Dreads again.

[Jmen]

Hello guys. This question for that people, who already has silicone dreads. I want to know - what is the weight of all of your dreads and what is the weight of one of your dreads. And please. tell me, how long is your longest and shortest dreads, and what diameter is it?
Thnx, Jmen.

 

[LunaticNic]

Hey Jmen, generally silicone isn't used for dreads, I've heard of latex being used, however most of the time it's Smooth-on's flex foam it VIII.
My dreads are 2.5cm in diameter, and are 60-61 cm long (don't have any short or medium dreads yet).

 

[Jmen]

Hey Jmen, generally silicone isn't used for dreads, I've heard of latex being used, however most of the time it's Smooth-on's flex foam it VIII.
My dreads are 2.5cm in diameter, and are 60-61 cm long (don't have any short or medium dreads yet).

Hey, Nic. thnx for this. here is my thing - i cant find latex or smooth-on materials (with good price in my country), so i want try to do it with silicone. (we have some good now). but i am afraid - it can be too heavy.

 

[Riowc ProtoPred]

Has anyone tried neoprene (sp?) coil?

 

[Shoguno]

Yes or Backer Rods..... unless you have a good example of the Neoprene Coil a lot of us here have already tried Backer Rods ..... they do not have the same flexibility as Flexible Latex foam.... :/

 

[Riowc ProtoPred]

I found some on either eBay or amazon. I'll put a link in, they aren't as flexible as foam but the foam I'm use to using needs an oven to cure it so I never thought of another kind. I may try the other, the neoprene coil is flexible though not as flexible as molded foam but much more flexible than backer rod, but it is a type pf foam. Ok it's was E-bay and it's called "CLOSED CELL SPONGE CORD NEOPRENE/EPDM 3/4" DIA X 50 FT LONG". Couldn't copy the link for some reason.

 

[Wreav]

Guys. This post is from 2016, there have been necessary posts to aid people in understanding the dread procedure.. To add, Flexfoam 4-10 range are generally used for dreads.
Backer rod is the common one showed on youtube seeing as it's much safer route than sculpting/creating your own foam dreads.
Anyway, I stick to the flexfoam dreads, their movement tends to be second to none.

 

[Jmen]

Guys. This post is from 2016.

So what?

 

[Wreav]

Jmen, read what I wrote prior to highlighting one line...

 

[Jmen]

Jmen, read what I wrote prior to highlighting one line...

It was only 1 line there.

 

[Wreav]

If it was only one line then I simply suggest to delete your cookies or refresh the page...

 

[Jmen]

If it was only one line then I simply suggest to delete your cookies or refresh the page...

Wow... How much it will cost me for this advice?

 

[Wreav]

Jmen, your immature response suggests you simply didn't read what I wrote.

 

[Shoguno]

Ok ok let'S face it Jmen there is NO limited time for a post you are absolutely RIGHT..... like Wreav said FlexFoam 4-10 range is the best .... and no it is free of charge my friend

 

[Wreav]

Shogun it would be nice to have an updated post as many good posts get backdated.

 

[Mardikrewe]

I have trying like mad to create a dread of old. Bambooie style, extra flexible with decent tear strength.

This has been consuming me as every time I get close, I'm that far away again. Any help on the receipe of olden days would be greatly appreiciated.

Here is where I'm at for the present anyway:

1. Using 2# & 3# density foam, both Smooth-on and Monster Makers.
2. Mold Max 30 silicone mold.
3. Wax based release agent as the cheaper brands (and or silicone based) appear to cause the foam to collapse every time.
4. Perfect ratio mix while mixing well.
5. Room temp 75.
6. Using back pressure and not on other attempts.

Still in the works of coming up with a perfect way of casting but Smooth-on is quite close while Monster Makers is a wee bit stiff, not bad but not perfect either.

The issue is ..... I have to go through these procedures on every single dread and wonder if it's nessesary and possibly the problem lies in the receipe?

1. Heat room to 75.
2. Heat mold to 80 / 90.
3. Mix and mix until chemical reaction starts.
4. Use wax based release agent.

Still yet I only have less than a 50% success rate on getting foam not to collapse in smaller areas mainly towards the bottom of the dread (furthest inside the mold).

Good Gravy I could use some help.

 

[Shoguno]

Mardikrewe then i would suggest you listen to this ;-)

 

[Mardikrewe]

AWESOME! Thanks shogun!!

Is there another video where he talks about the actual foam mixing and pouring?

I will begin my search on him to see what brand and density of foam he's using. Thanks again!

 

[Mardikrewe]

Think I nailed it. These are not for sale just for personal use.

The best result to date for:
1. Foam density
2. Floppy effect
3. Exterior finish

A) Monster Makers 2# density foam (Less persnickitty than Smooth on's).
B) Using back pressure seems to create a uniform expansion.
C) Wax based release agent (no collapse).
D) Latex outer shell.

I think the latex gives the once a wee bit stiff Monster Makers foam added weight which in turn makes for a better hang and super floppiness. The finish, once powered and cleaned is amazing. Most importantly, I believe the latex coat makes the dread rather strong as well not to mention should be a great attachment to the head being latex to latex.

Used black latex, watered down 3/1 and double dipped the entire dread in it.

THE MADNESS IS OVER!!

Thanks for everyones help. Eagelwoods latex dipping tip was the finest thing since sliced bread.

 

[Mardikrewe]

I lied ..... the madness was no where near over.

VERY touchy process!!!!

Okay, to date I have found Smooth-on's flex foam 3 or 4 to be the best overall outcome.
Considering:
1. Density
2. Skin
3. Floppy life like movement.

There are multiple things I had to figure out along the way. Hope this helps others.

1. Room temp must be a minimum of 75, 78 being better. 80 if you can handle it.
(Lower temps seemed to cause the foam to collapse at it's thinnest.)
2. The mold "has" to be cleaned out after each and every pull. Sure most will not like my cleaning agent but using 91% alcohol.
(ANYTHING left inside the mold will cause the next skin to stick even harder)
3. Back pressure on pour point at a maximum.
(Gives uniform density with no voids)
4. 40 grams part A / 23 grams part B.
(Although the cans say 2/1 mix ratio, on the website spec sheet says a bit more part B)
5. Mix until the very last second before pouring.
(Not mixing long enough causes horrible results)
6. Weep hole at bottom most pointy tip of dread plugged after weep out.
(seems to allow better tip expansion and equal density)
7. 2 hour wait pull time.
(Any less seems to collapse the areas you touch / pull on)
8. Be "VERY" careful removing dread. Seems the lower the density, the weaker the skin.
(The skin formed on the foam is rather thin and weak and tears quite easy)

All I hope is that this saves anyone else trying this from loosing their minds like I almost did .