HalloweenCostumes.com "Back to the Future 2 Light Up Shoes"

[MrSouthpaw]

You will need a 2 part mold to make life easier.
For the strap slits, you can simply block one side out using a thin layer of tape or something. Doesn't have to be thick, just block out from one side.

When the casting comes out of the mould, you can simply cut that slit out, since it would be thin it would be very easy.

I made my own buckle from scratch and did a 2 part mold, came out pretty well, but i will be going back and modifying it further.

Okay, the inside of the curve is flat, so I suppose I'd tape there. Any kind of tape or something specific? I typically use painters tape as a catch-all when crafting stuff.

How about dealing with the buckles curvature? Do I just form a curved mold with the putty, and form another curved half for the top?

And I appreciate the advice so far, thank you.

 

[airair]

Okay, the inside of the curve is flat, so I suppose I'd tape there. Any kind of tape or something specific? I typically use painters tape as a catch-all when crafting stuff.

How about dealing with the buckles curvature? Do I just form a curved mold with the putty, and form another curved half for the top?

And I appreciate the advice so far, thank you.

I think since the slit is quite small, a small strong piece of duct tape should be ok on the iner side to block it off.
You could use painters tape or just normal clear tape (if thick enough). As long as its securely stuck down, it should be fine.
I did it on my original attempt.

I did a 2 part mold, kind of half way over the front. I had to use lots of clay to make a split line.

I used some polyurethane rubber to cast, i can't remember the shore hardness, but they came out nice, but i didn't add any UV protectant in the casting liquid, so its now sort of yellowed over time!

here are some pics when they came out fresh out of the silicone mold. I'm gong to do a better improved version soon since that was of one of my first attempts at molding.
These were made in clay first from scratch, and have a perfect shape to them like the original movie/2011 version.
I will be fine tuning them to make a perfect version in the next few months, just never get round to doing it!

 

[MrSouthpaw]

I think since the slit is quite small, a small strong piece of duct tape should be ok on the iner side to block it off.
You could use painters tape or just normal clear tape (if thick enough). As long as its securely stuck down, it should be fine.
I did it on my original attempt.

I did a 2 part mold, kind of half way over the front. I had to use lots of clay to make a split line.

I used some polyurethane rubber to cast, i can't remember the shore hardness, but they came out nice, but i didn't add any UV protectant in the casting liquid, so its now sort of yellowed over time!

here are some pics when they came out fresh out of the silicone mold. I'm gong to do a better improved version soon since that was of one of my first attempts at molding.
These were made in clay first from scratch, and have a perfect shape to them like the original movie/2011 version.
I will be fine tuning them to make a perfect version in the next few months, just never get round to doing it!


http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii495/airair1989/buckle12.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii495/airair1989/buckle13.jpg

Those look pretty good for an initial attempt.

Personally, I just want extras so I don't need to worry about destroying them if I mess up.

The funny thing is, I read through the productive parts of the old "Nike Mag knockoff" (V1) topic. It's like I'm copying everyone's moves a year behind. I was even considering trying to make a cast of the sole before wearing them....lol.

If putty ends up working about like I think it will, I should be able to manage making a mold. Probably make an arch out of kydex or whatever else I got around, lay out some putty, press the buckle down and try to get a nice edge. Then when it cures put down the top half. If it all works right, I should be able to pour resin through the buckle hump at the top of the mold and then let it run down into the slit areas which would be at the bottom of the mold. I'll just need to make sure I can sand or smooth the casting material so my buckle hump doesn't retain any flashing.

 

[FreddyTV]

I went to the fabric store and found some white faux leather vinyl for $17 a yard - passed on it since I wasn't sure if that was a good price or not. All I want to do is replace the HC straps with some white stitch less vinyl.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

I went to the fabric store and found some white faux leather vinyl for $17 a yard - passed on it since I wasn't sure if that was a good price or not. All I want to do is replace the HC straps with some white stitch less vinyl.

That sounds pricey. I paid about $3.50 for a half-yard at Hobby Lobby. Pure white vinyl.

View attachment 416428


View attachment 416429

The strap was thrown together as a proof of concept. Don't mind the crude cuts or misapplied NIKE logo.

I haven't actually made a full velcro-bearing strap yet, so I don't know how this stuff functions when actually put on the shoe. It is thinner than the vinyl on the shoe already, and a little stretchy. But it did firm up pretty well when I glued two pieces together, so I'm going to at least try and make a full strap out of it and see how it wears.

 

[airair]

Those look pretty good for an initial attempt.

Personally, I just want extras so I don't need to worry about destroying them if I mess up.

The funny thing is, I read through the productive parts of the old "Nike Mag knockoff" (V1) topic. It's like I'm copying everyone's moves a year behind. I was even considering trying to make a cast of the sole before wearing them....lol.

If putty ends up working about like I think it will, I should be able to manage making a mold. Probably make an arch out of kydex or whatever else I got around, lay out some putty, press the buckle down and try to get a nice edge. Then when it cures put down the top half. If it all works right, I should be able to pour resin through the buckle hump at the top of the mold and then let it run down into the slit areas which would be at the bottom of the mold. I'll just need to make sure I can sand or smooth the casting material so my buckle hump doesn't retain any flashing.

Well they are more or less 95% accurate to the movie/2011 ankle piece. Just need a few adjustments to make them better and lighter.
They are better than the V2/HC ankle pieces which are way too flat.
The curved bulge (lol sounds a bit indecent!) makes the difference from the side and back profiles.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Well they are more or less 95% accurate to the movie/2011 ankle piece. Just need a few adjustments to make them better and lighter.
They are better than the V2/HC ankle pieces which are way too flat.
The curved bulge (lol sounds a bit indecent!) makes the difference from the side and back profiles.

Yeah, I saw that. They even have the dual indentation at the bottom ridge.

I'm not sure buckle-hump sounds any better...lol.

 

[mitchvanhalen]

on the HC versions has anyone slimmed down the toe and the ribbing with any sort of success?

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Yes, on page 6 first post. Chrisguyver did one on his shoes.

He didn't go into detail though, just instructing to view the Youtube tutorials and a warning that the HC shoes is not the same as the V2 under the toe. He didn't elaborate how they were different, at least not that I saw.

There's also another HC thread about mods that I'll link to, but I consider this one the primary HC topic and it's where I'll be making my posts.

http://www.therpf.com/f24/halloween-costumes-air-mag-conversion-228319/

 

[MrSouthpaw]

After midnight tonight........

 

[OUTATIME1978]

just picked this up for the NIKE strap as thought it was a close match alternative to El on my HC mags, will post a pic when I get it!!

 

[OUTATIME1978]

View attachment 420966 just picked this up as thought it was a close match alternative to El on my HC mags, will post a pic when I get it!!

Ooh double post dam phones!!

 

[MrSouthpaw]

View attachment 420966 just picked this up for the NIKE strap as thought it was a close match alternative to El on my HC mags, will post a pic when I get it!!

Is that glow in the dark tape?

 

[OUTATIME1978]

Yes mate, only place I found it was on eBay Australia, it looks just like the El colourway to me :thumbsup

 

[FreddyTV]

Yeah I'm hunting for some GITD sheet or tape too.

Do any of you guys know in what thread the printable NIKE sheet file is in - can't find it.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Yes mate, only place I found it was on eBay was in Australia, it looks just like the El colourway to me :thumbsup

Interesting, the color looks identical to my glow-paint.

Did you see the pics on page 8?

Yeah I'm hunting for some GITD sheet or tape too.

Do any of you guys know in what thread the printable NIKE sheet file is in - can't find it.

http://www.therpf.com/f9/nike-mag-v2-mod-discussion-page-58-shopping-list-171951/index200.html

Scroll down til you see it. Black sheet, white lettering.

Go to a print shop, have them print it on a transparency with a laser printer.

Now the problem is if you just do this directly as it's formatted, the toner-side of the print will be exposed due to the letter orientation. Toner scratches easy. If you print it mirrored then you can flip it around, the toner will be inside protected, and the shiny side outside.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Oh, I forgot to add.

FreddyTV, since you're in the USA. If you really want Glow in the dark then you should consider a place called Glow Inc. They sell the strongest stuff I could find, comes in water or solvent based paint, and powders. I used water-based, since I didn't know how solvent paint would react with a vinyl strap. Water-worked fine, just gotta let it cure for 24 hours.

Check out page 8 to get an idea of how to proceed.

Ultra-Blue is their color that matches the Mag aqua EL color.

If you do use their stuff, get another blank transparent sheet and place it between the logo toner and the dried glow paint. The dried paint is slightly abrasive and would easily rip the toner off from the inside.

 

[FreddyTV]

Interesting, the color looks identical to my glow-paint.

Did you see the pics on page 8?



http://www.therpf.com/f9/nike-mag-v2-mod-discussion-page-58-shopping-list-171951/index200.html

Scroll down til you see it. Black sheet, white lettering.

Go to a print shop, have them print it on a transparency with a laser printer.

Now the problem is if you just do this directly as it's formatted, the toner-side of the print will be exposed due to the letter orientation. Toner scratches easy. If you print it mirrored then you can flip it around, the toner will be inside protected, and the shiny side outside.

Hope that makes sense.

Yes it makes perfect sense - thank you for the advice. I might also leave the letter transparent instead of white so I can slide a GITD sheet behind them. Now my worry is finding a print shop that will be willing to do it for me. They might give me a hard time cause of the NIKE logo.

Thanms again.

 

[FreddyTV]

Oh, I forgot to add.

FreddyTV, since you're in the USA. If you really want Glow in the dark then you should consider a place called Glow Inc. They sell the strongest stuff I could find, comes in water or solvent based paint, and powders. I used water-based, since I didn't know how solvent paint would react with a vinyl strap. Water-worked fine, just gotta let it cure for 24 hours.

Check out page 8 to get an idea of how to proceed.

Ultra-Blue is their color that matches the Mag aqua EL color.

If you do use their stuff, get another blank transparent sheet and place it between the logo toner and the dried glow paint. The dried paint is slightly abrasive and would easily rip the toner off from the inside.

Did you ever finish the new straps for your HC Mags? Curious to see them.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

Yes it makes perfect sense - thank you for the advice. I might also leave the letter transparent instead of white so I can slide a GITD sheet behind them. Now my worry is finding a print shop that will be willing to do it for me. They might give me a hard time cause of the NIKE logo.

Thanms again.

Yes, you absolutely need to keep the letters transparent. The glow effect would be too muted without it. Most glow-things turn white enough when uncharged, so you don't need to be concerned about painting the letters white.

I got mine done at Office Depot. I was just straight-up honest about what I was doing. Making some Back to the Future shoes for a costume/my amusement. When they hear that, they were fine with it. I had pictures loaded up on my smartphone to show them too.