Glue Recommendation

[Profezzorn]

I'm looking to glue resin prints from a form 2 3d printer. Ideally I'd like something that sticks well, doesn't swell or shrink and can be sanded down to make the seams disappear.
So far I've tried Testors Plastic Cement, which doesn't stick at all. And gorilla glue, which sticks pretty well, but swells up a lot.
Any recommendations?

 

[Helix6187]

2 part epoxy work and can be sanded.

 

[TazMan2000]

Thick CA glue works well too.

TazMan2000

 

[unbuiltnautilus]

You can try mixing talc into your epoxy also. This makes sanding down easier once cured..in fact you may be surprised what can be mixed into epoxy! However, for your needs..talc.

 

[memyselfi]

Zap glue (name brand CA glue), recently purchased some clue called " dynamite " ( DYNK0031 horizon hobby), seems to work just as-well and is cheaper. You can also use baking soda for filler. " Glue the part together, let set, then apply extra glue in small amounts to seems and sprinkle baking soda on ( repeat). Its. naturally heavier than tack powder, I use both it just depend on application.

 

[kwisatz]

I've had a glue question kicking around in my head lately and saw this thread, figured I'd take a shot at asking it here. I've been toying with the idea of making my own display stand / base for some of my Bandai 1/72 Star Wars vehicle models. I'd like to fashion a wooden base but re-use the "arm" portion of the Bandai plastic base that comes with the models. I was thinking about using 60 minute epoxy to glue the plastic "arm" to the wooden base. Furthermore, once the arm is glued into position I'd like to eliminate the gap or seam where the arm meets the wood (kind of like caulking a bath tub or around a window). Possibly some wood filler or some other substance could be applied with a finger and worked into place. Once painted the connection point between the wood and plastic would hopefully be seamless. Appreciate any feedback.

 

[unbuiltnautilus]

If you can produce some fine sawdust from the wood in question, this can be mixed into the epoxy to quite a thick paste. When filed or ground down once dry, it should be a close match to the surrounding timber. Do a test piece first. Drill some holes into a scrap piece of timber and experiment with quantities of sawdust to epoxy. You could save time by using five minute epoxies, these should be more than strong enough for the job.