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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Welcome to my dl-44 blaster journal. The goal has always been to design and then build ALL the dl-44 blaster’s to as close to screen accuracy as I could..
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You can also find me on Instagram and Shapeways..
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If you’re just joining in on the fun what follows is different ideas, techniques, designs and builds I’ve been apart of over years. These are always a “work in progress” as I’m always improving myself but below there is definitely some good stuff to be found and shared for sure..

Below is a direct link to all builds/mods as well as their post entry number..

www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=278441&page=3&p=4585182#post4585182 ANH, TFA & SOLO:ASWS - what makes them different??

#212
Turn your AW Custom into Solo’s blaster from SOLO:ASWS

#153
Magazine Release plate ENGRAVER STENCIL

#88
HEAT SINK GRILLE build from "3 Avron model kit cylinders"

#57
BESPIN Luke DL-44 Heavy Blaster build

#68
DENIX GRIPS fully converted (film accurate)

#130
SW:ANH “HERO” Blaster build

#3
THE FORCE AWAKENS blaster build (HFC m712)

#64
DENIX MAUSER fully transformed build (screen accurate)

#46
HOTH Scope Mount build

#74
HOLSTER RIG "The Costume Base" Modification

#78
m19 BESPIN SCOPE build

#82
SW:ANH “DEC” HERO blaster build
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've been designing and building blaster since early 2013. Just like everyone else here I'm sure, holding an authentic 1:1 sized blaster in your hand is something of a dream come true. My first builds were with an old Hasbro as well as the doopydoos hero kit (which I modified onto a denix)..
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..the addiction grew quickly from there. This forum RPF was always a place of mystery with some extremely talented artist whom I would draw from and be inspired by daily.

I've since designed in great detail ALL the original trilogy DL-44's as well as Solo’s TFA model..
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My latest two creations..

All the parts to build your very own ROTJ “Bunker” blaster. It’s designed to scale using detailed pictures of the recent ROTJ blaster that sold for over 500k in auction. Here it is below built on the same MGC model Mauser that the original also used..

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As well as an upgradable simplified kit to turn your AWC into the blaster carried by our favorite scoundrel in SOLO:ASWS
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It's taken a LOT of work, some rework and then some tweaks here and there to get everything as close to film accurate as I can.


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@dl44blaster....is my instagram page and a place I where I could share my builds without my family and friends thinking I was going "gun" crazy. It's also been a great avenue and outlet in sharing my overall love for Star Wars itself.

Like everyone else the draw to build in any form of metal (aluminum, steel or what ever) is addictive but I can't afford to machine. Recently I've been sharing my parts with someone who can and does an amazing job (he has his own well deserved thread) but in today's world we are lucky enough to have some truly amazing & high quality options outside of machining.

Namely Selective Laser Sintering or SLS! If you haven’t educated yourself on just what this is exactly google it right now. The future is here! You are truly now only limited by your own imagination.

This is my very first detailed build thread with such options and I'm excited to share.


"Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid"

or whats probably more appropriate for this first build (starts on post #3)...

"Chewie, We're home!"



And always.. #BeYourOwnScoundrel




 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is what I am "shooting" for...


And this is what I'm starting with...


First thing I need to do is tap all the holes. Well actually the first thing I did was cut the end of the Mauser off so I could get the flash hider & bull barrel to slide on. I misplaced my 2-56 and 4-40 taps somewhere but you can pretty much just use the screws itself for tapping. Even with metal as u can see here on the m712 itself.



Now tapping and getting the scope wheel all set up (again just using the screws itself)..



It's very detailed but this allows the wheel to actually spin which is always fun..


Adding the tap to the mount screws. Life is always easier if u have an actual tap but this shows again it's possible with just the screw itself..
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Next I added the "lenses" to the scope using tape so it fits nice and snug (I'll remove obviously once I get to the painting stage and use epoxy instead of tape to hold in place)..
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Now finishing off the rest of the tapping and getting the mount into its rightful place..


I find its best to get the back hole tapped first then attach the mount nice and secure to figure out where that front hole needs to go. For all percision holes that needs tapping, including the bull barrel in the previous post - I like to scratch in my circle, use a center punch to find the hole then start with a really small drill bit. Work up from there to the correct hole size (in this case work up to 10-32 tap hole)..

 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Flipping it over I need to attach the "mystery disk/knob". Using the same steps as before (tapping the hole and using a center punch for the Mauser) I figure out how/where it should attach..
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
"This is where the fun begins.."


Getting this side panel into place may not be "easy" but it is easier than it looks. I designed the front to be angled so it will fit perfectly onto the Mauser.


First I need to take this screw out but it will need to go back once finished. I like to use double sided tape on my desk so parts like this stay where they need to be until I need them again.


Flipping it over I can now take off this part and throw it away as it's no longer needed!
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It's very important to take precaution here! I use a plastic bag and safety goggles. Plastic bag so I don't loose any parts that could come flying off. And the safety googles simply because I do value my eye sight.

If you have taken apart one of these mausers then you will understand what's at risk. There is a spring that could very easily "fire" off. If u're lucky you will be able to find it on the other side of the room. If u're unlucky you will seriously hurt urself. No joke. So again I strongly suggest using a clear plastic bag and some eye goggles for this part..


Now with the Mauser inside the bag, the center screw removed just pull the trigger and the whole back should slide right out..


The safety switch will fall off first. Make sure to put that in a safe place as it will have to go back. It's best to leave the top of the Mauser inside the bag (my spring stayed in place and never came loose but it's better to be safe than sorry).
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
To fill in the holes l use "Loctite repair putty" and it works great.


First I add some tape to the inside of the Mauser..


Then apply the putty and let it dry..


After it dried which doesn't take very long some light sanding will smooth it out. Also take off the inside tape (lightly sand in there as well)..
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Next I put back on my goggles..

Reattach the Mauser back inside the bag (don't forget to include the safety as I did here).
I know it's beating a dead horse but the first time I did this I didn't use a bag only goggles and the spring shot like a rocket across my garage.
I found it.. eventually
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Now to keep the back of the Mauser from sliding out every time you pull the trigger you need to epoxy this screw back into place. Epoxy obviously because now it has nothing on the other side to screw into..


I just put a little epoxy on the inside of where the screw goes and then just slid it back into place..
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
For adding the left side replacement detail I first applied again a little epoxy and then just attached it to the Mauser..


Waited for it to dry then sanded down the outsides so they were smooth with the Mauser itself..


Using "Loctite repair putty" I now filled in the gaps between side replacement and the Mauser..


Waited for it to dry and then lightly sanded everything smooth..
 
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Ash

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Great build thus far. Will be anticipating the continuation of it. Gotta get myself a set of those 3D printed parts so I can build one of these myself. Was attempting to do it with found items and what not but it's proved to be too frustrating and have just decided to give in and go the 3D route.

-Ash
 

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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Great build thus far. Will be anticipating the continuation of it. Gotta get myself a set of those 3D printed parts so I can build one of these myself. Was attempting to do it with found items and what not but it's proved to be too frustrating and have just decided to give in and go the 3D route.

-Ash
Thanks Ash! Happy to hear you like what you see so far. It really is an enjoyable build. I am hoping to get a lot more accomplished tomorrow. I usually paint with a flat black but would like to duplicate this color if possible.


Not sure what color it is exactly but.. metallic grey / charcoal gray?
 
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Jack

Well-Known Member
Nice and interesting build !

Your blaster looks really great, but I think you should sand a bit the top of the side greeblie to give it some tapper (the one where the mystery disc is on the ANH version).
 

REVANSSkywalker

Active Member
What brand of mauser is this. I know it's the 712 model and your parts you used are from shapeways. I may have to build another once I'm finished with my esb. Is the gun a 1 to 1 scale? Awesome build to! Nice work!
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Nice and interesting build !

Your blaster looks really great, but I think you should sand a bit the top of the side greeblie to give it some tapper (the one where the mystery disc is on the ANH version).
Thanks pal!

The problem when designing these parts is there seems to be "many" subtle varietys of the blaster build itself. From the WIRED blaster to the DISNEY PARKS blaster to the actual FILM USED blaster. The picture here from the DISNEY PARKS seems to have the tapper you are mentioning..


But the FILM USED blaster doesn't...


Here is a better pic of the FILM USED blaster and you can see it has no tapper more clearly as well...


I've thought about adding one with the tapper if for no other reason than to ease my indecisiveness. But it's the film used blaster (or as close as I can get) at the end of the day I'm after..
 
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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
What brand of mauser is this. I know it's the 712 model and your parts you used are from shapeways. I may have to build another once I'm finished with my esb. Is the gun a 1 to 1 scale? Awesome build to! Nice work!
Thanks ever so much for the kind words!

Ya this blaster is being built on the exact same 1:1 model airsoft that was used while filming THE FORCE AWAKENS. It's the "HFC m712" airsoft. These are also my designs and I’ve made them all available on my shapeways page if interested.

I've been spending the better part of a year designing and then redesigning these parts to get them to where I have them today.

Perfection is always subjective and I've never seen or held the actual FILM USED prop in person but these parts (IMHO) are designed pretty darn close
 
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