Ghostbusters 1:1 Ecto Containment Unit Build

910dohead

New Member
Hello, RPF! We are a Ghostbusters cosplay group that formed just over a year ago called Southland Ghostbusters.

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Besides doing events for charity, we've been hitting the convention scene in California pretty hard since forming. Recently, we've been invited to have our own fan table at the upcoming C4 Central Coast Comic Convention here in Southern California. The convention will run from September 12th thru the 14th in the beautiful city of Ventura. For more info & tickets, you can check out their site at C4 Central Coast Comic Con - C4.

Since this will be our first fan table at an event, we wanted to put something special together for our booth that you normally wouldn't see on display; a 1:1 screen accurate replica of the Ecto Containment Unit from the first film. We will also be having a special guest at our booth and we don't want to disappoint with our presentation. We are currently about a third of the way through with our build, so our first post will be a summary of our progress up until this point. If you are interested in catching up our progress in full, you can visit our build thread on Ghostbusters Fans: Containment Unit Discussion & Build - Community - Ghostbusters Fans Forum

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There have been a lot of people that have already built containment units of their own, so we had no problem finding plans online for the prop. We began by building the frame for the upper box portion.

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Next we moved onto the lower portion of the frame.

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Added some more support beams to the frame and then moved onto the backboard.

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At this point in the build, we weren't satisfied with the results we were getting from the plans we chose. Unfortunately, the dimensions were not as close to scale as we wanted so we decided to take a step back and figure out the scale. The frame looked about right, but the bottom half was undersized. This resulted in us having to rebuild a second bottom piece.

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We were satisfied with the scale of the bottom piece at this point. This setback also had us cutting out a new backboard, which we were glad to have happened. The wood we cut out originally was going to need a lot of sanding. The new piece was an upgrade, so we saved ourselves from a few days of future sanding. Next we moved onto the cover for the bottom piece.

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Then we moved onto the cover for the upper half of the frame.

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Next we moved onto screwing the bottom cover onto the frame and then using bondo to cover up the screws.

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Then we cut out the door and the other faceplate pieces. Once the door was cut, we compared it to screen shots and realized it was undersized in the plans. This resulted in us having to move the inner support beams of the frame a few inches apart and recut the opening to the door.

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This hiccup had us reverting back to revising the plans and taking closer looks at screen shots. To make matters worse, we discovered something new in this screenshot here:
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If you take a look at the lower half on the frame of the containment unit, you'll notice a small black and white rectangle. Well, that's always been previously referred to as a handle, but taking a closer look at it reveals it to be a manufacturers sticker of some sort. Since we're striving for accuracy, we had to go back and rebuild the piece since we had cut the handle into ours.

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Here you start to see a happy containment unit:

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Let's add a new cover to this piece and sand it down.

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Now that we're back on track, we decided to get all of the smaller pieces going.

Here's the part to the right of the unit:
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The ribbon cable stops that goes on at the upper left: (the legos are only being used for scale since we haven't received the real part yet.)
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Then we drilled out the hole we needed to add the meter piece to the faceplate:
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Now this leaves us at step in our progress which was rounding out the sides of the upper frame and sanding the sides.

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One thing that I will reveal on the rpf that I haven't done in our other thread is that we have researched and found all of the original parts (except two). We're not sure if this has ever been done before on a containment unit build. This may be a first? Anyways, the two parts we haven't been able to identify are the door handle (which we think might be an aircraft handle either used on door or an older jettison latch) and the black rubber looking piece inside the door around the trap housing (which we think is a leather camera bellows).
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Feel free to chime in with your guesses as to what these parts might be. We found some close substitutes but no spot on matches. Also, we would like any input or critism on our build so far. Everything is up for discussion. We'll be sharing different things on each of our build threads to keep them both exciting. Stay Tuned!
 
Honestly what it looks like to me, and I could be completely wrong, is a bunch of lengths of black rubber hose all glued together. 1/4", if I had to guess from the scale. On the side and in between the first two ribs from the front, there is a greyish-white smear that looks like there might be some glue that squished out. Maybe JB Weld or something of the like. Also on the side of the third rib in from the back, it almost looks like printing that you would find on rubber hosing.

That's my best guess. Take it for what you will! :D
 
Honestly what it looks like to me, and I could be completely wrong, is a bunch of lengths of black rubber hose all glued together. 1/4", if I had to guess from the scale. On the side and in between the first two ribs from the front, there is a greyish-white smear that looks like there might be some glue that squished out. Maybe JB Weld or something of the like. Also on the side of the third rib in from the back, it almost looks like printing that you would find on rubber hosing.

That's my best guess. Take it for what you will! :D

That's probably what we'll end up doing if the part hasn't been found by the time we get to that part of the build (if it is a real part). I was thinking it could also be a large shifter boot?
 
It's been a frightfully long time since I have given this thread an update. A lot has been going on with this build since. I believe the build looked like this in the last update:

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We have been struggling with scale ever since the beginning of this project. We started the physical building before really having any of the real-world parts in hand. Once a key part would arrive (that we could better base scale from) we would discover pieces we had already built had improper dimensions. Therefore we have to go back and completely rebuild finished pieces in a newly revised scale. Sadly, this happened more than once. Two attempts were made at the backboard and upper half of the frame, as well as three attempts at the angled bottom frame. The first upper frame made it past patching and sanding, so you only imagine our dismay when it was decided that we had to start that whole process over.

We came to a point halfway into the project where everything had tripled. The time being put into it, the cost of parts and supplies, the summer temperature of the desert, etc. Frustrated, but not defeated, we decided to put everything on hold until we could research, identify and locate the rest of the parts. Luckily for us we are at a point in this build where scale is within reason and we won't have to go back and make major revisions.

Here is what has been going on since the last update. Since we are using wood to try and replicate a prop that appears to be metal, we are going to have to do a lot of patching and sanding. First, we covered up any screw holes with bondo. Once that was cure and sanded, we coated the exterior wood pieces with Elmer's wood filler and then sanded that.

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Once we felt we did a decent job of sanding, we primed the lower half and backboard to see what we may have missed.

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The backboard needed a coat to get out any perfections. We also started to apply the fake bolt heads onto the lower frame.

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Then we moved onto the ribbon cable boxes.

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After sanding and priming, we were left with this.

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Next, we cut out the push button panel and test fit the buttons to see how they would fit.

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At this point, the push buttons were missing some key pieces to them. They were missing their outer acrylic lenses which act as an outer frame. They simply slide right in from the side and over the brackets. The buttons are also missing bulbs and the colored caps which go over them. The bulbs are a matter of going online and ordering some. However, the caps and lenses are almost impossible to find for these.

The backup plan for the lenses would be to simply cut them out of acrylic with a bit router. We ended up going to a nearby sign shop that specializes in acrylic signs to see if we could purchase a small piece in the thickness we needed. The easy part was the sign guy gave us the piece we needed for free, but the hard part would be cutting out the pieces. We decided to hold off on cutting them out until way later in the build.

Next we figured out the placement of the meter and control knobs. What you see in the picture below are all inaccurate knobs. The grey one is a resin casting of the accurate knob which we eventually want to replace with a real one. The larger black one is the proper knob but it's too big. We discovered the actual size is 3/4". The closest sizes that we've been able to find are 1/2" and 1". We need some help finding this knob because we've hit a dead end (i'll bring this back up later in the post). The smaller black knob you see is the end of a binding post. At this point in the build, it was the closest match I could find to the screen used knob. Later I discovered the actual knob.

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Next step was drilling holes for the flush handle and cutting out the entry for it.

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We cut out a wooden dummy handle to make sure we sure it would fit.

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Then we concentrated on adding the nuts and bolts to each corner of the backboard and sanding the inside of the door frame. Then it was primed and turned out fantastic. It really looks like a piece of metal in person. It's very hard to tell its a piece of wood.

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Next, we went through freaky geeky fabrications to make us the flush handle out of aluminum. It was beautifully made to our exact specifications.

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Now that we had the final flush handle and everything fit in place, we could then attach the front to the upper frame. We prepared the piece by pre-drilling each hole. Then we used wood glue to strengthen the bond and then screwed it to the frame.

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This next picture sums up where we were in our build before we decided to take a break.

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The break was great because we really needed the time to prep for the upcoming conventions and events our group was going to be apart of. Plus, the holidays were right around the corner and this project was taking up any free time we had inbetween work and life. In the meantime I was still trying to research and find the right parts.

Our break isn't quite over just yet. We are going to resume it fully in January after the new year. However, we did locate some great stuff for the build.

First, we found the right conduit tubing in the correct sizes and patterns.

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We then could throw out the inaccurate binding post because we found the right control knobs for the meter faceplate (the teardrop knob has a skirt that was being worked on when I snapped this picture. It had a white arrow on it which was being removed).

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Then to our surprise we found the correct outer lenses, bulbs and colored caps for the push button switches.

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Finally, we found something we were having the hardest time locating and had been searching for since the very beginning.

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These are the correct barn lamps that were on the screen used prop. We located two new old stock in unopened boxes from 1973! A few things happened after we put these together. First, we could finally start to see the containment unit come together. Also, we could move on to the next steps without having to wait around.

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Finally, by having the right lamps, we realized that we were in scale.

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This is where we are at in this build. It's coming along slow but only because a lot of that time was spent filling and sanding. The good stuff is finally going to get started. Here's what is going to happen next. We are going to go have the door made out of aluminum and possibly try for the handle as well. There are only two pieces on this prop that we've not been able to identify. The door handle and the black rubber piece inside the door.

Most importantly we've been trying to locate the red knob on the control panel

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The correct knob was manufactured by Daka-ware of Chicago in the 1960's, which at some point was bought out by Davies Molding (who no longer offer that particular style knob).

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The knob is 3/4", red and unskirted. Most typically used in a concentric setup like this:

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On the bottom of each of these style control knobs is a number. The correct number on the 3/4" knob is 8.

We have exhausted our search in finding one of these. We've gone to every surplus and electronics place in Southern California trying to score one but have come up empty handed. We are reaching out to anyone who could help us track down one of these knobs! If you know where we could get one, please point us in the right direction. Just send me a pm if you can help us out. Any leads would be appreciated!!

Anyways, since this post is just a summary of our progress so far, you can read more of the detailed progress over at Ghostbusters Fans by following this link: gbfans.com

We'll post more updates after the new year.
 
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I banged this out when I got home from work. I can send you the STL file if you want. If you can't find the right knob, then 3D printing is the last resort.

:)
 
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I banged this out when I got home from work. I can send you the STL file if you want. If you can't find the right knob, then 3D printing is the last resort.

:)

OMG! That's above and beyond! Thank you so much! The option to 3d print the knob never even occurred to me. This would definitely be an awesome substitute! I can't thank you enough for this. I will send you a PM for that file.

Thank you all for the kind words. I hadn't realized anyone commented on this thread since I posted the update. I guess i'm not receiving notifications. Anyways, I did go out to find the red and green light bulbs for the barn lamps. We will be resuming the build just shortly after the new year, but in the meantime I am going to get the red knob printed that Jintosh kindly created for us. Again, I can't thank you enough for that!
 
I was able to source an old rubber camera bellows through a friend that works in an antique shop. I can guarantee that you will not find a shifter boot that will fit around the diameter of the box where the trap cartridge fits into, as well as the length needed to reach to the back of the unit. I looked far and wide, even went to a few junkyards.
 
I was able to source an old rubber camera bellows through a friend that works in an antique shop. I can guarantee that you will not find a shifter boot that will fit around the diameter of the box where the trap cartridge fits into, as well as the length needed to reach to the back of the unit. I looked far and wide, even went to a few junkyards.

What does your rubber camera bellow look like? Does it match up to the screen prop? That would be interesting to know if it ended up really being an old bellow. Yeah, I gave up on looking at shifter boots when it became obvious they don't come that big.
 
I can take some pics next to some measuring devices once I get home, but its much larger than any of the bellows I was able to find. Its definitely rubber though (making me think its newer than your average leather bellow) because it also doesn't have that peeling cloth-like layer on the outside. When my buddy brought it over, I said, "Woah, that thing came off a huge friggen camera".
 
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