Rhyen Skytracker from TCSS forum for the TIP42B transistor tip as this circuit is based on one of his hasbro economy soundboard schematics and he was kind enough to let me know which one he used in those setups. I just used the same solution on this blaster pcb.





Component overview in the blaster :







Gonna switch the 5mm led diffusing plastic with a 1 inch thin walled polycarbonate blade (a mini lightsaber ;) )





More updates as i progress through this upgrade/conversion :)
 

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Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
update :

Sanded down the tube to get the light diffused more (a technique from Erv i believe ?) and used some gift wrap i picked up locally. Gift wrap was wrapped about 4 times inside the tube.





Figured out a way to get the new main LED fixed in the tube. Used some salvaged hard drive screws and some plastic M3 allen screws to fix everything in place. A colleague from work who's brother owns a lathe made the alu disc from an aluminium rod. I used my column drill for all the holes and threaded everything by hand.

Some detailed views :













Rumble motor test setup. This one was picked up a couple years back in the sale section on FX-sabers from JudgeSabersmith. They run something in between 1 - 3 Volts. As it turns out i have 2,95V on the main LED and if i wire it parallel with the main led i get a nice running motor at max speed. You can use a resistor of course to tune down the rumble a bit.







next up will be wiring clean up while looking for a way to install the rumble motor. I'm thinking using some apoxie sculpt in the hilt (sourced by Master Jevaho, thx again ;) ) and a 12mm copper tube i have in my inventory to assemble the scope back together. I'll probably be using the apoxie sculpt compound to fix the tube in the barrel too while all this should also add some weight to the blaster.
 
Last edited:

abaddon1974

Active Member
How close is the size of the HAsbro body to the original flare gun?
I know that the stock is way off but what about the body of the pistol?

Craig
 

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Slave1

Sr Member
Would love to see this setup installed in a full size resin blaster. Looks excellent.


How close is the size of the HAsbro body to the original flare gun?
I know that the stock is way off but what about the body of the pistol?

Craig
The whole thing is undersized. Looks rather good and they got some of the details right that would often be overlooked, but it would be best used for a your person's costume.
 

Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yup, it is indeed too small to be really screen accurate. Nevertheless, a fun little blaster :thumbsup

another small update :

I've cut a 12mm copper tube to the correct length so i can assemble the scope back together. In my parts drawer i've found a 12mm lens of (as far as i can remember that is) a broken DVD player. I usually gut lots of things for parts before they move to the bin :D This fits nicely at the front end of the scope so when you look through it, you'll get a nice added scope effect.





Dremelled out the Hasbro speaker grill with a Dremel grinding disk for some added loudness.



Decided to add some weight to the removable stock with a modeling compound called Apoxie sculpt. Certainly alot heavier now.





The stock is hardening out at this time and i expect to have my plastic allen screws coming in tomorrow so i can move back to the electronics side of things. :)
 

Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Very small update :

working on the removable end of the blaster. At the moment primer is drying.

Meanwhile i took some smaller parts to try and get some kind of weathered look going as my resources and experience with this are very limited. Nevertheless i'm giving it a go and see where it leads me. For now i've done the trigger and speaker holder :



3 layers : primer, alu/metal looking paint and a matt black on top while carefully removing the matt black as it's still wet and some sanding after that to get to a weathered look.
 

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Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
update :

did some work on the removable back-end. After filling up the holes where the screws are i sanded everything down so primer would stick good and i could get a nice finish.

Same layers here as on the trigger/speakerholder : regular primer on the apoxie sculpt and plastic primer on the rest followed by a metallic looking paint and a matt black finish. For the weathering i layed down a good base => metallic paint and then i looked at where it would logically weather the most. The back end for example has almost no more black finish and so on ... For a first try i'm happy with how this turned out *:)



More detailed view :

 

Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thx y'all :)

Time for another update as i've made some progress and my end cap came in :D

This will go at the end of the tube and has 5 layers of mirrored foil attached. This simply to prevent blinding anyone while firing and to bounce light back into the tube.


Then i also made some progress on the paint job/sculpting. Made the barrel end heavier with apoxie sculpt and spraypainted the inside with primer and then chrome to distribute the light a bit more inside the barrel. The battery cap is also filled up with apoxie sculpt, primered and spraypainted metallic. Sanded down the outside of the blaster, primer and then metallic again.



Also in the works as we speak : cleaning up wiring. To be continued ...
 

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Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Another update :
Wiring is done. All components are gonna be glued/sculpted into place.



The rumble motor is sculpted in the grip using some aves apoxie sculpt.



Cap in place. No glue needed here as it fit's just right and once everything is put together in the end it won't ever come off anyways.



Yellow tape below will be removed later, this is just to keep the main LED wires in place until the glue is dry. The transistor will be placed directly underneath the battery holder. I got lucky i had one of these heatsinks in my inventory without having to modify it. :)



More on this soon as i'm seeing the finish line on the horizon with lots of sculpting, weathering etc ... ;)
 

Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thx :)
More progress :

Filled up the inside of the blaster as much as possible with Apoxie sculpt to add weight. Kept the space behind the speaker empty though as i don't want to compromise on sound too much.



Started to sculpt with the same apoxie on the outside. Filling up those screw holes and where the two blaster halves meet. Trying to sculpt the fins on the barrel end too as well as keeping that diamond raster going on the grip.



That's it for now.
 

Ki Djowac

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've entered the final stages of this conversion.

Detailing done and last primer layer done.





Alu layer is drying as we speak ;)
 

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