Graphite Powder Discussion

The Prop Lord

Well-Known Member
I was introduced to the amazing ability that graphite powder has on a slightly tacky yet smooth and glossy surface. Near perfect chrome like finish.

I have scoured the internet to see if there are alternative materials that have the same effect. Which not much luck. I have a bunch of different "metallic" Mica Powders from Smooth-On that I tried for the heck of it. No luck. On a glossy mold, they come out decently metallic. But nothing as close as Graphite Powder's reflective properties.

It would be great to find another powder that we can just rub into place. That already comes out "metallic." Anyone know of anything?

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If you don't know. The basic idea is that you apply graphite powder to a mostly dry painted surface. Then gently buff it out while packing more powder in.
 
I e had good luck in the past on smaller parts with the “buffing metalizer” paints. I think they were model master brand. Air brush on and polish with a cotton ball.

What I like about them is you can make a plastic aircraft look like polished aluminum. I never tried anything really big.

And regarding the graphite powder; I know different sizes exist. I have some older stuff that is very fine which comes out shinier than newer stuff I have that is more coarse. I use it to dry- lubricate o-rings and the fine stuff makes the o-rings look like metal.
 
The trouble is the fact that the graphite rubs off easily and leaves fingerprints. I haven't found a good coating that will preserve the Lustre, and not react with the graphite. If anyone has some suggestions I would appreciate it.

TazMan2000
 
I used Rub n Buff on a Jango helmet build. It is a wax product. Get your surface as smooth as possible and then rub it onto the surface. It will not hide imperfections. When you rub it, rub it hard. The friction heat from your hand is key to getting a good finish. It will wash off your hands with soap and water. Use it sparingly, a little goes a long way, and to much will not give you good results. Once the wax hardens, it will not come off to the touch. If your prep is good you will get a shiny reflective surface. No top coat necessary. It can be buffed up if needed to bring back the luster over time. Avoid high heat as it is a wax.
 
Granted my stuff is on a small scale (scale models) but graphite is my go to. I paint the part in a Tamiya metallic shade like gunmetal or aluminum , then scrape some off of a stick (I don't use the powdered version in a tube), and rub it on with my finger. I know it's not good for me, but I don't lick my fingers and I wash my hands thoroughly afterwards. I've tried with a brush, q-tip, and burnishing tool and I don't get the same effects. The best I've figured out is the oils on my fingers help really work it into the surface and give it the natural used and handled look.

After I've done this I have never noticed fingerprints or the like. But, like I said my stuff is small scale so take it with a grain of salt. I don't know how well it would scale up.
 
Oh. On the note or fingerprints I haven’t had any issues using Color Max paint by Krylon

I have also WASHED the parts off under a sink in the kitchen to remove excess powder.
DO NOT wash for 1-2 days. The powder will rinse off.
The parts in my video have already been cleaned off. No residue or fingerprints. The paint cures fairly hard. So I haven’t noticed any intentions. At all.
 
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I’ve heard this stuff is very good:

EDIT: site won’t let me direct link product. Search for graphite.

 
Oh. On the note or fingerprints I haven’t had any issues using Color Max paint by Krylon

I have also WASHED the parts off under a sink in the kitchen to remove excess powder.
DO NOT wash for 1-2 days. The powder will rinse off.
The parts in my video have already been cleaned off. No residue or fingerprints. The paint cures fairly hard. So I haven’t noticed any intentions. At all.
So quick question about this. Are you using the Krylon paint as a base and rubbing the powder on while it's still wet, dry, or do you mean a Krylon clear coat after. I am gearing up for a repaint of my Hasbro Legends Stormbreaker and was leaning heavily towards graphite and a clear coat dulling it doesnt bother me cause to me nothing on Stormbreaker appears REALLY shiny. Thanks for any help
 
I must recount my statement about the finish wearing off. It does eventually.
So far as my process, let the krylon base color dry almost completely. As in, if you press it hard enough it captures your fingerprint lines.

Once it is at that point, rub in the graphite powder.

I can’t afford the 2K spray so I’ll be sealing mine with shellac I think. It’s close enough.

I’m reprinting and vacuum forming the parts for an even smoother surface. Then I’ll paint and buff with graphite.
 
I must recount my statement about the finish wearing off. It does eventually.
So far as my process, let the krylon base color dry almost completely. As in, if you press it hard enough it captures your fingerprint lines.

Once it is at that point, rub in the graphite powder.

I can’t afford the 2K spray so I’ll be sealing mine with shellac I think. It’s close enough.

I’m reprinting and vacuum forming the parts for an even smoother surface. Then I’ll paint and buff with graphite.
Aaaah ok. Definitely look forward to any update. Still mulling things over how the best way to go is. Contemplating the graphite powder, iron paste, rub and buff, spray paint or even trying my hand at airbrushing.
 
Just posted this over in the SW section:


This nail polish powder worked really well! I've bought some larger bags (500g) and if those work well, I'll post up the links as a long-term solution to the old gold/chrome finish problem.
 

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