Filling in Seams
- Thread starter BenCozine
- Start date
booksandcorsets
Sr Member
Seams between what and what? (Wood, fiberglass? Foam?) And what kind of putties did you try?
BenCozine
Active Member
Styrene/plastic kits.
I have used Testors, tamiya, and the other I forget the name but it is the best seller in America. Tamiya is far and away the better of the three, but so fat it does not work very well.
PoDo
New Member
what sorts of problems do you have? shrinkage or does it simply not stick to the plastics?
I use nearly exclusivly a metall filler made by presto
http://www.motipdupli.de/uploads/pics/DIY-Metallspachtel_01.jpg
and for wider gaps that need structural reinforcement I first apply some two component resin glue
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41znS4uUgkL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
the combination of those two realy work well for me, because the filler really likes to stick to this glue. But of course I don't know, if those brands are availible elsewhere.. ^^
I use nearly exclusivly a metall filler made by presto
http://www.motipdupli.de/uploads/pics/DIY-Metallspachtel_01.jpg
and for wider gaps that need structural reinforcement I first apply some two component resin glue
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41znS4uUgkL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
the combination of those two realy work well for me, because the filler really likes to stick to this glue. But of course I don't know, if those brands are availible elsewhere.. ^^
jedimaster
Sr Member
Which Tamiya are you using? If you have larger gaps then the Tamiya fine putty is probably no good. However if you are using a heavier putty for a small seem then it will bog up and you will have twice as much cleanup. Also consider Tamiya's Light curing putty. Ya Know Putty's ain't Just Putty's.
Spider M Mann
Active Member
I'm not sure how large the gaps are that you are dealing with, but there are a ton of good tips about filling seams and such here:
AeroScale :: Reading the Seams
Also, re: (2) above; be sure to watch out for shrinkage with this method. I also have found issues with the "sprue putty" not curing properly, leaving either an un-cured mush, or a very hard fill, depending on the solvent glue used- be sure to experiment first!
I hope that helps.
AeroScale :: Reading the Seams
Also, re: (2) above; be sure to watch out for shrinkage with this method. I also have found issues with the "sprue putty" not curing properly, leaving either an un-cured mush, or a very hard fill, depending on the solvent glue used- be sure to experiment first!
I hope that helps.
Gigatron
Sr Member
Go to your local "good" hobby shop, and pick up an assortment pack of evergreen styrene. It usually includes a bunch of different thicknesses of strip, sheet, tube, and beam styrene.
Find the correct thickness styrene strip (or double up, or sand down), fill in the gap, trim, secure with cement and sand, as usual. Best parts of using styrene - no shrinkage and since it's the same material as the surrounding plastic, it sands at the same rate and takes paint, the same way. You can re-scribe panel lines if any get lost in the sanding, as well.
With proper prep, you'd never notice there was a seam, to begin with.
Plus it's always good to have a large selection of miscellaneous styrene on hand, in case you need to scratchbuild some detail, or replace detail that you've accidentally sanded off.
Putties shrink, or react differently to paint, and styrene sludge, will sometimes fall into the gap, if the gap is wide enough. Cyanoacrylate, if you let it dry too long, gets difficult to sand.
-Fred
Find the correct thickness styrene strip (or double up, or sand down), fill in the gap, trim, secure with cement and sand, as usual. Best parts of using styrene - no shrinkage and since it's the same material as the surrounding plastic, it sands at the same rate and takes paint, the same way. You can re-scribe panel lines if any get lost in the sanding, as well.
With proper prep, you'd never notice there was a seam, to begin with.
Plus it's always good to have a large selection of miscellaneous styrene on hand, in case you need to scratchbuild some detail, or replace detail that you've accidentally sanded off.
Putties shrink, or react differently to paint, and styrene sludge, will sometimes fall into the gap, if the gap is wide enough. Cyanoacrylate, if you let it dry too long, gets difficult to sand.
-Fred
1) Aves Apoxy Sculpt. Two part epoxy putty that mixes 1-to-1 by hand and tools like hard clay. Can be feathered with sculpting tools or a brush and alcohol (rubbing alcohol or methanol). Has good adhesion, sands like styrene, doesn't shrink, and cures in about 12 hours. For very fine work.
2) Lightweight body filler- aka bondo with a small "B". Polyester resin with fillers, cures in minutes and can be rough-carved before full cure while in its green, or clay, state. For larger work, with large gap-filling and surface building properties. Tends to shrink and that is very noticeable on thick applications, so build up in stages.
I never use putties that cure by evaporation- ie: any one component putty that comes in a tube. They take hours to set up enough to sand and will continue slowly shrinking for years, taking your seams and paint job with it.
The materials I mentioned above, or ones like them, are standard industry items that nevertheless are not beyond the realm of hobbyists and fine artists. I consider them indispensable.
2) Lightweight body filler- aka bondo with a small "B". Polyester resin with fillers, cures in minutes and can be rough-carved before full cure while in its green, or clay, state. For larger work, with large gap-filling and surface building properties. Tends to shrink and that is very noticeable on thick applications, so build up in stages.
I never use putties that cure by evaporation- ie: any one component putty that comes in a tube. They take hours to set up enough to sand and will continue slowly shrinking for years, taking your seams and paint job with it.
The materials I mentioned above, or ones like them, are standard industry items that nevertheless are not beyond the realm of hobbyists and fine artists. I consider them indispensable.
Get Bondo spot filler putty. It's the best putty for model kits I've found. For a while Testors licensed it for their line, but now you have to get Bondo brand.
If you have a really big gap use gap filling super glue or Aves Apoxie Sculpt.
If you have a really big gap use gap filling super glue or Aves Apoxie Sculpt.
Zombie_61
Master Member
+1.
thumbsupI've been using Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty (not the body filler) as a seam filler for several years now. There can be a small amount of shrinkage depending on how much you use, but it's easy to use, cures relatively quickly, and sands easily. And you can find it at just about any auto parts store. BUT...unlike most putties it's too thin to do any real sculpting (for those who want to add detail to a figure kit, for example).
Aves Apoxie Sculpt is a great product for very large gaps and for adding sculpted detail. It does have a couple of minor drawbacks (like every other product), but they can be eliminated easily once you learn how to work with it.
Mechinyun
Sr Member
This is what I use.
Tamiya putty works fine for me.
It's not intended for big gaps. If that's what you are doing, use the properties of styrene and solvent based glues to help you. Go buy thin styrene sheeting, and use slivers to mostly fill the gaps. The glue dissolves the styrene. Then use the puty to fill the small gaps left over.
Alternatively, you can use Araldite to fill seams, and sand it down, but you have a specific time window there between when it gets hard enough to be sandable and when it's totally set.
Whatever you use, after you have finished sanding, spray a light coat of primer to bring out any problem areas. Reapply putty, sand, and go again.
It's not intended for big gaps. If that's what you are doing, use the properties of styrene and solvent based glues to help you. Go buy thin styrene sheeting, and use slivers to mostly fill the gaps. The glue dissolves the styrene. Then use the puty to fill the small gaps left over.
Alternatively, you can use Araldite to fill seams, and sand it down, but you have a specific time window there between when it gets hard enough to be sandable and when it's totally set.
Whatever you use, after you have finished sanding, spray a light coat of primer to bring out any problem areas. Reapply putty, sand, and go again.
NAZGÛL
Sr Member
With patience and a good styrene glue, the fluent version, you can weld the pieces together. Let it dissolve the styrene, then gently push and hold it until the styrene gets solid. It fuses the parts. When its done, just sand the surface.
I use superglue + bakingsoda for bigger gaps. Its a pain to work with after it cures, so go easy and dont wait to long before sanding.
Autoputty is great. You will need to do it a coupl of layers (sand every layer) because it shrinks a little. Dont apply to much each layer and it usually works great.
I use superglue + bakingsoda for bigger gaps. Its a pain to work with after it cures, so go easy and dont wait to long before sanding.
Autoputty is great. You will need to do it a coupl of layers (sand every layer) because it shrinks a little. Dont apply to much each layer and it usually works great.
BenCozine
Active Member
This is for fine/small seams.
Tamiya putty is good, I guess I just need to put 2 or 3 coats of it on before the job is done.
trekriffic
Sr Member
Yes. I agree with you on that. Great stuff for fine seams or filling minor surface flaws. Goes on like butter and dries fast. I thought I was out until I found 3 tubes of it in one of my hobby cart drawers.
NakedMoleRat
Master Member
I use JB Kwick for everything! Dries rock hard, does not shrink and sands smooth.
