Gloss or matte better for reflecting light inside a model ?
- Thread starter Ashb1502
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joberg
Legendary Member
I think I'll need more info
You're putting LEDs inside the model to light which part? If it's a cockpit, depending on the type of model (or genre: Sci-Fi, WWII airplane, etc...) you'll have matt finishes in general (especially Sci-Fi). If it's inside a engine bell it would semi-gloss (fumes from the engine for example). If it's to light windows, then you better-off laying aluminum tape inside to reflect you LEDS.
I'm with joberg totally depends on the use. I've always preferred matte white for reflecting light in cockpits. For engines and such, I like to line the insides of the light boxes with aluminum tape (if there is space). In practice, I would argue that the reflective tape doesn't add that much more strength to the light output, but it was helpful as an insulator for hotter bulbs.
I'm building the USS Enterprise, so the interior of the ship will have led strips to cast light out of the many windows and also the warp engines.
From what I've seen white tends to reflect the light better than silver or tape, but I'm reading conflicting things about gloss or matte white
I've read that the gloss wil make the light brighter, but could give more hot spots.
Where as the matte white would absorb some of the light brightness but reflect it more thought the model interior.
From what I've seen white tends to reflect the light better than silver or tape, but I'm reading conflicting things about gloss or matte white
I've read that the gloss wil make the light brighter, but could give more hot spots.
Where as the matte white would absorb some of the light brightness but reflect it more thought the model interior.
WHICH Enterprise? Each design and each kit has its own specific challenges.
The new Strange New World's 1/1000 scale
Richard Baker
Sr Member
I find having a final coat of matte white over your light block works best- the idea is to diffuse and spread the scattered light as much as possible, shiny/gloss with give you more if a direct reflection.
One problem with LED lighting is that the light is very directional- there is even a lens in front to do this in most cases. the good old fashioned grain of wheat or grain of rice incandescent bulbs were a lot easier to light with since the light spread out evenly in all directions. I sometimes sand the front of the LED to disrupt the lens effect to help spread the light out more, depending on where you are illuminating a clear diffuser sheet with microgroves does wonders
One problem with LED lighting is that the light is very directional- there is even a lens in front to do this in most cases. the good old fashioned grain of wheat or grain of rice incandescent bulbs were a lot easier to light with since the light spread out evenly in all directions. I sometimes sand the front of the LED to disrupt the lens effect to help spread the light out more, depending on where you are illuminating a clear diffuser sheet with microgroves does wonders
JNordgren42
Sr Member
A diffuser sheet is definitely your friend. Also if you're looking for an inexpensive (or even free) source, see if you can find a broken LED TV, they usually have some pretty high end diffusion materials in them because of the need for very even lighting. My 60" Samsung died and I was able to pull out a big sheet of white acrylic diffuser about 1/8" thick, and a thin sheet of Fresnel diffuser. Together, they give an almost perfect diffusion as long as you can give a little bit of gap between the LED and the Fresnel sheet. I'm using them in various spots in my 1/350 Refit, most notably the flux chiller grilles in the warp nacelles and they do an amazing job.
joberg
Legendary Member
Yes, I use the sanding of LED too, but I'd seen a video of someone putting a small "glob" of warm glue (glue-gun) and it works wonder diffusing the light
I prefer matte white to diffuse the light the get it more even. Gloss white can make it more "source-y". Unless that is the look you want.
Pixelworks
Well-Known Member
I always use matte white to reflect large areas. The risk of seeing a reflection of a hotspot in the gloss it too high. I suppose there might be reasons for doing it out there, but personally I cannot think of a use-case where you would use gloss and matte white would not work.
If I need a single LED to go full glare around a corner (e.g. if the spot where a spotlight needs shine out of is too small for an LED) or to get a defined concave/convex type of lighted surface, I use something completely chrome-like reflective... Although the latter requires a LOT of trial and error to get the distances just right.
For defusing, it really depends how close your LED is to the opening, Indirekt is usually the best, but sometimes you just do not have the luxury of so much room inside your part, then as mentioned above... sanding the LEDs, sanding the part of the model that lets the light out, or some type of defusing material (or all three). For defusing material you can really use anything that lets enough light through. In the past I have even cut up the white plastic of a Philadelphia Cheese container or a the plastic of a yogurt container... a lot of these plastics have different densities and work for different difusing situations and if one layer is not enough, just add another until the difusion is right.
If I need a single LED to go full glare around a corner (e.g. if the spot where a spotlight needs shine out of is too small for an LED) or to get a defined concave/convex type of lighted surface, I use something completely chrome-like reflective... Although the latter requires a LOT of trial and error to get the distances just right.
For defusing, it really depends how close your LED is to the opening, Indirekt is usually the best, but sometimes you just do not have the luxury of so much room inside your part, then as mentioned above... sanding the LEDs, sanding the part of the model that lets the light out, or some type of defusing material (or all three). For defusing material you can really use anything that lets enough light through. In the past I have even cut up the white plastic of a Philadelphia Cheese container or a the plastic of a yogurt container... a lot of these plastics have different densities and work for different difusing situations and if one layer is not enough, just add another until the difusion is right.
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Richard Baker
Sr Member
For the longest time cars used matte silver inside tail lights to spread the light from the incandescent bulbs and a diamond texture panel offset behind the outer red plastic surface (about 1/2) to give the tail light an even glow. This was circa '70s to early 90s,
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