Fallout 3 Laser Rifle

That is awesome and the build shots are great, I assume the Red Stripe is a necessary part of the build.
 
I love these guys who go....yeah...had no tiime...wasnt really in the mood...could have done better...then knock it out the park with wonderful builds like this....KUDOS!!!!
 
You did an incredible job on this! Love the weathering!! Nice and gritty just like it should be! :thumbsup
 
Stunning, can't wait to see it finished! Now if only Bethesda would comission you to make a master and then sell a run of replicas. One can only dream.
 
kgaijin said:
Stunning, can't wait to see it finished! Now if only Bethesda would comission you to make a master and then sell a run of replicas. One can only dream.
Click to expand...

Oh man, I can't even imagine molding this thing... I've had a LOT of requests from people to make multiples, but I don't think this one will go under the rubber. At this point, I just want it out the door!

One of the coolest changes (in my opinion) from the V1 rifle is the addition of LEDs in the "barrel". I spent a long time last night trying to hide the battery pack inside the gun but make it easy to change the cells. Pretty happy with the solution, but I'll have more about that later. LEDs make everything cooler.

4242819195_f01948fe52_b.jpg
 
A few quick questions..

Are you using a router for the tapered inside edge of the circles on the stock?

Also, I'm curious to know what method your using to shaped the styrene and adhere it to the MDF?

Thanks!
 
tubachris85x said:
A few quick questions..

Are you using a router for the tapered inside edge of the circles on the stock?

Also, I'm curious to know what method your using to shaped the styrene and adhere it to the MDF?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes, a table router was used to shape the cutouts in the stock. The inside circle was trimmed flat on the table freehand using a straight bit, then the edge bevel was added using a 45º bit with a bearing cap to follow the line of the circle.

4204954987_c47e07fbf2_b.jpg


Styrene is hand-shaped using various rounded dowels as forms. The sintra is shaped on a table router. As for gluing it to the MDF, I lay down a coat of superglue on the MDF which soaks in and seals the wood, then I put another dab of glue on this and place the styrene on top. Rock-solid.
 
I make MDF guns myself, so I know just how good these are ... excelent craftmanship and execution. Im speachless......:eek
 
Volpin said:
Yes, a table router was used to shape the cutouts in the stock. The inside circle was trimmed flat on the table freehand using a straight bit, then the edge bevel was added using a 45º bit with a bearing cap to follow the line of the circle.

4204954987_c47e07fbf2_b.jpg


Styrene is hand-shaped using various rounded dowels as forms. The sintra is shaped on a table router. As for gluing it to the MDF, I lay down a coat of superglue on the MDF which soaks in and seals the wood, then I put another dab of glue on this and place the styrene on top. Rock-solid.
Click to expand...



Thanks! Yea, a table router is something I really want in the future :lol
 
You freehanded those cutouts? You must have played Operation a lot as a kid. That is impressive. I would have had to holesaw them.(That first one looked great, I would not have pointed it any one :) )
 
I forgot to ask. Did you do your layout directly on the MDF or do you use a CAD program and transfer it? It looks penciled on but I couldn't see any compass points in the wood.
 
fuelish said:
I forgot to ask. Did you do your layout directly on the MDF or do you use a CAD program and transfer it? It looks penciled on but I couldn't see any compass points in the wood.
Click to expand...

That was actually a sort of happy accident I stumbled upon. I printed the blueprints on vellum instead of the cheap paper i use in my plotter. I figured out that if I brushed the printed side with lacquer thinner then rubbed the wetted part against the wood, the print would transfer off the vellum and onto the MDF. Made cutting things out and drafting much easier.

4204955077_2d79f7117b_b.jpg


Also, yes - they were freehanded. I don't own any holesaws that large, and didn't want to buy a set just for a couple of uses. I started out with something that looked a little scarier, like this:

3821597097_b2dc7daf07_b.jpg


Here's a shot of the battery compartment, finished just a little while ago. The black part with the knob is the lid to an in-line AA cell holder. I built up a beveled top piece to match the part of the rear that I cut out and hopefully hide the seam a little bit - i think once everything is the same color it should blend together nicely.

To change the batteries, just twist the knob and remove the plate. Works great!

4350570020_d8e9cb4bb3_b.jpg


4350570106_68050323cc_b.jpg
 
Good trick with the battery holder.
The second photo looks more like what I would have done.
I like the way your vellum transfer works. Much better than doing all the layout on the work piece.
 
Great work! I really love this laser rifle!

I noticed one thing though I'd suggest to change - dont' laugh - its the screw heads! The flat head screw heads make the parts appear like plastic or wood (which they actually are made of). However, if you are going for a metal appearance I'd use socket head cap screws or (to keep with the 50s style) slotted fillister head screws in counterbored holes.

Here's a picture of the style I'm suggesting:
tikkafront.jpg



You mentioned somewere there are some detailed blueprints for the laser rifle on the web. Do you have a link to those?

Cheers,
Stefan
 
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