Does Bondo spot putty work on resin?

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by Gigatron, Jan 31, 2012.

  1. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    Hey guys,

    In another thread, I had mentioned repairing all the imperections in a resin MiM ALIENS Pulse Rifle kit. So, in the course of correcting some serious warpage, I did some cosmetic damage to the shroud. I need to re-contour the area of the magwell.

    I was thinking that I could use bondo, as the area that needs to be reapired is triangular in shape, maybe 3/16" deep at it's thickest, 3" long, and about an 1 1/2" at it's widest. Plus there are a buch of other pinholes and air bubbles that need to be filled.

    Would bondo do well on an area of that size and thickness, or will it just fall off, once it dries? Are there any special prep steps I should take, or precautions I should be aware of?

    Thanks,
    Fred
     
  2. OdiWan72

    OdiWan72 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hey Fred

    I don´t see a reason why it shouldn´t work!?
    Give the resin a treatment with some coarse sandpaper at the areas you want to apply the bondo.

    Markus
     
  3. Rebelscum

    Rebelscum Sr Member

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    If by spot putty, you mean the one part in a tube stuff then no. It's not designed for more than filling in small imperfections.

    But two part bondo will work fine.
     
  4. PHArchivist

    PHArchivist Master Member

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    What is more resilient (harder to sand) the bondo or the resin?

    If the bondo is tougher, I'd stay away. I don't use bondo though, and I know it is meant to be sanded.

    Try Apoxie Sculpt.

    You can wet it once its in place and shape it, and it sands line pine (maybe just slightly tougher).

    It sticks to just about anything. I beleive its claimed it even sticks to Teflon.

    My favorite (as you may recall) for small pin-hole type filling is Elmer's wood putty. Cheap, effective, easy to use.
     
  5. NakedMoleRat

    NakedMoleRat Sr Member

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    I have found that JB Kwick (The faster acting JB Weld) has taken care of ALL of my needs with prop building.
     
  6. thegreatgalling

    thegreatgalling Sr Member

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    I have used bondo 2-part for about ten years and recently discovered Apoxie Sculpt, the stuff mentioned by PHA. My vote goes to AS.

    Bondo works great for pin holes but the trick is to use VERY LITTLE. Don't pile it on as it dries pretty quickly and is a nightmare to sand. For detail work, its the pits. You cannot sculpt with it, any more than you can sculpt a hardening batch of melted Taffy .

    Apoxie sculpt is FAR easier to work with and much better for detail work. Its basically a stiff clay, smooths with water and gives you about a half hour to work with. If I knew then what I know now, I would have tossed Bondo in the trash long ago.
     
  7. Talisen

    Talisen Sr Member

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    Is Apoxie sculpt a Hobbystore item or something from Home Depot?
     
  8. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    The red Bondo Glazing Putty works excellent on resin!!! I use it all the time. Regular 2 part Bondo also works well.

    FB
     
  9. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    From everything I've read, it's online, only.

    And having said that, I ordered the 1lber, directly from Aves :cool

    Thanks for the suggestions, guys :)



    Rob, is there a particular Elmers wood putty that you use? The bucket I have is chalky and kind of dry - doesn't really stick to much. Maybe I have a bad batch, or it's older than I remember. But it's always in a sealed container and I don't leave it open, even when I'm using it.

    -Fred
     
  10. PHArchivist

    PHArchivist Master Member

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    The Elmer's I use I buy in the smallest quantities for that very reason. If air gets in it will dry out. But if its not completely dry, water may re-activate it.

    The packaging is in the traditional Elmer's white with blue writing, orange lid. I buy the little, "mini-flower pot" shaped container.

    The putty itself is a mustard yellow.

    It too smooths with a little bit of water. If you get JUST the right amount of water, it will help adhesion as you spread it on. Straight out of the tub, it may not "Grab" right away, especially if its started to dry, even just a little. But a tiny bit of water, and your golden. Too much water, and it gets too thin to work with.

    As long as you don't need a robust filler (the finished, cured, painted area may still ding where the putty is) the Elmer's is perfect. Pinholes, minor depressions where the item won't be subject to extreme handling, fine to moderate scratches/gouges - its all good. It also sands like a dream; almost too easily

    The main reason to use it? For small touch-up areas it works as well or better than the name-brand, hobby-specific fillers (like Squadron), and you get three to four times the amount of putty for half the cost.
     
  11. PHArchivist

    PHArchivist Master Member

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    On the Aves Apoxie Sculpt, it should work wonders for your current challenge.

    What you describe is too much for the Elmer's. But the Aves should do well.

    I find that I usually have to shape it by hand (using water to smooth it) and get it close to the final shape, then sand it to complete the process and get the final result.

    Its slightly challenging to work with in the sense that it is a two-parter that you have to mix and kneade for at least two minutes prior to applying. Two minutes doesn't sound bad, but its heavy consistency requires a lot of effort.

    Your fingers will get tired and it gets real sticky!

    I usually set aside the blended ball of sculpting material, then wash my hands first, so that I can pick up my subject with NON-sticky hands, then prepare to apply the Apoxie where I need it.

    I'll have to post some pics of where and how I have used it...

    By the way, my tubs are 5-6 years old, and look awful. But it still blends, applies, and cures just fine!
     
  12. PHArchivist

    PHArchivist Master Member

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    Ah - slam dunk...

    Check this thread:

    http://www.therpf.com/f9/totokia-gaffi-build-137576/

    The blend between the totokia's pineapple and the club shaft was done with the Apoxie. The thread shows the "Before", "During", and "After".

    Also, you can clearly see the pinholes in the pommel, which were filled with Elmer's. No "During" shot, but you see the "Before" and "After".
     
  13. thegreatgalling

    thegreatgalling Sr Member

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    Amazon.com sells Apoxie Sculpt as well. It arrives well and quickly.

    Let us know how you find it G!

    Unfortunately, I ordered my first batch about four months after the heavy sanding work on my Threepio. When I realized I could have just pressed this stuff on and smoothed it smooth with a wet finger instead of killing my arms and eating buckets of dust, I could have screamed.
     
  14. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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  15. Rylo

    Rylo Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yep! :thumbsup

     
  16. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    Ok, here's one more question, for the Apoxie Sculpt users - how well does it take adhesives, like crazy glue or 2-part epoxy?

    I need to build up some areas in the shroud, that are going to be attachment points for the grenade launcher, so if the AS takes CA like resin does, it'll make for a really strong bond.

    -Fred
     
  17. Rebelscum

    Rebelscum Sr Member

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    It will take it perfectly.
     
  18. MattMunson

    MattMunson Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  19. Sluis Van Shipyards

    Sluis Van Shipyards Master Member

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    It works, but don't use it for anything large. I use it all the time on model kits.
     
  20. ave4uevoli

    ave4uevoli Sr Member

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  21. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    Very informative videos, Matt. Thanks :cool

    Ok, so my order of Apoxie Sculpt arrived, last night (the 1lb kit is very deceiving - especially with what they charge for shipping).

    So, looking over the package, they say it has a batter-like consistency. How do you keep this stuff from running all over the place, if it's a watery mess?

    Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

    -Fred
     
  22. Rebelscum

    Rebelscum Sr Member

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    The apoxie I have always used isn't batter-like at all. It's quite a bit thicker, no chance of running. Kind of like molding clay. It will take water (like dip your fingers in water) to get the finish to be nice and slick.
     
  23. PHArchivist

    PHArchivist Master Member

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    Agree totally with Rebelscum, and am confused by the "batter-like consistency".

    I'll have to check the directions on the labeling of mine. And Fred if you can post pics of the Apoxie, I'd be interested in seeing if its the same.
     
  24. Delmustator

    Delmustator Sr Member

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    I use JB Weld Kwick for all my resin repair needs. Used with wax paper, you can apply it smooth and it trims easily. Once hardened, sands easily also. I used it for tons of stuff.
     
  25. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    This was an error, on my part (sorta). There's a printing smudge on the back of the packaging, where it looks like the word "batter", if you look at it just right. Reading further through the packaging, it says putty-like, so I guess it's safe to assume that the first one says "Putty-like" and not "Batter-Like" :facepalm :lol. Though, over the course of the packaging, they do like to use different descriptors, for their product. There's both "putty-like", and "clay-like", in the description and "how to use" section.


    Mine will probably look different, because after seeing the 1lb tub on youtube, I looked mine over and saw that they sent me the 4oz (though they charged me for the 1lb). The size should have been the initial tip-off, but you can't judge how much something will weigh, simply by it's size.




    I've had JB Kwik flake off, on too many projects, to use it for anything other than thread cement, anymore. I can't get it to stick to anything other than itself, and I need something that's going to act amlost like a part of the original casting.


    I'm waiting to hear back from Aves, to see what they're going to say about returning the 4oz, for the 1lb (considering it's already paid for and I don't think I should have to pay for return shipping).

    -Fred
     
  26. PHArchivist

    PHArchivist Master Member

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    Checekd mine and "putty" is likewise the word used.
     
  27. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    I've contacted Aves about the incorrect order and they told me that I could keep the 1/4 set they sent and they would get me the 1lb set, ASAP. Now that's some good customer service :thumbsup.

    -Fred
     
  28. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    Aves Apoxie Sculpt is similar to Plumbers putty but less grainy. Once mixed it's like clay and dries rock hard in about 3 hours. It starts to harden in about an hour. I have the 4 lbs bucket at my house.

    You can accelerate the drying in an oven and smooth it with water or alcohol.

    If you want a more fluid product, try the Aves Paste. Self leveling and more liquid consistency.


    FB
     
  29. Gigatron

    Gigatron Sr Member

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    So, I've had a day and change, to play with this stuff and I have to say - I'm pretty impressed. I can fill in odd-shaped gaps that I had written off as imposible to fill with styrene. It sands to shape, quite well, and you can add new clay on top of old, and blend it seamlessly, without concern of it falling off.

    Have to say, I'm pretty * happy with this product - it's solving a lot of issues I would have struggled with, before.

    Thanks for the recommendation, everyone :cool.

    -Fred
     

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