Epoxy durability on grips for ANH sabers


Well-Known Member
Since the ANH saber grips use no screws or rivets I'm curious what folks have to say re: durability of the bonding. Is standard two-part clear epoxy strong enough to last on an heirloom qualify piece (not something for cosplay or dueling)? Is there something better?

Just wondering if this is an issue that's been discussed given the presence of screws/rivets on other graflex-based sabers (which would give a weirdo like me additional peace of mind)...


Well-Known Member
This is an issue that I just faced adding new T grips to my Vader hilt. I used a Dremel bit to score the backside of the t-grip. Then I actually scored the surface of the Chrome underneath where the grip would be glued. I used a two-part epoxy that set in 5 minutes and plastic clamps to hold it down. I don't think I would be able to pull them off if I wanted to. The bond is very very strong! I realize that many would probably not recommend scoring the Chrome underneath the grip for fear that you might ruin the Chrome they will actually show. That's probably good advice, but if you're careful, it ensures that the epoxy will actually have something to bond to.


Sr Member
I've had great luck with 2 part epoxy. I tend to use either 1 or 5 minute epoxy; set up time is definitely longer than advertised but I can get a saber gripped up in a few hours (as opposed to all day if I were to use a 1 hour epoxy). The epoxy holds the grips on very well, but should you choose to remove them, 10 minutes in the freezer and they can pop right off.

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Master Member
I'd probably recommend using E600 as well. It's a good adhesive and won't damage the saber if you need to remove it later on. More of a flexible material VS a solid like CA/super glue

matty matt

Sr Member
Epoxy and super glue will work but they tend to be brittle. This can make them pop off the saber. Silicone adhesives like VHB tape or E6000 may work better in the long run. That reminds me, I've got to fix my epoxied grips at some point.


Sr Member
I would add a vote for epoxy as a good option -- at least if you're looking for adhesives that were readily available in 1976. I used 5 min epoxy on my Gino grips years ago and it's worked perfectly since.



Master Member
I also like E6000; it gives you enough time to adjust the alignment of the grips if needed, sets well, but can be removed if you want to change to a different configuration down the line.


Legendary Member
I am not a fan of 2 part epoxy anymore

Like matt stated it can be very brittle, even if you use the right kind (plastic to metal)

It's also a PITA to clean if any leaks out from under the grip

I learned about e6000 a little while ago and used it on my r2

Right after my first experience with it I knew I would never use 2 part epoxy ever again on my grips

I use to even dye my epoxy with black caulk... not worth it to me

After all the tedious aligning on the tube, only for it to fall off. Not worth it for me.. also a pita to clean down the small area to Re glue it.. with out causing any damage

The e6000 squirts into the track channel, stick it down to the tube, if it leaks out not the end of the world let it cure 24-48 hours later. Then cut the excess e6000 off with a razor knife

So simple, I wish I knew about e6000 sooner

Only down side to e6000 is it's very bad to inhale so be sure to wear a mask or even do it near a open window

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Sr Member
In my opinion, nothing beats 5 min epoxy (plastic to metal).
Just like most things, it's all in the prep. You have to take some 100 grit sandpaper to the bottom of the grips as well as the metal flash.
You don't have to go buck wild, just enough to break up the surfaces and give something for the glue to bite into.
If you're worried about accidentally scratching the metal, just tape off the sections. And when you lay the tape down, make the exposed area thinner than the actual width of the track so that the scuffing doesn't accidentally show after you place down the track.
Also if you're using track with the correct profile, there should be a channel on the bottom. This is intentional and made for the very purpose of holding the glue.
It's easy to put too much glue in the channel and then it squishes out the sides when you squeeze it down.
So go very easy on the amount of glue, just enough that when pressed down it makes contact.



Master Member
I originally have used 5 min epoxy on everything. Every once in a while I'd put a lightsaber down on a table a bit too hard and the grips would pop off.

I then switched to 3M VHB tape on props that could get beat up a little. For those, I didn't care the grips would be raised less than 1/16th, or the thickness of the tape.

I may try E6000 though, I have to replace the grips on my Parks MPP and apply some to my Roman's MPP over the holiday season......
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