"Dummy Sterling" E11 Build.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

I am in the process of converting a “Dummy\Deactivated Sterling” to a E11. I bought a ‘Dummy Deactivated Sterling” from www.uniquecanes.com I have a “Hengestler Type 400 Eagle Counter” and a Real M38 Scope. I am going to make my own “Scope Rail”, ‘Power Cylinders and “Counter Holder.
First up is making the “Scope Rail.

How to build a "Scope Rail".

I am going to begin to build a "Scope Rail" For my "Dummy Deactivated Sterling". I got a piece of metal Steel Strip from Lowes. I placed it in a vice made sure that it was level and strait and took out a "Hacksaw" and scored it a few times to help with the bend. Grabbed a hammer and tapped the metal down until it looked like an "L Shape".


Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

I then took a tape measure. Wrote down some measurements of the diameter of the
top vent hole and the length to the back sights and wrote them down and then I cut
the pieces that I do not need off. I also made sure to leave some inches for adjustment.

To have the "Scope Rail" stay on my "Dummy Sterling", in the front part of the rail, I measured off the width of the inside of the vent hole, took out my Dremmel and cut away. I then put the notch part back into my vice and bent back the opposite way. It worked. The reason why I am using "Steel" for the rail is because I used Aluminum the first time and when you bent Aluminum one way and bend it back the opposite way it cracked. With using steel I had no problems!

Next up was the placement of the scope. I looked at more reference photos from the film to get an idea of where to place the scope. I decided after looking at some shots to line up the front of the scope with the front of the ejection port. Once I had the scope where I wanted it. I took out some "Blue Painter's Tape" and marked the location in the front and the back with the tape. The reason why I did this is to keep the location while I try to get the measurements between the two screw holes.

I used the screws that came with the scope. I measured the distance between the two holes. Also I measured the distance between the ends of the scope leg to the hole and try to center it on the rail. This was tough because the scope legs are wider than the rail. Once I did this. I got out the drill bits and drill size chart to measure the screw size to find the right bit. I marked the location and tapped a drill point awe to get a center location and drilled a hole in the rail. I repeated the sequence for the back scope leg. After both holes were drilled I put the screws back into the rail and the scope to see how they fit.


Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

I did not want to drill into my "Dummy Sterling". After looking at some other builds and reference photos from the film. I decided that I was going to use a "Hex Screw" in the "Back Sights" to hold the Rail in place. I took some more measurements and cut the rail to where I wanted it and adjusted it in place.

Next up is making the “Counter Bracket”. While working with computers, I came across an idea
For mounting the “Counter”. On the back of pc’s there are slots that you put video, sound, usb, etc…,
Cards in for enhancement of the pc. While looking at one of them and idea came to mind to use one of the slot covers for a “Counter bracket. Before trashing an old pc, I removed a few of the “Slot Covers”.
I started to look at some film shots of placement of the counter. After getting an idea of where the location
Is, I got out some “Blue Tape” and marked of the location with the tape. I went and placed the “Slot Cover”, into the vice and taped it down with a hammer.

After I bent the “Slot Cover” I took the bent piece and checked it against the area
Where I want it to be. I then got out the Dremmel and cut off the excess. I then removed
The “Scope Rail” and removed the “Scope” and then lined up the rail and the “Slot Cover”.
I got out the drill and then put the drill into the “Hole” and the “Slot Cover”. After that was
Finished, I assembled the scope, rail and slot cover and placed it in the “Dummy Sterling”.
I put the “Counter” to see how it looks. I made a temporary display holder out of “paper napkins”
And a box of crackers for pics. How does it look so far?


Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

How to make Power Cylinders.

I had ordered “Power Cylinders” a while back and somehow misplaced them. I
decided to make my own. I used “SSKUNKY\SYNAPTYX and “PLAYFULWOLFCUB”
Templates and combined the measurements from those two for creating my “Power Cylinders”.
Al credit goes to them for the templates. In creating the “Power Cylinders” I want to use the
“Capacitors” that I ordered from EBay. If you are not up to speed with the recent discovery of the center “Capacitors” here is the link. Sign In - First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment

I started out by studying both templates and got out a pencil, paper and a ruler. I drew out
The template on the paper and got out a Xacto hobby pen knife to get a good cutout. I placed the
Paper Template on my “Dummy Sterling’ for a test fit. I then took the paper cutout and traced it on to a plastic sign and used a “Utility Blade” to score it out.

After I scored and cut out the plastic template. I took out my pencil and made some markings
On the template, ex, the bend line for the back part and where the front part where you cut and
Bend up the wings to hold the power “Cylinders”. After that I then placed the plastic template on my “Dummy Sterling” for another test fit.

I did this out for a few reasons. 1. The Plastic Template will not rip like paper. 2. I can use
the template again down the road to make more. 3. I can use the Template to drill out holes to test the
Cylinders and the “Caps”.

I then placed the template on the piece of Steel that I bought from Lowes. It is located
In the metal section where they have Sheet Metal, Aluminum and rods. I used steel
So I can bend it back and forth. I traced the template on the steel with a pencil. I took
The steel and placed it in the vice and cut it with the Dremmel.

After I cut out the base of the “Cylinder Holder” I traced the “Bend Line’ on the “Back Plate”
And I marked the “Center” part of the front part of the base with the “bend Lines” for the “Wings”.
I placed the ‘Base” in the vice. I lined up the “Bend Line” as best I could. Scored the line a few
times with a ‘Hacksaw” and tapped it down with a “Hammer”.

I then “Flipped” the “Base” so I could cut out the “Wings”. I used a Dremmel for this.

Here are some notes. If you are using a Dremmel and are using steel, by extra “Reinforced
Cutting Wheels”. I used a few for the cutting. This project was the first time for me for using a
Dremmel. The “Cutting Wheels” grounded down pretty good.

To bend the “Wings” I used a “Sheet Metal Tool Bender”. It worked well. I just held the
“base” in one hand and use the “Bender” in my other hand and bend the wings.

I bought a 3/8 “Brass Tube” from “Hobbytown U.S.A.” for the two cylinders. I got
Out my measuring tape and marked off “52mm” from each end with a pencil.
The reason why I used each end is that I will have to file down only one end of each
of the tube. I then placed each end of the tube in the vice and lined it up to the
pencil mark.

I then took out some “Blue Tape” and taped around the pencil mark with the tape.
To get an even line, I lined up the “Brass Tube” as level as I could and then with the
tape I lined the tape as close to the vice for an even line. I wrapped the tape around a
few times. I repeated the sequence on the other end of the tube.

I reset the tube in the vice a bit lower so I could begin to cut it. The reason why I did this
Is when I begin to saw, the blade is flushed against the side of the vice. This is to help
To get a straight cut. I got out a “Hacksaw” and I started to cut the tubes. In cutting, I used
a slow, “Back and Forth” motion and slowed it down when I felt I was coming to the end.
I flipped the tube and cut the other end as well.

I then placed a “Metal File” in the vice to file off the rough edges of the tube
I first placed the tube on the file and ran it back and forth a few times to smooth
The ends. After that, I placed the tube on the end and the I spun it to smooth the
Edges of the tube. After I did this I placed it on the point of the file and spun it
There to clean out any shavings that are left in the inside of the tube. I did the
Process again till I felt the edges were smooth enough. I repeated the sequence
On the other tube.


Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Next up is to drill the holes for the “Cylinders” and the “Capacitors”. To do this
Step, I first used the “Drill Bit Index Card” to find the size of the “Drill Bits” of
Both the “Cylinders and the “Capacitors”. Once I found the size of both, I placed
One of the “Cylinders” and lined them on the raised “Back plate” and traced the tube
On the “Back plate”. I made a “Crosshair” and I then placed the “Back plate” in the vice
And then I drilled the first hole. Next I drilled out the center “Capacitors”. I switched out
The “Drill Bit” and I drilled out the lower two holes and then the top hole. I then marked
The location of the other “Cylinder” and drilled out the other hole.

I placed the “Brass Tubes in the outer holes and then I placed the “Capacitors” in the
Center holes and adjusted the Brass Tubes”.

I begin to make the “End Caps” of the Cylinders next. For this I used “1/4” “Brass
End Caps”. I placed the “Caps” on my cutting mat and measured off ‘5mm” and
Marked it off with a pencil. Make sure that you measure from the closed end and NOT
From the open end. I then took the ‘End Cap” and placed it in the vice. I then as I did
With the tubes, I taped the marking with “Blue Tape. This was done as to get a straight
Cut. Also, the extra tape gave me something to hold on to while cutting.

I reset the “End Cap” in the vice like I did with the tubes. The reason is to cut above the tape.
Like before, I do not want to cut on the mark. Because, I want to leave a little above so when
I file I can be close on the “5mm” mark. I repeated the cut on the other 3 “End Caps”.

As with the tubes, I paced a ‘Metal File” in the vice and filed off the rough
Edges. With the “End Caps” I used a “Round Jewel File” to file inside of the “End Caps”
To get a good fit.

When I was at “Hobbytown U.S.A” I bought some “Hex Bolts and Nuts” for the ends
of the “Cylinders”. They are a size “2-56”. I placed the ‘Bolt” in my ‘Drill Bit Index” card
to find the size of a “Drill Bit” to drill into the center of the “End Caps” Once I found the “Bit”
I placed the ‘End Cap” on the vice and took out a “Bit Awe” and I lined up the center of the
“End Cap” with the “Tip” and using a “hammer” I tapped a starting point in the center of the
“End Cap”. I then placed the ‘”End Cap” in the vice and drilled a hole into the “End Cap”.
I repeated the process on the other three “End Caps”.
I got the “Bolts” and placed them through the holes and twisted the nuts down on
the “Bolts” till flushed against the “End Caps’. I then used the “Round Jewel File”
again on the inside of the ‘End Caps” for some touch ups.


Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.