Green Ranger Dragon Dagger Help!

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by zoicno, Apr 28, 2012.

  1. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    I am trying to make the Green Ranger Dragon Dagger... but i am stuck at the Blade part... i am not really sure how to make it....

    In the linkara green ranger dagger tutorial..
    Green Ranger Dagger Tutorial

    the women that explain what she did... said it so fast... and didn't really show step by step what she did ... so i can't tell what she did..

    CAn someone explain to me step by step how to make the blade?
     
  2. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    Styrene Sheet?

    I am trying to make the green ranger dagger but i can't seem to find Styrene Sheet or Epoxy Putty anywhere.. i went to home depot, Lowes and Michaels.

    Does anyone know where to find them? I have been following this video on how to make it... maybe i missed something in there?
    Epoxy Put
    Atop the Fourth Wall: Green Ranger Dragon Dagger Prop Tutorial
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  3. MrBugSlayer

    MrBugSlayer Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  4. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Styrene Sheet?

    Check local sign companies. They go through sheet plastic like crazy, and you may even get some scraps free
     
  5. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    Re: Styrene Sheet?

    I am not 100% sure wut type of Styrene Sheet i need... they never clearly said in the video... and there are like alot of different ones (saw these sites when i was googleing around MrBugSlayer)
     
  6. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Styrene Sheet?

    How do you work with it as well? Id love to know the kinds and tools needed as well. Can this thread be for styrine newbies? Lol:facepalm
     
  7. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    I have no idea how it works lol... hopfuly someone will say how
     
  8. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It's just thin plastic sheeting. You can get it in varying thicknesses. You can cut it with a hobby knife, bend and shape it with heat, and sand it with paper or a dremel...
     
  9. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    none of the stores i went to say they have it... is there another name they go by?
     
  10. Linkara

    Linkara New Member

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    Well, since this is my tutorial, I can help a little bit.

    The bad news is that from what I've seen, styrene is not really something you find in craft stores or the like. There's a post above that explains some online places to get it.

    As an alternative, while not made of plastic and therefore not quite as sturdy, posterboard would work as a covering for the dagger.
     
  11. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    Linkara Do you think stencil sheet will work? ( when i was in craft store they said this is the closes thing they have)

    ... also... the video never said what glue u used to glue everything together? (like did she use hot glue to glue the blade stuff together) do you just use hot glue to glue everything?

    and lastly did she use Marine Tex Epoxy Putty? The video never said which type of Epoxy Putty you used.. so that is my best guess?
     
  12. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Zoinco, the important thing to remember in making ANY prop is that there is never just one way to make anything. It should come down to what materials you are personally most comfortable with.

    While Linkara and the Prop Lady may have used posterboard, foamcore, and styrene, personally, I would rather make a flat blade in the shape of the overall blade out of styrene and build Apoxie Sculpt up on top of it to get the shape and detailing of the blade right. Someone else might make the blade out of foam, others might make it out of paper and pour casting resin inside, still others might sculpt it separately out of clay and mold it and cast it to make a resin copy of it.

    There are a million-and-one ways to make every prop, start playing around with techniques, and soon you'll see which ones work best for you...and THAT should be the method you use.

    And if you want a cheap, easy source of styrene: go to Home Depot and buy some of their "for sale" signs usually put in car/house windows.

    -Nick

    PS: When in doubt, Gorilla Glue is always a good glue to try first. The stuff will stick just about anything to just about anything else.
     
  13. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    Ok i finally found Styrene Sheet But i still don't know what type of Epoxy Putty was used? the only ones i can find in store are the stick ones and they don't look like the ones that were in the video at all... and the stick ones are alot of money..
     
  14. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Once again, don't feel like you have to follow the tutorial exactly. Find things that work for you!

    Try using Apoxie Sculpt. It's a two part, air hardening clay, that can be shaped and sanded with wood-working tools when cured.

    Just start experimenting. If you expect to get things perfect the first time around, you'll be disappointed. Every prop is a learning experience. We ALL mess up, it's about learning lessons so that you can keep improving as your progress.

    -Nick
     
  15. Linkara

    Linkara New Member

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    What the good Mr. Fox said. A lot of this stuff is just trial and error and experimenting around. I will say that a lot of hot glue was used for some parts of it, but hot glue is not always the best adhesive for some situations.

    If you're dedicated to trying to make it the same way, I'm sorry to say I don't recall the name of the epoxy putty (mostly because it was the Prop Lady's stuff and not mine, never can get epoxy putty to work right for me), so it'd probably be best to go with NickFox's recommendation.
     
  16. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just to jump off of this quickly, one of the more interesting applications of hot glue, is to run a bead of it over the surface of your prop and paint over it once cooled to create interesting surface effects like some of the small embellishments on the handle of the dagger.

    One of these days, I've got to get around to attempting a Dragon Dagger of my own.

    Zoicno, good luck with this project. The best advise anyone ever gave me was just to get started. If you run into issues once you start, it's that much easier to help you so we can see what you're good at and what you've already done. Consider it prop-making GPS. It's easier to tell you the next turn you should take, than trying to tell you all of the turns in the beginning and hope you remember them all.

    Can't wait to see your progress!

    -Nick
     
  17. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    Hm.. well i made the blade part... but i realize i did it wrong -__-...

    [​IMG]

    ( i took it off of the pvc pipe part since i need to re do the whole thing anyways)

    and i know it should look like this

    [​IMG]

    I am not really sure what i did wrong... or i guess more like how i should make the blade part where the Styrene part will meet in the middle...
     
  18. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    In the video is the first step to cut out just the body and not the edge of the blade and then glue poster board on it? or is it... cut the shap of the whole blade (including the edge?) ... i am so confused...
     
  19. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    In the video, it appears that they used a piece of posterboard as a guide. (Linkara, feel free to correct this)

    The posterboard was cut to shape and glued to the center of the main shaft. Then, thin strips of foam core board were glued on either side of the poster board, touching the shaft, in order to give some dimension to the center of the blade. A single piece of styrene was put on the top as well as the bottom, and the edges glued together, coming to a point. Because there was foam core board against the shaft, it lifted the center of it, creating the shape of the blade.

    Then they just refined the shape from there.

    I'm glad you took the leap though. Just getting out there and trying things out really is the best way to learn.

    Keep going!

    -Nick
     
  20. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    So another mest up...

    [​IMG]

    this hotglue thing and... guessing ... is not turning out very good...

    and Fox ... this is the first time i done anything like this... and i am unemployed right now...

    and i never used Apoxie Sculpt or any type of at less this level of sculpting/Putty before...

    I don't really have that much money to be able to spend if i can't make it work after a few times... (thoguh from the blade thing it seems like i may have to end up trying it your way, cuss ... well i already did it twice and is to much guessing games for me...)
     
  21. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have to say, that is definitely a leap forward from your first attempt! You can definitely see the blade start to emerge.

    Let's see if we can salvage some of that build for you. Can I ask why the tip wouldn't stick together? It looks like theres some glue in there, but from that picture it's a little hard to tell why it pulled apart.

    Every build, especially early ones have issue like this. It's a pain, but if you do what I call "debriefing" (Basically figuring out what didn't work and why) I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to get your final dagger on the next pass.

    If you are still interested in looking at other ways of making this after debriefing, I'd be more than happy to help. And I'll do my best to help you work within your budget too. We've ALL been there. Half the fun of making props is trying to get creative with your materials.

    I just hope Linkara doesn't mind me leading the charge here.

    -Nick
     
  22. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    ^ What The RPF is all about right there! :thumbsup
     
  23. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    um is not sticking cuss the tip is to far out from each other... i don't know a good way to make a good measurement ... to make the two pieces the same and be able to meet in the middle... ( i used a form board in the middle.... so that is why is hard..cuss i don't think using poster board in the middle is possible for it to be hard...) .i also put these 16 g wires on the tip of the blade inside (they did that in the video) ... i did take it off of one side of the blade so i was able to make most of the blade touch but.. i guess i should just not have any wires.. i am guessing they should touch then...
    (i am guessing i may need to explain more...but yea..)

    (slide note... as a kid i always wanted to make stuff... cuss my parents hardly bought me the toys i wanted.... but of course most of it ..was out of paper... spry painting... paper row stuff... ping pong balls ( made obi-wan epz 1-2 light saber from that) so in that since i did make stuff before but of course.. [ also made... a power ranger cheats piece before cutting it from clear plastic... spry painting it.. and putting wires to hold up the shoulder parts] (stuff like that before) but of course none of these stuff is really... i guess look good... or real... but now i kinda want to make stuff look more real... and not just .. u know stuff kids can make...
     
  24. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That's how I got my start here...in fact, I'd say a good number of the people here got their start in the same way. It's all about making our inner child proud of how cool we've become. :lol

    If you have a heat gun, you may want to see if you can use that to help you bend the styrene together at the tip. Wear gloves though, just to be safe. It's a heat-formable product so it may be just what the doctor ordered.

    No heat gun? Turn on your stove (Medium-low heat should work) and hold it about 7-8 inches above the flame/element, then see if you can coax the two sides together that way. Again, wear gloves and don't set the dagger down on any materials or surfaces you can't afford to damage until it's totally cool. Do it in short bursts over the heat, building slowly until you become familiar with how the material handles under heat.

    If that doesn't work, I'm ready and waiting to help you prep your Plan B. :)

    Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

    -Nick
     
  25. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    I think the wires were making it uneven... on both sides... so i am gonna re make it.. with out the wires.. and hopefully make it so the two sheets can evenly touch...
     
  26. Linkara

    Linkara New Member

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    No, no, please go right ahead. ^_^ I'm still pretty much an amateur, myself, I just know people who have taught me a lot, so your advice is going to be more helpful, anyway.
     
  27. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    i think this is the closes i am going to get it.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    from the video i think Linkara/prop lady used two layers of Styrene Sheet (and has a hole edge thing on the blade) but i think putting... another layer with hot glue is has to high of a error for me to be able to make it work with out messing up...

    i am having alittle bit of problem sanding it down ..cuss the hot glue is being flayly...

    i guess i need to look up a Epoxy Putty now ... which iono the only ones i can find are the stick kind and they close like 8$ a pop... and it looks like i would need like around 3 of them to be able to make it... (also sines Linkara said he himself had problems using it... en... kinda scrayed about that part lol -__- )

    (btw... i have film some videos before..and edited them... i also have a 2d animation certificate... guess i am saying.. i have done art.. stuff..over the years just not prop making... )
     
  28. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    WOW! Big improvement. If you haven't already, you may want to try running a razor blade or utility knife around the edge to clean off the scraps of hot glue, then hitting it with some Bondo spot putty (Amazon.com: 3M/Bondo 4.5Oz Glazin Spot Putty 907 Auto Body Repair Material: Automotive) around over the seam between the two sides, then sand the faces of the blade, more spot putty, sand, spot putty, sand, until you get the look you're going for.

    Seriously, that is a 100% improvement from your first attempt. Great job.

    They say the devil is in the details, so take your time. If the rest of it comes out like that blade, and you put your time into it, I know you'll have a great piece you can really be proud of!

    Also, a good thing to note is that hot glue can be reheated indefinitely. So if you need to smooth an area out you can always try that.

    I've been able to make fairly smooth cuts in it using nothing but a pocket knife and a barbecue lighter before, just just holding the blade over the flame and cutting into the glue immediately....then reheating the blade as needed.

    Same here! I'd still probably be making things out of Papier-mâché and gum if no one had ever shown me better ways. :lol

    -Nick
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2012
  29. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    what is Bondo spot putty?
     
  30. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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  31. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Bondo Spot Putty is used for patching seams and small divots/imperfections. I was just recommending it as a way to smooth out your outer seam between the two blade sides.

    If you're already thinking about spending $14, you probably want to investigate Apoxie Sculpt. 1lb of it is $15+shipping online, and if you can find it locally will probably be about $20.

    And 1lb should be enough, 4oz I'm not so sure of.

    -Nick
     
  32. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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  33. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Apoxie Sculpt is a two part clay. When you combine parts A and B it begins to chemically harden. It gives you a couple hours working time with it. After 24 hours it is completely solid and can be shaped and sanded like wood. You can also do a lot of detailing work during its 2 hour pot life, especially once it becomes a bit harder.

    While its still workable, you can smooth it out by wetting your finger with water and rubbing the piece.

    If you've ever used clay...or even PlayDoh, you'll find it to be a very comfortable material to work in. Since you just shape it by hand, it's much more intuitive in forming 3D shapes than styrene.

    -Nick

    EDIT: just as I finished typing this, my latest order of Apoxie Sculpt was delivered.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2012
  34. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    how much in total is the Apoxie Sculpt plus shipping? and how long does it take for them to ship it to you
     
  35. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I got mine straight from Aves, I ordered it about 3 days ago. I think shipping was $13. But once again, you're getting 1lb of it.

    Try calling hobby stores around you. You may be able to find some without having to pay shipping on it that way.

    There's anoter product called "Magic Sculpt" which is basically the same thing. ( Magic Sculp ) I'm not sure what shipping is on it, but you may be able to find it elsewhere a little bit cheaper.

    Check online and check locally. See what you can find.

    -Nick
     
  36. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    man the hotglue came off of the edge part (kinda like how it looked like before..) ..what should i use to make it stick
     
  37. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    I had to end up using Epoxy glue.. that was pretty messy..on the edge but at less most likley it will hold... with out problem... and i finally found Apoxie Sculpt around an hour drive ( would be worst if i when traffic hours but i am jobless so) ... to N Hollywood... tell me what you think so far... i feel like i would have done better... but... iono [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  38. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    WOW! That looks incredible. I mean, it's really impressive to think that not too long ago, this is what your first attempt at the dagger looked like:

    And now look at what you currently have.

    How's the Apoxie Sculpt treating you so far? Have you had a chance to try tooling/sanding it after it's hardened yet?

    Keep up the awesome work, you'll be done this puppy in no time.

    And be honest...have you tried playing with it yet? I know that's what I'd be doing at this stage; jumping around, pretending to be the Green Ranger. :lol

    -Nick
     
  39. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    don't u need to wait like 24 hours for it to harden? or how long do u wait?.. and ... well i need to soon so... what type of paints do you use? ... i recall Linkara said something about model paints. in the video.. but i am not sure where to buy that stuff... or how much i would need...
     
  40. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It hardens completely in 24 hours, yep, I just wasn't sure when you had applied it.

    You can also work with it before it's fully hardened to add in detail lines and such with something as simple as a butter knife. But, if you're looking to sand it or use woodworking tools, 24 hours is the magic number.

    As for the paints, you can use a variety of different things. Spray paint and model paint are two of the more popular options. In either case just make sure you prime and sand, then prime and sand your surfaces first to smooth out slight imperfections and so the paint has a good surface to bite down on.

    -Nick
     
  41. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    So in the video linkara used dryed out marker caps for some of the detailing... but i don't think i have any of that... and i don't have the long one shape marker cap anyways.... what else can i use?
     
  42. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just start digging through your trash or your junk drawer and see what you can find that you can repurpose. And if all else fails, just use Apoxie Sculpt to make the shapes. There's no exact science to any of this, experiment and see what happens.

    -Nick
     
  43. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    is there a reason why he painted it black first before he put the details in?
     
  44. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    En so i just put the primer on.. and it has alot of like stuff on it... and is kinda graney... it comes off on my hand even after is dry to... did i just get the wrong primer? ( i used a spray paint) or am i doing something wrong?
     
  45. TheNickFox

    TheNickFox Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Check to see if your primer is made for plastics.

    -Nick
     
  46. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    yea i ralize it was not.. and i jsut want and bought one for plastic... but now i need to take forever using a razer or somethign to take off the panit.... ( is the ones for outdoor.. wood /steel.. the one that has texter on it..).... do u have any better idea of how i can take it off?
     
  47. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    sand paper is not really working ... cuss is to thick..
     
  48. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    ok now i feel so dumb... i just bought paint removering to remove it from the brushs.. not sure why i dind't try using it till 4 hours after trying to sand it off
     
  49. The9thWonder

    The9thWonder Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I need to add this prop to my long list of items I need to make
     
  50. zoicno

    zoicno Member

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    So i put on a different primer.. and is alittle bit grinny when u hold it.... is it support to be like taht or did i bought another one that is wrong?.. cuss i know i used normal black spray paint on something else before and... that thing does not feel like that at all there is no grind to it at all... but that spray paint is not a primer...

    (basily is not smooth... is primer... not smooth?)
     

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