"Dummy Sterling" E11 Build.

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Pghtrooper21, Apr 7, 2012.

  1. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I am in the process of converting a “Dummy\Deactivated Sterling” to a E11. I bought a ‘Dummy Deactivated Sterling” from www.uniquecanes.com I have a “Hengestler Type 400 Eagle Counter” and a Real M38 Scope. I am going to make my own “Scope Rail”, ‘Power Cylinders and “Counter Holder.
    First up is making the “Scope Rail.


    How to build a "Scope Rail".

    I am going to begin to build a "Scope Rail" For my "Dummy Deactivated Sterling". I got a piece of metal Steel Strip from Lowes. I placed it in a vice made sure that it was level and strait and took out a "Hacksaw" and scored it a few times to help with the bend. Grabbed a hammer and tapped the metal down until it looked like an "L Shape".


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  2. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I then took a tape measure. Wrote down some measurements of the diameter of the
    top vent hole and the length to the back sights and wrote them down and then I cut
    the pieces that I do not need off. I also made sure to leave some inches for adjustment.

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  3. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    To have the "Scope Rail" stay on my "Dummy Sterling", in the front part of the rail, I measured off the width of the inside of the vent hole, took out my Dremmel and cut away. I then put the notch part back into my vice and bent back the opposite way. It worked. The reason why I am using "Steel" for the rail is because I used Aluminum the first time and when you bent Aluminum one way and bend it back the opposite way it cracked. With using steel I had no problems!

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  4. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I then took the Rail and placed it my "Dummy Sterling" to get a good Idea of how it looks.

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  5. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Next up was the placement of the scope. I looked at more reference photos from the film to get an idea of where to place the scope. I decided after looking at some shots to line up the front of the scope with the front of the ejection port. Once I had the scope where I wanted it. I took out some "Blue Painter's Tape" and marked the location in the front and the back with the tape. The reason why I did this is to keep the location while I try to get the measurements between the two screw holes.

    I used the screws that came with the scope. I measured the distance between the two holes. Also I measured the distance between the ends of the scope leg to the hole and try to center it on the rail. This was tough because the scope legs are wider than the rail. Once I did this. I got out the drill bits and drill size chart to measure the screw size to find the right bit. I marked the location and tapped a drill point awe to get a center location and drilled a hole in the rail. I repeated the sequence for the back scope leg. After both holes were drilled I put the screws back into the rail and the scope to see how they fit.



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  6. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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  7. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I did not want to drill into my "Dummy Sterling". After looking at some other builds and reference photos from the film. I decided that I was going to use a "Hex Screw" in the "Back Sights" to hold the Rail in place. I took some more measurements and cut the rail to where I wanted it and adjusted it in place.


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  8. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Next up is making the “Counter Bracket”. While working with computers, I came across an idea
    For mounting the “Counter”. On the back of pc’s there are slots that you put video, sound, usb, etc…,
    Cards in for enhancement of the pc. While looking at one of them and idea came to mind to use one of the slot covers for a “Counter bracket. Before trashing an old pc, I removed a few of the “Slot Covers”.
    I started to look at some film shots of placement of the counter. After getting an idea of where the location
    Is, I got out some “Blue Tape” and marked of the location with the tape. I went and placed the “Slot Cover”, into the vice and taped it down with a hammer.


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  9. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    After I bent the “Slot Cover” I took the bent piece and checked it against the area
    Where I want it to be. I then got out the Dremmel and cut off the excess. I then removed
    The “Scope Rail” and removed the “Scope” and then lined up the rail and the “Slot Cover”.
    I got out the drill and then put the drill into the “Hole” and the “Slot Cover”. After that was
    Finished, I assembled the scope, rail and slot cover and placed it in the “Dummy Sterling”.
    I put the “Counter” to see how it looks. I made a temporary display holder out of “paper napkins”
    And a box of crackers for pics. How does it look so far?

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  10. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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  11. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    How to make Power Cylinders.

    I had ordered “Power Cylinders” a while back and somehow misplaced them. I
    decided to make my own. I used “SSKUNKY\SYNAPTYX and “PLAYFULWOLFCUB”
    Templates and combined the measurements from those two for creating my “Power Cylinders”.
    Al credit goes to them for the templates. In creating the “Power Cylinders” I want to use the
    “Capacitors” that I ordered from EBay. If you are not up to speed with the recent discovery of the center “Capacitors” here is the link. Sign In - First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment


    I started out by studying both templates and got out a pencil, paper and a ruler. I drew out
    The template on the paper and got out a Xacto hobby pen knife to get a good cutout. I placed the
    Paper Template on my “Dummy Sterling’ for a test fit. I then took the paper cutout and traced it on to a plastic sign and used a “Utility Blade” to score it out.

    After I scored and cut out the plastic template. I took out my pencil and made some markings
    On the template, ex, the bend line for the back part and where the front part where you cut and
    Bend up the wings to hold the power “Cylinders”. After that I then placed the plastic template on my “Dummy Sterling” for another test fit.

    I did this out for a few reasons. 1. The Plastic Template will not rip like paper. 2. I can use
    the template again down the road to make more. 3. I can use the Template to drill out holes to test the
    Cylinders and the “Caps”.


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  12. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I then placed the template on the piece of Steel that I bought from Lowes. It is located
    In the metal section where they have Sheet Metal, Aluminum and rods. I used steel
    So I can bend it back and forth. I traced the template on the steel with a pencil. I took
    The steel and placed it in the vice and cut it with the Dremmel.

    After I cut out the base of the “Cylinder Holder” I traced the “Bend Line’ on the “Back Plate”
    And I marked the “Center” part of the front part of the base with the “bend Lines” for the “Wings”.
    I placed the ‘Base” in the vice. I lined up the “Bend Line” as best I could. Scored the line a few
    times with a ‘Hacksaw” and tapped it down with a “Hammer”.

    I then “Flipped” the “Base” so I could cut out the “Wings”. I used a Dremmel for this.

    Here are some notes. If you are using a Dremmel and are using steel, by extra “Reinforced
    Cutting Wheels”. I used a few for the cutting. This project was the first time for me for using a
    Dremmel. The “Cutting Wheels” grounded down pretty good.

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  13. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    To bend the “Wings” I used a “Sheet Metal Tool Bender”. It worked well. I just held the
    “base” in one hand and use the “Bender” in my other hand and bend the wings.



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  14. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I bought a 3/8 “Brass Tube” from “Hobbytown U.S.A.” for the two cylinders. I got
    Out my measuring tape and marked off “52mm” from each end with a pencil.
    The reason why I used each end is that I will have to file down only one end of each
    of the tube. I then placed each end of the tube in the vice and lined it up to the
    pencil mark.

    I then took out some “Blue Tape” and taped around the pencil mark with the tape.
    To get an even line, I lined up the “Brass Tube” as level as I could and then with the
    tape I lined the tape as close to the vice for an even line. I wrapped the tape around a
    few times. I repeated the sequence on the other end of the tube.


    I reset the tube in the vice a bit lower so I could begin to cut it. The reason why I did this
    Is when I begin to saw, the blade is flushed against the side of the vice. This is to help
    To get a straight cut. I got out a “Hacksaw” and I started to cut the tubes. In cutting, I used
    a slow, “Back and Forth” motion and slowed it down when I felt I was coming to the end.
    I flipped the tube and cut the other end as well.


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  15. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I then placed a “Metal File” in the vice to file off the rough edges of the tube
    I first placed the tube on the file and ran it back and forth a few times to smooth
    The ends. After that, I placed the tube on the end and the I spun it to smooth the
    Edges of the tube. After I did this I placed it on the point of the file and spun it
    There to clean out any shavings that are left in the inside of the tube. I did the
    Process again till I felt the edges were smooth enough. I repeated the sequence
    On the other tube.



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  16. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Next up is to drill the holes for the “Cylinders” and the “Capacitors”. To do this
    Step, I first used the “Drill Bit Index Card” to find the size of the “Drill Bits” of
    Both the “Cylinders and the “Capacitors”. Once I found the size of both, I placed
    One of the “Cylinders” and lined them on the raised “Back plate” and traced the tube
    On the “Back plate”. I made a “Crosshair” and I then placed the “Back plate” in the vice
    And then I drilled the first hole. Next I drilled out the center “Capacitors”. I switched out
    The “Drill Bit” and I drilled out the lower two holes and then the top hole. I then marked
    The location of the other “Cylinder” and drilled out the other hole.

    I placed the “Brass Tubes in the outer holes and then I placed the “Capacitors” in the
    Center holes and adjusted the Brass Tubes”.


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  17. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I begin to make the “End Caps” of the Cylinders next. For this I used “1/4” “Brass
    End Caps”. I placed the “Caps” on my cutting mat and measured off ‘5mm” and
    Marked it off with a pencil. Make sure that you measure from the closed end and NOT
    From the open end. I then took the ‘End Cap” and placed it in the vice. I then as I did
    With the tubes, I taped the marking with “Blue Tape. This was done as to get a straight
    Cut. Also, the extra tape gave me something to hold on to while cutting.

    I reset the “End Cap” in the vice like I did with the tubes. The reason is to cut above the tape.
    Like before, I do not want to cut on the mark. Because, I want to leave a little above so when
    I file I can be close on the “5mm” mark. I repeated the cut on the other 3 “End Caps”.


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  18. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    As with the tubes, I paced a ‘Metal File” in the vice and filed off the rough
    Edges. With the “End Caps” I used a “Round Jewel File” to file inside of the “End Caps”
    To get a good fit.

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    When I was at “Hobbytown U.S.A” I bought some “Hex Bolts and Nuts” for the ends
    of the “Cylinders”. They are a size “2-56”. I placed the ‘Bolt” in my ‘Drill Bit Index” card
    to find the size of a “Drill Bit” to drill into the center of the “End Caps” Once I found the “Bit”
    I placed the ‘End Cap” on the vice and took out a “Bit Awe” and I lined up the center of the
    “End Cap” with the “Tip” and using a “hammer” I tapped a starting point in the center of the
    “End Cap”. I then placed the ‘”End Cap” in the vice and drilled a hole into the “End Cap”.
    I repeated the process on the other three “End Caps”.
     
  19. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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  20. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    I got the “Bolts” and placed them through the holes and twisted the nuts down on
    the “Bolts” till flushed against the “End Caps’. I then used the “Round Jewel File”
    again on the inside of the ‘End Caps” for some touch ups.


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  21. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    After this was done, I started to assemble the “Power Cylinders” to see how it
    Looks all put together. I put the “Brass Tubes” in the holes and set them on the
    “Wings”. Next I placed the “End Caps” on the ends of the “Brass Tubes”. Then,
    I placed the “Capacitors” in the center holes. I aligned up the “Brass tubes” and
    The “Caps” and took pics.

    I then got my “Dummy Sterling”, my Scope with the Rail, my Hengestler, and
    And placed everything in place for a test fit. I used a plastic container and a cookie
    Box to hold the “Dummy Sterling in place while I placed everything on the sterling
    And took some pics. How does it look so far?


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  22. RoCKo

    RoCKo Sr Member

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    That´s a hell of a lot pictures... WOW! :lol

    You did some amazing work on this Sterling, mate!
    I especially love what you did with those power cylinders! :love:thumbsup
    Keep the good work up, i will follow this thread closely!
     
  23. Clutch

    Clutch Master Member

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    Great job!!!
     
  24. Panzer

    Panzer Well-Known Member

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    Wow, great work so far. I too have a scope and Hengstler. Hopefully I can get me a demill Sterling and get to work like you have. This thread and your useful pictures should help me quite a bit.
     
  25. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    For $449.00 you can get a "Dummy Sterling" From Unique Canes!

    British Sterling Display made from Original L2A3 Parts Kit.

    They also have other "Star Wars" Blasters and things as well!

    Andy
     
  26. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

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    Excellent work!
     
  27. Robert McLain

    Robert McLain Sr Member

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    Great Job! I'm in the middle of a sterling conversion myself so I'll be watching this thread!

    Robert:)
     
  28. youngwm

    youngwm Active Member

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    Andy,

    This is turning out great! Awesome Job... Good pics as well really informative. That blaster looks spot on..

    Your friend,

    Mike
     
  29. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    How to convert a Plastic "Hengester Socket\Connector".

    Since I do not have a "Metal Socket\Connector" for my counter. I am going to convert my plastic one. I took out my "E11 Hyperfirm" and took some measurements of the "Cutout" section of the counter. I measured the distance from the top, bottom, left and right. Made the markings on the "Socket". Took out a metal ruler and connected the lines. I got my "Xacto knife and kept scoring till I cut out the center. I got some "Jewler's Needle Files" to smooth it out. Got my "Counters" and slipped it in too see how it looks and compaired it to the "Hyperfirm".

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  30. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Next up is sodering the tubes to the base. To do this I had some help. I am not good with sodering. First the front of the tubes were sodered. Then I did my best to allign the tubes as best as I can and then soder the back caps and run a bead on the backplate allong the tubes. Then soder the tubes to the "V" wings.
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  31. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Next up I beveled off the "Backplate". I was studying "Play Wolf Cub" modified Template on the variations of the "Powercylinders" I decided to trim off the back of mine. I used a pencil to mark the lines on the back of the "Backplate" and secured it in the vice. I used a "Dremmel" to cut off the corners and to sand off any remaining pieces of metal. When using a "Dremmel"
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  32. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Next up is to set the "Center Caps" and tack them in. I frst used a "Utility Knife" to remove the plastic sleave around the "Caps". Then I used a pen awe to tap and mark the area where I wanted to drill the holes for the front wires to sit. I used a dremmel to drill the holes a little deeper I did not want to go all the way through. I did this so that the wires would have a place to sit, so that they can be tacked with one bead of soder. Once the pilot holes were drilled. I began to place the "Caps" in and try to get them as level and even as I could. Once as I got them where I wanted them. I trimmed off and shaped the front wire. Then I got help again to soder the back of the "Caps". I started with the bottom and sodered each one. One at a time. This was to make sure they were placed were I wanted them. After the back was finished, the front wires were tacked.
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  33. MFP 2020

    MFP 2020 Sr Member

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    ":thumbsup"
     
  34. Starsky

    Starsky Member

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    What great pictures! Such a lot of work and detail going into this, thanks for sharing it with us. I was wondering how the scope rail should be fixed at the front and now I've got a good idea of what to do.
     
  35. Filandrius

    Filandrius Well-Known Member

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    That is an EPIC build. Fascinating. And incredible work on the scratch-build parts, too. Congrats!
     
  36. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Painting the parts.
    To secure the front screws I untightened the screws to shorten the bolts. When I got the bolts to where I wanted them to be, I used a "Jewel File" to roughen up the front of the end caps and use a papertowel to wipe off any excess shavings. Then I dapen my hands with a moist paper towel. Then I used "Kwick Steel" to hold them into place.
    "Kwick Steel" is a type of Epoxy that comes in a tube. First You cut off what you need to work with and then put the rest back intoo the tube and put the cap back on to seal the tube to prevent it from hardening. Then you need to dapen your hands with a moist paper towel. Grab the piece of 'Kwick Steel and roll and kneed it till it turns into a solid color. Then very quickly place the piece of "Kwick Steel" on the end cap. and place the screw back into place and press and hold. I repeated the process on the other cap. Note! "Kwick Steel" cures/dries VERY FAST! you have to be quick to work with it.
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  37. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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  38. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    Next I used my "Utility Blade" to cut off any excess "Kwick Steel" from the areas arround the "Bolts and End Caps". After wards I used "Blue Painters Tape" to tape the edge of the blade for throwing it out.
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  39. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    After, letting the "Kwick Steel" set for a day, I began to paint the parts, ie the "Power Cylinders", Counter holder and Counter/Socket.
    For the paint I used Krylon, Primer & Paint Flat Black. I sent email to Unique caines whom I ordered my "Dummy\Deactivated Stering from and ask what type of paint that he used on assembeling the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" . He replied back saying that he used "Flat Black" and polish it wth a cloth after drying.
    I took the pieces out on the wall and layed out the paper. I set the "Power Cylinders" on some pieces of scrap wood . I read the instructions on the can and shook the can for a few minutes and checked the direction of the wind and sprayed away.

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  40. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

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    In painting the counter, I removed the two screws, from the counter. I removed the plastic cover. I placed some "Blue Painters Tape" over the clear plastic. I used a "Xacto Hobby Knife" to trim along the clear window. and removed the excess. I places the counter and the screws in a "Ziplock" plastic bag for safekeeping.
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  41. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
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  42. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
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    I used a wire hanger to place the Counter Socket and counter on while spraying. I held out the "hanger" and sprayed away. I did not get a chance to take a picture of spraying the counter and socket. So I took a picture of of it afterwards. I just placed the wire in the two holes of the plastic part of the counter and set it off to one side and place the wire into the hole of the counter holder and placed the wire through the front and back of the socket and set it on the other side. I did two coats. Left dry for two days and sprayed another two coats and let dry. The instructions on the can said to let dry for 2 hours then you can add on another coat. I let it sit for two days.
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  43. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    Here are some pictures of the pieces after the painting. I will be doing some touchups on the front of the counter. I will retape the front and trim it out with a "Xacto Hobby Knife" and spray again.
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  44. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
  45. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    I saw a tip from a fellow trooper on "FISD\Whitearmor.net" of using 2 Neodymium Magnets 1 x 1/4 x1/16 to hold the "Power Cylinders" in place. I like this. In case if I am going to show my "Dummy Sterling" at an event, I ilike the idea of being able to remove the "Power Cylinders" for transport.
    I bought a set of two "Neodymium Magnets" for $ 4.98 US on Ebay. It came in a small box. I found out that they are strong and they hold strong. I have place a US Dime currency allong with a measuring tape for reference. Also, I placed the magnets on the Mag houser as reference as how the will be holding the 'Power Cylinders".
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  46. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    After doing some touch ups on the front of the Counter and on the underside of the "Power Cylinders". I decided to assemble the pieces and see how it looks. I put the front plastic onto the counter and screwed it into place. I place the Counter into the Socket. I screwed the Counter back into place under the "Scope Rail" I placed the "Scope Rail" on the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" and locked it into place with the "Hex Bolt". I placed the two Magnets on the "Mag House" and set the "Power Cylinders" on top of the 2 Neodymium Magnets. I set the Counter on the Counter Holder and took some pictures to share. I place the "Dummy\Deactivated Sterling" on top of some "Ziplock Boxes" for holding the build in place for picture taking.
    How does it look so far?
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  47. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
  48. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
  49. Pghtrooper21

    Pghtrooper21 Member

    Trophy Points:
    191
    Next up "T-Track".
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  50. Jonny B

    Jonny B Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    Looking good man! Glad to see you didn't fall into the targeting cylinder trap, ie; puting them on angled to the barrel instead of parallel.

    So, before you bash your head on a wall over how to do the T-Tracks, like I did on my first E-11 all those eons ago, I'm going to impart my great and powerfull wisdom unto you :lol

    Get a block of wood, 2"x4" will be fine.
    Drill a hole in it, matching the size of the Sterlings vents, about 1/2" deep.
    Light a candle, have gloves on.
    LIGHTLY wave the T-Track end over the candle.
    Put the now heated end in the hole and bend it using your gloved hand.
    Prest'o Change'o, bent T-Track that will fit.

    This DOES take some practice so if you have an extra piece use it a few time to get the hang of it. End result is very uniform so all the tracks look the same.

    Good luck!:thumbsup
     

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