@dl44blaster

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by chubsANDdoggers, Jun 22, 2017.

  1. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Welcome to my dl-44 blaster journal. The goal has always been to design and then build ALL the dl-44 blaster’s to as close to screen accuracy as I could..[​IMG]

    You can also find me on Instagram and Shapeways..[​IMG]

    If you’re just joining in on the fun what follows is different ideas, techniques, designs and builds I’ve been apart of over years. These are always a “work in progress” as I’m always improving myself but below there is definitely some good stuff to be found and shared for sure..

    Below is a direct link to all builds/mods as well as their post entry number..

    #212
    Turn your AW Custom into Solo’s blaster from SOLO:ASWS

    #153
    Magazine Release plate ENGRAVER STENCIL

    #88
    HEAT SINK GRILLE build from "3 Avron model kit cylinders"

    #57
    BESPIN Luke DL-44 Heavy Blaster build

    #68
    DENIX GRIPS fully converted (film accurate)

    #130
    SW:ANH “HERO” Blaster build

    #3
    THE FORCE AWAKENS blaster build (HFC m712)

    #64
    DENIX MAUSER fully transformed build (screen accurate)

    #46
    HOTH Scope Mount build

    #74
    HOLSTER RIG "The Costume Base" Modification

    #78
    m19 BESPIN SCOPE build

    #82
    SW:ANH “DEC” HERO blaster build
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2018
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  2. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I've been designing and building blaster since early 2013. Just like everyone else here I'm sure, holding an authentic 1:1 sized blaster in your hand is something of a dream come true. My first builds were with an old Hasbro as well as the doopydoos hero kit (which I modified onto a denix).. df2deb9b952fc1fa2eb82ac9b15330ef.jpg e52e6954b91f71ac9d84375fe98355f1.jpg b41331eb3604e54307772c62041a77cd.jpg

    ..the addiction grew quickly from there. This forum RPF was always a place of mystery with some extremely talented artist whom I would draw from and be inspired by daily.

    I've since designed in great detail ALL the original trilogy DL-44's as well as Solo’s TFA model.. b9ae4f11191e5d064ea730e4c7acf2a8.jpg
    My latest two creations..

    All the parts to build your very own ROTJ “Bunker” blaster. It’s designed to scale using detailed pictures of the recent ROTJ blaster that sold for over 500k in auction. Here it is below built on the same MGC model Mauser that the original also used..

    B2234AC8-91BA-4D52-AA4A-5A65150568F7.jpeg
    11dfa1bfb4b04a047ae5efb38fd9601c.jpg
    As well as an upgradable simplified kit to turn your AWC into the blaster carried by our favorite scoundrel in SOLO:ASWS 1a14060698917a89689a648979757a41.jpg

    It's taken a LOT of work, some rework and then some tweaks here and there to get everything as close to film accurate as I can.


    38a5a696777088020c8c7d4893884b7c.jpg @dl44blaster....is my instagram page and a place I where I could share my builds without my family and friends thinking I was going "gun" crazy. It's also been a great avenue and outlet in sharing my overall love for Star Wars itself.

    Like everyone else the draw to build in any form of metal (aluminum, steel or what ever) is addictive but I can't afford to machine. Recently I've been sharing my parts with someone who can and does an amazing job (he has his own well deserved thread) but in today's world we are lucky enough to have some truly amazing & high quality options outside of machining.

    Namely Selective Laser Sintering or SLS! If you haven’t educated yourself on just what this is exactly google it right now. The future is here! You are truly now only limited by your own imagination.

    This is my very first detailed build thread with such options and I'm excited to share.


    "Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid"

    or whats probably more appropriate for this first build (starts on post #3)...

    "Chewie, We're home!"



    And always.. #BeYourOwnScoundrel




     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2019 at 9:03 AM
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  3. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is what I am "shooting" for... [​IMG]

    And this is what I'm starting with... [​IMG]

    First thing I need to do is tap all the holes. Well actually the first thing I did was cut the end of the Mauser off so I could get the flash hider & bull barrel to slide on. I misplaced my 2-56 and 4-40 taps somewhere but you can pretty much just use the screws itself for tapping. Even with metal as u can see here on the m712 itself. [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Now tapping and getting the scope wheel all set up (again just using the screws itself)..

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    It's very detailed but this allows the wheel to actually spin which is always fun..
    [​IMG]

    Adding the tap to the mount screws. Life is always easier if u have an actual tap but this shows again it's possible with just the screw itself..[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2017
  4. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Next I added the "lenses" to the scope using tape so it fits nice and snug (I'll remove obviously once I get to the painting stage and use epoxy instead of tape to hold in place)..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
  5. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now finishing off the rest of the tapping and getting the mount into its rightful place..[​IMG][​IMG]

    I find its best to get the back hole tapped first then attach the mount nice and secure to figure out where that front hole needs to go. For all percision holes that needs tapping, including the bull barrel in the previous post - I like to scratch in my circle, use a center punch to find the hole then start with a really small drill bit. Work up from there to the correct hole size (in this case work up to 10-32 tap hole)..

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
  6. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now to "tape" on the front grille and slide in the mag so I can see how it's all coming together..[​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
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  7. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Flipping it over I need to attach the "mystery disk/knob". Using the same steps as before (tapping the hole and using a center punch for the Mauser) I figure out how/where it should attach..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
  8. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    "This is where the fun begins.." [​IMG]

    Getting this side panel into place may not be "easy" but it is easier than it looks. I designed the front to be angled so it will fit perfectly onto the Mauser. [​IMG]

    First I need to take this screw out but it will need to go back once finished. I like to use double sided tape on my desk so parts like this stay where they need to be until I need them again. [​IMG]

    Flipping it over I can now take off this part and throw it away as it's no longer needed! [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2018
  9. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It's very important to take precaution here! I use a plastic bag and safety goggles. Plastic bag so I don't loose any parts that could come flying off. And the safety googles simply because I do value my eye sight.

    If you have taken apart one of these mausers then you will understand what's at risk. There is a spring that could very easily "fire" off. If u're lucky you will be able to find it on the other side of the room. If u're unlucky you will seriously hurt urself. No joke. So again I strongly suggest using a clear plastic bag and some eye goggles for this part.. [​IMG][​IMG]

    Now with the Mauser inside the bag, the center screw removed just pull the trigger and the whole back should slide right out.. [​IMG]

    The safety switch will fall off first. Make sure to put that in a safe place as it will have to go back. It's best to leave the top of the Mauser inside the bag (my spring stayed in place and never came loose but it's better to be safe than sorry).
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
  10. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    To fill in the holes l use "Loctite repair putty" and it works great. [​IMG]

    First I add some tape to the inside of the Mauser.. [​IMG][​IMG]

    Then apply the putty and let it dry..[​IMG]

    After it dried which doesn't take very long some light sanding will smooth it out. Also take off the inside tape (lightly sand in there as well).. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
  11. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Next I put back on my goggles..[​IMG]
    Reattach the Mauser back inside the bag (don't forget to include the safety as I did here). [​IMG]I know it's beating a dead horse but the first time I did this I didn't use a bag only goggles and the spring shot like a rocket across my garage.
    I found it.. eventually
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
  12. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now to keep the back of the Mauser from sliding out every time you pull the trigger you need to epoxy this screw back into place. Epoxy obviously because now it has nothing on the other side to screw into.. [​IMG]

    I just put a little epoxy on the inside of where the screw goes and then just slid it back into place..[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
  13. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    For adding the left side replacement detail I first applied again a little epoxy and then just attached it to the Mauser.. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Waited for it to dry then sanded down the outsides so they were smooth with the Mauser itself..[​IMG]

    Using "Loctite repair putty" I now filled in the gaps between side replacement and the Mauser.. [​IMG]

    Waited for it to dry and then lightly sanded everything smooth..[​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  14. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    At this point I reattached everything to the Mauser. Again making sure everything is where it needs to be before moving on to painting..[​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  15. Ash

    Ash Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Great build thus far. Will be anticipating the continuation of it. Gotta get myself a set of those 3D printed parts so I can build one of these myself. Was attempting to do it with found items and what not but it's proved to be too frustrating and have just decided to give in and go the 3D route.

    -Ash
     
  16. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks Ash! Happy to hear you like what you see so far. It really is an enjoyable build. I am hoping to get a lot more accomplished tomorrow. I usually paint with a flat black but would like to duplicate this color if possible. [​IMG]

    Not sure what color it is exactly but.. metallic grey / charcoal gray?
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  17. Jack

    Jack Well-Known Member

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    Nice and interesting build !

    Your blaster looks really great, but I think you should sand a bit the top of the side greeblie to give it some tapper (the one where the mystery disc is on the ANH version).
     
  18. REVANSSkywalker

    REVANSSkywalker Active Member

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    What brand of mauser is this. I know it's the 712 model and your parts you used are from shapeways. I may have to build another once I'm finished with my esb. Is the gun a 1 to 1 scale? Awesome build to! Nice work!
     
  19. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks pal!

    The problem when designing these parts is there seems to be "many" subtle varietys of the blaster build itself. From the WIRED blaster to the DISNEY PARKS blaster to the actual FILM USED blaster. The picture here from the DISNEY PARKS seems to have the tapper you are mentioning..[​IMG][​IMG]

    But the FILM USED blaster doesn't...[​IMG][​IMG]

    Here is a better pic of the FILM USED blaster and you can see it has no tapper more clearly as well... [​IMG][​IMG]

    I've thought about adding one with the tapper if for no other reason than to ease my indecisiveness. But it's the film used blaster (or as close as I can get) at the end of the day I'm after..
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
  20. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks ever so much for the kind words!

    Ya this blaster is being built on the exact same 1:1 model airsoft that was used while filming THE FORCE AWAKENS. It's the "HFC m712" airsoft. These are also my designs and I’ve made them all available on my shapeways page if interested.

    I've been spending the better part of a year designing and then redesigning these parts to get them to where I have them today.

    Perfection is always subjective and I've never seen or held the actual FILM USED prop in person but these parts (IMHO) are designed pretty darn close
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2018
  21. DrkSideTndncies

    DrkSideTndncies Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Safety goggles...check...crazy hair...check...shirtless...of course check and always!!!
     
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  22. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Just taking the key ring off.. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  23. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    On the mystery disk the screw is the same I use to attach the scope mount. It's a little long and will prevent the short mag from fitting in properly. As u can see I cut the mag where the screw goes through so it does fit just fine..
    [​IMG]

    But I also have an actual short mag and this airsoft still works so in order to get the mag to fit while still having the mystery disk screw on (epoxy also works but I'd prefer it to be screwed).. instead of buying a smaller screw I just cut the screw I had. Now the mag slides in, mystery disk is securely fastened and everything works as it should. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  24. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have now unattached everything and am getting all the parts ready for painting. Set up some tape on the desk to hold all the screws and springs.. [​IMG]

    Taped up all the parts that don't need paint. Regardless of the material (metal, synthetic etc) this is a good idea as parts are built to be slip fits and any added paint will prevent things attaching as they should.

    The parts themselves do not need any real prepping or prior sanding. But I will be using primer..

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  25. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Used 2 coats on primer ("krylon colormaster" is what I'm using here) on all the parts and now waiting for it to dry. [​IMG]

    Also added primer to the left side replacement detail as well[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
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  26. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    lol yes well it does get hot in the garage

    Speaking of safety.. paint outdoors and protect urself from the fumes

    [​IMG]

    Cue "Vader's breathing apparatus"



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  27. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    After the primer dries I lightly sanded the scope with a 320 sand paper. The scope material is not polished like all the other parts.

    Because of the size of the scope it's only available in an unpolished material so it requires the most attention. But as you can see it still only requires minor sanding while the rest of the parts don't require much at all.

    Here is one side sanded while the other isn't so u can get an idea of how much sanding is required.. [​IMG][​IMG]

    Having a smooth scope is definitely important. Here is the tip of the scope unsanded with the sanded scope..[​IMG]

    I also "very lightly" sanded the Mauser side attachment as well as it makes everything blend in.. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
  28. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now I reapplied the final coat of primer on the sanded parts and Mauser. Not sure if this extra step is even necessary but I've always done it and really like how it turns out.. [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
  29. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now I start applying the layering of paint. First I add two coats of "medium charcoal metallic - dupli•color" spray paint. [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  30. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Waiting for that 2nd layer of metallic paint to dry I can work on the rings that will hold the scope lenses in place. They just need to be black as they will sit inside the scope. So a black sharpie will do the trick..[​IMG][​IMG]

    Also need to prep the final parts for painting..[​IMG]
     
  31. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now adding paint..[​IMG]

    Started with "universal black metallic" as the base.. [​IMG][​IMG]

    Then sprinkled the rest of the paints on as I saw fit. This is an all new experiment with regards to painting so once it's dry I'll assemble it and see what we have..
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
  32. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Edit: I now use actual glass domed lenses.. [​IMG] But in a pinch this is how I use to do it..

    Polystyrene plastic works great for the lenses. Can be a bit tricky to cut but with a little effort and care it does the job quite well..[​IMG]

    It's also has a nice thickness to it but again not to thick that it can't be cut with some scissors..[​IMG][​IMG]

    Cut off a square big enough for both inserts and make sure to keep the plastic covering on..[​IMG]

    Us the inside circle of each to get ur size and trace with a sharpe over the removable plastic..[​IMG]

    Then start cutting but you do have to be careful not to splinter the plastic. Start a little bigger than the insert and work backwords until it fits..[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Third times a charm.. [​IMG]

    I also like to add a reticle. I found these just by googling "Star Wars reticles" and it's the first ones that come up. If anyone knows who gets the credit I'm more than happy to give it.

    Also if anyone knows of any HQ reticles that would also be great. These do the job pretty good as they are though. Just had them printed up at a local Office Depot on thin plastic.. [​IMG]

    Next I took the plastic covering off and attached everything as pictured..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now just repeat the process for the front lens and u should be good to go..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    End of my lense build edit:


    It's late so I had to mess with the exposure a bit but I don't think it takes to much away. I still have to add the physical weathering..


    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2018
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  33. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    And now fully assembled. Again still some weathering to be done but it's coming along..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  34. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here are some pics in natural light straight from the camera (still no additional weathering).. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]..
     
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  35. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now to add some light weathering I use an X-Acto knife and go very genially until I reveal the metallic silver underneath..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  36. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is my fist run through with a little weathering..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
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  37. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    And a few more pics indoors..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2017
  38. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Last edited: Aug 10, 2017
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  39. H0llyw00d

    H0llyw00d Sr Member

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    Beautiful build, man. As much as I'm butthurt at the artistic license they took with our beloved DL-44 with TFA, I think you hit it spot on. And your photographic skills are to be commended. Now I gotta save up for a HFC 712, dadgummit... :)

    How's the playability? Could it handle living in a holster or would the cone snap off?
     
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  40. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks H0llyw00d! Much appreciated all around.

    And I totally feel you on the modifications they made to this DL-44 but to be fair it kind of falls in line with all the previous films. Each film has their own unique take on this blaster. This particular build is still "growing" me but I'm enjoying it more and more each day. Besides it's the one (and pretty much only) Mauser we can still find pretty easily that's authentic to the film it represents which is nice.

    As far as durability goes you could easily drop this and ur fine. I wouldn't necessarily suggest dropping it but the material very strong and durable. I also designed it to be a little thicker in specific places for a little extra support. Not sure how necessary that was but it can't hurt either.

    Thanks for taking the time to run through my build thread
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
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  41. mmhnc

    mmhnc Well-Known Member

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    Wow! I have the BB Gun version of he M172 sitting next to my bench right now, I hope it comes out this nice!
     
  42. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks mmhnc for taking the time and the kind words.

    All the best with ur upcoming build as well. Post some pics when finished
     
  43. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I've built this blaster twice now and this one in this video was my first attempt. It's not the blaster that's in this build thread but it's pretty much the same (I've modified some minor details to this new build). Otherwise it's identical.

    I overlaid it with the picture of the film blaster I was trying to duplicate.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wInxmCB7qMI&sns=em
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
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  44. kpax

    kpax Sr Member

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    really nice job on your build especially using printed parts. Lots of finishing there.

    Great job! Enjoy!
     
  45. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks kpax! Much appreciated
     
  46. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here is a quick build of Han's HOTH mount bracket. I recently updated the design (subtle modification) so I needed to rebuild it for my blaster. Thought I would share this process as well.

    This is what I'm "shooting" for..
    [​IMG]

    This is what I'm starting with..
    [​IMG]

    Also have a synthetic "mystery disk" on hand that I'll build as well as this metal one..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2017
  47. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    First step is tapping the holes..

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  48. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Next I like to attached everything to make sure it all lines up. In this case I'm only adding this mount to a build I've already completed so it's pretty straight forward. Just need to attach and screw everything together..[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  49. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I need to add a circle sticker to the "mystery disk" for painting. These I got from Office Depot and the work great..[​IMG][​IMG]
     
  50. chubsANDdoggers

    chubsANDdoggers Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Now I add the primer to the synthetic parts and some metallic silver paint to the metal "mystery disk"..[​IMG][​IMG]
     

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