F Toys AT-AT Hoth Diorama

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pwlmusic

New Member
Hey guys,

My first post and first thread on the boards here. I've been lurking for the last couple of months reading up on the Anigrand Star Destroyer builds before I tackle it myself.

Many thanks to DTSSYST for the help and advice so far!

Before I began that, I wanted to 'go easy' on a little prebuilt kits before all that drilling for the fibre optics etc.

I decided on a 'Fallen AT-AT' Hoth scene. I know it's been done before and probably even done to death, but I couldn't resist such an iconic scene! :)

I started out and ordered 2 AT-ATs from ebay as well as a snow speeder kit (which comes in a pair of those little guys). Couldn't resist checking out the ATATs and ripped the boxes open while driving to work! Those little guys are actually quite nicely done! After getting back from work, I did a side by side comparison with images from 'sculpting a galaxy' and noticed that other than the pistons on the legs and a few other minor details, it is pretty spot on from the studio version. Here's where you pros come in. Did I miss anything there? Perhaps in terms of proportion, I might have overlooked something that might need correcting. Anyone with any F Toys ATAT experience?

Anyways, I started out by replicating some of the 'minor details', namely drilling in the various holes that appeared in the pictures. I used either a 0.5mm or 0.6mm bit, depending on how 'large' the holes appeared in the photos.





Much better I think, especially after repainting and weathering the entire thing.

Next, I noticed that the F Toys flaps on the feet were molded together, instead of flappy panels like the real thing. I scribed lines around the flaps to make them look a little disjointed and flappier.



Lastly for the night, I added the pistons to one of the legs. Turned out to be much more tedious than I envisioned and took longer than I expected. I used a half - cylindrical 2mm wide bit of Evergreen to make the 'foot' portion of the piston, a 1mm cylindrical strip, drilled a 0.6mm hole through it, and then plugged it with a 0.5mm strip that was glued to the 'heel'. I couldn't think of any other way I could do it with the stuff I had at hand and had to make do. ATAT pros, any ideas?

That's about all I did for tonight. I plan to finish up the rest of the legs, attach the cheek guns and then prime the entire sucker to get ready for repainting.

Thanks for reading guys, and go easy on me! I might have broken a few 'unwritten rules' about the AT AT without knowing it. Any tips or suggestions would be great! :D
 

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Sym-Cha

Master Member
Hello there,

I have 2 F-toys AT-AT too so I'll be following your progress closely. The feet are hollow so I started to look for parts to add and came across this :

AT_AT_foot_all_parts by Kitty on Shapeways

They look rather nice however compared with what I paid for those 2 AT-AT's the price is just a little steep for 8 white feet for now, alas. Perhaps one day :confused

-Chaim
 

pwlmusic

New Member
Hello there,

I have 2 F-toys AT-AT too so I'll be following your progress closely. The feet are hollow so I started to look for parts to add and came across this :

AT_AT_foot_all_parts by Kitty on Shapeways

They look rather nice however compared with what I paid for those 2 AT-AT's the price is just a little steep for 8 white feet for now, alas. Perhaps one day :confused

-Chaim

Ah.... there you go. I was looking around for that and couldn't find it. thanks for the link!

Well, actually what you can do, is to actually plan out the diorama and just get the shape way bits to insert into the legs you want 'in motion / lifted' for your ATATs.

Since I was planning a fallen ATAT, I think I might actually get maybe 2 -4 of these things to insert into the exposed feet.

Speaking of that, I need suggestions on how to work on the neck portion. As some of you might know, the articulation allows for only a very slight left and right motion, NOT up / down. The fallen ATAT has its neck tilted up. So suppose I even cut off the existing neck, I'm still going to have a problem to get it at that 'tilted' angle, cause of the solid piece of plastic neck in the way.

Here's what I mean.

 

christrom

Well-Known Member
I've done a test piece with some F-toys AT-ATs on here

http://www.therpf.com/f11/ertl-diorama-wip-138260/

I'd say that the only thing that bugs me with them is that their heads are slightly too narrow, but they look really good. I've got about 4 of them and took the head off one and split it down the middle to widen it. The other thing is sorting out the legs which bent backwards... easy to do, just sand the knee connections until they are smooth and you can reposition the lags.

Looking forward to seeing your progress :)
 

pwlmusic

New Member
I've done a test piece with some F-toys AT-ATs on here

http://www.therpf.com/f11/ertl-diorama-wip-138260/

I'd say that the only thing that bugs me with them is that their heads are slightly too narrow, but they look really good. I've got about 4 of them and took the head off one and split it down the middle to widen it. The other thing is sorting out the legs which bent backwards... easy to do, just sand the knee connections until they are smooth and you can reposition the lags.

Looking forward to seeing your progress :)
Yeah the 'fixed' positions of the legs really bugged me. Trying to pose the AT AT mid - walk makes it look really strange cause the legs are bent at the exact same angles.

I actually did the leg mod you mentioned last night before seeing this post. Thing is, instead of sanding the male connectors, I widened the female connectors with a dremel, and after test fitting I realized that the 'mod' can be seen from the other side! D'oh! Out came the putty and I'm trying to fill the unsightly hole. Shoulda just sanded the hex instead of widening.

Now. That. Was. Dumb.
 

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dtssyst

Well-Known Member
Your progress looks great on the at-at.

Any time you have a question on the star destroyer, just ask.
 

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