Disney Store Kylo Ren lightsaber mods

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Howlrunner, Sep 10, 2015.

  1. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I put some of these pics up in another thread, but as that thread is not actually about the Disney Store Kylo Ren saber then I thought I'd start a new thread.

    Some pics of the DS KY saber:

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Looks pretty good to me - only real obvious structural inaccuracy is that the saber blade emitter opening is too wide.

    Don't like the plastic blades and just want this as a display hilt, so removed the blades - main blade wasn't too bad, but side blades are impossible to remove after assembly, so had to carefully snap them off.

    Inside the hilt - this is after I unplugged some bits I didn't want, cut the blade light strip down to only one LED, rearranged one or two thins, dremelled down some of plastic inside the hilt where the main blade goes in order to insert a section of pipe (seen at the top of the photo):

    [​IMG]
    Two of the battery wires snapped, so the red and blue line show where they are meant to attach to. I re-soldered them after this photo was taken.

    And blade-less hilt re-assembled:

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    I removed the 3-section moulded red "wire". I will fill the gap and use a real wire.

    And to show that the lights (and sound) still work:

    [​IMG]

    Lots of sanding and hole filling up next....
     
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  2. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I was curious how this looked inside. How do you plan on making the emitter thinner? I would think it could be sawed off and replaced with A smaller PVC one and then fill in the gaps with some bondo or milliput. So were the side blades glued into the emitters?

    Also, is there a trick to getting the vibrating action to work? Mine doesnt seem to do it.
     
  3. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    Why do you have only one LED in the grip?Mine has a lot of LEDs in the blade.It comes out like the FX-sabers and goes down the same way.:confused
     
  4. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    He cut the rest off so he could remove the blade, and left one to retain at least some light coming from the emitter.
     
  5. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    Ah ok...now I understand.;)
     
  6. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Any idea how you plan to fill the gaps around the battery compartment but still get to the batteries?
     
  7. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    very cool pictures, are these able to be purchased online? there isnt a single disney store around me anymore :(
     
  8. Serenity

    Serenity Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You know, I was planning on stripping this of the blades and such... but now that I have it, I'm finding it's pretty fun to wave around and hit stuff with it. Good price on it as well. Might have to instead get a second one for modding.

    Here you go:

    http://www.disneystore.com/kylo-ren-lightsaber-star-wars-the-force-awakens/mp/1383666/1000303/
     
  9. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  10. Howlrunner

    Howlrunner Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm not going to make the emitter thinner. Yeah, it could be done, but it would still not be completely accurate and the hilt has a lot of other inaccuracies, but for a really cheap display prop I'm just going to leave it. I'm also just going to seal the batteries in - once they die I'm happy to just have it sit on the shelf - the lights and sound were just an added bonus as far as I'm concerned.

    No idea on the vibrating - didn't know it could do that until after I had removed some pieces.

    The red side blades have two square holes in each - they snap over inner sections that extend from the hilt. The side emitters then slot over the red blades and also snap into the square holes in the blade.
     
  11. MCM

    MCM Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I don't know if sealing the batteries in is a good idea. What if they start leaking battery acid later on?
     
  12. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Going full OCD on mine. Installed a louder speaker and moved it to the top, cut out the fat emitter area and plan to install a smaller one, and cut removed the exposed innards piece to replace it with a more recessed accurate one based on the pommel innards piece.
    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
     
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  13. isutton007

    isutton007 New Member

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    Totally new to all of this. Has anyone tried adding a better looking blade to the Disney saber? I'm trying to make a longer blade and get mine to look a little bit more like the force FX saber, but I don't quite know how to go about that.
     
  14. kalkamel

    kalkamel Sr Member

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    I'm curious about this as well. It'd be great if a better LED could be installed in the emitter to light up a longer (removable) blade.
     
  15. dejordzta

    dejordzta Active Member

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    I don't know how the Disney blades are wired up, but from what I've seen, the leds come on in groups. If this is the case, you may be able to wire some extra leds in in series to each group so you can get a better coverage, but still maintain the FFX lightup sequence; however, it all depends on how the sound/lightboard ignites the blade. Obviously some diffusion would help, either some wrap from TCSS or that polystyrene packing wrap(? I think that's similar to the stuff FFX use) could do the trick. Otherwise yeah, swap it out with a hilt mounted led (which has already been done for the actual FFX: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgWFPYMoPqg).
     
  16. Miranda Tempest

    Miranda Tempest Active Member

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    I picked up one of the Disney store light sabers. I want to mod this as well and was wondering if anyone was attempting it.
    Sorry, no offense but I can't just keep it as a display (pretty expensive for just a display) seems a bit of a waste of money in my opinion.
    I was glad to see Dr Talyn is making an attempt at this. I'm going full OCD as well!

    Since you mentioned it Dr Talyn...What speaker upgrade did you use? You also said that you moved the speaker to the front?

    Saber Forge is 2 miles from my house, I'm going to see if I can work their 12w led and V4 blade into it. I'm also thinking of ways to make the pommel feel heavier and thicker than it is. I will post any progress very soon!
     
  17. YdurSolrac

    YdurSolrac New Member

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    Im curious about using this soundboard in a custom build but I am a complete newbie to how to wire this. Does anyone have any tips on how to rewire a brighter LED into this set up? I imagine that the LED would have to have the same voltage as the stock ones so that it doesnt burn out the board right? Any advice would be appreciated. I really like the sound font on this and I was thinking I could have the two crossguard LEDs run as indicator lights on my custom saber design.
     
  18. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  19. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    The Disney one is very close to the shape of the originals we´ve seen.But the blade is a lot shorter and "cheaper" as the Force Fx saber.(I have both)
    I have an FX blade from my old Vader Ep.V MR saber in the basement.Would be nice if that would work with this saber.But it would only look cool when the sideblades also would have the same design...not the red plastic.
     
  20. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Well I mean for making a static hilt, the details and proportions are the closest of any product released. Close to getting mine finished.
     
  21. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    Thats right.The shape is nice.
     
  22. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Dremeled out the inside lip on the cutout to make it the right thickness seen in the new photos. And I'm pretty convinced the pommel core is also used here, slightly modified, so I'm going to mold it to make a copy for the cutout core.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
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  23. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Decided the inner pommel core is actually too small for the cutaway. Using the details that came with it for that spot, I cut it into 3 pieces and clued them to a piece that was inside it to make it a more angular octagon shape as it should be instead of curved. Now I just need to sculpt the details a little more extended since you can see it further through the cutaway.
    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  24. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Finished with the exposed core, just need to add the wires and then permanently seal up the halves and start filling the holes and gaps.
    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
  25. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Love this, can't wait to start mine.
     
  26. Barbecuecitron

    Barbecuecitron New Member

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    It looks amazing ! Great job man ! :)
     
  27. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    The good about this is,that the saber itself has the same size as the FX one.And a more accurate shape.But the blade is too short.
    Its a shame that its only made from plastic...but with a great paintjob I bet this is a "killer".;)
     
  28. Sabs

    Sabs Member

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    It would be neat to hit the edged of the hole with a lighter to make melt a bit and look like a real sabre damaged it. I know it's not the way the REAL one is, but it is more "real".
     
  29. Untitledmark1

    Untitledmark1 New Member

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    I'd really love to not dump another 200 + into the saber after modding the BS helmet. Anybody have any hints on getting longer blade into this pup.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I enhanced that melt with a woodburner that I used on the seem of the bs helmet
     
  30. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Started mine today. Getting that top ring off the hilt was a pain in the but. I had to put a cut in mine to get it loose. One more thing to fill, haha.
     
  31. NeonGhoul

    NeonGhoul New Member

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    VERY happy to see a thread for this, since I was thinking of doing this exact thing.
    (I mean, 30 bucks for a pretty * good base? I'm sold)
    I'm not sure how possible it is since I don't have my hands on one yet but, I was thinking of going and modding the emitter so that it could fit a typical 1in OD blade (Im assuming just finding a way to seat a 1in ID coupler where the current emmitter is?) and better vent blades. It's not like I need it to be that strong since Im never gonna be dueling with it, but enough that a better main LED setup would be good for, like for cosplay purposes
     
  32. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    No idea, I'm just making mine an accurate static hilt.
     
  33. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    Can´t wait to see your finished hilts,guys.:)

    Some more pics of the builds would be nice.
     
  34. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Are you leaving the electronics in, or did you gut them? Just curious.

    I ended up preserving mine. It made it a pain to add weights to the inside because of how they are laid out.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2016
  35. Jamestan

    Jamestan Active Member

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    Hows the weight of this? I really want just a static hilt, but I'm kinda into the weight/feel of the force fx. I wonder if you can weight it enough so it feels substantial instead of light and cheap feeling.
     
  36. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It's very light. If you want that really heavy feel, you probably need to empty it out. I got a couple pieces of metal in mind that help out a lot, but it's still not "solid steel heavy"
     
  37. Jamestan

    Jamestan Active Member

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    I dont want it to feel like its a 10lb weight. Just enough where a good paint job might make you think twice if it was resin/plastic or painted metal. Like, get it so it doesn't feel like a hollow piece of molded plastic. I kinda want to mod this and get it as close as I can to the hero prop.
     
  38. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If you get creative with the use of space, you can definitely achieve that. I used a few steel bolts, and two old sockets. Don't know what the total weight is now, but it feels more real.
     
  39. Jamestan

    Jamestan Active Member

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    Did you keep the lights and sound?
     
  40. Kylash

    Kylash Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Until recently I was keeping them, I even gave it a louder speaker, but after getting to adding a new exposed core, i found that they were getting in the way, so i removed them. I sill have them in tact though, so I could put them back later.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2016
  41. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    yeah, I did. It took some effort, but I found a way.
     
  42. Jamestan

    Jamestan Active Member

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    So theres enough space even after sinking the exposed bits? Man I can't wait to start on this.
     
  43. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It's tricky, but yes. I used small steel parts, then ended up hiding an old steel socket inside the base of the blade, which is connected to the vibration sensor. Check out this shot:

    [​IMG]


    Here's a teaser shot of my hilt. Almost done. Excited to shoot some better pics of it over the next couple days. Overall, I'm super happy with it. More pics and details soon.

    [​IMG]
     
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  44. Jamestan

    Jamestan Active Member

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    That's looking sweet. From the looks of it I think I'm just gonna gut it, and make a static hilt. How does the two shells close, screws I'm guessing? I might just plastic weld the whole thing so there's no screws visible.
     
  45. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes, the two halves screw together. The one tricky area is the cap ring near the emitter. It holds the halves together, and it's glued in place. It takes some work to get it off without destroying it.
     
  46. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    You made a great job,man.The saber looks great.But you need the tranparent red wire!;)
     
  47. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Still some work to do. Not sure I know what your are referring to.
     
  48. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    The originalsaber has a clear over the sword.

    [​IMG]
     
  49. dmpsk8

    dmpsk8 Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Good eye! I'm not replacing my wire, but I'm sure someone will have some fun with that. Looks very cool. I haven't seen this shot before. Is it the official hero hilt? I know there were apparently a few versions.
     
  50. Kroenen77

    Kroenen77 Sr Member

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    Look in the Thread "Kylo Ren Saber hollow hilt for electronics" here on board.
    You will find lots of awesome HD pics of the different sabers there.
     

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