Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke (Finished on page 7)
- Thread starter NormanF
- Start date
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
You know, when I started this I thought, "This should only take a month or two". :facepalm
Anyway, now that Halloween is over I did some more work on this. I mostly have the ring at the right height (about an 1/8 of an inch too short) and thickness.. Now the decision I have to make is some further shaping. In some of my reference pictures it looks like there is a slight curve to the bottom 2/3 of the ring. I am not sure if I want to do that or just go with what I've got. Next week I will make my decision and try to work on it some more while also working on my Secret Santa gift and making some pie for Thanksgiving. Sorry there are not any pictures, but there is not much to show at the moment.
You know, when I started this I thought, "This should only take a month or two". :facepalm
Anyway, now that Halloween is over I did some more work on this. I mostly have the ring at the right height (about an 1/8 of an inch too short) and thickness.. Now the decision I have to make is some further shaping. In some of my reference pictures it looks like there is a slight curve to the bottom 2/3 of the ring. I am not sure if I want to do that or just go with what I've got. Next week I will make my decision and try to work on it some more while also working on my Secret Santa gift and making some pie for Thanksgiving. Sorry there are not any pictures, but there is not much to show at the moment.
Scrap Droids
Member
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
No I haven't forgotten about this thread.....Where is some mininuke?
I have a garage thats been needing detonation I mean cleaning....
No I haven't forgotten about this thread.....Where is some mininuke?
I have a garage thats been needing detonation I mean cleaning....
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
I was actually going to get back to work on this. A lot of drama was going on with the family, but is now over.
So the end ring. What I have now is a bit too short and too thick. The plan had been to use a dremel to sand it into the general shape and then finish it by hand. Turns out cured Apoxy Sculpt is hard stuff. I think it will be easier to just do it over and get more of the final shape before the Apoxy hardens. The problem with that is I used a cardboard tube that oatmeal came in for the inner form and pretty much ruined what I did not use. I am still eating that oatmeal and do not have anywhere to store anymore. So I either have to eat more oatmeal or find an alternate form. In fantasy land it will be something I can put in a lathe to help sand everything to a final shape.
I would like to get this done so I can move on to other projects. Good thing I have not taken deposits.
Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
I was actually going to get back to work on this. A lot of drama was going on with the family, but is now over.
So the end ring. What I have now is a bit too short and too thick. The plan had been to use a dremel to sand it into the general shape and then finish it by hand. Turns out cured Apoxy Sculpt is hard stuff. I think it will be easier to just do it over and get more of the final shape before the Apoxy hardens. The problem with that is I used a cardboard tube that oatmeal came in for the inner form and pretty much ruined what I did not use. I am still eating that oatmeal and do not have anywhere to store anymore. So I either have to eat more oatmeal or find an alternate form. In fantasy land it will be something I can put in a lathe to help sand everything to a final shape.
I would like to get this done so I can move on to other projects. Good thing I have not taken deposits.
Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
Guess who bought some oatmeal last week. This guy!
Peel off the paper and mark it up to help shape the apoxie sculpt.
After I marked up the tube I thought, "Hmm, can I just resin the tube itself and be done with it?" So I put the main body on top of the tube and did some measurement. Not only can I not do that, but I need to make the tube thicker or the ring is going to be almost 1/4" inch or 6mm thick. Way too much. So I wrapped the cardboard in card stock and marked it again.
A side benefit is that it takes care of the relative canyon between layers of cardboard from when it was made.
So this week I'm going to use the apoxie sculpt to form the ring. I am trying to decide whether to do it in one piece or do the part of the ring that goes all the way around and then add the four extensions to that. My concern is that it will be fragile and break while I do some final shaping and clean up prior to making a mold. Another option is to just use clay and make a waste mold. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of using clay, making a mold of the outside surface of the ring, and then figure out how to do the inside. Hmm. Decisions, decisions.
Guess who bought some oatmeal last week. This guy!
Peel off the paper and mark it up to help shape the apoxie sculpt.
After I marked up the tube I thought, "Hmm, can I just resin the tube itself and be done with it?" So I put the main body on top of the tube and did some measurement. Not only can I not do that, but I need to make the tube thicker or the ring is going to be almost 1/4" inch or 6mm thick. Way too much. So I wrapped the cardboard in card stock and marked it again.
A side benefit is that it takes care of the relative canyon between layers of cardboard from when it was made.
So this week I'm going to use the apoxie sculpt to form the ring. I am trying to decide whether to do it in one piece or do the part of the ring that goes all the way around and then add the four extensions to that. My concern is that it will be fragile and break while I do some final shaping and clean up prior to making a mold. Another option is to just use clay and make a waste mold. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of using clay, making a mold of the outside surface of the ring, and then figure out how to do the inside. Hmm. Decisions, decisions.
FateLazarus
New Member
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
I am very glad to see that this project is still coming along. Great work so far! You can definitely mark me down as "very interested" in one.
I am very glad to see that this project is still coming along. Great work so far! You can definitely mark me down as "very interested" in one.
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
I want the ring to be approximately 1/8" or 3mm thick. After doing some math and measurements I decided the card stock was all wrong. I wanted to use parchment paper, but the tape would not stick to the silicone coating. So I used a page out of an ad I got in my mailbox and marked it up. And then did it again because I wanted to reverse so that it would work better with the spiral cardboard overlap. I do not show it on this picture but I also added a thin strip from a "For Sale" sign to help align the gauge I am using to get the height and thickness correct. Also, no picture of the gauge I made.
The mold will only be for half the ring. The way I have it laid out is that the section with the hashes will be the rubber. The inside is where I will be sculpting the actual master (don't worry, this isn't the ring to rule them all) and the outside will be for the mother mold.
Last night while "Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen" massaged my brain I started roughly laying out the Klean Klay I am sculpting the master with. I usually use it when making multi-part molds like the nose cone earlier. Tonight while watching last weeks episode of "Go On" (I love that show) and then switching over to Netflix for "Amok Time" I worked on getting the first section to the correct thickness.
After I finish the thickness I'll work on getting the height and width and then add vents and a pour spout. Hopefully by this weekend I can make the mold.
I want the ring to be approximately 1/8" or 3mm thick. After doing some math and measurements I decided the card stock was all wrong. I wanted to use parchment paper, but the tape would not stick to the silicone coating. So I used a page out of an ad I got in my mailbox and marked it up. And then did it again because I wanted to reverse so that it would work better with the spiral cardboard overlap. I do not show it on this picture but I also added a thin strip from a "For Sale" sign to help align the gauge I am using to get the height and thickness correct. Also, no picture of the gauge I made.
The mold will only be for half the ring. The way I have it laid out is that the section with the hashes will be the rubber. The inside is where I will be sculpting the actual master (don't worry, this isn't the ring to rule them all) and the outside will be for the mother mold.
Last night while "Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen" massaged my brain I started roughly laying out the Klean Klay I am sculpting the master with. I usually use it when making multi-part molds like the nose cone earlier. Tonight while watching last weeks episode of "Go On" (I love that show) and then switching over to Netflix for "Amok Time" I worked on getting the first section to the correct thickness.
After I finish the thickness I'll work on getting the height and width and then add vents and a pour spout. Hopefully by this weekend I can make the mold.
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
So I got the clay work mostly done except for some cleaning up of the edges. And it just seems way too thick in cross section.
So tomorrow I am going to make a new thickness gauge and attack it again. Right now it is about 1/8" thick. As I was writing this I looked at a popsicle stick on my desk (I love WholeFruit bars) and thought, "that looks like the right thickness". I measured it and it is a hair over 1/16". So I'm going to make that the new thickness. The total outer diameter will be off a little, but I think it will be OK. I'm protecting the tube in case I decide later I need to remake it. I really want to get this done by mid to late Saturday morning so I can get it the outer half of the mold done before I go to my brother's for bad movie night and get my TOS Klingon Battle Cruiser kit birthday present. :cheers Then I can mold the inner half Sunday afternoon and try a first casting Monday after work.
So I got the clay work mostly done except for some cleaning up of the edges. And it just seems way too thick in cross section.
So tomorrow I am going to make a new thickness gauge and attack it again. Right now it is about 1/8" thick. As I was writing this I looked at a popsicle stick on my desk (I love WholeFruit bars) and thought, "that looks like the right thickness". I measured it and it is a hair over 1/16". So I'm going to make that the new thickness. The total outer diameter will be off a little, but I think it will be OK. I'm protecting the tube in case I decide later I need to remake it. I really want to get this done by mid to late Saturday morning so I can get it the outer half of the mold done before I go to my brother's for bad movie night and get my TOS Klingon Battle Cruiser kit birthday present. :cheers Then I can mold the inner half Sunday afternoon and try a first casting Monday after work.
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
No pictures to post since they look pretty much like the previous post, but I thinned down the clay and I am pretty happy with it. I used two strips of .030 styrene stacked on each side of the clay along with a strip of that For Sale sign for a thickness of just over .060 inches and then used a thin ruler to scrap the clay down. Tomorrow I'll look at maybe smoothing it with some alcohol, put some fake rivets on, add vents and a pour funnel, and start making the mold.
No pictures to post since they look pretty much like the previous post, but I thinned down the clay and I am pretty happy with it. I used two strips of .030 styrene stacked on each side of the clay along with a strip of that For Sale sign for a thickness of just over .060 inches and then used a thin ruler to scrap the clay down. Tomorrow I'll look at maybe smoothing it with some alcohol, put some fake rivets on, add vents and a pour funnel, and start making the mold.
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
Ok, I've been busy this weekend. Sorry in advance for the long post, you get three days worth at once.
Friday night I got home and added some fake rivets, vents and a pour spout to the clay. The plan is to pour resin into the spout you can see on the very left of the picture and have it flow around and fill the rivets and then up and out the vents.
Next step was to apply the rubber. I had one problem here. One of the fake rivets had floated off of the clay. I almost cried. But I was able to re-position it and pressed it down pretty good. I really should have cleaned off the area and done it right, but I figured that at worst I would have to clean up the edges of the rubber a little.
That took until late Friday night.
Saturday I got up, trimmed the rubber and cut some big V's to use as keys. I put some aluminum foil on the cardboard around the rubber and the V's so the plasti-paste would not bond to the cardboard. I really want to save this tube in case something goes horribly wrong. I put some Vaseline on the alumimum just to be sure the shell would not stick to the aluminum. Then I mixed up about twice as much plasti-paste as I needed and slathered it on for the mold shell.
I slept in late and this stuff always seems to take longer than I plan. After lunch I peeled the entire thing off of the tube. The paper came with it which I actually appreciated since it would make it easier to remove the paper without damaging the clay. I expected to have to clean up the clay on the backside and wanted to keep that work to a minimum.
So I removed the paper and was shocked to find the clay was in excellent shape.
At this point there was nothing left to do but get out some Vaseline and get busy. I covered the the silicone and edges of the plasti-paste so no unwanted bonding would go on and spent the next few hours applying the rubber for the inner half of the mold. The cure time meant that it would not be ready until late that night so I was done for the day.
This morning I got up and basically did a repeat of Saturday: trim rubber, more vaseline on the cured plasti-paste, and put plasti-paste on the new rubber. I left the top and sides mostly free of the plasti-paste.
I got vaseline on the outside so I decided to wait until after lunch to mess with this. I cracked it apart, cleaned out the clay, and cleaned up some of the excess rubber and shell. That rivet from earlier was under a very thin layer of silicone so I was able to clean that up just by pushing it through. Unfortunately, I also noticed that there was a small scratch in the mold from when I had been moving it around. Noticeable, but not horrible. Buyers note: you may or may not want to apply a little putty there.
I then cleaned it to get some of the Vaseline off the inside of the mold and the outside of the shell. Nothing left to do but try it out. This is where I ran into problems. I first used some SmoothOn 65D which is designed for rotocasting. I barely got any of it into the mold before it stopped flowing into it. No picture of that. I'm also a little worried that the resin is going bad. What did go in stayed soft and pliable. Which is great because I have most of a gallon of the stuff. I knew I should have been casting the occasional body and nose code for the last half year. :facepalm
So then I tired some SmoothCast 300 of even more questionable vintage to see if that did any better. It did, but not by much. I even tried pouring some in the vents but no joy.
Here you can see the divot I made while fixing the wayward rivet.
So it looks like I need to use a syringe to pump the resin into the mold before it goes off. The ironic thing is that five to ten years ago I probably could have gotten a box of them for free. My parents worked at Sherwood Medical, the manufacturer of Monoject needles and syringes. Oh well. So now I have to track some down hopefully without going through Amazon.
Ok, I've been busy this weekend. Sorry in advance for the long post, you get three days worth at once.
Friday night I got home and added some fake rivets, vents and a pour spout to the clay. The plan is to pour resin into the spout you can see on the very left of the picture and have it flow around and fill the rivets and then up and out the vents.
Next step was to apply the rubber. I had one problem here. One of the fake rivets had floated off of the clay. I almost cried. But I was able to re-position it and pressed it down pretty good. I really should have cleaned off the area and done it right, but I figured that at worst I would have to clean up the edges of the rubber a little.
That took until late Friday night.
Saturday I got up, trimmed the rubber and cut some big V's to use as keys. I put some aluminum foil on the cardboard around the rubber and the V's so the plasti-paste would not bond to the cardboard. I really want to save this tube in case something goes horribly wrong. I put some Vaseline on the alumimum just to be sure the shell would not stick to the aluminum. Then I mixed up about twice as much plasti-paste as I needed and slathered it on for the mold shell.
I slept in late and this stuff always seems to take longer than I plan. After lunch I peeled the entire thing off of the tube. The paper came with it which I actually appreciated since it would make it easier to remove the paper without damaging the clay. I expected to have to clean up the clay on the backside and wanted to keep that work to a minimum.
So I removed the paper and was shocked to find the clay was in excellent shape.
At this point there was nothing left to do but get out some Vaseline and get busy. I covered the the silicone and edges of the plasti-paste so no unwanted bonding would go on and spent the next few hours applying the rubber for the inner half of the mold. The cure time meant that it would not be ready until late that night so I was done for the day.
This morning I got up and basically did a repeat of Saturday: trim rubber, more vaseline on the cured plasti-paste, and put plasti-paste on the new rubber. I left the top and sides mostly free of the plasti-paste.
I got vaseline on the outside so I decided to wait until after lunch to mess with this. I cracked it apart, cleaned out the clay, and cleaned up some of the excess rubber and shell. That rivet from earlier was under a very thin layer of silicone so I was able to clean that up just by pushing it through. Unfortunately, I also noticed that there was a small scratch in the mold from when I had been moving it around. Noticeable, but not horrible. Buyers note: you may or may not want to apply a little putty there.
I then cleaned it to get some of the Vaseline off the inside of the mold and the outside of the shell. Nothing left to do but try it out. This is where I ran into problems. I first used some SmoothOn 65D which is designed for rotocasting. I barely got any of it into the mold before it stopped flowing into it. No picture of that. I'm also a little worried that the resin is going bad. What did go in stayed soft and pliable. Which is great because I have most of a gallon of the stuff. I knew I should have been casting the occasional body and nose code for the last half year. :facepalm
So then I tired some SmoothCast 300 of even more questionable vintage to see if that did any better. It did, but not by much. I even tried pouring some in the vents but no joy.
Here you can see the divot I made while fixing the wayward rivet.
So it looks like I need to use a syringe to pump the resin into the mold before it goes off. The ironic thing is that five to ten years ago I probably could have gotten a box of them for free. My parents worked at Sherwood Medical, the manufacturer of Monoject needles and syringes. Oh well. So now I have to track some down hopefully without going through Amazon.
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
I was trying to think of options today for what to do about syringes. I have a Hobby Town nearby, but according to the corporate website they do not carry them at the store. I confirmed this on the way home from work. So I was going to get chicken wings for lunch when it hit me: Marinade injector kit! So I picked one up from the grocery store. I was looking at it back at work and the needle is huge and the holes on it are on the side. More importantly, I looked at the ingredients for the marinade. What the heck is "natural butter flavor"? Anyway, I did not think the needle would work, but I had a plan to use a coffee stirrer instead. I got home, mixed some resin, and ran into a problem. I couldn't get the syringe back on the coffee stirrer. So I just stuck the end of the syringe into one of the vent holes.
I had a bit of a blowout.
Hmm, I need to do something about that. But it worked!
My phone refused to focus. I am really concerned that I took my time and made sure I had equal parts A and B and the plastic still came out pliable. I'm going to do some Googling and see if there is something I can do about that. I really do not want to have to buy another gallon of this stuff.
Edit: After some thought I think the plastic might actually be ok. What I need to do is cast something hollow and decide how strong it is. Then if that seem to be rigid enough cut it in half and see if it is still rigid. My supply might be good, just not right for the part I'm casing.
I was trying to think of options today for what to do about syringes. I have a Hobby Town nearby, but according to the corporate website they do not carry them at the store. I confirmed this on the way home from work. So I was going to get chicken wings for lunch when it hit me: Marinade injector kit! So I picked one up from the grocery store. I was looking at it back at work and the needle is huge and the holes on it are on the side. More importantly, I looked at the ingredients for the marinade. What the heck is "natural butter flavor"? Anyway, I did not think the needle would work, but I had a plan to use a coffee stirrer instead. I got home, mixed some resin, and ran into a problem. I couldn't get the syringe back on the coffee stirrer. So I just stuck the end of the syringe into one of the vent holes.
I had a bit of a blowout.
Hmm, I need to do something about that. But it worked!
My phone refused to focus. I am really concerned that I took my time and made sure I had equal parts A and B and the plastic still came out pliable. I'm going to do some Googling and see if there is something I can do about that. I really do not want to have to buy another gallon of this stuff.
Edit: After some thought I think the plastic might actually be ok. What I need to do is cast something hollow and decide how strong it is. Then if that seem to be rigid enough cut it in half and see if it is still rigid. My supply might be good, just not right for the part I'm casing.
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Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
Thanks. I'm going to keep posting whenever progress is made, whether people comment or not. Speaking of which...
This morning I made a quick cast of the nose cone to test out the resin. Aside from the flat side on the bottom being too thin, it came out good. So the resin is definitely still good. I think the difference is that the nose cone is a compound curve making it self supporting and hence rigid. If it was just the ring I might let it slide, but there are going to be some thin fins between the main body and the ring and I do not want to worry about them flexing and looking like they got too close to a fire. Sometime this week I need to go to the local Smooth-On vendor and get something with less flex. I am going to ask their advice, but right now it is between SmoothCast 385 and Task 2 or 3. The main differences are the 385 is thick when mixed and I do not think it will flow well in the narrow mold and the Task 3 has a pot life of 20 minutes which is probably way too long. So I expect I will be getting Task 2 with a seven minute pot life. That should be long enough to flow through the mold. Worse case scenario is that I have to use the syringe again. Assuming I can get the cured stuff out of it.
One of the guys at work that I have been sharing this with asked if I had tried the cast ring on the tube I used as a form. So I gave it a whirl to see what it looked like along with the second cast that did not fully flow through the mold.
When I made the master I started doubting my measurements so I made the thin part about a 1/4" extra long. Which it looks like I did not need to do. But, better safe than sorry.
Next I need to figure out how to get the outline of the actual body so I can cut the fins where they will attach to it and then make a mold. After that the only big thing left to do will be to design the warning decal and get those made since I have an old B&W laser printer and can't do it myself.
Thanks. I'm going to keep posting whenever progress is made, whether people comment or not. Speaking of which...
This morning I made a quick cast of the nose cone to test out the resin. Aside from the flat side on the bottom being too thin, it came out good. So the resin is definitely still good. I think the difference is that the nose cone is a compound curve making it self supporting and hence rigid. If it was just the ring I might let it slide, but there are going to be some thin fins between the main body and the ring and I do not want to worry about them flexing and looking like they got too close to a fire. Sometime this week I need to go to the local Smooth-On vendor and get something with less flex. I am going to ask their advice, but right now it is between SmoothCast 385 and Task 2 or 3. The main differences are the 385 is thick when mixed and I do not think it will flow well in the narrow mold and the Task 3 has a pot life of 20 minutes which is probably way too long. So I expect I will be getting Task 2 with a seven minute pot life. That should be long enough to flow through the mold. Worse case scenario is that I have to use the syringe again. Assuming I can get the cured stuff out of it.
One of the guys at work that I have been sharing this with asked if I had tried the cast ring on the tube I used as a form. So I gave it a whirl to see what it looked like along with the second cast that did not fully flow through the mold.
When I made the master I started doubting my measurements so I made the thin part about a 1/4" extra long. Which it looks like I did not need to do. But, better safe than sorry.
Next I need to figure out how to get the outline of the actual body so I can cut the fins where they will attach to it and then make a mold. After that the only big thing left to do will be to design the warning decal and get those made since I have an old B&W laser printer and can't do it myself.
metal wood
Well-Known Member
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
wow, fantastic, just got to take the whole journey you have posted on here. very cool work and idea. that and i love the corgi! looking forward to more.
wow, fantastic, just got to take the whole journey you have posted on here. very cool work and idea. that and i love the corgi! looking forward to more.
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
Quick update before the server goes down (hi Art!)
So I got some Task 2 which is supposed to be a lot harder. Uh, it sure doesn't seem that way. When I took it out of the mold after an hour it was as soft as warm taffy. A few hours later and it was more rigid and over night it got more rigid. The little extensions are rigid but the thin connector between them is only a little more rigid than what I cast the other day. So I think a few things are going on here:
1. I went nuts shaking and stirring part A and B. It is possible there was a lot of air in one or the other so I might not have mixed it at the correct ratio. I'm going to try by weight next time.
2. I took it out of the mold way too soon. Next time I'm going to leave it in the mold for at least 12 hours.
3. The top third of the ring has a very small cross section. Because of that I do not think it will get much more rigid. But maybe #1 and #2 will change that.
Another problem I have is that even with a longer pot life it just will not flow completely through the mold without some assistance. The syringe I used the other day is polypropylene so the resin did not stick, but there is a lip just on the inside of the large opening where the plunger goes. I cannot get the plug of resin that was left in the syringe past it. If I had a second syringe I could fill it with water, use a little bit of tubing to connect them, and then connect them like a clutch pedal and clutch. So I need to get some more syringes. Looks like I am only going to be able to work on the actual fins in the meantime.
Quick update before the server goes down (hi Art!)
So I got some Task 2 which is supposed to be a lot harder. Uh, it sure doesn't seem that way. When I took it out of the mold after an hour it was as soft as warm taffy. A few hours later and it was more rigid and over night it got more rigid. The little extensions are rigid but the thin connector between them is only a little more rigid than what I cast the other day. So I think a few things are going on here:
1. I went nuts shaking and stirring part A and B. It is possible there was a lot of air in one or the other so I might not have mixed it at the correct ratio. I'm going to try by weight next time.
2. I took it out of the mold way too soon. Next time I'm going to leave it in the mold for at least 12 hours.
3. The top third of the ring has a very small cross section. Because of that I do not think it will get much more rigid. But maybe #1 and #2 will change that.
Another problem I have is that even with a longer pot life it just will not flow completely through the mold without some assistance. The syringe I used the other day is polypropylene so the resin did not stick, but there is a lip just on the inside of the large opening where the plunger goes. I cannot get the plug of resin that was left in the syringe past it. If I had a second syringe I could fill it with water, use a little bit of tubing to connect them, and then connect them like a clutch pedal and clutch. So I need to get some more syringes. Looks like I am only going to be able to work on the actual fins in the meantime.
Mike J.
Master Member
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
And if you're really worried about flexibility, you may be able to pick up some heavy duty two-part epoxy at the hardware store. I'm thinking of the marine-grade stuff. Usually the packaging will tell you if it's gonna shrink, and what the cure time is.
-MJ
And if you're really worried about flexibility, you may be able to pick up some heavy duty two-part epoxy at the hardware store. I'm thinking of the marine-grade stuff. Usually the packaging will tell you if it's gonna shrink, and what the cure time is.
-MJ
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
Talking with someone at work made me think the warning will be painted on and just the actual text needs to be a water slide decal. I can do black text decals on my laser printer.
As for the flexibility, I am mostly concerned with the fins that connect the ring to the body. those will have a larger cross section so I think (hope) they will be ok.
Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
Talking with someone at work made me think the warning will be painted on and just the actual text needs to be a water slide decal. I can do black text decals on my laser printer.
As for the flexibility, I am mostly concerned with the fins that connect the ring to the body. those will have a larger cross section so I think (hope) they will be ok.
Sent from my Etch-A-Sketch
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Scouser1892
New Member
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
that's really impressive, keep up the good work.
that's really impressive, keep up the good work.
Re: Fallout 3: Mini-Nuke WIP
Last night I spend some time making the artwork for the warning decal.
I'm not 100% on the font, FranKlein, but I think it is fairly close except for the "Warning" text.
This morning I glued the two bad casts of the ring together to see how it looks. I am very happy. I also took a quick stab at sanding down the huge seam on the main body. It was easy to do, but I used long strokes and it sanded down some of the lip on the screw holes. Also, no pictures. I'll post some of them tomorrow. Right now they both have primer on them. I ordered some syringes this week and they should be in on Monday. Hopefully, they do not have the little lip on the inside so I can get cured resin out of them easily. I also ordered some clear decal paper and clear coat for them and that should be in sometime in the middle of the week.
At this point the only main thing left to do is make the fins and use one of them to make a mold. I plan on making the fins tomorrow but I also planned on doing that today. Instead I'm going to run around in Defiance and try to find some ark falls.
Last night I spend some time making the artwork for the warning decal.
I'm not 100% on the font, FranKlein, but I think it is fairly close except for the "Warning" text.
This morning I glued the two bad casts of the ring together to see how it looks. I am very happy. I also took a quick stab at sanding down the huge seam on the main body. It was easy to do, but I used long strokes and it sanded down some of the lip on the screw holes. Also, no pictures. I'll post some of them tomorrow. Right now they both have primer on them. I ordered some syringes this week and they should be in on Monday. Hopefully, they do not have the little lip on the inside so I can get cured resin out of them easily. I also ordered some clear decal paper and clear coat for them and that should be in sometime in the middle of the week.
At this point the only main thing left to do is make the fins and use one of them to make a mold. I plan on making the fins tomorrow but I also planned on doing that today. Instead I'm going to run around in Defiance and try to find some ark falls.
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