SaberFreak
Sr Member
Hi Philip, will the top come in a few sections so that its possible for international buyers to get in on the run?
Has anyone made a Millenium Falcon chess table?
- Thread starter blufive
- Start date
vaderdarth
Master Member
very interested keep us posted. 
Dave
Dave
Rebelscum
Sr Member
Let's see if I can answer all the questions here...
It is my intention to make complete tables, including the lights, and whatever else seems to make sense to build in, maybe some sounds as well since we have those three knobs and two buttons on each side. I'd like them to do something.
I see no reason I can't make each component available to whoever wants it, including complete tables. I'm guessing that even just the actual playing surface would be nice to have for a lot of people.
I don't know how the top will be built up, but I'm guessing it will be in two parts and certainly they could be shipped separately, making it easier to ship than a completed top. The only thing I worry about is the guy doing the tops as these will be a lot of work and I don't know how many he will be up for doing. I also worry about the cost of the top piece.
Keep in mind this is a project I will continue to work on, but I'm not trying to rush it at all because when done, I have very high expectations for the finished pieces.
It is my intention to make complete tables, including the lights, and whatever else seems to make sense to build in, maybe some sounds as well since we have those three knobs and two buttons on each side. I'd like them to do something.
I see no reason I can't make each component available to whoever wants it, including complete tables. I'm guessing that even just the actual playing surface would be nice to have for a lot of people.
I don't know how the top will be built up, but I'm guessing it will be in two parts and certainly they could be shipped separately, making it easier to ship than a completed top. The only thing I worry about is the guy doing the tops as these will be a lot of work and I don't know how many he will be up for doing. I also worry about the cost of the top piece.
Keep in mind this is a project I will continue to work on, but I'm not trying to rush it at all because when done, I have very high expectations for the finished pieces.
southreplicas
Well-Known Member
I am working on the pieces but I am very busy with my other job, I hope to have the whole set finished soon.
Regards.
Martin
SaberFreak
Sr Member
I have a suggestion.
If the top can be made in a few hollow sections that can be glued/snapped together, it'll make things lot easier. i guess what I'm suggesting is a holochess table 'kit'.
The red sections are identical, and the green sections are identical (except for the keys and knobs, which are made separately anyway), so you only need to make one red section and one blue section, and then replicate that. The blue section can then be just a flat piece to be dropped on top and secured. Even that can be made as half or even a quarter sections and then replicated
The leg can also be made in half/quarter sections for ease of shipping.
I personally would want to only buy the table top(red, green and blue) sections, plus the keys and knobs, as I can make the leg myself, provided detail dimensions are included.
If the top can be made in a few hollow sections that can be glued/snapped together, it'll make things lot easier. i guess what I'm suggesting is a holochess table 'kit'.
The red sections are identical, and the green sections are identical (except for the keys and knobs, which are made separately anyway), so you only need to make one red section and one blue section, and then replicate that. The blue section can then be just a flat piece to be dropped on top and secured. Even that can be made as half or even a quarter sections and then replicated
The leg can also be made in half/quarter sections for ease of shipping.
I personally would want to only buy the table top(red, green and blue) sections, plus the keys and knobs, as I can make the leg myself, provided detail dimensions are included.
southreplicas
Well-Known Member
I like it!
Regarding the leg it can be a PVC pipe attached to the lower ring, that might be done.
Regarding the leg it can be a PVC pipe attached to the lower ring, that might be done.
I have a suggestion.
If the top can be made in a few hollow sections that can be glued/snapped together, it'll make things lot easier. i guess what I'm suggesting is a holochess table 'kit'..
Rebelscum
Sr Member
Yes, I definitely plan the game surface itself to be aluminum. has to be to match the prop. the black sections appear to be painted though. I have heard of being able to mask for anodizing, but have no idea if it's really possible, or what it would look like.
Rebelscum
Sr Member
An interesting thought, making just the two different top sections, then putting them together. cool.
Rebelscum
Sr Member
Re: Has anyone made a Millennium Falcon chess table?
Just for grins, if you have Acrobat Reader 8.0 installed, you can view the table model in 3D mode, turning and zooming as you wish.
Select save as to your local drive:
http://www.rebelscum.com/2008/holochess.pdf
Just for grins, if you have Acrobat Reader 8.0 installed, you can view the table model in 3D mode, turning and zooming as you wish.
Select save as to your local drive:
http://www.rebelscum.com/2008/holochess.pdf
Rebelscum
Sr Member
Same for me. When my friend that did the drawing said he could export for it, I knew it was time to upgrade. Seems amazing a free reader can do this.
Rebelscum
Sr Member
I've been working on how to do the actual playing surface. Paint, vinyl, silk screen, etc., and how to protect it as unlike the prop, I think this surface will need protection from wear.
This is a photo of a small scale test over sanded aluminum. This is sprayed black, pattern etched with a laser, and clear coated with enamel.
Note, this is not the final type of sanding though as when it's round it will be grained more finely while spinning, like the original.
I'd like to hear opinions on the different possibilites for finishing this. I don't have any experience with silk screen, or other methods of protecting the finished piece.
The original appears to be painted black and unprotected, which some may still want.
http://www.rebelscum.com/2008/holochess-paint-test.jpg
This is a photo of a small scale test over sanded aluminum. This is sprayed black, pattern etched with a laser, and clear coated with enamel.
Note, this is not the final type of sanding though as when it's round it will be grained more finely while spinning, like the original.
I'd like to hear opinions on the different possibilites for finishing this. I don't have any experience with silk screen, or other methods of protecting the finished piece.
The original appears to be painted black and unprotected, which some may still want.
http://www.rebelscum.com/2008/holochess-paint-test.jpg
Rebelscum
Sr Member
Another update.
We revised the key dimensions a bit when we finshined the table drawings. Have also opted for posts in the bottom for gluing them in place since there isn't enough room to screw them in from the bottom.
I'd also like some feedback on the keys. Since there are so many of them, 54 per table, most options are expensive, plus they would be a bit fragile if resin or wood, I'm planning on having them machined, or possibly diecast. Anybody have any thoughts on the diecast option?
I believe the original keys were made from wood and painted.
Again, with Acrobat v8 you can view this in 3d mode.
http://www.rebelscum.com/2008/key.pdf
We revised the key dimensions a bit when we finshined the table drawings. Have also opted for posts in the bottom for gluing them in place since there isn't enough room to screw them in from the bottom.
I'd also like some feedback on the keys. Since there are so many of them, 54 per table, most options are expensive, plus they would be a bit fragile if resin or wood, I'm planning on having them machined, or possibly diecast. Anybody have any thoughts on the diecast option?
I believe the original keys were made from wood and painted.
Again, with Acrobat v8 you can view this in 3d mode.
http://www.rebelscum.com/2008/key.pdf
southreplicas
Well-Known Member
Great!
I like the play board results you are arriving to.
Regarding the keys I think that cold cast (aluminium powder + clear resin) would be great. It is cheaper to machine them and they would be really strong.
Regards.
Martin
I like the play board results you are arriving to.
Regarding the keys I think that cold cast (aluminium powder + clear resin) would be great. It is cheaper to machine them and they would be really strong.
Regards.
Martin
vaderdarth
Master Member
Philip, have you thought about painting the surface on the underside of a lucite circle and attaching that to the table top??? It would be very durable and the details wouldn't ever get "rubbed off" that way.
Dave
Dave
Rebelscum
Sr Member
Philip, have you thought about painting the surface on the underside of a lucite circle and attaching that to the table top??? It would be very durable and the details wouldn't ever get "rubbed off" that way.
Dave
Well, it wouldn't be accurate, but I can see how it might be a way to do it for some. Certainly very easy to do for me.
damon5973
Well-Known Member
that 3D mode is too cool. I think cold cast resin with the aluminum powder would be good, sure you may have a few junk ones and a bit of sanding, but not too expensive I would think. Lighter as well.
as for the table top, why cant it be worn out? I prefer the weathered /used look. Especially with Southreplicas/MRBarlows great pieces..
as for the table top, why cant it be worn out? I prefer the weathered /used look. Especially with Southreplicas/MRBarlows great pieces..
