Energizer Lightsaber project - as originally made

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by thd9791, Mar 12, 2019.

  1. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So, after doing a little ball peen work on my Parks MPP, and delving into the Barbican, I was very deep in “Vader” mode.
    248233A5-F9A9-4C86-9343-595AE01FF0D7.jpeg
    After a quick trip to savers (local big thrift store) I got a Dave Matthews cd I never had and .... drum roll... a Maglite
    983C9B17-0B98-4707-A7E5-B53A486FF6A2.jpeg

    It’s the normal size, and I was worried I got one that was too short, but I quickly realized I was wrong all along, the emitter IS a separate piece. The wall of a maglite is rather thin by comparison. 895C1881-2B60-4078-9244-F9D6DE9F2BEB.jpeg

    I even found evidence of separate pieces on the cast I have (a gap underneath the choke and not above it), and evidence of layers in the choke piece 3CFD843F-F39C-4928-BAB4-C7D0A928C06F.jpeg 66A3CDFA-9D56-4C2C-8D49-9931C8928E7C.jpeg
    Also, I think the original had a cast resin shroud. Look at the bubbles in the bottom left pic!
    88C0C9E3-400F-4058-8F33-D4FF61DB80B4.jpeg
    Anyways, here’s some disassembly, a set screw pinches the guts to the wall of the flashlight 9D16EF5E-C845-4FC9-AF78-8FCF79CC7655.jpeg AAD10835-A8D3-4F51-A14A-086CAE772F79.jpeg 9D3C2653-622E-4FF0-BA13-5B7421CAC5CA.jpeg F388BBDE-2635-4F4E-AF42-DD21CF713210.jpeg 74612244-1885-476A-BF6F-D6009B3FA2A9.jpeg A06A1D15-D170-45CF-AB64-514E58419036.jpeg

    I want to make my own copy of what Don Bies did!
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. JunkSabers1138

    JunkSabers1138 Sr Member

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    I never noticed that the Bunny control box had the same button layout as the ISYHCANL saber.

    Learned my new thing today!
     
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  3. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I've been trying to figure out how they got a clean tube. This is the rest of 2 days sanding with medium-rough sandpaper. Still haven't gotten to the bottom of the knurling. The tube is thick enough to take it but... jesus... is there another way? Didn't see any sign of foil tape on the real thing 20190313_170024.jpg 20190313_165917.jpg
     
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  4. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Stick it in a friend's lathe and skim it. ;)
     
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  5. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thats what she s..

    I only have access to a drill press/drill, but maybe I can flip the tables..
     
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  6. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I DID IT

    It took an 80 grip sandpaper flappy disc in a drill press (ran the flash light against it, like a typewriter)

    Then a couple metal files in different motions, swirls, horizontally, lengthwise, turning around the tube

    Then sandpaper, 100, 200 grits, and I still have cross hatch shadows at the ends of the knurled sections, but its smooth and nearly invisible! I did try sanding and polishing but the marks from the files are still reflective. Weird thing, the tube is as smooth as glass but shows up splotchy.

    uploading photos from another device.

    P.S. I ordered 4 pieces of aluminum from online metals at 3AM last night. The dimensions of the Bunny Saber emitter confound me, they neither fit nicely into metric or american measurements, so I decided to mock up the emitter into sections and buy the next size up. I can sand things in a drill press now, if they're short pieces, so I may be able to make this darned shroud out of metal.
     
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  7. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here we go. So, yea this thing is silky smooth now, and the same diameter (down to the .01 inch) all along it. You can still see patterns in the surface though.
    20190315_121801.jpg 20190315_121724.jpg 20190315_121705.jpg 20190315_111420.jpg
    I think I have to cut at the top of the button hole or something. The shroud is more complicated than i thiught. The bevel is thick because it is the same OD as the flashlight and has to sit on top of the rim. The insert then is 2 different diameters, and the shoulder ... well I'm making mine out of round tube and rectangular stock, but I think they layered 2 layers of something around it and sculpted the block. The original is all resin up there :(

    20190315_121910.jpg 20190315_121841.jpg

    These measurements compared the 3D printed run that MCM did and the Maglite tube.
     
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  8. E Williams

    E Williams Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Was that a 3 or 4 D cell Maglite you started with?

    I didn't realize the Mag-lite tube was thick enough to cut away the knurling! I have the MCM printed kit and did a similar thing with a Brinkmann 3 D cell flashlight (Mag-lite knock-off, no knurling) but realized afterward that the button area is not quite high enough to be fully under the shroud :( From your side-by-side comparisons, it seems so, but do you think the scallop around the button will be fully under the shroud? If so whichever Mag-lite you used might be the way to go for me too!

    Something like Mother's aluminum polish should knock down the grey and bring back the aluminum color of your tube.
     
  9. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm glad you asked, I had a moment there too worrying. The button scallop will just BARELY fit under the shroud. its why the set screw is so low and not centered!
     
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  10. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm sorry, I also used a 3 cell. Finally enough, less knurling would be covered of it was longer. We'd have to use like a 5 cell or something, depending on where the knurling was..

    I plan on the insert or spacer filling the scallop space too. The emitter, in a 3 d spacial sense, confuses me as to how to make it out of one piece.. maybe cutting up a cube, using a hole saw for the tube to slide into...
     
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  11. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wicked Tom, just wicked!
     
  12. James Kenobi 1138

    James Kenobi 1138 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I always assumed they started with a 5D size Maglite and cut it down to size so there wouldn't be any knurling.
     
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  13. E Williams

    E Williams Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'd guess they either used a turned down 3 or 4 cell in the color black (that endcap doesn't look painted), or a plain aluminum tube (are any of the pics of the original high enough resolution to see if the internal threading is present? there's some kind of step in one of the pics but the image itself is so small).

    Going by this image even a 6D would not have enough length in the un-knurled section -- that section on the 6D is not as long as the distance between the endcap and start of the 3-cell button scallop that Tom said was just barely enough:

    kit-maglite-led-conversion-kit-3-watt-for-c-and-d-cell-models-maglite-3d-cell-led-conversion-kit.jpg
     
  14. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just checked my email archive. I used a 3 cell and it was perfect.

    Yes, a black one. It was turned down in a lathe.
     
  15. E Williams

    E Williams Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  16. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    There is a picture somewhere showing the threading in the tube.
     
  17. E Williams

    E Williams Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Is there a higher resolution version of the pic in the link above? I'd lean toward that visible step being threading but seems like it could also be an aluminum tube with the end bored out to accommodate the maglite end cap's threads.
     
  18. James Kenobi 1138

    James Kenobi 1138 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Ah, good to know. I was thinking the 5D had the knurling up much higher. No need to spend extra money on a 5D if it wasn't user / not needed.
     
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  19. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I couldn't resist...
    bunny3.jpg
     
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  20. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So the dv6 Control Box was used on multiple sabers?!?!
     
  21. E Williams

    E Williams Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    No that part you see on the box is the part that is below the emitter shroud on the casting... However, some have speculated that it is part of the same found part as the Vader ROTJ stunt box (as in, it was originally set into the bottom of it).
     
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  22. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah that bottom part. The one we see on the motorized stunt, turned barbican saber. This is another one on the energizer saber right?!

    I wonder if this greeblie was cast, or if they had multiples ?

    And if they had multiples and this is related to the dv6 box, maybe there is dv6 boxes hidden somewhere else?!

    Oh the excitement
     
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  23. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yea, for this one photo shoot someone put the little block part in the empty control box section. It had fallen off, was originally the "bulb release" up top. there used to be a circuit board in there, and the scrim tape did not succeed!
     
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  24. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Crazy!
     
  25. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm not sure they are the same part. They share similarities, but could be variants of the same type of part. Side by side they don't seem to line up. And when I compare my own Barbican part with Obi1Kenny's DV6 part (both of which I'm sure are going to be within a mm or so of accuracy), the holes for the screws are way off.

    Here are the two originals:

    dv6 detail.jpg
     
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  26. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  27. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Are the holes really that off? Looking underneath the DV6 box I can see the same type of pattern.

    Interesting - I think I'm falling into the category that they're two version of the same plug or box or switch or relay or....
     
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  28. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Agree Tom. These boxes have to share the same purpose... probably found in your average hardware shop back in the 70s/80s
     
  29. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  30. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So... hear me out... the Energizer box would be lined up with the farthest right edge of the box, not centered on the top part, yea? I'm thinking it's missing the left hand box and would be 3/4 the length of the full DV6 box. Would that bring the screw holes further to the right?
     
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  31. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Screen Shot 2019-03-15 at 8.44.26 PM.png

    I'm thinking more like this
     
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  32. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Doesn't matter where you move the holes to - the distance between them is way off. Also look at the seams.
     
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  33. Kovnyn

    Kovnyn Sr Member

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    Hmmm. I've already converted on Maglite to a light saber, where can one get the parts for the Energizer Vader Saber?
     
  34. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    related but different items..

    Kurtyboy what.. what exactly are the "aerial earth" plugs people talk about for the EE-3 or Vader's neckpiece? Like, in real life. After the red safety switch discovery, I'd like to search in categories, and I don't know what those plugs.. plug into!
     
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  35. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Arial/antenna plugs for old radios.

    I'm hoping to do a better comparison of the Energizer/Barbican/DV6 control box parts with 3D CAD models if I can get the dimensions right!
     
  36. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks! I forget that multiple part stereos had separate a separate tuner, my dad has a pioneer set in the livingroom. I'll have to dig through plugs, I had an idea (probably a bad one) that those holes are for 2 prongs on this mystery box
     
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