Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

[ichnob]

Hey, these are 4-40. I'm not sure what their length is though.


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TCSS only has one listing for a 4-40 buttonhead screw.

*adds to wishlist*

Many thanks!

 

[skynet23]

Some pics of my Graflex 2.0 build.

 

[paplooo]

I cant wait to start mine..Ive been searching for pieces.. now is time to get them .! thanks for the inspiration guys !

 

[H0llyw00d]

Some pics of my Graflex 2.0 build.

Is that a custom crystal chamber paired with a NBv3 and Goth Knight chassis? Very nice build, man!

 

[ForceSensitvAL]

These look interesting! Looks like the Graflex Shop has some buttons that may work in the existing 2.0 thumbscrew parts. It's just the red button part, and it has an edge that I assume would keep it from falling out?

 

[ARKM]

These look interesting! Looks like the Graflex Shop has some buttons that may work in the existing 2.0 thumbscrew parts. It's just the red button part, and it has an edge that I assume would keep it from falling out?

View attachment 654150

Yeah from what their website states, it will fit the vintage/Parks v1 buttons as well. Maybe that means they will also work in the Romans Empire buttons as well (though I think those come complete).

 

[skynet23]

Is that a custom crystal chamber paired with a NBv3 and Goth Knight chassis? Very nice build, man!

Thanks, yeah a Goth chassis, same chamber but I cut most of the inner part out.

 

[H0llyw00d]

Would you care to reflect on your CC mod?

 

[skynet23]

Here's a nice little mod for the side brass pins.

Would you care to reflect on your CC mod?

Sure, its the inner part of a vape tank (aspire atlantis 1).

 

[H0llyw00d]

So sweet, man. Thanks... And, been looking for a half-way decent brass pin mod...yours is far better than half-way decent, thanks for that.

 

[kermet]

Okay been busy working on to many projects just took a bit of time away to cut some brass for my crystal chamber slow but sure. Thanks....Jim

 

[SethS]

So I decided against my general policy of having sabers I didn't convert from flashes myself and ordered up one of these bad boys. The kid loves my Graflex, and would also love a bladed, lit up, full sound saber... and honestly, given the post TFA Graflex love and the fact I've already found one in the wild for cheap ages ago, I doubt I'll get another one.

Also, I've long wanted an ESB version to go next to my ANH. So I plan to change up some of the details where I can to make it look more accurate-- namely using button knobs from the graflex shop instead of the anodized ones, Slothfurnace card, Roy's kobold-- I can ditch the weird stepped beer tab to be an ESB version.

Curious if anyone else has replaced the tine hex screw just below the emitter with a slotted screw like the graflex?

Also, anyone have a suggestion to make the metal look more accurate? It's awfully shiny and I much prefer the nickel-ish look of the original.

That would leave the speaker plate and the faux switch will be the only details that aren't right with a casual glance.

I've never made a wired/sound/light up saber before, so I'm entering a new world there. Need to do more research to figure out what to do there...

 

[cjchiu]

I would suggest joining the Facebook group "Graflex Addicts Support Group". There are lots of 2.0/2.1 owners there who are modding their Graflex to be more accurate. I got a slotted screw replacement from a member there but I cannot remember who at the moment.

Also check out the great YouTube tutorial on putting electronics in a graflex by Shoot2Thrill468
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLc7OLqR4JyCxhENVCg9YrOJA_fYW4Do59

Edit: found the guy with the slotted screws

Also forgot that Khal from KR Sabers has them too...
https://www.etsy.com/listing/448526456/korbanthparks-accurate-graflex-20

 

[SethS]

Awesome-- thank you!

Had I realized Roman's upcoming version was more accurate whereas the 2 was design to incorporate electronics I may have waited... Oh well-- guess that means there's a TFA version in my future too...

 

[tomm1999]

Seth, I replaced the screw with a pretty accurate one but you have the ream the hole for it to sit flush.

I also added a threaded rivet to the bunny ears

View attachment rivet.jpg

So I decided against my general policy of having sabers I didn't convert from flashes myself and ordered up one of these bad boys. The kid loves my Graflex, and would also love a bladed, lit up, full sound saber... and honestly, given the post TFA Graflex love and the fact I've already found one in the wild for cheap ages ago, I doubt I'll get another one.

Also, I've long wanted an ESB version to go next to my ANH. So I plan to change up some of the details where I can to make it look more accurate-- namely using button knobs from the graflex shop instead of the anodized ones, Slothfurnace card, Roy's kobold-- I can ditch the weird stepped beer tab to be an ESB version.

Curious if anyone else has replaced the tine hex screw just below the emitter with a slotted screw like the graflex?

Also, anyone have a suggestion to make the metal look more accurate? It's awfully shiny and I much prefer the nickel-ish look of the original.

That would leave the speaker plate and the faux switch will be the only details that aren't right with a casual glance.

I've never made a wired/sound/light up saber before, so I'm entering a new world there. Need to do more research to figure out what to do there...

- - - Updated - - -

Seth, I replaced the screw with a pretty accurate one but you have the ream the hole for it to sit flush.

I also added a threaded rivet to the bunny ears

View attachment rivet.jpg

So I decided against my general policy of having sabers I didn't convert from flashes myself and ordered up one of these bad boys. The kid loves my Graflex, and would also love a bladed, lit up, full sound saber... and honestly, given the post TFA Graflex love and the fact I've already found one in the wild for cheap ages ago, I doubt I'll get another one.

Also, I've long wanted an ESB version to go next to my ANH. So I plan to change up some of the details where I can to make it look more accurate-- namely using button knobs from the graflex shop instead of the anodized ones, Slothfurnace card, Roy's kobold-- I can ditch the weird stepped beer tab to be an ESB version.

Curious if anyone else has replaced the tine hex screw just below the emitter with a slotted screw like the graflex?

Also, anyone have a suggestion to make the metal look more accurate? It's awfully shiny and I much prefer the nickel-ish look of the original.

That would leave the speaker plate and the faux switch will be the only details that aren't right with a casual glance.

I've never made a wired/sound/light up saber before, so I'm entering a new world there. Need to do more research to figure out what to do there...

 

[cjchiu]

I had shared on another thread, but thought it would be useful here. I have a Vader's Vault 1 inch blade adapter and recently bought a pair of brass tabs from HutchSabers on Etsy. With a little "tiny" elbow grease, they look good as an upgrade to my 2.1 graflex....

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Looks like he did the same as skynet did?

 

[cjchiu]

I honestly don't know how he made his.

 

[SethS]

I don't know how any of you do this! This is uncharted territory for me. I need to find a dummies guide to electronic saber guts. Shoot2thrills videos look to be amazing, but I need some basic knowledge before going in.

 

[cjchiu]

Madcow's beginner tutorials that he did for the Custom Saber Shop is where you want to start...
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_45XUyymAuXCl9WlTzljTNVLGq4F3FKT

Also poking around the Imperial Royal Arms forums would help too...