Fili the Dwarf Costume Build

Discussion in 'Replica Costumes' started by jessamygriffin, May 17, 2015.

Tags:
  1. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Fili Durin's costume is something my flatmate Feikoi wanted to make, and since I collaborated on a lot of it and she mentioned she never used her profile here to post and didn't mind if I did, here we go.

    We were fortunate that it was the second Dwarven costume I'd done (Thorin Oakenshield's was first) and so the molds I'd made for Thorin's scale mail brigandine armour was able to be re-used for Fili's costume.

    The costume's done, so this isn't a WIP thread, though the inevitable tinkering that always comes with costuming goes on.
    But anyway, here's what we did.

    Fili, nephew and heir of Thorin, the golden prince.

    heirs-trio.jpg thcc_fili_03.jpg

    The finished work.

    YUI_2570.JPG
     
  2. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Under layer - muscle suit

    I love the RPF a lot for the amazing muscle suits I see, but we are just two people living in Japan without fabulous resources. Simple and easy was the order of the day for the muscle suit. It was my idea to make this piece up - with my Thorin costume, the costume itself gives great breadth of shoulder, supported with some shoulder pads made from floor foam attached to a half-t-shirt. Since Feikoi wanted at some point to ditch the coat outer layer to show the decorated long vest, I thought having bigger arms and shoulders would help fill the costume out, as well as giving a better profile. Something broad to help the illusion of shortness or at least Dwarfiness.

    body.jpg

    Going from production pics of the body suits in the Hobbit, I decided to just do a double layer garment with muscles stitched in as pockets, and the back side cut and the stuffing thrust into each. The inner layer was some cheap turquoise cotton knit, and the upper some slippery synthetic lycra thing. I wanted something smooth so the shirt would slide smoothly over it. Going with a stuffed padding like this meant it could be compressed to some degree when packing, as well as hand washed and hung to dry.

    2015-01-23 23.39.45.jpg

    The muscle stitching was done with a zigzag that would allow stretch. The armpits were left completely open for cooling. The lower arm is held to the upper with a strap and button affair. I offered to do elbow pads, but Feikoi decided she didn't need them. If in the future the costume gets too much in terms of heating, she can cut away some of the inner cotton knit later from the chest down. We talked about abs or hip muscles, but in the end didn't bother as Feikoi stated her hips were wide enough to be Dwarven.
     
  3. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Shirt and Pants

    In the Cloaks and Daggers book, it states that Fili's shirt is a silk noile, which does sound pretty nice and drapes beautifully. Feikoi picked out a brown cotton double gauze which was lovely and soft for the shirt.

    shirt.jpg

    Of interest was the quilting and piping on the shirt, as well as the hood. The first pic below is before the hood was attached and lacing holes added. The second is after it was finished and the third a view of the hood (after a cosplay shoot day, when it'd been in a bag and thus is pretty wrinkled.)
    2015-01-02 21.18.36.jpg 2015-01-23 23.27.03.jpg IMG_0101.JPG

    Problems during the shirt build - not many. It's ye olde Tunic Pattern with a Yoke, with underarm gussets for ease, slit up the sides and open in the front. The piping was irksome, as was getting the proportion of the quilting correct. I did run into a snag with the hood, which wound up being pieced from left-over scraps because I ran out of fabric.But it's not very noticeable. It's a nice shirt.

    It goes without saying that the entire costume was built over the muscle pad layer, otherwise it would never have fit.

    Pants - Fili's pants look as if they are some kind of suede and have some fancy seaming above the knee pattern. There's actually a top and bottom to the leg, as well as more vertical seaming. And then, of course the raised patterning.

    Happily, a photographer took detail pics of Fili's costume during the Costume Trail display in NZ. This combined with a display in Japan with a sister city in Wellington meant we actually had the correct pattern for all of Fili's decorative elements. (I didn't have them when I did Thorin's and thus my costume saddens me with inaccuracy.) Thus, a lot of work was done for us - all we had to do was size the patterns in Photoshop etc, and print them out for stencilling and cutting.

    tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o1_1280.jpg tumblr_n2mf1fiIQD1tt9bfno10_1280.jpg

    Feikoi decided to simplify the pants pattern with less seams. A synthetic fabric with a sort of leather look and a bit of stretch was used for the pants.

    The big issue was that raised pattern on the knee. The movie costumers had a fancy set-up; they laser cut leather and sandwiched it to get the effect. There was no way we could manage that. What Feikoi decided to do was cut craft foam and sandwich it between two layers of fabric, using contact glue.

    Here's the proof of concept test piece.
    2015-02-08 18.00.30.jpg
    The sandwiching was done before the pants were cut out and sewn.

    Here's the finished pants on the dummy, and in use.
    IMG_0098.JPG 20150124_212125.jpg
    YUI_2575.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 17, 2015
    Guri likes this.
  4. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Vest - The vest pattern is odd, being that it has a back waist seam (with piping for god’s sake!). The front has long darts extending to the breast, and the back body is darted to the shoulder blades and panels below. The back panels overlap in the centre but not on the sides, I assume so that pockets/knives/whatever can be accessed more easily. And of course you get shoulder pieces with more piping, just in case the muscle pads aren’t enough to make you look as wide as tall.

    325482_354277107986885_1516653969_o.jpg Vest back 2.jpg

    Vinyl pleather was used (best colour) and crushed up for a more worn look. Here's the mock-up pattern:
    IMG_1661.JPG IMG_1660.JPG



    Armour pieces were cast in resin using molds from the Thorin costume build, painted gold and aged to bronze with brown paint. The top pic doesn’t show the colour of the armour very well, but it is a bronzed colour. Plates were attached using Shoe Goo, though a good contact cement like Master’s could be used.
    2015-02-08 18.00.31.jpg 2015-01-22 19.56.52.jpg

    Issues we ran into - the pleather was heavy, too heavy for our sewing machines. Areas where the pleather was four layers deep were done by hand. Also, to avoid too much visible machine stitching, the edges of the vest skirt panels were turned under and glued with contact glue. This hasn't worked out, as the glue isn't reacting well with the backing on the pleather and keeps popping up. But it IS heavy pleather, so Feikoi wound up just cutting the edges off and leaving them.

    Another issue is the armour plating on the shoulders wants to pop up, since the plates won't bend over the curve and the Shoe Goo isn't strong enough to keep the tips of the plates down perfectly. I've run into the same issue on my Thorin armour and solved the problem via a drilled hole through the plate and fabric, and extra-heavy sinew thread.

    Here's the glueing of the armour.
    2015-01-23 23.26.13.jpg
    And the finished piece.

    IMG_0105.JPG IMG_0104.JPG IMG_0107.JPG

    More on this thread later, when I have time to type!
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    916
    This is really impressive! The finished version looks great. I am in awe of your skill at creating/modifying patterns. That's definitely a skill I need to learn. I'll get there! I'm still really new at all this costuming/sewing stuff. :)
     
  6. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    I think for recreating costumes it is especially hard when you are tall/short etc and the actor or character is a very different body type. The patterning gets hard then! We do a lot of draping, then squint at loads of photos, test the toile and tweak a lot. There was one pic of Feikoi I didn't put up where we were testing the placement of the diamond tile patterns on the vest.

    For Fili, getting the proportion sideways for stocky dwarves was the big issue. I'm tall, but not as tall as Richard Armitage so I didn't have to build as much sideways. Feikoi is almost the size of Dean O'Gorman, Fili's actor, so it was mainly the matter of making girly shoulders and arms bigger.

    Yup. Patterning. Drape, test, recut, test. THEN get the good fabric out. I'm not trained, so, that's how I roll, and it works very well.
     
  7. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Vambraces

    Production piece below.

    tumblr_nh48zgvp3z1r3vnt3o6_1280.jpg tumblr_nh48zgvp3z1r3vnt3o10_1280.jpg tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o4_1280.jpg

    With the production patterns for decoration as seen up in the pants comment, the most tedious part of making the vambraces was done. Feikoi printed it out to test the size and it was used for the leather tooling.

    2015-01-25 20.48.13.jpg 2015-02-02 23.21.38.jpg 2015-02-06 10.33.45.jpg

    A small snag was run into with leather dye - we had none in the right colour. I wound up using a dye for silk instead, which worked out fine. It was what we had. The buckles are just silver generic ones that were around.

    YUI_2575.JPG IMG_0115.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 19, 2015
  8. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Under Gauntlets

    tumblr_inline_ngm64fCYre1ra0v1d.gif tumblr_nh48zgvp3z1r3vnt3o7_1280.jpg tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o3_1280.jpg

    Feikoi made the under gauntlets from a brownish pleather from an adapted glove style pattern with no fingers. Because the movie gauntlet's side seam and wrist seam was over-lapped and hand sewn, the trickiest part was manoeuvring the glove in the sewing machine. Due to time constraints, the decorative stitching up the side seam and around the knuckles was left off.

    The gauntlet was tested over the muscle suit layer, as per usual for best fit.

    20150124_180033.jpg 20150124_182445.jpg 20150124_183257.jpg

    20150124_192407.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 19, 2015
  9. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Knives

    In a fit of madness, since we needed knives anyway for Fili's vambraces, I decided to make an excessive number, based on what the Elven guards pulled off him in Mirkwood forest. Onscreeen, he was divested of seven that we could see. This doesn't count his axes!

    Knife Design #1

    The hunting knives have Fili's crest as heir of the line of Durin on the hilt.
    4fac08e4913bc1766eafe310d76f384d.jpg
    There are lots of references for these online and loads of people have posted about making them, so I won't go into it too much, except to say that I followed pretty much the same process with all the knives we made.

    Being unburdened with a workshop or even many tools, and because we were running out of time, I decided to keep them simple. I printed the knife patterns, glued the pattern to thin plywood and hand-cut the blade and tang with a craft knife. Yup, a craft knife - through 1/4 plywood. Yes, my hands did hurt. I whittled a dull edge on the knives, pressed the blade design in with a dead ball point pen and called them done.
    2015-01-26 20.22.03.jpg IMG_1562.JPG

    Craft foam from the 100 yen shop was cut for the handle and glued together and basic carving done with another craft knife (this was before we got the Dremel, sadly.) We found the cheap craft foam hard to work with and carve smoothly, though I evened the handles out with some heat later. A Japanese foam called Lionboard (though it has a different trade name now I've forgotten) worked better for smooth carving. The hilt designs were burning in with a soldering iron.
    IMG_1571.JPG WT00988lg.jpg

    Gesso, sanding, more gesso and the knives were painted.

    Knife Design #2 - This is an odd leaf shaped blade we couldn’t find in any of the official Hobbit books. Hidden behind Fili - under the hood? Down the back of his coat? There's no clear shot, so I wound up just making up a design.

    vlcsnap-2015-01-11-21h31m07s38.png Untitled-1.png

    Knife Design #3 - Balin's concept knife

    0d51645163e3f1bed7ad9cb8f50e30df.jpg vlcsnap-2015-01-11-21h32m49s41.png
    How the hell did he end up with Balin’s knife? It’s clearly the one you find in the concept art books, I don’t know if we ever see Balin use it in the movie.

    Knife Design #4 - the under-lapel blade. This is a tiny one that looked from the very brief and blurry scene time we saw it a bit like his hunting knives with a brass hilt, so I based my design on that.
    tumblr_njg4xfJW1J1r0uwumo7_1280.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  10. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Knives continued, plus throwing axes

    There were also another design of knife - a paired set Fili holds up for the guard to take, with a floret rounded sort of pommel, but the exact design couldn’t be found in the books. It looked Ereborean in design, like Balin’s knife. But because I'd committed to so many already, I'd hit the limit and skipped doing those.

    Fili's throwing axes are kept in boot sheaths, and the design again is easy enough to find on the web.

    fili axew.jpg

    We had 3/4" floor mats and I attempted carving those with a craft knife (again, no Dremel tool at this point) and failed utterly.
    2015-01-30 15.14.54.jpg
    With a 'screw this' frame of mind, I decided I'd cut them, do a little basic carving on the edges to make them sharper and just gessoed and painted them.

    My design for the mini-lapel knife, based on his hunting knives.
    lapel blade.jpg

    Here's the progress pics for the bulk of the knives.
    IMG_1567.JPG IMG_1572.JPG IMG_1574.JPG IMG_1587.JPG

    I didn't bother doing the detail paint work on the Balin knife, but saved that creative energy for doing a passable 3-d style painting on the throwing axes instead to give the illusion of depth. The axes were finished with suede and a Sharpie for the line details. They also have magnets under the suede that hook to magnets in the axe sheaths to keep them from falling out. The foam axes worked out well, being exceptionally light when the whole of the costume was so heavy.

    For some of the extra knives, pocket sheaths were sewn into the lining of the coat. We haven't figured out what to do with the leaf blade that goes under/in his hood yet, though.
    20150202_110802.jpg IMG_0115.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 19, 2015
  11. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Knives and Axes, completed and painted.

    The two tiny shiny knives are from the 100 yen shop, the joke theatre type that has a blade that compresses into the handle when you stab someone. We figured it'd be fun to have those and the hilts were painted to match the rest.

    I wound up being inordinately proud of the paint on the axes. You would hardly know that it's just flat foam, the illusion of depth is very good, in my opinion.

    2015-01-31 23.08.07.jpg 2015-01-31 23.08.17.jpg 2015-02-02 00.11.25.jpg

    Continuing the build thread later.
     
    Guri likes this.
  12. feikoi

    feikoi New Member

    Trophy Points:
    3
    curse my (relatively) delicate hands and forearms
    JG, you are a lifesaver for cutting that plywood for me (and, yanno, ALL THE OTHER WORK YOU DID jfc). I am a weakling. I am now remembering how fun foam+dremel was though -- I gotta finish those sword hilts...
     
  13. feikoi

    feikoi New Member

    Trophy Points:
    3
    It really helps to have a dress form or another person to do draping. I taught myself pattern-drafting/scaling from Japanese goth-loli magazines, and kind of hate using commercial patterns myself. Getting a dress form and just playing with fabric on it was pretty amazing in terms of understanding how seams and darts should work, and why they are where they are. (Or if you don't have a dress form, a patient friend you can bribe with cookies works too for practice, lol)
     
  14. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Boots and Axe Sheaths

    Production boots:
    2014-12-29 15.07.11.png tumblr_nh48zgvp3z1r3vnt3o5_1280.jpg tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o9_1280.jpg tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o2_1280.jpg

    Feikoi was lucky enough to find suitable boots with straps already in place in the States, so not much needed to be done to the boots aside from adding the axe sheaths. They were a touch tall, so the tops were folded in to correct height.
    20150124_192345.jpg


    The axe sheaths were made last minute from a thin pleather with a backing of hard cardboard. A wide double leather back-strap connects the two sheaths, with stitching to make channels for the straps of the boots to pass through. (The boot straps were functional as well as decorative and could be unbuckled.)

    2015-02-08 18.02.10.jpg

    Feikoi reports that the pleather fought hard, hated her sewing machine, slid and bunched.

    On first wearing, the pleather's stretch wasn't enough to keep the axes from falling out when feikoi knelt or caught them. Small strong magnets were purchased from the 100 yen and glued under the leather handle of the axes and for expediency and speed, corresponding magnets were duct-taped to the sheaths.

    IMG_3174.JPG


    Feikoi wants to make the sheaths again from something more substantial for the next wearing.

    IMG_0116.JPG IMG_0117.JPG IMG_0118.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2015
  15. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    The Coat part 1

    The most time consuming part of the build was the coat. Fili's coat is a heavy suede with patterning along the hems of the skirts, around the cuff and up the sleeve. The Cloaks and Daggers book says that they achieved the effect with laser cut leather pressed into the suede.

    2015-02-08 18.01.58.jpg Dec 2014 001.JPG Dec 2014 067.JPG

    The Costume Trail pics show a lot more details. The coat has raglan style sleeve with the sleeve pattern disappearing up under the fur collar. The hems are stitched in a double row and the suede edges not turned under. The coat has a waist seam and a waist clasp of a fancy stitched loop and self-wrapped leather toggle. The wrist pattern is mostly covered by the turn-back of the fur cuff and usually hidden entirely by the vambraces. The 4 bottom panels only slightly overlap at the waist sides and back.

    The seams were overlapped and double stitched in black, nothing turned in.

    The fur collar type is unknown - Dean O'Gorman claims in the Cloaks books that it's some special kind of big cat, though he doesn't actually know.

    Of interest to people who despise hot costumes - like so many of the pieces on the Hobbit (Bard's coat, Kili's, Thorin's brig armour), the sleeves are not completely attached and the armpit area is left open.

    tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o6_1280.jpg tumblr_nh48zgvp3z1r3vnt3o3_1280.jpg tumblr_nh48zgvp3z1r3vnt3o4_1280.jpg
    tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o4_1280.jpg

    Pattern pieces below:
    1. The side back and centre back body, and the front of the jacket.
    2. The sleeve. The farthest left edge is the centre back, and the bottom is the front of the arm.
    3. The front panel and back panels, and the lower piece is the front lapel. I didn't take a pic of the back of the collar.

    IMG_1658.JPG IMG_1657.JPG IMG_1659.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  16. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    The Coat Part 2

    Fitting the arms with the odd decorative shaping on the shoulders was tough. It involved a lot of pinning and sketching based on eye-balling the original coat. Below is the toile test piece.

    2015-01-15 21.40.48.jpg 2015-01-15 21.42.06.jpg

    Then came the really hard part - the pressed leather look. Some people would have given up and just painted it on. Not Feikoi.

    As she did on the knee pad of the pants, the pattern was sized from the production pic that can be seen up in the pants comment, printed and 2.5 mm craft foam carved with a craft knife. Due to the large amount of decoration this took some time.

    The fabric she purchased looked like a very nice brown suede, and the lining was a cotton in a traditional Japanese ikat design she dyed brown. The craft foam was sandwiched between these two layers.

    Because the pressed pattern meant that the width and length of the top fabric would shrink up when pressed into the crevices of craft foam, the pattern pieces could NOT be pre cut to the correct pattern size. The pattern was traced on the fabric with a decent amount of space between each to allow for the shrinkage and any mistakes, and the final trimming cut the piece to correct size.

    The process went like this: a huge plastic sheet was laid on the floor and the cotton lining fabric laid on top, inner side up and the printed decorative side down. A spray glue was used to place the craft foam pieces so the pieces didn't slide.

    From Feikoi's Tumblr post on the build:

    "Technically, I used spray glue to attach the foam patterns to the lining fabric, but the rubber cement (ゴムのり) I used elsewhere would have been more secure. When attaching the outside fabric, the rubber cement was applied to the lining /around/ the foam in a small section (usually diagonally, following the lines of the foam piece) and allowed to set to become tacky. Having the glue on top of the foam as well isn’t necessary – probably doesn’t hurt anything, but it’s easier without, oddly.

    After that, the suede fabric was lightly and loosely laid across the glued section, and pressed carefully into the recessed areas with fingers and the wooden sticks. I would go back and jam the fabric tightly into the edges and corners with the sticks again every so often, as the glue set more. It was pretty easy to tell how it was working, since all the pressing would ruck up the pile of the suede cloth, and lightly smoothing along the top with my hand would make the raised sections stand out in color.

    Warning – this may take you ages. Each of the four skirt panels took 3-5 hours to glue, and the sleeves took an hour and a half each, I believe (I did them last). This does not include the stencil design and cutting (there are three types), or the foam tracing and cutting time. The panels were laid flat and allowed to dry/cure overnight. I used 2.5mm soft eva craft foam (not lion board)."

    Feikoi took as much care as possible to avoid egregious wrinkling, and this process went on over days. The bottom panels alone took 3-5 hours a panel. They were first pieces done, and feikoi got faster as she went on.

    2015-02-08 18.01.30.jpg 2015-02-08 18.01.37.jpg 2015-02-08 18.01.41.jpg 2015-02-08 18.01.42.jpg

    2015-02-08 18.01.51.jpg 2015-02-08 18.02.01.jpg

    Above - two finished panels before trimming to size.

    Keep in mind that the pattern was on four bottom panels, the length of the sleeves and she even did the cuffs though they were not likely to be seen.

    If you go this route, it'll take a while. The craft foam is flexible but gave the fabric a certain weight and stiffness, which was not unlike the actual production coat's heavy suede.

    Finishing the coat: Feikoi was working on another part of the costume, so I took up the final construction phase.

    The fur I used for the collar was a smallish, cheap elf or caribou hide that seemed an appropriate texture and colour. I had to jigger pieces carefully to get all the collar and cuffs done, though the cuff fur direction ended up going sideways instead of up.

    Fili’s coat seams are laid over each other and top stitched in two rows with thick black thread, so that's what I did.

    Some pockets for knives were attached to the lining, with plans for more to be done later. Since the cotton lining is effectively glued to the suede fabric, the hems were not turned under, just cut and edged with stitching. The glue will prevent much fraying.

    The fur collar and cuffs aren’t backed with anything - the leather was thick enough it didn’t need it - and are only zigzag stitched on at the moment.

    We ran out of time to do the toggle closure, and currently the coat is closed with a giant baby safety pin that no one sees since it's mostly covered by the fur collar and the belt.

    - - - Updated - - -

    The Coat Part 3 - Finished (for the time being)

    IMG_0111.JPG IMG_0109.JPG IMG_0112.JPG IMG_0113.JPG IMG_0114.JPG

    Done posting for the night. Next - the inner belt, the outer belt, wig, moustache and beads (we cheated on beads) and final cosplay pictures. Probably not all in one night.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2015
    Guri likes this.
  17. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    916
    I am in awe of your skills! The paint job on the axes is stunning - I never would have known it wasn't a raised pattern if you hadn't mentioned it! Everything looks so authentic. You've chosen great materials!

    I do actually have a dress form and have started doing a tiny bit of draping (so far just a long skirt with soft pleats/folds, but I also have to drape the bodice for the costume at some point so that will be more difficult!) but am just starting to get into it. I am not great at reading/modifying patterns yet, but I'm learning! I should actually take some lessons at some point, instead of just trying to learn on my own from online tutorials and trial and error, lol.
     
  18. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Trial error works so well for me! If you have the crappy fabric to spare... Yard sales. Old sheets. Things like that, that you don't mind scragging.

    Draping bodices can be tricky. *. PRINCESS seams that go over them correctly. That sort of thing.

    As for lessons, well. My mom taught me enough to go on with, so that when I wound up in home ec class I was impatient. Though I did learn the importance of pinning nicely. You get so much online from tutorials. For harder projects (my Sherlock coat, for example) I bought a tailoring book and sweated over it. It was invaluable. People learn things differently. I like books and visuals - classes tend to be slow. Other people work better if it's shown them directly in person. Whatever works for you!

    Ain't that Fili coat great though? It's such a great piece.

    The good thing about the axes - we talked about molding them. This cheap option of foam worked well - if we lose one, it's no great matter. (I made six just in case we did.) And they are light weight. It would be terrible to have the trouble of sculpting and molding the axes in plastic or even wood only to lose or break one. Also, with the magnets in them, we use them on the fridge.
     
  19. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    916
    I just ran out of mock-up fabric (I found cotton broadcloth on sale for under $2/m a couple of years ago, and bought 10m, but I finally used the last of it on Bilbo's vest) so I'll have to keep an eye out for more. Luckily, it's getting into yard sale season here so I will have to see what I can find.

    I'm building this particular bodice mostly over top of an existing corset, and most of it will be covered by detail/armour(ish) pieces so hopefully it won't be too tricky. But I do need one sleeve, and to figure out how to attach the sleeve to the rest of the bodice. I will have to do some tests. But it's not urgent - if I can get it done for the next con I might wear it there, but my priority is my husband's Baymax (the white inflatable version). I have no idea where to even start with that one, lol!

    I tend to learn best in person, though some of the tutorials I've found online have been great. But I find for more tricky stuff I can't always figure it out from tutorials and videos. I have some very knowledgeable friends (and my mom!) who have been willing to help me out so far but I don't want to abuse their generosity too much!

    OMG I love the idea of putting them on the fridge. I would totally do that, except that my cats (okay, just one of them) would probably run off with them and destroy them, lol.
     
  20. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Inner Belt

    This is a piece rarely seen, as it's over the shirt and under the vest, coat and the other belt. The pattern for it can be seen in the book page below in the middle above the vambrace pattern. It looks like a thick woven piece and has a pattern, possibly painted upon it.



    Biwz3sNCEAAu9_l.jpg large.jpg the_hobbit_braids_dori_fili_nori_ori_1920x1080_38500 - Copy.jpg Untitled-1 (2).jpg

    A cheap canvas belt was purchased and painted brown. Feikoi cut a stencil from cardboard and painted the pattern in black acrylic. From her blog post:

    "As for the belt stencil, a word to the wise – enough paint will eventually make your stencil very soggy, even if you use cardboard like I did, so make multiples or maybe even coat it with something waterproof. In the stencil pictured, I used the pattern on the right, simplified to remove the dots inside the triangles and connecting the crown points to the diagonals. I then cut and removed the white sections, leaving a somewhat delicate stencil (hence the disintegration)."

    20150123_131048.jpg IMG_0100.JPG
    For wearing, the modern buckle was moved to the back so as not to be seen.

    The Belt

    Production Costume Belt below

    Thanks to the Costume Trail pics, you can see the belt quite clearly. All different types and shades of brown leather, laced down to a backing of thin leather and each other with thin strips in black. A section underlaps in the front while the double belt tongues overlap and are tucked into decorative loops. The buckles and findings are dark silvery metal, pitted.

    tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o5_1280.jpg tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o7_1280.jpg tumblr_nh4as93LJX1r3vnt3o10_1280.jpg tumblr_nh48zgvp3z1r3vnt3o8_1280.jpg

    2015-02-08 18.02.08 1.jpg
     
    Yrien likes this.
  21. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    The Belt continued

    A million carefully cut pieces of leather, two million holes punched and sore hands later, feikoi finished the belt. The back leather was a scrap piece with a particularly ugly finish that was sacrificed and pieced for length. Feikoi bought several types of brown leathers in scraps to make up the overlapping pieces.

    2015-02-08 18.00.40.jpg 2015-02-08 18.00.52.jpg 2015-02-08 18.00.56.jpg 2015-02-08 18.01.00.jpg

    Lacing took some time to copy the real costume belt as closely as possible.

    2015-02-08 18.01.13.jpg 2015-02-08 18.01.20.jpg 2015-02-08 18.01.24.jpg



    Belt Findings - feikoi had hoped to make them from Worbla but time constraints meant they were made from a type of eva foam, gesso, painted and aged slightly.

    20150203_104759.jpg 2015-02-08 18.02.08 1.jpg 20150204_133521.jpg
     
    Yrien likes this.
  22. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Finished Belt
    IMG_0113.JPG IMG_0110.JPG

    Feikoi's final comments on the belt from her Tumblr:

    "SO PROUD OF THIS BELT
    As far as I could count from the Costume Trail pictures, there should be 11-13 columns of tiles. I put in 13, though I will be reducing it to 12 and making the buckle straps shorter, as it proved to be a little too loose in action. (Good thing I didn’t finish the ties off in the back permanently ^^) Another word to the wise – make sure your belt tips will fit through the buckle. The belt loops were wide, and so not a problem, but only the fact that all the belt findings were foam and thus slightly flexible make this doable. The leather tiles are approximately 5x7cm each – a pattern post will go up later. IT IS ALL TO ACCURATE SCALE I AM SO HAPPY"


    Wig Beads - Ha. WE DIDN'T MAKE ANY and have no intention of doing so. There's a seller on Etsy that we will eventually get a set from. But because the convention was so close, we improvised decorative beads. I'd found these sort of clasp things for purse straps or maybe curtain cords (no idea) that could be pinched closed. They were silver and gold, and in the sales section of a craft store, so I bought them, knowing we'd need them for this eventuality. And we did.

    When the time came for finishing the moustache braids and hair braids, Feikoi tied off the braids with hair elastics. For the wide braid at the back of the wig, the clasp was partially flattened and folded around the braid. For the smaller braids, the clasps were just pinched around the barid. Actually, they were easier to use than real beads.

    The Wig, Moustache and Beard

    Fili’s golden mane:

    Dec 2014 068.JPG hair.jpg
    Although feikoi has hair about a metre long and in the same approximate colour, it was decided to use a wig that could be pre-styled and left alone.
    2015-02-08 18.00.51.jpg tumblr_niu1rkFtIb1rkxwnho2_1280.jpg tumblr_niu1rkFtIb1rkxwnho3_1280.jpg tumblr_niu1rkFtIb1rkxwnho4_1280.jpg

    From Feikoi's Tumblr: The wig came in from Alibaba! Last two images are color adjusted to what it approximately looks like in my apartment lights. Also with test braids in :3 It’s not exactly the color I expected (this has a few brown streaks scattered through it), but I like it. And it’s so soft! Texture can be a major worry when ordering online. :)
    This is my first time ordering off of aliexpress, so I was a little nervous. I spent a week or two sorting through listings, since obviously the super cheap things are, well, cheaply made, and some images were also obviously ganked from other sellers…

    I decided on this wig based on several factors: the seller’s rating, lacefront, 150%+ density, curls and top volume, 24”+ length, and large size wig base (also elastic/open between back lefts, not solid lace, since I have a LOT of hair to fit under it). Some sellers also offer a choice in lace color, which is nice for blending. I purchased the first color option for this item, with added DHL shipping because my event is soon. It still only came to about $65 dollars, and it’s very nice quality. It even has a bit of a widow’s peak in it! (I wasn’t sure if this one typically had it, so I included a note with the order requesting one.^^)


    Next - Wig styling
     
    Yrien likes this.
  23. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Wig Styling and other parts

    2015-02-08 18.00.51.jpg tumblr_njgdbwtPeQ1r0uwumo2_1280.jpg

    From Feikoi's Tumblr: Fili wig, before and after brushing. (Please excuse the extreme mess ^^;; The ends of the wig are looped up onto the desk, since it was making the styrofoam head slowly topple over…) While brushing it out, I noticed I may have to use those wefts I picked up in the US for added volume after straightening. Dwarf heads are big. XD It also may be useful to make the earlock braids a little thicker…

    It looks like I’ll only have to relax the curls slightly after this - supposedly a flat iron is okay to use on it (we’ll certainly see). I like wavy-haired!Fili, but the current state is still a bit too curly.

    For anyone new to curly wigs, this is what happens when you take a brush to it. Generally speaking, you’re not supposed to brush (or even comb) wigs with ringlets or sausage curls, as they will split and fluff/frizz out, and it can be very difficult to impossible to make them go back. Cheaper or custom wigs also often have the curls sealed into place, so brushing breaks the bonds or causes frizzy snarls to happen, if you can separate them at all. So be careful! If you want neat-looking curls, never brush. If you want a cloudy mass (like I’ve done here and for my Scarlet Witch wig), take your time and work with small sections at a time, brushing the tips out first.


    2015-02-08 18.01.53.jpg 2015-02-08 18.01.57.jpg
    Cutting and Styling above.

    Moustache and Beard

    The moustache was hand-ventilated on fine lace mesh using a sewing needle.
    tumblr_ngra1g46pw1qh5xqho3_1280.jpg 20150206_122520.jpg

    From Feikoi: "Heck yes, lace ventilation! This is done with a big sewing needle just small enough to pass easily through the beige tulle (the soft fancy dress kind). I learned this method from firewolf826’s cosplay tutorial. It was done pretty heavy handedly, 4 to 10 strands per stitch in every other hole, because the wig fiber was fine and well, fancy braided moustache. It really should be a /little/ wider on my face, but I ran out of time.

    Fun facts! I did most of this at work. All my coworkers kept finding reasons to pass by my desk and ask questions about it, or freak out thinking I cut my hair. (I had a good ponytail sized bundle sitting on my desk – jessamygriffin is threatening to leave it on my pillow one morning as a prank. CRUEL) I had done this a little bit last year, for Bilbo’s foot wigs, and they know I cosplay, so they’ll probably be expecting pictures when I see them this week. ^^;;

    The beard is originally one of those wide Abe Lincoln ones. Due to time constraints, I just added in a few stitches of the wig hair across the middle to tie in the yellower color a bit, chopped off the sides /in the dressing room, and used about eight bobby pins to make it look cropped around my chin."



    We ran out of time to do the beads or order the beads but had filigree little purse cord things that could be clipped around the braids to finish them, or flattened for the wide piece on the top back braid. Better beads will be forthcoming!

    The beard was purchased in the US and is human hair, a copy of the Rubies brand one. The moustache was wefted by feikoi from straightened hair left over from the wig. About 8 inches was cut from the wig.

    YUI_0582.JPG YUI_0520.JPG
     
    Yrien likes this.
  24. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    So, we did wind up bodging the twin swords from plywood (handcut with a craft knife again!) but have yet to make up the back sheath or to finish the sword hilts. But we have done some cosplay pics.

    From start to finish, it took us a month to make the above, and both of us have full time jobs. This costume became the second job. It had a fantastic debut at Movie Paradise con in Tokyo - the last movie had just started showing and there were tons of Hobbit cosplayers at the event.

    B9OF8dQCMAAkQx1.jpg large.jpg

    From the same event:

    B9OCnEcCQAAUKRl copy.jpg YUI_0575.JPG YUI_0522.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2015
    Yrien likes this.
  25. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    From a shoot in Odawara:

    YUI_2571.JPG YUI_3133.JPG

    YUI_2783.JPG tumblr_nl1q2ilIhs1r0uwumo1_1280.jpg tumblr_nl3sc9eQuF1rkxwnho6_1280.jpg
    tumblr_nl3sc9eQuF1rkxwnho5_1280.jpg
    tumblr_nlexzdfQMS1r0uwumo3_1280.jpg tumblr_nl3sc9eQuF1rkxwnho2_1280.jpg
    tumblr_nlexzdfQMS1r0uwumo2_1280.jpg tumblr_nlexzdfQMS1r0uwumo1_1280.jpg

    thorin: jessamygriffin
    bilbo: @cbhuman on Twitter
    fili: feikoi
    kili: yamane02 on Tumblr
    photographer: yuichiiiiii on Tumblr
    part of our COSZIP5 shoot in Odawara on 3/8/2015

    Thanks for reading, and if we ever do the sword sheath, there'll be one last update!


    YUI_2783.JPG

    YUI_2571.JPG

    YUI_3133.JPG

    YUI_2721.JPG

    tumblr_nl1q2ilIhs1r0uwumo1_1280.jpg

    tumblr_nl3sc9eQuF1rkxwnho6_1280.jpg

    tumblr_nlexzdfQMS1r0uwumo2_1280.jpg

    tumblr_nl3sc9eQuF1rkxwnho2_1280.jpg

    tumblr_nlexzdfQMS1r0uwumo3_1280.jpg

    tumblr_nl3sc9eQuF1rkxwnho5_1280.jpg

    tumblr_nlexzdfQMS1r0uwumo1_1280.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
    Yrien likes this.
  26. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    916
    Really great location for those pics! The Fili costume (and everyone else's!) turned out fantastic. Thanks for sharing the process. :)
     
  27. gothic

    gothic Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,426
    looks great, attention to detail is amazing :thumbsup
     
  28. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Thank you! And the killer thing is, there could have been so much MORE attention to detail. We never made special buckles for Fili's vambraces, for example. Still haven't bought the hair beads, too. Ah well.
     
  29. gothic

    gothic Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,426
    I think you could go mad going for every little detail and most of the builds on here i bet people are not 100% happy there finished. The best thing about this forum is that your get constructive criticism (trim this, make that wider ect) and they appriciate the level of time and effort people put into there work......................and if any one comes up to you at a CON and says "actually its sunset yellow not yellow" then there not worth your time :)
     
  30. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Oddly, I never considered putting up the actual WIP build things for the Thorin costume here when I was building it. Though I did check the RPF for other build blogs. It might have been helpful.

    Ah, the authenticity police. I've heard tell of them, particularly from the reenactment community. Sadly for me, none of them have ever had the displeasure of encountering and saying something like that me. I wouldn't take it well, depending on their approach. It's a hobby, it ought to be fun.
     
  31. gothic

    gothic Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,426
    yeah i was named and shamed because my Darth Vader cloak was 10mm to long.................yes it was my fault i was tired, the convention was the next day and now...... im a broken man pmsl :lol
     
    jessamygriffin likes this.
  32. Guri

    Guri Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,206
    Thank you so much for posting your in progress and the details of how you did everything. It is incredibly impressive and informative.

    I was just about to start my husband's Fili and was dreading doing all the research because I don't have a lot of time and here I find your amazing resource... I seriously can't thank you enough!! And it looks FANTASTIC!!!! :love
     
  33. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    362
    Thank you so much! I'm glad you like it and that we can help!

    If there's something you need, like the patterns feikoi did on Photoshop from the production book (easier and clean for stencil cutting) let me know, I'll post those up as well. I ought to do that anyway, since they are a good resource. I shall ask her forthwith. Once you get those, you can size them on your PC for what fits your pattern best, and use them as paint stencils or whatever. Keep on eye on the thread.

    On another note, for the raised patterning, I saw another post. If you decide to go that way (and it will take time, any way you do it) and prefer using a sewing machine, this girl did it very successfully on this post on Tumblr here.
     
    Guri likes this.
  34. Guri

    Guri Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,206
    The patterns would be really helpful, if you have time for it. I have a pretty good eye, but it does take time.

    My plans right now are to only make the pants, boots, wrist guards, fingerless gloves, under robe and the leather(I'm using vinyl) vest. I'm going to skip the coat because this is for Dcon and it'll be way too hot.

    His wig just came in yesterday! Weee!
     
  35. feikoi

    feikoi New Member

    Trophy Points:
    3
    Re: alternate method from tumblr: I don't know if I'd have the patience to do the sewing, but it looks like more durable and more flexible than the foam and glue! Just two cents from someone who's done it, lol. Their finished pattern is less pronounced than mine, but it also will never separate, so, go them. :D (I might have to try this when I redo the pants. Those bloody pants, urgh.)

    Anyway, I'm including the pattern pieces here -- sorry to take so long to get them up. I have some notes and tips written in the captions. The original coat, I discovered from some screencaps, has different width skirt panels in the front. WHY, I DON'T KNOW. I just did the same for both, but if you want to do it more accurately, I have both panel designs up. The panels are trapezoidal, so I have some lines marking the angles at which the tall trim should be aligned included.

    Fili Reference and Patterns - Album

    A few thumbnails from the album:
    fili-coat%u0025252520trim.png
    fili-kneepad.png fili-vambrace-b2.png
    IMG_3751.JPG

    Note on the leather belt (above) -- there are two long horizontal bands, each a little more than a centimeter wide. (Should be 1.5, but I don't remember if the leather I had available was actually that width.) The top one is visible, but the bottom one comes under the tiles and over the vertical anchor strip.

    Follow the album link for more reference material and patterns!
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page