Fettastic ESB EE-3 Found Parts Build

BobaFettSlave_1

Well-Known Member
Nice!
I'm still not entirely convinced the Molex Connectors we have access to today are the same model/version as those used in the filming of ESB. If you look at your molex's you'll see a line of 4 small circular markings in between the 6 hole pattern on the front face. Looking at any clear shot of the molex's in the film, you'll see that the two center ones of these appear to be actual holes (likely for locating/grounding pins of some kind) rather than filled in casting markings like on the new ones. I ended up drilling these two holes out on all the molex's on my build until I can find some more original ones

Molex.jpg
 

Dann

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I thought that was common knowledge about the holes in the middle of the Molex connectors?

Of course, I left that detail out on my printed blaster. I do have a set of real Molex connectors, though, and they WILL get the holes drilled!
 

Fettastic

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Nice!
I'm still not entirely convinced the Molex Connectors we have access to today are the same model/version as those used in the filming of ESB. If you look at your molex's you'll see a line of 4 small circular markings in between the 6 hole pattern on the front face. Looking at any clear shot of the molex's in the film, you'll see that the two center ones of these appear to be actual holes (likely for locating/grounding pins of some kind) rather than filled in casting markings like on the new ones. I ended up drilling these two holes out on all the molex's on my build until I can find some more original ones

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Do we have any images of an actual molex manufactured with those small holes?
 

BobaFettSlave_1

Well-Known Member
Do we have any images of an actual molex manufactured with those small holes?
Not as of yet. It would be interesting to find what these connectors actually went to that they salvaged them from so to see what vintage ones actually look like. I tend to lean more towards the mindset of this being a manufactured feature rather than something added in by the film makers later on, but who honestly knows haha.
 

Dann

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here's the progression of this last attempt at painting my printed stock. Sorry for all the pics, I should probably put these in my thread, but you asked for pics, so I'll put them here. ;)
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I believe that's 3 passes with various brown washes, and a touch of some highlights at the very end.

It may have been fine after that second pass, though. I just don't know when to stop, it seems!!
 

Fettastic

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Recently got this found part 4x20 scope with accurate tall feet Hero scope mounts. Call me a sucker for brand matching but I love the idea of having an accurate found part Webley & Scott no.1 mkI with an accurate found part Webley and Scott 4x20 scope to sit on top. Keep in mind there are many brands of 4x20 scopes that fit all the identifiers of the screen used scope. I’m just glad webley made one too

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Important identifiers:
Plastic eyepiece
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Made in Japan
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Infinity sign
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Correct retaining ring
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Correct optical bell with bevel lip
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Windage adjustments about 2/3rds offset behind the eyepiece
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Tall Fett Hero scope mounts
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Attachments

Fettastic

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Not necessarily a found part yet since I don’t believe it has been 100% identified but this piece comes very close to what we see in reference photos as the pipe clamp that goes on the back barrel mount. I think it’s the best actual clamp without modification that I’ve seen yet. I don’t believe I will have to grind it down to fit inside the barrel mount but we’ll see when I get those.

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ID can be less than 2 inches which fits perfectly towards the back end of the webley barrel
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Width is just under 3/4 of an inch or approximately 11/16 of an inch
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BobaFettSlave_1

Well-Known Member
Yeah Marv just shot me one of those to try and modify my mounts to fit as well, and everything was going swell until I realized the width was 11/16th (about 17.5mm). For a second I thought it'd be as simple as extending the width of the clip because its not that big a difference, but then I remembered that the width of the clips is limited by the Molex Connectors to something around 16-16.5mm in order for them to just slightly extend beyond the front of the clips while the back of the Molex's act like a Stop on the back of the clip, as seen on the Hero blaster. So one would have to trim at least a mm off the pipe clamp in order for it to hide underneath the clip. The bottom tang on this one also extends a lot further below the built in one on my current version of the rear clip which is set at the estimated length of the Heros
There's a lot of weird stuff going on with that rear barrel clip/clamp and I've never really been able to make complete sense out of it because the math just never really adds up engineering wise. It makes sense to me that it would be a separate internal pipe clamp such as this underneath the rear clip, but the major issue I have with all of the ones we've seen so far is that I don't see any sort of separation line between the clip and would be pipe clamp in any of the reference photos, which means at the very least they would have to be exactly the same width as one another.. And perhaps more importantly the wrap around band on the plastic clip would have to be VERY thin in order for it to both fit one of these pipe clamps underneath it but also not appear overly bulky on the blaster like modern clips do. Almost about the same thickness as one another assuming the pipe clamp band is of a similar thickness to this one, but this would in turn make the plastic clip itself very fragile on its own if they are two wholly separate parts from one another... It's just weird..
 

Fettastic

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Shoot, I was hoping it wasn't as wide as your plastic barrel mount. Well, 1mm isn't too bad but yeah the bulkyness is my main concern. My initial plan was to grind the inside of the barrel mount down as to make a cavity for the clamp to reside in and then use JB weld to fuse them together. I just don't want it to be too bulky.
 
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