Han Solo - Star Wars- A New Hope Laser Blaster - Hyper Accurate DL-44 Replica

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by kpax, Aug 23, 2015.

  1. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Hello all Star Wars and Han Solo blaster lovers...


    I have been asked to post links and images of my Han Solo replica Blaster build made from DEC (Dark Energy Creations) and MGC c-96 Mauser parts in case anyone wanted to use them for reference material.


    The project was started in January 2011 with RPF member Deadbolt. We set out to find answers and details never before known about the original ANH Han Solo blaster prop and build an accurate kit for RPF members.


    The following images are the culmination of over 4 years of research and development by many RPF members ending with an ongoing discussion of over 3300 posts and 133 pages! THE SEARCH GOES ON !

    What we ended up with was a Hyper Accurate parts kit based on newly found greeblies original parts as well as endless 2d drawings and images from many RPF members and 3d model builds by Deadbolt.

    There are comparison overlays which show, IMO, that the accompanying photos are as near an identical photographic match to the original prop as possible.

    I attempted to make my rendition of the prop a exact "duplicate" of the screen used A New Hope blaster prop as used by as Han Solo, so I decided to duplicate the final post production - last know images of the prop in the same condition as it was last held by Harrison Ford in 1976.* with every Mauser marking and proof mark, HW Scope markings, scratch, ding and surface detail blemish as seen in the available production images. Some of the work includes the asymmetric scope mount risers, Naked Runner Bull barrel latch and removable recoil buffer, Carson's Lump, Real c-96 hammer with correct serial # markings and corrected safety and much more.

    I include comparison images of the actual prop and of my replica as well as detail images in color to show what the actual real prop may have looked like in person...in 1976.

    Thanks for looking.


    KPAX...
    REAL PROP AND REPRO IN B&W

    Dam you photobucket!


    B&W compare real HERO to Replica
    blaster right hero vs replica B&W enhanced.jpg

    Full color side views of replica
    1- The Star Wars - Laser Gun - RIGHT - color-POST-enhanced.jpg 2 - The Star Wars - Laser Gun - LEFT - color - POST- enhanced.jpg








    Blaster photo collection - http://s823.photobucket.com/user/ar...Wars-A New Hope- Han Solo Blaster Gun Replica

    Dark Energy Creations DEC - http://darkenergycreations.com/

    RPF Blaster super thread - http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=118186
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2018
  2. newmagrathea

    newmagrathea Sr Member

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  3. Ven Dean

    Ven Dean Member

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    The title of this post lives up to its name. Congratulations on the completion of your build. I do have a question regarding a ANH Hero DL44. Did the live fire Mauser have the "Mauser" emblem and German lettering on the sides? Looking at reference pictures I can't tell.
     
  4. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Thanks!
    Yes the lettering markings are there on the original prop and duplicated on my MGC as seen below. There are no other emblems on this version of the c-96 .The main marking are covered by the scope mount crossbar and the W and O can just be seen on the pre-production (unfinished ANH prop ) image below. FYI, the scope mount is reversed here as well. In as used form it is as my model. In these images you can see the scratches and markings better as well as the odd "Carson's Lump" which we assume is a welding fix at the rear of the receiver just in front of the charging bolt. I also re-cut the tang sight thumb knurl which you can see in the image below. Some details changed and were added in production due to damage most likely, such as the grip gouges seen in the Black and White post production images above.

    [​IMG]





    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
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  5. scottjua

    scottjua Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Truly epic. Makes me want to readdress mine and get every detail
     
  6. Edraven99

    Edraven99 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Very nice!! Understatement I know but the words fail me at the moment....
     
  7. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Thanks Scott, but yours is great...and goes BANG! LOUD!
     
  8. Daniel Nelms

    Daniel Nelms Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  9. Trilan

    Trilan Jr Member

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    Truly amazing! Thanks for posting! And good timing for me too. I FINALLY found a good MGC Mauser last week and it's being shipped to me now. I can't wait!

    I'm curious, did you use the DEC aluminum flash hider or the limited run DEC steel one? I have both, I'm curious if you feel more strongly about one over the other?
     
  10. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    I used the all steel and brass kit, but also customized them and made custom parts that are a bit different to match the used condition of the HERO prop.

    The Kits are done to be "pristine and perfected".

    All the versions are the same cosmetically. Same dimensions and accuracy...just different materials for cost.

    My MGC is also very modified.

    By the way, DEC is doing another run of Aluminum and cast parts...and also a limited run of STEEL parts!
     
  11. Ven Dean

    Ven Dean Member

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    Thanks kpax i appreciate the information and pictures!
     
  12. deadbolt

    deadbolt Sr Member

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    Your blaster gets more gorgeous every time I see it. Again, wonderful work, Pat!

    That there is the greatest replica ANH blaster ever built.


    -Carson
     
  13. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Thanks Carson. Would not have been possible without your dedication and tireless work!
     
  14. Anakin Starkiller

    Anakin Starkiller Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]
    This has got to be one of my favorite pictures ever posted on the RPF:cool
     
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  15. Elfenstahl

    Elfenstahl Active Member

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    Hi kpax,

    first: Thank you very much for all the effort you put into the researches. You and the other members have done such an incredible job, that gives guys like me the opportunity to build our own blasters as accurate as we are able to do.

    And by looking at your blaster here, I still can't believe that this is actually based on a MGC C96! How did you achieved that perfect blueing look if I might ask? As far as I know the MGC C96 is made of aluminium alloy, right?
     
  16. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Thanks for the kind words !

    The MGC and Denix are made of Zamac...same as most die cast metal stuff.

    It is mostly Zinc and can be cold blued with standard gun bluing. There are many tips in the below thread and others as well.

    Just gotta clean it and follow the instructions for bluing metal. Several coats may be needed. I applied color and weathered it and applied several more times until I got the well worn look I wanted.

    I also did a lot of custom work to the frame for more accurate Mauser details including all the etched markings and correct serial number and real c96 hammer etc.

    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=118186

    There are parts available for the ANH and now the new TFA blaster kits if you are looking to build one...or two !

    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=250942
    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=220734
    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=250942

    Good luck !
     
  17. Elfenstahl

    Elfenstahl Active Member

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    Yeah, I already read about the customizing work you did on the MGC. Really amazing!

    Thanks for the information! I always thought Aluminium Black from Birchwood Casey would be the only option if you don't want to use paint.
     
  18. Sabs

    Sabs Member

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  19. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Hey ! Thanks for looking so close !

    Actually mine does have the asymmetric scope angles and even the off center scope mount window...if you look close.

    But the reason the gap looks so much bigger on the real hero is that it is missing the rear tang sight release button !

    I was not entirely sure if it was actually missing from the HERO or just cut off in the photograph. The inner part is visible from the LEFT side so I left mine on.

    It is very difficult to match the angles and photographic look of the original without the correct equipment.

    Tried to get close but with digital cameras it's tough to duplicate the field of the original 50-55mm lens and 35mm film.

    At different distances the angles and forced perspective changes dramatically. I tried to match the angles as best I could but you really don't know how close you got until you see it on a monitor and compare.

    The lighting was also very difficult. I tried studio spot lights and reflectors but found natural sunlight worked best...of course I had to wait for the sun to be a approximately the same angle for the shadows to be close.

    Not perfect but close enough for me...for now... ; )
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2016
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  20. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    This is the Naked Runner barrel detail with threaded barrel for the extended rifle barrel segments and release latch... and it works!

    ...and those scratches are accurate...

    [​IMG]
     
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  21. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    This is the barrel attachment set up I used. I wanted to keep all the working function and look of the NR barrel and also replicate the look of the only front HERO pic that shows a small bullet muzzle hole...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  22. OldKen

    OldKen Master Member

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    I hate this thread... Stop bumping it!!!

    Just being silly, but seriously...

    Dear God.

    I need that.

    Truly amazing work.

    I wouldn't be shocked if your next post was a video of it actually firing a laser blast...

    Saying that it looks accurate doesn't really cut it. Best to just say, THAT looks freaking REAL.
     
  23. Sundowner

    Sundowner Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is incredible! I'm going to really try to get as close to this finish as possible for my TFA. #blastergoals
     
  24. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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  25. OldKen

    OldKen Master Member

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    If only the real TFA prop looked like this...

    I've thought about building a TFA as well. But I'm sorry to say that Kpax's ANH >>>>> TFA real prop in every way aesthetically.

    I would love to have the complete collection of accurate Han blasters...

    But if I could only have one... It would be this monster that Kpax and friends have created. I drooled over this thread when it was first posted. I've tried to forget about it!

    I have a resin Greedo killer kit that for some reason, this thread is inspiring me to dig out.

    Though it won't cure my need for an uber accurate metal ANH blaster.

    Seriously, get this thread out of my face!!!

    :p
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2016
  26. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    In case you didn't know...

    These are parts kit available for both the TFA and ANH, same type I used. Dave also offers base Mausers already modified.
    The presale is up for the TFA and also ANH blaster kit runs at Dark Energy Creations:

    http://darkenergycreations.com/currentproject.aspx

    Dave is taking orders up to Jan 30...I think so he can get materials.

    Don't want anyone to miss out...
     
  27. KramStaar

    KramStaar Sr Member

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    This is beyond incredible, thanks for sharing!

    Highest regards

    MARK
     
  28. OdiWan72

    OdiWan72 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    HOW did I miss this??? incredible :eek

    May I ask how you archieved this? Did you have it commissioned?
    What did you use for the knurled disk at the barrel tip/ inside the muzzle?
     
  29. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    High praise indeed coming from you. Still jealous for your prop store Golden Idol replica. Beautiful.
     
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  30. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    hey Markus, thanks.
    i did all the work myself. Resculpting the details of a real Mauser on the MGC frame. Had to change the knurled on the safety, bolt sight release. All hand filed. recut the sight notches and reshaped all the features to match.

    The knurl ed muzzle disk is really a threaded insert in the bullbarrel just like the real one must have had as a muzzle restrictor. There is an image of ford holding the blaster front view where you can see the small hole.

    I made it to actually hold the bull barrel in place so it can be removed if necessary and I didn't need to use the 3 set screws because I wanted to be able to show the naked runner barrel accurately.

    The markings were all etched as was the mystery disk. The mystery disk blotches are accurate as well and change appearance in different lighting like the real one. I imagine the actual marks are glue and missing bluing just like the front sight. Pretty sure the sight is as last seen on the hero. Matches images perfectly I think.

    thanks for looking!
     
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  31. OdiWan72

    OdiWan72 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I think I expressed myself incorrect...should have been more specific ;)

    OF COURSE have I seen this wonderful build before! :cool
    I just missed the addition of the Naked Runner barrel feature(s), esp. the small latch. mgoob planned to have such a barrel custom made, but never got around to do this afaik.
    I guess your base is Daves steel barrel from the first run, correct? What was involved to add the latch/ how did you get this to actually work?!

    Thx, Markus :)
     
  32. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Yes. Daves steel barrel. Cut a rectangular notch and drilled a hole lengthwise to insert a spring bar with machined latch lock.
    I made a threaded insert to simulate the rifle barrel threads and left a slight raised area as a gas seal.

    Ive seen some similar barrel locks and tried to match the lock as close as possible from the best images.
    Should be pretty close. There are actually scratches behind the latch lock tab that can be seen on some stills.
    I also cut a relief inside the booster to allow the latch to insert without forcing it. Just Compress the latch lock and fit the booster over top.
     
  33. puma1824

    puma1824 New Member

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    Thanks so much for this! This is outstanding work. I wish I have the funds to make one so I need to resort to 3D renderings and 3D prints :(

    Was wondering if I can get some measurements. I'm trying to create a 3D CAD version of this as accurate as I can get it. Here are few pics of what's been done so far but need the dimensions for the parts that are colored in red.

    FYI I'm still in the process of modifying the body & grip indentations and markings and other details to match.

    DL-44-Red.png DL44-Project-001.png DL-44-Project-003.png DL-44-Project-002.png
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2016
  34. mortifactor

    mortifactor Well-Known Member

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    It is the wrong type of Mauser for the OT DL-44s. Look at the C96 model.


    and kpax, this is fantastic. Love how it was an MGC. It is really a very close replica with the different trigger and hammer. Where do you find mauser parts like this? I've actually only ever seen a real Mauser in a museum.. lol
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2016
  35. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    As Mortifactor said, you have modeled a 712 Mauser like the one used in TFA. I don't have the dims offhand but many are available in the http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=118186 thread.

    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=250942

    Looks like you are off to a great start!
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2016
  36. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Thanks!

    All the MGC parts were modified with a file and Dremel grinder. The hammer is a replica of a real Mauser hammer that I molded in Zamac (the same metal as the frame) I needed to modify the lock work and add the serial number.

    The trigger is the MGC that I reshaped and bent to match the Mauser. I also recut and modified the rear sight notches and numerals as well as the button release knurls and bolt grooves to accurate number of grooves and pattern.

    Thanks for the kind words!

     
  37. Moet1919

    Moet1919 Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey Kpax, could you email me I have a couple questions ask you about your DL-44. Email me at kiehlcharley@gmail.com please!! Thanks
     
  38. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Hey Moet, Can you PM me the questions. It will be easier to access. thanks.
     
  39. mptachenko

    mptachenko Active Member

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    Beautiful work! Thanks for the pictures. I have used these a lot for reference and I am about to use them some more. I am working on a live fire build at the moment and I am about ready to do some weathering. Did you have any special tools or techniques you used? Or was it more or less being deliberate and patient. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
     
  40. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Thanks for looking!

    Really just 0000 steel wool, scotchbrite does the best. Just go slow. The wear should be in logical areas wear there would be rubbing contact with holster or would contact if you lay the gun down. The high spots.

    You can always add more bluing or paint if you go too far. Blue on -blue off. Several layers work best. If it's a realistic, used looking blaster, the more you beat it up the better.

    For the crossbar detail pattern, I think someone posted a printable pattern.

    In reality, the "damage" pattern is from removing the scope mount from the crossbar. As you slide the mount forward, the edges of the rear of the mount gouge the crossbar to create the long scratches. The center thumb screw causes the middle damage.

    For the live fire I'd look at Scottjua's builds. He's the live fire master. There are a few mods you may need to do to get it to cycle correctly.
     
  41. H0llyw00d

    H0llyw00d Sr Member

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    Thanks, kpax...glad to see you're still with us, brother...
     
  42. mptachenko

    mptachenko Active Member

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    I studied many of Scottjua's posts before I ever got started. I opened a new thread here several months back when I began and I was quite appreciative when he found my posting and interjected along the way. My DL-44 is up and running now and I am just waiting for Todd's Costumes to finish their run of scopes. It has turned out quite good and I figured I would start weathering while wait. Thanks for your help.
     
  43. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    What mount do you have? I don't know what Todd's are like or made of. You should email Scott about the mounts and function. When full loaded with the parts, FH and bull barrel, the extra weight throws off the cycle and the mounts can break if you don't have a steel one.



     
  44. mptachenko

    mptachenko Active Member

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    Todd's scope mount is all steel. Scott concurred that mount is one of the strongest out there. So far while waiting for the scope, I have run over 50 rounds through my gun with the bull barrel and flash hider mounted with no reliability issues. I went with DEC steel bull barrel and the aluminum flash hider. Here is a link to the thread I started if you are interested.

    http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=263703
     
  45. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    Thanks, I'll be watching with great interest...
     
  46. scottjua

    scottjua Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The harmonic and balance change with the mount and scope one, and the recoil changes. It does effect cycling... or at least it has on a couple of the ones I've done.
     
  47. mptachenko

    mptachenko Active Member

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    Argh! Then it looks like I might have more "fun" to look forward to. I was thinking that since the scope mounted on the receiver it would not mess with how the upper mechanically cycled during firing. If I got it reliable with the bull barrel and flash hider I would have thought it would be reliable with scope mounted but that makes sense about the harmonics being disturbed when the scope is mounted. Harmonic frequencies are a factor in accuracy in many cases. I have done a lot of Bullseye shooting and worked up certain loads taking barrel vibrations into effect. There is even one gun that I have a device mounted that puts adjustable pressure on the barrel so as to tune the frequency of the vibrations to increase accuracy. This project has been full of twists and turns and roadblocks. As I looked ahead at the build I imagined it more straight forward and already tried to avoid and solve certain problems in advance. This process has turned out to be more enigmatic than expected and I am not even done yet. This gun never actually existed as a working firearm so I guess I should not be too surprised. Old metal, metal to thin to tap or weld, not enough room internally to mount things, cycling issues, bending or breaking parts that cant take the strain, things blowing off and not holding, a barrel sleeve that wont stay in place and seems intent on destroying itself, uncommon outdated ammo, trying not to destroy an existing pistol while turning it into a plasma blaster that runs on tibanna gas. What other problems have I forgotten from mine and other builds? Now I am just rambling because it is 3AM. Anyway, it has been and will undoubtedly continue to be a wonderful adventure of discovery! We will see what happens next in the journey.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2016
  48. H0llyw00d

    H0llyw00d Sr Member

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    I know it's rarely able to be a consideration, but I would highly recommend converting a 9mm rather than 7.63 x 25mm pistol. Much lower compression and hence recoil to factor, which I believe causes the majority of issues with a DL-44 conversion. The 7.63 x 25mm is a very hot load. Essentially a necked-down rifle cartridge.
     
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  49. H0llyw00d

    H0llyw00d Sr Member

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    Which is ironic... because Han's blaster was supposed to be a sawed-off blaster rifle...:)
     
  50. mptachenko

    mptachenko Active Member

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    I wonder if hand loading the 7.63 with a lighter powder charge and heavier bullet would increase reliability? The 9mm Luger typically runs a 115gr-147gr bullet where as the 7.63 runs around 88gr. You could maybe find a sweet spot in the harmonic frequency of the cycling. As if the project is not complex enough! Ha!!
     
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