Does Bondo spot putty work on resin?

Gigatron

Gigatron

Sr Member
Hey guys,

In another thread, I had mentioned repairing all the imperections in a resin MiM ALIENS Pulse Rifle kit. So, in the course of correcting some serious warpage, I did some cosmetic damage to the shroud. I need to re-contour the area of the magwell.

I was thinking that I could use bondo, as the area that needs to be reapired is triangular in shape, maybe 3/16" deep at it's thickest, 3" long, and about an 1 1/2" at it's widest. Plus there are a buch of other pinholes and air bubbles that need to be filled.

Would bondo do well on an area of that size and thickness, or will it just fall off, once it dries? Are there any special prep steps I should take, or precautions I should be aware of?

Thanks,
Fred
 
Hey Fred

I don´t see a reason why it shouldn´t work!?
Give the resin a treatment with some coarse sandpaper at the areas you want to apply the bondo.

Markus
 
If by spot putty, you mean the one part in a tube stuff then no. It's not designed for more than filling in small imperfections.

But two part bondo will work fine.
 
What is more resilient (harder to sand) the bondo or the resin?

If the bondo is tougher, I'd stay away. I don't use bondo though, and I know it is meant to be sanded.

Try Apoxie Sculpt.

You can wet it once its in place and shape it, and it sands line pine (maybe just slightly tougher).

It sticks to just about anything. I beleive its claimed it even sticks to Teflon.

My favorite (as you may recall) for small pin-hole type filling is Elmer's wood putty. Cheap, effective, easy to use.
 
I have used bondo 2-part for about ten years and recently discovered Apoxie Sculpt, the stuff mentioned by PHA. My vote goes to AS.

Bondo works great for pin holes but the trick is to use VERY LITTLE. Don't pile it on as it dries pretty quickly and is a nightmare to sand. For detail work, its the pits. You cannot sculpt with it, any more than you can sculpt a hardening batch of melted Taffy .

Apoxie sculpt is FAR easier to work with and much better for detail work. Its basically a stiff clay, smooths with water and gives you about a half hour to work with. If I knew then what I know now, I would have tossed Bondo in the trash long ago.
 
Talisen said:
Is Apoxie sculpt a Hobbystore item or something from Home Depot?
Click to expand...


From everything I've read, it's online, only.

And having said that, I ordered the 1lber, directly from Aves :cool

Thanks for the suggestions, guys :)



Rob, is there a particular Elmers wood putty that you use? The bucket I have is chalky and kind of dry - doesn't really stick to much. Maybe I have a bad batch, or it's older than I remember. But it's always in a sealed container and I don't leave it open, even when I'm using it.

-Fred
 
The Elmer's I use I buy in the smallest quantities for that very reason. If air gets in it will dry out. But if its not completely dry, water may re-activate it.

The packaging is in the traditional Elmer's white with blue writing, orange lid. I buy the little, "mini-flower pot" shaped container.

The putty itself is a mustard yellow.

It too smooths with a little bit of water. If you get JUST the right amount of water, it will help adhesion as you spread it on. Straight out of the tub, it may not "Grab" right away, especially if its started to dry, even just a little. But a tiny bit of water, and your golden. Too much water, and it gets too thin to work with.

As long as you don't need a robust filler (the finished, cured, painted area may still ding where the putty is) the Elmer's is perfect. Pinholes, minor depressions where the item won't be subject to extreme handling, fine to moderate scratches/gouges - its all good. It also sands like a dream; almost too easily

The main reason to use it? For small touch-up areas it works as well or better than the name-brand, hobby-specific fillers (like Squadron), and you get three to four times the amount of putty for half the cost.
 
On the Aves Apoxie Sculpt, it should work wonders for your current challenge.

What you describe is too much for the Elmer's. But the Aves should do well.

I find that I usually have to shape it by hand (using water to smooth it) and get it close to the final shape, then sand it to complete the process and get the final result.

Its slightly challenging to work with in the sense that it is a two-parter that you have to mix and kneade for at least two minutes prior to applying. Two minutes doesn't sound bad, but its heavy consistency requires a lot of effort.

Your fingers will get tired and it gets real sticky!

I usually set aside the blended ball of sculpting material, then wash my hands first, so that I can pick up my subject with NON-sticky hands, then prepare to apply the Apoxie where I need it.

I'll have to post some pics of where and how I have used it...

By the way, my tubs are 5-6 years old, and look awful. But it still blends, applies, and cures just fine!
 
PHArchivist said:
I'll have to post some pics of where and how I have used it...
Click to expand...

Ah - slam dunk...

Check this thread:

http://www.therpf.com/f9/totokia-gaffi-build-137576/

The blend between the totokia's pineapple and the club shaft was done with the Apoxie. The thread shows the "Before", "During", and "After".

Also, you can clearly see the pinholes in the pommel, which were filled with Elmer's. No "During" shot, but you see the "Before" and "After".
 
Amazon.com sells Apoxie Sculpt as well. It arrives well and quickly.

Let us know how you find it G!

Unfortunately, I ordered my first batch about four months after the heavy sanding work on my Threepio. When I realized I could have just pressed this stuff on and smoothed it smooth with a wet finger instead of killing my arms and eating buckets of dust, I could have screamed.
 
Ok, here's one more question, for the Apoxie Sculpt users - how well does it take adhesives, like crazy glue or 2-part epoxy?

I need to build up some areas in the shroud, that are going to be attachment points for the grenade launcher, so if the AS takes CA like resin does, it'll make for a really strong bond.

-Fred
 
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