FX Reveal board assembly for FX MoM Cave Hero.

Sieg

Active Member
Nice work! I can't believe I didn't see this either. I am excited to get started on mine now that I've got this!
 

SilantStrike

New Member
This is a great post, and has helped immensely. Thank you for sharing

With the helper and reveal boards, any tips for keeping them in place so that they don't move once installed and the clamp card is sealed? I did add a small piece of kapton tape as a shim for the helper board so that the buttons actuate correctly against the switches, but I still get alittle bit of up/down play

I was considering a small drop of hot glue in the corners of the reveal board to help keep things pressed down.

Thoughts?
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is a great post, and has helped immensely. Thank you for sharing

With the helper and reveal boards, any tips for keeping them in place so that they don't move once installed and the clamp card is sealed? I did add a small piece of kapton tape as a shim for the helper board so that the buttons actuate correctly against the switches, but I still get alittle bit of up/down play

I was considering a small drop of hot glue in the corners of the reveal board to help keep things pressed down.

Thoughts?
I haven’t attempted install myself yet (waiting for the crystal chambers… which are nearly done)
But a small magnet or two glued in between the helper and reveal may work given correct dimensions on the magnets?
The helper board itself, once installed, could be seated with appropriate double sided tape or hot glue as mentioned
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Can’t believe I forgot to mention it in this thread.
I did finally source the original donor PCB for the screen used (and current state) prop.
A friend of the project has been helping me workshop the correct assembly.

2 things to report:
I’m pretty pleased with THIS FX board as a compiled and proprietary facsimile! Considering it is designed for this specific hilt I don’t feel any pressure to alter it as it meets the requirements of the FX hilt and (I think) looks great.

The Static Kits that come from our analysis and workshopping with the found donor board will all be self contained within the control box just as theorized.

(Can’t believe I forgot to mention that here)

My computer has been down and I have been lacking the funds to get it repaired: so my progress will be limited until that happens but I’m thankful for our fellow RPFer who has been helping me understand the original assembly and wiring. More to come soon :)
 

Eruonen

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Random question. For the static MoM, are we going to be able to get them pre installed? Or are we looking at the same type of situation as the FX, where we just get the pieces and have to do it ourselves?
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Fantastic! Looks better than mine!
pat morita nod GIF
 

Sevi2801

New Member
I finally put my reveal board together, thanks again for the great tutorial. Without the tutorial I would've been totally lost.

P. S. The blue capacitor I received, seems to be a little bit wider/fatter than in your pictures.

IMG_20220205_180706_edit_165958738740300.jpg
 

Sevi2801

New Member
Hey guys short question:
I'm just finishing the adjustments for the helper board to sit flush in the box and the new Phillips screws with lower head profile I bought still don't sink perfectly in the holes. So the board is still sitting a little bit proud. Now what can I do? You mentioned counter sinking the holes slightly more (without a drill it?!), but how exactly can I do this without using a bit? I hope someone can give me a good advise because I don't wanna mess up the controlbox.

Thanks in advance.
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
All you need is a countersink bit, it’s designed in a way that will allow you to remove material slowly and in control…. whereas a drill bit would almost certainly go straight through.



591B55B9-0C28-45C4-80F6-89BBC627E71A.jpeg
1865167D-29C7-43EC-BF2E-AD0BBEC57552.jpeg
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks Bryan, will try it with a countersink bit, I hope I won't f... it up
Sure thing:
You’ll want to use one that is (just oversized) from the head of screw. (6mm, 1/4”, or 7mm)

Keep one screw tightened in the box and main body and remove the other.

>> (since you’ll want the countersink to affect both the canoe and the bottom of the control box.)

Countersink the hole without the screw
>> go a little at a time and keep checking your flathead screw fits until it is flush.

If a burr developed on either the canoe or the bottom of the control box, simply use a file or sandpaper to remove any burrs that might prevent proper compression.

Re insert the screw and tighten it.

Repeat the process on the other hole.

This way, you’ll be able to ensure the countersink is effective all the way through the control box assembly :)
 

Sevi2801

New Member
Sure thing:
You’ll want to use one that is (just oversized) from the head of screw. (6mm, 1/4”, or 7mm)

Keep one screw tightened in the box and main body and remove the other.

>> (since you’ll want the countersink to affect both the canoe and the bottom of the control box.)

Countersink the hole without the screw
>> go a little at a time and keep checking your flathead screw fits until it is flush.

If a burr developed on either the canoe or the bottom of the control box, simply use a file or sandpaper to remove any burrs that might prevent proper compression.

Re insert the screw and tighten it.

Repeat the process on the other hole.

This way, you’ll be able to ensure the countersink is effective all the way through the control box assembly :)
Thank you so much for your further explanation, you're great Bryan!
 

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