E-11 show-off

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Mr_Sparkle, Jun 28, 2006.

  1. Mr_Sparkle

    Mr_Sparkle Well-Known Member

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    Well,
    Its been a while since I've seen an E-11 buildup on here so I thought I would post what I've been up to... I'm pretty happy with it but it needs a few finishing touches like rebluing the cut-down mag and darkening up the exposed brass on the scope. I love the real weathered finish on the different parts but am hoping that a little brass black will knock down the intensity of the brass to bring it a little closer to the real deal.

    Based on a Real Sterling, Real Hengstler, Real Scope, SaberFreak's real T-Track, and RPF Cylinders.

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    NOTE: The images in the post don't seem to be loading consistantly but the "Hi-Res" links all seem to be working just fine. Just click on them if the others don't load.

    Chris Reiff
    The Parts of Star Wars
     
  2. moffeaton

    moffeaton Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm partial to those wires :D

    LOVE it.
     
  3. Prefect42

    Prefect42 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Chris,

    That E-11 you've put together looks fantastic. In fact, I rather like the "exposed brass" look quite a bit. It makes my MR version look like it hasn't seen any use.

    If you do make any more adjustments, please post the pics.

    One question: Are you going to change the color of the wires?

    Ted.
     
  4. Mr_Sparkle

    Mr_Sparkle Well-Known Member

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    I like a little of the brass showing also but I think it needs a just little more black on the scope just to get it to integrate into the blaster a bit more. I won't be painting the scope just darkening some of the brass areas. I like having the letters and numbers showing and the natural wear that it has...

    In regard to the wires... I may end up putting black wires on there but in the black and white photos of the props the wires NEVER looked black to me. Then, a while back I came across a color photo from our own MoffEaton that showed the Red and Green wires. They probably painted them black at some point but I figured I'd do it up in the colors first to see how it looked.

    Chris
    The Parts of Star Wars
     
  5. GundamZeppelin

    GundamZeppelin Sr Member

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    Great work..
     
  6. mbmcfarland

    mbmcfarland Sr Member

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    That looks great. I like the way you used the original screws to mount the scope. I want to do that, but my Sterling came with a scope rail already attached and I can't fit them under there. It's one of the wider, lower rails but looks really nice so instead of removing and replacing the rail I am thinking of shortening those screws just a bit.

    How did you attach the Hengstler box?

    Mike
     
  7. Jaintly

    Jaintly Active Member

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    That is a thing of beauty. Well done.
     
  8. Duck9000

    Duck9000 Well-Known Member

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    Looks terrific, great job
     
  9. Mr_Sparkle

    Mr_Sparkle Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the comments guys.

    Mike,
    Those screws aren't the originals that came with the scope... My scope only had one of the two screws so I had to buy replacements. I couldn't track down identical replacement shoulder screws like were in there but any 10-32 screw should fit just fine... The ones I used were just plain Socket Cap Screws from the local hardware store. They had the added benefit of no "slot" being visable in the head and were already black. The heads are a bit taller than I wanted but I'll live with it for now. They will be easy to change at some point in the future as I used a button head socket cap screw for the rear scope attachment and can easily unscrew the rail and remove the scope.

    To attach the hengstler and the cylinders I used some 3M atuomotive trim tape. Its great stuff and is black already so it hides really well. Its meant to hold trim pieces in place on cars so I figured it would do the job on the blaster. It holds really well but if I ever decide to take it off it is pretty easy to remove.

    Chris
    The Parts of Star Wars
     
  10. Treadwell

    Treadwell Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Good to see ya back 'round here, Chris.
    Nice blaster.
     
  11. Hirohawa

    Hirohawa Sr Member

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    Looks great.

    What type of paint are you using on the brass scope?
     
  12. Mr_Sparkle

    Mr_Sparkle Well-Known Member

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    Had a few questions in PMs... I'll answer them here for everyone.

    The wires are just out of an old junk box. Just solid core wire so it keeps the coil shape. They are soldered to the hengstler leads and just wrapped around the back side of the Cylinder baseplate and the ends are just tucked underneath. Here is moffeaton's old pic that shows the colored wires. (I think it was out of an odd pics thread or something a while ago. Not sure though)

    [​IMG]


    The Rail is just a half inch strip of steel from Online metals. Lonepigeon ordered the strips... I just bent them into the right shape and ground the front end down a bit to fit in the vent holes at the front. The front just got an s bend in it that locks it in the hole when the back end is secured. The back end just got a radius ground on it then I drilled and tapped the back end of the gun to receive a 6-32 button head cap screw to hold it down. The originals were just riveted in place but I wanted to be able to remove it.

    <div class='quotetop'>(Hirohawa @ Jun 28 2006, 03:00 PM) [snapback]1270147[/snapback]</div>
    Thanks. I haven't done anything to the scope... It is exactly as it was the day I got it with the original 1942 paint on it.

    Chris
    The Parts of Star Wars
     
  13. trooper70

    trooper70 Active Member

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    Outstanding work :thumbsup
     
  14. Darth Fetty

    Darth Fetty Well-Known Member

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    Great job.

    I've never seen those colored wires before.
     
  15. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Good work Chris.

    ...inspiration... must finish mine.

    <div class='quotetop'>(Darth Fetty @ Jun 28 2006, 09:09 PM) [snapback]1270235[/snapback]</div>
     
  16. Mr_Sparkle

    Mr_Sparkle Well-Known Member

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    In response to another question regarding the t-track installation and painting and installation process.

    As far as painting the t-track... I heated and installed the t-track unpainted. once it had all cooled down and returned to full rigidity I pulled the grips back out of the Sterling. Thats not an easy feat as inside the holes they re-expand a bit and didn't want to come out. They did though. I made sure to scratch numbers in the back sides and indicate which end was the front of each so I could put them all back exactly as they were. I then painted them with the Krylon Fusion Satin Black paint and let them dry. Once they dried I cramed them back into place. That was a bit of a rough few mins but they went back in eventually. I know a little paint scraped off here and there as they were cramming back in the holes but you can't see any of that once they are reinstalled. Even if you could its just an added bit of natural weathering.

    Chris
    The Parts of Star Wars
     
  17. Prefect42

    Prefect42 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Chris,

    Thanks for all of the information. In particular, your response to my question about the colored wires.

    I took a look at the b/w photo in CHRONICLES (p.91) and I agree with you. The wires don't seem to be black. Being b/w (and all of the other issues associated with trying to "read" these old prop photos) it's impossible to say for certain but it seems they are two different colors.

    Thanks, Moffeaton for the color pic.

    Ted.
     
  18. troopermaster

    troopermaster Well-Known Member

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    WOW. That's a sweet blaster you have there :thumbsup

    I really have to make me one of those,it's awesome..well done :)

    -Paul.
     
  19. Stormy320

    Stormy320 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Chris - Love your Blaster, but prefer the black wires.

    Questions:

    I know you mentioned you used tape to attach the Hengstler. I'm surprised it's strong enough. The gun is round and the box is flat. How do they match up right so the bond is strong enough and the counter doesn't set crooked?

    Also - is this the tape you used - MMM-03609?

    Finally - did you order the tape online or purchase it local?
     
  20. Mr_Sparkle

    Mr_Sparkle Well-Known Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(Stormy320 @ Jun 29 2006, 03:40 AM) [snapback]1270541[/snapback]</div>
    The tape is plenty strong. I actually ran a piece prettymuch the length of the Hengstler box oriented on the channel on the back side of the hengstler socket. That grove helps locate the box on the curve of the gun body.
    The tape has a little thickness to it as well and really sticks great. I did clean the side of the gun with a little denatured alcohol first just to make sure there was no oil or dirt that would cause a bad contact.

    The Tape I used is 3M Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape (Part # 051131 06384)
    BLACK - 1/2in x 5yd x .045in thick

    I just picked it up at the locak car parts store. Its made to attach body side mouldings, rocker panel trim, etc.
     
  21. Darth Kahnt

    Darth Kahnt Sr Member

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    Good work Chris. The scope is my favorite part.
     
  22. Hirohawa

    Hirohawa Sr Member

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    How much extra do you alot for the t-track that bends into the vent holes when measuring?

    Thanks
     
  23. Stormy320

    Stormy320 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If the original prop has the cocking lever, why didn't MR include it.

    Thanks Chris - off to find tape.
     
  24. Lear60man

    Lear60man Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Chris,
    RPF cylinders? whas that a part run or a thread I can find? Thats the only thing Im missing on mine. Thanks.
     
  25. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    Only the firing E-11 props still had cocking levers. That's why MR didn't include it.
    Technically Chris' blaster shouldn't have it but last we talked he might keep it since it's a bear to remove.
    I have to leave mine on as well when I complete my E-11 since my bolt is welded in place. A slight inaccuracy I'll have to live with.

    The "RPF cylinders" were made in a run a long time ago. They are long gone.
     
  26. Stormy320

    Stormy320 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Chris,

    I have another question.

    I found some tape, but it occurred to me that the Hengstler wouldn't be very stirdy. Doesn't it sway a little because it's just being held on by tape?

    Also, what kind of paint and color did you paint your box.

    Finally, any chance you got your counter from me about 5 years ago?

    Thanks
     
  27. Boba Debt

    Boba Debt Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Nice looking build up.



    On the grips, what did you heat them with?




    As for the cocking lever, I cut mine down so that there is just enough sticking out to guide the bolt in the buffer area of the receiver.

    Then I drill a small hole in the center and I use a cut down screw driver as a removable cocking handle.

    That way it looks accurate but retains it functionability.
     
  28. kurtyboy

    kurtyboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    A hairdryer works fine.

    <div class='quotetop'>(Boba Debt @ Jul 2 2006, 04:28 PM) [snapback]1272530[/snapback]</div>
     
  29. TazVader

    TazVader Sr Member

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    Wow that looks awesome mate. Great job....looking forward to the finished results;)

    Regards
    TAZ
     
  30. rmschneider104

    rmschneider104 Sr Member

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    Great looking E11. Very nice.
     
  31. Mr_Sparkle

    Mr_Sparkle Well-Known Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(Stormy320 @ Jul 2 2006, 01:55 AM) [snapback]1272389[/snapback]</div>
    Sorry about the delayed answers... I was out of town for the F1 race this weekend.

    In regard to the Hengstler sturdiness: The tape that I used is really great. There is a tiny bit of flex because the tape is foam tape but its not going anywhere unless I twist it off intentionally. You can shake the gun around all you want and it doesn't move.

    For paint... I used a satin black for the plastic part of the counter and a flat black for the metal socket portion. I wanted to mix up the reflectivity of the blacks to give a little more visual interest to the thing.

    No chance the counter came from you... Lonepigeon and I came across a ton of them about 8-10 years ago I think it was, I've just been waiting that long to get this thing done up. We still have a ton of the Hengstler counters left just none of the metal sockets.

    <div class='quotetop'>(Boba Debt @ Jul 2 2006, 12:28 PM) [snapback]1272530[/snapback]</div>
    As Marcus said... a hairdryer. It worked great and its tough to damage them using a hairdryer vs a full fledged heat gun.
     

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