ESB Bladed Stunt Graflex Lightsaber "The Core!"
- Thread starter thd9791
- Start date
I bought a cue but the first piece is far too short. And if I join the two pieces together, the diameter is too big at the base if I measure 36" from the tip.
I'm sure there are countless variations though. Don't you just hate asking sellers all those questions about dimensions!?
I'm sure there are countless variations though. Don't you just hate asking sellers all those questions about dimensions!?
I can't get over how much of the reflective microspheres have come off. This doesn't happen with the fabric Scotchlite. Nothing comes off.
Had to order some from the USA.
Had to order some from the USA.
jorged123
Well-Known Member
I guess if the inner diameter of the tubing is small enough compared to the outer diameter, you could free hand lathe a slight taper to the tubing. It'd still be probably too expensive or time consuming and possibly wonky!
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Thanks halliwax for saying what I was afraid to. In my long wanderings & researches into other things I have learned (from books written by neurologists ) that the human memory very unreliable. (I can ref the book I'm thinking of you want I still have it somewhere). The fact that sq. & Tri blades have been mentioned by people who worked on the film & in the props dept. too, tells me they at least tried these out. We also need to remember that films are shot out of sequence so for instance the scene in OB1's hovel maybe have been done after the scene on the falcon. I still think the falcon scene is the only candidate for a square blade making it onto scene at least in the out take I mentioned (here? another thread?).
I'm also aware we (I) have hijacked this ESB thread somewhat (a lot). Sorry thd9791. May I suggest we keep non ESB stuff to 'The OT stunt lightsaber blades research thread' as a more suitable arena?
I'm also aware we (I) have hijacked this ESB thread somewhat (a lot). Sorry thd9791. May I suggest we keep non ESB stuff to 'The OT stunt lightsaber blades research thread' as a more suitable arena?
Hey no worries, im glad to be part of this research.
When it comes to the ESB cores, does anyone think the base of the blades was embedded in the core? The ROTJ Vader (DV6) has a rod sticking up out of the emitter. I'm guessing it was set screwed into the core or threaded. Now, would the black bolts extend all the way to the center, or would they have a normal set screw that flush with the core's surface, and gets slid inside..
When it comes to the ESB cores, does anyone think the base of the blades was embedded in the core? The ROTJ Vader (DV6) has a rod sticking up out of the emitter. I'm guessing it was set screwed into the core or threaded. Now, would the black bolts extend all the way to the center, or would they have a normal set screw that flush with the core's surface, and gets slid inside..
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Thanks. I'll still be directing my ANH posts to that thread or my own one on 'DV's painted blade etc.' just so I don't have to keep jumping around across so many.
as to your Q, I'd say there's probably not a lot of practical difference, if the blade is sliding onto the stub. Screw threaded allows the stub to be removed without disassembly of the hilt. Are you sure the stub is 'part' of the hilt & not the attachment for a blade that's been broken off (nothing left) & just left in situ?
as to your Q, I'd say there's probably not a lot of practical difference, if the blade is sliding onto the stub. Screw threaded allows the stub to be removed without disassembly of the hilt. Are you sure the stub is 'part' of the hilt & not the attachment for a blade that's been broken off (nothing left) & just left in situ?
That is a excellent question Tom.. mechanically I would say those black hex screws would hold the 8mm rod in the center of the core
But we have the picture of a core with out the hex screws in it and there is a pole attached to it right? I’m gonna have to go watch the video again.. be right back
shoot, you right.
I didn't see another set screw on that detached core (at least from our poor vantage point)
Doesn’t look like holes in it... damn...
But I think the blades were attached pretty good to the 8mm rod because they chose to hack them off rather then just detach them. The good ol’ V2 nipple treatment
Tom check this out though!
Set screw in the “nipple” of the blade! Never noticed that before, but exactly like Brandon said!
I think we discovered the core in the saber was probably older than the separate one. I think you can see the holes while it sits on the table, with no real collar visible like on the one installed.
Ahhh!! I got ya Tom! Seeing these holes in the nipple make me believe the 8mm rod is fixed to the core, then fixed to the saber, and the poles slide down the 8mm rod and locked inplace with a set screw like Brandon says
Seeing the blade in the core on the table... I wonder how it’s held in since you can’t see any hex screws in the core...
this confusing part is why I opted for a threaded connection. Granted, i used a full threaded rod instead of just having the part in the handle threaded with a smooth rod poking out, but that was one way it could stay in place without any visible set screw
Nice thread! Always wanted to make a stunt bladed version. Our eyes and ears are important to nut this one out. I remember seeing a recent lost esb doco, where Mark was dueling with a v2 type stunt, and I heard what sounded like wood hitting wood, and they were hitting pretty hard. Would be good to simulate wood hitting wood and compare the sound to the scenes sound. I am sure they used all types of blades and methods until they found something that worked. Another thing I noticed when seeing the stunt footage from rotj, though I cannot remember what doco it was. They did not appear to be as aggressive when hitting blades together from memory. This though could have just been due to the style of choreography. ESB blades look painted to me. If blades were taped up, this would also make them stronger. Length of a wooden blade also will affect its strength. If I were to make a type of stunt out of a dowel blade, I would opt to have it threaded at or toward the bottom of the 3 cell, this would make it stronger. I can only speculate.
The first blade on that table in the pic with the tang, could that be a ESB stunt blade?
I've been mulling over these details as well. Still wondering if there's a slight recess in the top of the core for the outer blade sleeve/nipple. The one in the close up looks recessed, but is that just a recess in the filler? Why is the core covered in filler anyway?
this is a good question. It seems to match the Post ANH promo shots pretty well. I think the core that's inserted into the blade is like.. a re-worked ANH stunt or something made right at that time. it doesn't look like solid metal, like you said. I wonder if it's wood... no that would be too weak. The blade even looks smooth, like it still has some reflective material on it.
I don't see that sleeve portion (with the little set screw) on the core lying on the table, it looks like the blade goes right up against or into the core. The blade is all rusty or nicked up too.
I have a seond ski pole here. I kind-of want to coat this one in scotchlite, like glue it on and wrap it around the blade and glue again?
I was thinking that might have been for an Obi Wan/Luke shared stunt. That would snake right down the neck and into the motor area. it could also be for a graflex, now that I think about it. It has to go down at least a few inches to get past the socket
thegnome
Sr Member
Have you thought about using multiple skate board bearings with different amounts of lubricant to make them move at different speeds so the blade would continue to move in it’s circular orbit while slight may still work. Using a motor just sounds like a nuisance. I don’t know, just a thought.
That’s what I’m using, the bearings really quiet down the drive shaft in my v2
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