Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery - Daniel Craig's Hat.

[dreadnought]

I often research props and all that time and information just goes into a folder on my computer. So I thought I would start sharing it, as there might be somebody who finds it interesting – or rather useful. Keeping the RPF as the premiere source for props information.

Now straight off the bat, I want to disclaim that I’m not actually a fan of this film! Without spoiling anything I thought the plot was extremely ‘naff’ (to use a good British-English phrase). There are some narrative highlights, and the amount and calibre of actor is wild.

I love good distinctive costuming in a film, but for me, the costumes should, just as the music, be an organic part of the picture as a whole. In this film they stick out. I mean not to offend any of the craftspeople on this film. They obviously have the job they have do due to talent, this is merely a comment on the choices made. Maybe the near-clownish costumes should work in a colourful ‘Whodunit’, but I feel the stick out - the references too lazily obvious.

Phew, sorry I had to disclaim the above and now to why I started writing: One of the very obvious references is Daniel Craig’s character Benoit Blanc’s costuming. I think I read, that Craig himself wanted to push the costume towards a clear reference to Carry Grant’s in Hitchcock 1955 film “To Catch A Theif”; Neckerchief, high-waisted trousers and all. Costume designer Jenny Eagan designed his shorts with a tailor who used a pattern originally made for Sinatra. Furthermore, his character’s costume references Craig's previous role as James Bond ( and so does the dialogue in the film) with ‘cocktail’ cuffs on his shirt, his Omega Seamaster on his wrist and his 60s swimming costume.

Read from here to skip a ramble:
But Daniel Craig’s costume item I surprisingly enjoyed is designer Jenny Eagan’s clear nod to the iconic French character ‘Monsieur Hulot’ famously created by and played by Jacques Tati. The hat Craig/Benoit Blanc wears in various scenes, a beige sun/bucket hat of sorts has the back of its brim upturned in a very Hulot-esque manner. While the M. Hulot character wears that sort of soft-brimmed, sand-coloured hat, (especially in the film ”Les Vacances De M. Hulot” 1953) the one chosen for Craig is a tad different. Hulot’s is much closer that what the US army had in WW2 (Hat, Herringbone Twill, M1941 famously called “Daisy Mae”) and the usual bucket hats or military field/jungle/bonnie hats have a round or rather oval crown. Craig's has a beautiful seam running up either side giving it a more elegant look. After scouring the behind-the-scenes footage without any luck, I started googling. Calling it a “Fedora-type twill hat”. After a few close matches, I stumbled upon what I think is the closest match. (If I can assume that the hat is a found object rather than one made for the film). Luxury brand Burberry (then still called Burberrys') produced something called a “rain hat”. They still make it now but call it generically a 'bucket hat' A hat from Burberrys' would really befit Craig's character excellently and at first glance, the seams on the brim and crown match in number to the one worn in the film. I will say Burberrys' famous “gabardine” fabric is a tad finer than the one in the film, but I guess ‘weathering’ by the costume department could account for this look?

What do you think? I’ve never owned any Burberry, but I knew that Burberrys' invented “gabardine” fabric (cloth) for exploration and had outfitted legends Amundsen, Shackleton and Mallory on his fatal attempt on Everest in 1924. Knowing all that I got myself one on eBay, for a good price and in black and I am looking forward to seeing how it looks in real life.

Maybe this lengthy text will be forever forgotten. But if it helps just one person, I shall be glad and I want to disclaim again, I mean no offence to the hard-working film people (I am one of you) – it is just my opinion. – All the best, D.

P.S.: If you are looking for his sunglasses they are model '1302' by Cutler & Gross

 

[joberg]

It's true that Tati wore it with a more crumpled look (his head was "flatter"). Since it's a summer hat; there are 4 holes (eyelets) on top to make it more "airy" during those hot days at the beach. As you can see in the pic I posted; the hat has its seam on the side not like the Burberry kaki plaid in your pic. It's an elusive hat to say the least...but a found object for sure.
One close model is on Ebay France:
Search: chapeau ancien - click on Costumes et vêtements d`époque de collection
You will see a page of women's/man's hats.
Go all the way down that page and select chapeau ancien homme. There's only 2 pages.
Select the second one and you'll see the hat in question: Ancien chapeau pour Homme super liège
Not the same color but close
Love the research, btw.

 

[dreadnought]

Thank you Joberg!

Even though I have about 20% doubt, I think the Burberrys’ hat is a pretty good match (especially pattern-wise) to the Daniel Craig Glass Onion Hat

And I agree that Hulot’s (Jacques Tati’s) holiday hat is a tat different. Your comment actually made me look into this and I fell down a midnight online rabbit hole that I thought would be interesting to add (as I haven’t found anybody else comment on this):

As I wrote in my original comment, Tati’s hat looks like a “4-panel bucket hat” (so not the current army-type round crowned ‘Boonie’ hat). I made an off-the-cuff comment that it looks a bit like an American World War 2 “Hat, Herringbone Twill, M1941 famously called “Daisy Mae”. – I’ll get back to that.

I tried to see if there were any popular models at the time they filmed ”Les Vacances De M. Hulot” in 1952/1953, but none stood out. I had read Yvon Chouinard (of Patagonia fame) said that due to Europe rebuilding and the lack of technical manufacturing, most outdoorsy people would have bought army surplus. I, therefore, looked into French army hats from Algeria and Indochina, but nothing came close. Some of the more modern French Army hats are similar but have very different eyelets.

It is at this point that I thought back to my original comment and thought: Well the US army did have a big presence in France, could it be a “Daisy Mae”? So, I rewatched the film and to my happy surprise, I actually noticed that Hulot’s hat has the very same pattern and eyelets as the M1941 hat!! (See attached images!) The “Daisy Mae” hat was made in a variety of materials (usually HBT) but there are plenty of examples of beige cotton twill ones (the HBT could also have faded).

So a fantastic and near-accurate Hulot hat would be to buy something like the (of course Japanese) reproductions from Buzz Rickson's or Warehouse! (If you can afford it) Alternatively an HBT Daisy Mae from Bronson's.

What a lovely find! I hope you enjoyed another deep dive. Now I must get another summer hat ha ha.
Thinking of it: A nice Hulot homage is the Wes Anderson-directed Ad for Japanese "Soft Bank" featuring Brad Pitt. He wears a great Terry cloth bucket hat with upturned-back brim. Watch the 30 second ad here.

P.S: What do you think of the combined image research?
P.P.S. I think Tati only wears this type of hat in the first Hulot film. The later ones seem to have a felt hat.
P.P.P.S: A great alternative to the Japanese repros is these ones by Carhartt: this and this.

 

[joberg]

Yes, you're right about the Algerian/Indochina wars; not the same designs at all! I like your research on the subject; lots of material was left by the Allied during and after the WWII. My family is from Belgium so I know quite a lot about the way different Armies and Resistance Groups were exchanging weapons, uniforms/clothes, etc, during the conflict...The overall population didn't shy away from wearing Army Surplus clothing since a lot of clothing manufacturers had transformed their factories during the War.
It seems that you've hit the jackpot in terms of aiming your eyes on the "Daisy Mae" model.

 

[dirigo]

Following

 

[dirigo]

Love your research. Any insight to the hat that norman lear wears?

 

[joberg]

Love your research. Any insight to the hat that norman lear wears?

Nope, not the same hat. To be fair; this is a thread about another hat altogether. Unless dreadnought doesn't mind the hijacking, you could open a brand new thread about Norman Lear's hat

 

[dirigo]

Thank you for the tip joberg. New member here by way of google search leading me to dreadnoughts very informative post. Looking forward to joining the community. My apologies for the hijack.

 

[Leinads]

oops double tap lol

 

[joberg]

Thank you for the tip joberg. New member here by way of google search leading me to dreadnoughts very informative post. Looking forward to joining the community. My apologies for the hijack.

No problem...no one died ...and welcome to the RPF

 

[dreadnought]

Thank you for the tip joberg. New member here by way of google search leading me to dreadnoughts very informative post. Looking forward to joining the community. My apologies for the hijack.

Welcome to the RPF! This thread went from Knives Out to Monsieur Hulot why not Norman Lear? This could turn into the Film-hat thread.

 

[dreadnought]

Love your research. Any insight to the hat that norman lear wears?

As I can't imagine this niche thread will be getting a lot of comments, I don't mind adding a bit. I looked at some hi-res images and it looks like some sort of 6-panel sun/bucket hat made in a canvas or poplin fabric with stitching to support the crown (a bit like the early Indochina hats). He must have more than one judging by the photos. Some look a bit 'trilby' like. I read somewhere that some of his hats might be vintage by the brand "DORFMAN PACIFIC". There are a few on ebay with a similar style and fabric, but not too close. There are some great close-ups in this GQ article.

I guess keeping with the RPF spirit, you could get something like this and add some stitching, remove the top button and make sure to wear it like Mr. Lear. A true Replica.

After having looked through quite a few photos I would describe his hat as a "6-panel, canvas, short-brimmed sun hat with reinforced crown" worn like a trilby. So if you don't make one yourself maybe a good Etsy seller could make you one

Hope that sort of helped