FX Reveal board assembly for FX MoM Cave Hero.

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is a photo tutorial to cover the DIY assembly for the Veracity Labs/ 7Chambers’ Magic of Myth Cave build Hero’s reveal card.
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This will also serve as the thread for the Static control box kits when that time comes.

Here is what we will need.
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- Your hilt and your new control box reveal kit.
- reference
- hobby knife or file
- flush cutters and/or scissors
- tape of choice
- superglue (+activator) or other preferred glue.
- white acrylic brush paint
- ultra fine detail brush
- tweezers
- helping hands or small vice (optional)
- wire strippers (30/32 gauge)
- soldering iron
- high- tech silver solder
- tinning flux (solder paste)

PCB CLEANUP
- Hobby knife or file
- tape of choice if need be.

First, check your helper boards to ensure that they fit in the control box.

They should-
A. Sit flush to the floor of the box
B. The control box button assembly should actuate the buttons on the helper (clicks).

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IF the board is sitting proud of the floor of the box it may be because the screw head profiles included from the factory are a bit taller.

Two ways to remedy this are to:
1. Order screws with a lower profile. I have found these titanium screws to be ideal, consistent, and indestructible
---->. McMaster-Carr
2. Countersink the holes slightly more (DO NOT use a drill bit to countersink).

IF the tension on the buttons is NOT tight enough to actuate, the helper board can be shimmed at the back side to push the buttons into position. Tape would work well for this by applying layers pushing it from the backside until both buttons actuate while the helper board sits solidly against the front side of the box.

Second, let’s ensure that the helper board and the button fits cleanly underneath the new reveal board.
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AKA…
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This can be accomplished by using a hobby knife or file to refine the slot on the reveal board to allow the button to sit in cleanly and without compression or interference.
To do this: Focus on removing the radii in the corners and making sure they are 90° right angles.


Once these pieces can both be fit in the control box easily we are ready to start working on the aesthetics.

Here is our PRIMARY reference.
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Remember that the dimensions and sizing have been adapted from the original Static size;
That said SOME aesthetic interpretation is completely expected here.
 
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BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Now that we’ve scribed the button hole corners down to 90° and ensure it fits the helper cleanly; I’d recommend using the hobby knife to burnish the tin coating off of the two pads low on the board. They should be bright copper but be gentle it doesn’t take much!

IC Symbol Paint:
Now Let’s pull out the white acrylic paint (or your preferred white paint) and our fine detail brush:

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We want to try and replicate the reference, and this is what I came up with.

Don't be afraid to try a couple times if need be until you're happy with it- this board carries no current and serves no function other than aesthetic. Acrylic cleans up with water thus this will be an easy part to re-do.


DEATH STAR BRASS
SAFETY FIRST! This is very thin metal and has the potential to cut... be cautious as always especially if using an exacto or serrated blade to remove and handle these.


You really only “need” the top three parts to complete the look- but I have provided a couple extra pieces for fun.
Use scissors, a sharp hobby knife, or flush cutters to remove them.
I prefer a hobby knife so I can slice them out selectively.


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These brass boards have been half-etched so you can see the parts that are used for the STATIC hero.

For the FX Hero you will need to go ahead and trim them a bit further to fit the sizing in this FX control box.

After cutting them out we will want to begin test fitting them onto the board and comparing them with our reference.
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After verifying cut and placement:

-I recommend placing a dab of superglue on a disposable work-surface and dipping the bottom side of the brass in. This gets just enough glue underneath the brass to adhere to the board.
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I would glue down the bottom positioned brass first.

For the left piece, be sure to consider pre-bending the part to lay snugly against the left side of the IC traces, as well as flat on the board.
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Make sure the left piece is aligned so that it somewhat covers the top of the large red wire hole.

Once the glue dries it should remain secure.
However, If the left piece is being difficult you can use helping hands or spring tweezers (and more generous gluing on the IC traces) as I did here:
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I found it easiest to place the IC brass on last so that I could position it in a pleasing way to work with the other two.
 
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BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Tantalum Capacitor

I'll be using the solder treatment but the placement will be almost exactly the same if you're choosing to glue these pieces.

You'll want to trim the ends of the capacitor to roughly match the length of the screen-printed yellow targets around the pads.

Then using a soldering iron, pre-tin the legs of the capacitor.
I would also flux and pre-tin the pads themselves.

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When you are ready to solder the capacitor make sure the side with the serial numbers is FACING DOWN.

If you’ve barely fused both legs, you may consider adding solder to beef up the connection and closer match the reference... like so.
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Now for the wires:
Let’s start by locating the (2) holes: and the (3) pads we’ll use to solder the wires to.

You’ll begin by pre-tinning the pads and passing this wire through first.
(Don't pre-tin the wires until you've passed the end through the smaller hole!)
The FIRST wire should be relatively straight and tight after soldering. This will also help keep your second wire in position.
*note* (You could also choose to glue these wires if you are uncomfortable with soldering this size wire gauge).

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For the second (looped) wire.
Pass it into the free hole and again Pre-tin and solder it to the pad.
You will want to coax the wire into the loop shape to match the reference by twisting it with your finger.
Pass it into the hole in between the wall of the pcb and the 1st wire.

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To help maintain the shape and position, I have (single) twisted the second wire around the first wire just underneath the hole.

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After trimming the end and soldering it with the first wire, the reveal board is complete.
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BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Supplemental video explanation (and a job well done) by zjunlimited. Great job Morgan!



Common request / Replacement part / updated part links:

For Reveal Board:

Correct scale Tantalum capacitor:
Correct size Tantalum

Preferred 30 gauge .6mm jacket red wire:
30 gauge .6mm jacket red wire various length


For control box:
-"Medium Press" Springs for black buttons:
N-11CS - 0.22 Inch length, 9.5 Pound Force per Inch rate Stainless…

-"Heavy Press" Springs for black buttons:
LL-66CS - 0.25 Inch length, 22 Pound Force per Inch rate Stainless…

-M3 (new) screw resolve for the control box: (MoM FX rail canoe specific)
Titanium low profile m3 screws

-Copper washi tape for control box rails:
Metal foil washi tape pack

-(Pleasant scent) re-usable Metal polishing cloths for clamp card:
Cape Cod metal polish cloths
 
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TriLaser

Sr Member
Now I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure there is another resistor here similar to this. If this has been discussed before just ignore. 6505816_b138affa-5a12-4e4e-8a19-b5845462873a_2048_0.jpg Screen Shot 2019-05-24 at 4.43.24 PM.jpg
 

TriLaser

Sr Member
Very much already covered
Those are the lower 11 of the 44 traces on the IC, partially covered by brass and (I suspect) glue. The shadows give it much more volume in the photo
Ah right, ok, Very much looks like one though that's what confused me. Thanks for the clarification. I might even add the resistor to mine when i get it just because i cant un see it now lol.
 

Sevi2801

New Member
Hi Bryan

Thanks a lot for your effort with this great tutorial. But I still have some (stupid) questions (sorry, I'm from a non English-speaking country) :

1) How did you remove the IC-symbol and serial numbers on the black chip before repainting it? Sanding/scratching it off or using a mat black primer before applying the white color for the screen-accurate pattern?

2) As I neither have any soldering equipment nor any soldering experience, I will have to use glue to attach the resistor and the red wires to the board. So a "normal" super glue will do that job, right?

Best regards! :)
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi Bryan

Thanks a lot for your effort with this great tutorial. But I still have some (stupid) questions (sorry, I'm from a non English-speaking country) :

1) How did you remove the IC-symbol and serial numbers on the black chip before repainting it? Sanding/scratching it off or using a mat black primer before applying the white color for the screen-accurate pattern?

2) As I neither have any soldering equipment nor any soldering experience, I will have to use glue to attach the resistor and the red wires to the board. So a "normal" super glue will do that job, right?

Best regards! :)
Thanks for asking! Those are good questions.

1) Don’t bother removing the information, paint straight over it!
I think that is why they painted it originally, to hide it.
(I did not remove it on the example above, and you can not see it at all)

2) Yes, a strong glue will work as well. As in the photo at the top, I like to use a super glue ‘gel’ so that it does not drip or spread too far
 
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onderon

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So there are no more parts to be soldered? Or just simply no one could find hard evidence yet that there are more?
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So there are no more parts to be soldered? Or just simply no one could find hard evidence yet that there are more?
The Static board parts will have more complexity due to multiple pieces being layered on the topside reveal… although some more reference has been getting scraped up there haven’t been any that are ‘more’ helpful thus I kept this board a little more user friendly- not wanting to overload on something that may or may not be there ;)
 

catboat

Jr Member
I just receive my batch 3 hilt and this is a great thread. I have some questions if I may since I am new to the saber community.

Curious to understand if there are instructions on how build out the rest of the FX. I understand there is additional pieces need: power control board etc. I would like it to carry a blade eventually.

Is there a diagram or instructions that show what each of the brass pieces are for? Only a few are used in the tutorial.

I am new to sort of thing and don’t want to screw it up.

Thanks
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
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catboat
You only need the three pieces indicated to complete the look… the rest are extras to experiment/play with.

They are half etched where you want to trim away material. That is your guide. Personally I would reference the way I placed them on the board… and try to get close. I’m afraid there’s not much more advice or diagrams to be given other than be cautious, use the “extra pieces” to get a sense of how to trim the material, and play with/ work/ familiarize yourself with the material before cutting out the 3 pieces and trying to form/ place them.

As far as the soundboard, blade, and soldering advice I’m afraid there is much more to research in your personal journey. I have only made 1 or two hilts successfully a while back with older tech so I am not the best resource regarding FX… however Facebook groups are a good resource in addition to some of the walkthroughs you can find on YouTube. I’m only familiar with Nano biscotti V4 but some of the newer soundboards may be easier and more capable for your project… in that regard I hope you enjoy the research and knowledge gaining aspect of this DiY project. :)
 
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