Fifth Element: Grandfather say it never rain every day, Good News Guaranteed !!!


Vacformedhero

Sr Member
I have decided to post my work on the mr Kim's flying junk restaurant .
I really love the overall humour of the Fifth Element movie, and many specific scenes are brilliant ,Korben Dallas being smashed over the head by the priest, the shoot out in the opera, the ""negotiations"" with the mangalore, Zorgs "I know this music, let's change the beat",Ruby Rhod !, and finally a beautifully shot little interaction between Mr Kim and Korben Dallas.
i have always wanted to have this as a model, and decided recently when a question was posted on the rpf to the availability of a kit that I started mine. I had been thinking a while on how I could scratch build it and went ahead with it.
here was my first posting where I had started the hero side of the junk .
 

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Vacformedhero

Sr Member
Once I started I brought all the raw materials (scalpel, lollipop sticks and superglue) on holidays with me, I tell you it's very relaxing on holidays in between activities to sit down and concentrate on something , and everyone leaves you alone .
I finished two sides and the front. I cut lollipop sticks into widths that matched the planking on the junk, there are a few different thicknesses required so initially I used the very with lollipop sticks sold in bulk in art stores.
i had drawn up a drawing , initially too small for my liking, which I changed and now the model will be approx 1:24 scale looking at Kim chan's height 1.73 metres against the set.
the junk in the movie was only ever a full size set comprising of the junk which was mounted on a gimbal, the engine details were added afterwards I believe.
once home and I started to think about the finish of the model.
I reproved a lot of the details where there was narrow planking, I had found that the narrower stirring sticks supplied in coffee shops were the exact width I needed for some of the planks. So I removed a few of the ones I felt I had not done correctly and redid with cleaner sticks.
here she is after second fillers have been applied and newer sticks being held in place by clamps.
 

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Vacformedhero

Sr Member
I have to admit this method of building is very therapeutic I can see why people enjoy planking large scale ship models.
Now my thoughts turned to finishing the junk and final assembly.
originally I thought that the junks narrowing at the front and rear (I know Prow and Stern) were angular , but having looked and gathered multiple screen grabs the side walls of the junk are curved.
My original reason for using lollipop sticks was to give the correct scale texture to the boat, and the fact of cutting the actual planking would add to the believability however I am now faced with having to deal with this curved side issue.
to that end I think the only solution is to create silicone moulds of the sides and cast them in resin.
i can then heat and set them on a curved former to shape the correct side profile.

I am covering some new skills here having never done any castings before, and also not knowing the limitations on resin being able to take this type of reforming , can any one see any difficulties I might have ?
 

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Vacformedhero

Sr Member
Not happy with some of the planking so going thorough it again to make sure I am satisfied, also started my first ever sculpt , mini I'll admit using wire from a whisk and aluminium tape
still looking to mould this so trying to ensure junk is as crisp as possible .
image.jpg image.jpg
 

ProfKSergeev

Sr Member
still looking to mould this so trying to ensure junk is as crisp as possible

Nice work, but if you were planning on molding this with any kind of rubber or latex, it will be impossible due to the wood's porousness. Either redo the junk in plastic with faux wood grain (you could even leave this till the painting stage), or keep it a one-off.
 

Vacformedhero

Sr Member
Nice work, but if you were planning on molding this with any kind of rubber or latex, it will be impossible due to the wood's porousness. Either redo the junk in plastic with faux wood grain (you could even leave this till the painting stage), or keep it a one-off.
Would release agent not prevent the pores from allowing silicon in?
 

rbeach84

Sr Member
Just seal the wood grain! Use some kind of thin varnish to seal it without losing all the wood grain texture (research the compatibility with silicone, of course.) Make sure and use a mold release and a thin RTV to capture the fine detail.
Regards, Robert
 
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