Nice work! I can't believe I didn't see this either. I am excited to get started on mine now that I've got this!
I haven’t attempted install myself yet (waiting for the crystal chambers… which are nearly done)This is a great post, and has helped immensely. Thank you for sharing
With the helper and reveal boards, any tips for keeping them in place so that they don't move once installed and the clamp card is sealed? I did add a small piece of kapton tape as a shim for the helper board so that the buttons actuate correctly against the switches, but I still get alittle bit of up/down play
I was considering a small drop of hot glue in the corners of the reveal board to help keep things pressed down.
Sure thing:Thanks Bryan, will try it with a countersink bit, I hope I won't f... it up
Thank you so much for your further explanation, you're great Bryan!Sure thing:
You’ll want to use one that is (just oversized) from the head of screw. (6mm, 1/4”, or 7mm)
Keep one screw tightened in the box and main body and remove the other.
>> (since you’ll want the countersink to affect both the canoe and the bottom of the control box.)
Countersink the hole without the screw
>> go a little at a time and keep checking your flathead screw fits until it is flush.
If a burr developed on either the canoe or the bottom of the control box, simply use a file or sandpaper to remove any burrs that might prevent proper compression.
Re insert the screw and tighten it.
Repeat the process on the other hole.
This way, you’ll be able to ensure the countersink is effective all the way through the control box assembly