ESB Bladed Stunt Graflex Lightsaber

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by thd9791, Dec 27, 2018.

  1. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hi y'all

    here's another project that's been in my mind and I finally have started to gather parts and brainstorm. I could use ALL the help I can get, and am really open to correction, critique and better ideas.

    I did it once with a Canon flash, JB Welded Tractor bushing and some PVC pipe. Worked okay.

    I then did it with a ROTJ Lightsaber blank made by Noah M (I forget his user name) and a blade/socket made by Halliwax as a favor. Worked pretty well, at least for photographs and light twirling.

    I also accidentally figured out how a core was installed into the Vader ROTJ Magic of Myth Lightsaber. I'd like to bring those two projects together.

    here are my past projects and plans for an Empire Strikes Back bladed stunt. I have no idea what to use for a blade either, so yea, I'm grumpy about that too.

    Would this work?
    ROTJTom.jpg ROTJTomoff.jpg duelingtom.jpg Vader1st.jpg VaderROTJTom.jpg Yumasocket.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Dec 27, 2018
  2. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dang I posted the plans sideways, hold on. fullsizeoutput_12fd.jpeg
     
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  3. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom I have total faith you will destroy this project. And by “destroy” I mean “make totally awesome”.
     
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  4. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Excellent Tom!! Love the sketch’s! I can totally see this work!!!
     
  5. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I’m setting up a few pieces of this ahead of time, but this was a fluke today. Halliwax inspired me to go buy a golf club myself. Went through three stacks of them at a local thrift store and there were very few that had smooth shafts and were thick. I found a decent one (they’re all 99¢) and took it home.

    I originally measured the clearance in the bulb retaining ring to be 19 mm. After a decent amount of eyeballing and comparing angles I guessed the ESB fencing blades to be around 16-18 mm wide.

    This golf club is barely over 16 mm at its thickest point, and made of carbon fiber. I thought it was thicker, but the rubber handle was incredibly heavy duty. So the 16 mm before the handle stayed at 16 beneath it as well.
    62F870D7-FB41-47A1-8D06-DF9F63A3897A.jpeg F7D535E7-0F6A-44CD-90D5-F113CC4ACFF2.jpeg DE6FFD62-8362-48DD-884B-8E41E299E404.jpeg

    I also was not a fan of how quickly it tapered, however it looked a bit different after cutting it down. Through Seth’s guide it looked like the blades were 3 and 1/3 or 1/2 Graflex flashes long., plus the height of the socket area. I casually measured that with something...
    C7984EB2-C58E-4679-B35C-E5EF3DAB7EAF.jpeg 122261BD-E7E1-49CA-9766-57007F475EBF.jpeg 05D94845-AD55-4B1B-BFB6-3BE32B5446EA.jpeg

    It seems 1-3 mm too skinny, but that’s pretty small. Here in green is my guestimate and in red is the golf shaft.
    1F235DC2-F86E-4F1F-9A63-53945D71055F.jpeg

    27C42CE7-748F-4E07-B2D1-4F2A9D938138.jpeg 121B282A-9576-40BD-BDA1-AAE069E811B0.jpeg
    It will fit a 3/8 16 threaded rod with some bushing or filler

    and that can be threaded down the socket into a core like a tang.
    121B282A-9576-40BD-BDA1-AAE069E811B0.jpeg

    I’m also amazed at how light this is. Makes me skeptical, but it’s a good option to explore. I can’t say anything about evidence of the OT though. Feels like with the core this will be incredibly bottom heavy.

    It does look and feel pretty cool though :)
     

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  6. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here is me boiling the handle trying to get it off. I ended up slicing it with a saw on a multi tool like an autopsy and peeling it off. I only used a little hacksaw to get the business end off. Carbon fiber cannot be bent so I had to completely saw through.
     

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  7. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom wicked!! I had to do the same thing, I had to use a razor blade and cut the handle off

    You grabbed your clubs for a buck as well?! Crazy!

    I know we can’t prove the clubs were used, but for what we need them for I think they are a cheap and easy solution!

    Can’t wait to see where this goes!!
     
  8. russellsch

    russellsch Sr Member

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    The Thrift Store is a great place to get clubs. They're like $1. I've gone through a few of them over the years. It's a fun way to clear small rocks from the property (or least from the area where I'm at). I also whack bamboo shoots in the spring with them :lol:. I'll go the local driving range as well, once in a while.
    I never would've thought of using them as a lightsaber blade though. Brilliant!
     
  9. jts1031

    jts1031 Well-Known Member

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    The golf shafts are graphite and by the time you get them in a club, they've been trimmed down. The sizes tend to be pretty standard with the butt having a diameter of .600" and a length of 47", then it's cut to length, with the butt being trimmed. There are also three kinds of tips, one being tapered to .335", iron shafts at .355", and then a parallel tip at .370". The cheapest graphite shaft will be around $12. You'll also find different weights on shafts, measured in grams.
     
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  10. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    interesting! do you know why some of the metal ones look stepped and are much skinnier? It seemed at the thrift store there were metal stepped ones and then the smooth ones, probably graphite. I think were looking for rods around .7" or a bit less at the butt *facepalm
     
  11. jts1031

    jts1031 Well-Known Member

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    The traditional style has been to have steps in steel shafts, which was first seen in the 1920s. It allows more control over the flexibility and kickpoint of the shaft doing it this way. That being said, there is a Project X Rifle shaft that has no steps and tapers straight, as well as KBS C-Taper shafts that are similar. In the 1970s, graphite was almost phased out because it wasn't very durable and there were limits to how well they could get it to perform. Once they started to add other materials to improve stability and durability in the 80s they really caught on.

    Those of you wanting to remove grips, the easiest is to cut them off. And then the easiest way to get any grip tape off the shaft is to heat it with a propane torch for a bit. It'll remove easily at that point.
     
  12. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sounds like you are a golfer? You sure do know a lot about clubs. What is your personal belief on wha though see in these photos and your club experience?
     
  13. jts1031

    jts1031 Well-Known Member

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    I think they work fine for what you're using them for, but I'd certainly not want to use them for any type of dueling. They don't take well to strikes, and I've seen some of them snap just from the torque of a swing. They can splinter and cause injury that way. For that reason, I can't see them being used for filming. A dow rod would work so much better and be easier to source in my mind. But I know for Episode I they used aluminum painted rods wrapped in cellophane because the paint would chip and fly off during strikes, so I don't know to what lengths they'd go to just use what they had.
     
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  14. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks for the advice! Really appreciate it
     
  15. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That golf club just didn't seem right for a Graflex. I had to hold it in my hands, cut it and wield it to really start to learn the shape it should be.

    I learned about as much as I could from it, so I started playing around with it and sure enough.... it fit into a Kobold socket. Like the detachable internal socket you pop out of the top of a Kobold flash to make a droid caller.

    My socket was sitting inside a Leitz flash on a custom saber. Well, the socket isn't very deep, so I drilled into the kobold socket and bakelite of the flash to sink it in deeper. The only drill bits I had were a tad too small, so I stuck a threaded rod down there instead, and jammed the blade over it.

    The flash's bits weren't solid. the cylinder inside for the bulb/switches was hollow so I can to cut up some plastic bits as bushings and stick them in there too, so it's not perfectly straight ...but most of the parts are a tight fit. E6000 is holding this together, and will make this a good test or experiment off paper for my final graflex.

    By the way, I got my graflex today in a package of blem sabers and Roman's was slightly smaller than a couple of my real flashes. About 1/3 of a mm. That was enough to make a perfectly snug fit for my core.
     

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  16. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here are some shots of my test saber 20190111_154938.jpg 20190111_154918.jpg
     
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  17. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dang Tom!!! That looks awesome!!
     
  18. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Guys, Ski poles come in a few standard diameters. The largest one is exactly my guestimation of 18mm. Also, the shape matches much better: not tapering until at least 2/3 of the blade. Also, they come in aluminum, carbon fiber and fiberglass composite. Maybe, just maybe, they kept buying a * ton of any ski pole they could find. i've contacted a company about raw aluminum poles and 1-2 folks about used ones.
     
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  19. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I live for this...
     
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  20. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    In the meantime, this is where that golf club went. Used some Green tape left over from that Yuma Stunt I did (you can see it lighting up in the background behind a new Romans MPP and Graflex)

    This makes me more confident that we're on the right track. My oopsie was glueing the internal rod into the flash but not the blade, which vibrates. so it rattles every time its hit.

    fullsizeoutput_1388.jpeg fullsizeoutput_138a.jpeg fullsizeoutput_1387.jpeg
     
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  21. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That scotchlite looks awesome
     
  22. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks!

    Tonight I prepped the Graflex.

    Okay, now that I accidentally italicized that sentence let me show you. I completely disassembled Romans Graflex socket (thank god those bunny ears are threaded) and put it back together with only the main socket screws and the plates/nut for the front slotted screw. I left out the bulb socket main spring and pin, so there’s room to drill and tap for a threaded blade.
    8F25B641-3C23-4CF9-8CB8-5D8066FB40A0.jpeg
    The brass pins are long enough that they have to be put back in from the outside, after the socket is slid back into place.
    F34ABE26-5CAD-439A-B2E4-347645C91912.jpeg

    So now I realize that I can’t copy the Vader saber. Why? Both red buttons are in place on the ESB saber, and the famous empty socket on the Vader saber where you can see the insert... it would get in the way, in this configuration it never had a button there, maybe that’s why the tire valve is stuck in.

    So it’s time to slide my core into place and mark where the screws are going to go. I first placed the one we see on Dagobah peeking out under Marks fingers under the beer tab. Then, diagonally, the ones on each side.
    548F5E94-BE63-4FC3-826E-F862BB57C507.jpeg 594EAF45-3B14-408B-8A5E-3ECEE539597B.png 18E3A930-E1B6-4922-AB4A-02DC9D25C9C1.jpeg


    That bolt, if it is one in the second photo, is very high up. I decided to alter mine a bit based on all the photos there are.

    Also, I decided to hide number 4 under the clamp :)
    A78261AB-129A-450E-B346-BFDFAC1D5F76.jpeg 23A1B81C-61DB-420F-9B13-AF8775D65227.jpeg
     
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  23. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Freak’n perfect, thanks for posting this! Now I get your PM!!

    I was also going to say how did you located the screws. I knew of the 1 black and white pic on dagobah, but didn’t know of the rest!!

    Good freak’n eyes man!!
     
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  24. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom we haven’t talked about the blade

    What are you using for a blade? Because you are going to need 3/8-16 bolt to attach to the blade to screw into the hilt right?
     
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  25. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes - I'm trying to find a ski pole and when I do, I plan on doing a Vadermania and drilling and tapping an insert to plug the bottom?
     
  26. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yup! So the ski pole would have a 3/8-16 bolt/rod coming out the bottom. Which will slide into the graflex bulb release section, the screw into the aluminum round stock, great idea!!
     
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  27. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Even though Ski poles taper at the end - these replacement poles are not tapered.

    "

    Maša Leskošek <sales@tehnomat.si>
    Mon, Jan 14, 3:03 AM (1 day ago)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    to me, sales
    [​IMG]






    Dear Mr. Delmonte,

    thank you for your email.
    Unfortunately we don't offer tapered alu tubes.

    If you'd be interested in cylindricALU tubes (fi 14, 16 and 18 mm) the price is 13,50€/kg (without VAT).

    The weight of cylindrical ALU tubes is:
    - 14 mm x 0,8 mm - tube 3m long: 283g
    - 16 mm x 0,7 mm - tube 3m long: 289g
    - 18 mm x 0,7 mm - tube 3m long: 327g

    In case of any additional questions please feel free to contact us.

    Kind regards,
    Maša
    Maša Leskošek

    Tehnomat, Kranj, d.o.o.
    Jezerska cesta 55, SLO-4000 Kranj, Slovenia
    ---------------------------------------------------
    E-mail: sales@tehnomat.si
    Phone: +386 4 2351810
    Fax: +386 4 2351811
    ---------------------------------------------------
    http://www.tehnomat.si
    http://www.ski-poles-accessories.com
    On 12.01.2019 07:00, t.delmonte9@gmail.com wrote:
    Na strani www.ski-poles-accessories.com je bil ustvarjen kontakt.

    Ime in priimek: Tom Delmonte
    Podjetje:
    Naslov:
    Pošta: Buffalo, NY USA
    Telefon:
    E-pošta: t.delmonte9@gmail.com
    Komentar: Hi, I wanted to ask what the current prices are for 18mm Aluminum ski pole shafts? Pice for each, and if it changes for a bulk order? An image of a full tapered rod would be helpful too. Thank you! Tom Delmonte
     
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  28. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The search continues
     
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  29. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Oh, I haven't given up on ski poles. This means I get to cut up a used one :D
     

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