Destiny - "The Chaperone" Build

jamesmcintoshjr

Active Member
So I can't seem to get enough of cool destiny guns, and after finishing my monte carlo I wanted to apply some of the techniques I've learned over the past year to do something super clean and quick while I reprint my invective (the original of which got a bit ruined via a bit too much XTC 3D). Enter "The Chaperone", aka year 2 Thorn (if only in quest difficulty to get it)

the chap is a very simply shape with very cool embellishments along the barrel and the grip.

chaperone.jpg

First step was to grab the game model so what I was making was proportionally accurate. The game models by themselves are unprintable because of how low detail they are, but they do save some time when modelling a printable version. this model was pretty easy because of how simple the overall shape of the chaperone is.

chap3D_01.jpg

After getting a nice hi-res mesh, I chopped it up into a printable kit, complete with dowels to make assembly a bit easier.

chap3D_02.jpg

And the print, laid out but not assembled, I took this after hitting the main body with a bit of scratch primer. No more XTC 3D on these pieces, it just kills the details and corners too much.

IMG_9528.JPG

The cavity underneath where the slugs normally would load will house the electronics for the red lights. After casting I'm going to drill a few holes on either side for red LEDs, and then I'm going to design and print a cartridge to hold the lights, battery and switch, which will be held in the gun with magnets and then capped underneath with the chamber cover so everything will be hidden away nicely. Speaking of XTC 3D however, I'm going to use it with a bit of tint to cast the lenses for the red lights.It will get some use :)

Next step was to do the barrel detailing.
WP_20151013_20_11_52_Pro.jpg

One side, not all the way smooth yet but getting ready for details. For detail work I'm using the cut vinyl technique, but based on how it turned out on my monte carlo, which was a bit too subtle, I double layered the vinyl (matte automotive wrap vinyl) so the details would pop a bit more. This has the added effect of being much easier to cut fine detail on my Silhouette Cameo because the vinyl is now twice as thick.

WP_20151013_20_11_44_Pro.jpg

this was a pain to weed... but not as bad as the grip.... After applying the vinyl I hit it with more filler primer to lock it down and smooth it out a bit, integrating it into the barrel a bit better, then once I was happy with that I did the other side and the top bit.

WP_20151024_18_34_40_Pro.jpgWP_20151024_18_34_32_Pro.jpg

Next, the grip.

WP_20151024_18_34_09_Pro.jpg

The same technique was employed as the barrel. Print was sanded, scratch primered, sanded, primed, sanded, primed, and then it was ready for vinyl. The details on the grip are quite a bit smaller than the barrel, which made the double layered vinyl so thin at points the transfer tape was only taking the top layer of vinyl, leaving the bottom layere on the paper. I won't mention the weeding process :)

After some doing, I managed to get it all applied.

WP_20151026_20_18_50_Pro.jpg

And after it was hit with primer to lock it down, things were looking good!

WP_20151027_08_57_16_Pro.jpg

the back of the grip got a bit more sanding as it looked a bit rough, then the other side of vinyl was applied and primered as well..the only thing left to do for the master is sort out the sights, and I'm debating if I should emboss the tex mechanica bull head on the back or if I should just mask and paint it on.

WP_20151027_10_50_48_Pro.jpgWP_20151027_10_51_00_Pro.jpg

These just need to run through the primer/sanding machine (me) and then I can create itty bitty molds for them. In the 3D print I created little indentations for where these are supposed to go, so placement won't be guesswork.

As of this morning, this is where I'm at-

WP_20151027_08_59_29_Pro.jpg

Starting molds this week. I was debating whether or not to just assemble the whole thing and do one big mold, but that makes me nervous come casting time, and if I mess up the mold that's a lot of wasted silicone. I think I'm going to do the barrel as one mold, and the body, grip, trigger as another, with teeny molds for the sights. This is all going to be cold cast with aluminium powder so I can save time and effort on painting, since I'm really not a great painter.
 
thank you! hah if I was free handing that vinyl I'd be some kind of sadist, especially trying to get it symmetrical.

No, I laid out all the graphics in Adobe Illustrator and cut it on my Silhouette Cameo. The grip I hand trimmed to fit because it was curved, but the barrel I basically took measurements from my 3D model so it was an exact fit, just needed to apply it properly.

Tip - Silhouette sells a plugin for Illustrator that lets you cut from AI, but all you need to do to avoid that is to export a .DXF and open it in silhouette studio, saving yourself the $40.
 
That is coming along great! I spent a few hours in Mayhem Clash, trying to get this gun. At this point, I'd rather buy a Silhouette and build my own, haha.

Looking forward to seeing your progress. What program did you model this in?
 
ha, yeah mayhem clash was the only way I could do it, with my warlock I was able to get enough chain kills with stormtrance to hit 100%. Just hang back, wait for your super then get out there. Was able to do it from nothing in 6 matches. My hunter, my best character, being super careful, the best I could do was about 20% before getting a bad game and scaling waay back.

This was modelled in 3DS MAX. I based it off the STL from destinystlgenerator, converted to obj via greentoken, then brought into max for reference to build the final model.
 
Stormtrance is a beast. I'm going to follow your lead w/ my Sunbreaker and see if a little patience and strategery (and Hammer of Sol) pays off.

Thanks for the software info. I 3D doodle things in Autodesk Sculpt+ on my iPad, and I've been looking at getting Zbrush, and getting more serious in my modeling.. Except, when I looked into Zbrush, it opened up a can of worms, so I'm trying to cast a wide net and see what modeling software would best suit my needs/wants.
 
zbrush is really tough for doing things like this, mainly because its designed to be analogous to sculpting with clay. So getting straight, geometric lines and clean flat surfaces, symmetrical angles, etc, can be quite difficult. Great for doing organic stuff, faces, that sort of thing, but hard surface modelling in zbrush is a skill unto itself.

Poly Modelling is a bit of a mix between cad and sculpting, and I've been using MAX for almost 20 years so I've had a really hard time picking up zbrush because of how different it is.
 
Zbrush actually introduced some new hard surface tools that are perfect for weapons and scifi stuff. What I always tell people who are thinking about getting zbrush is navigating and tool learning is the hardest part (takes a good 3 weeks to learn). Once you figure out the ui, it becomes a cakewalk :)
 
Good to know!

Yeah I was never able to stick through the UI learning phase of zbrush, mainly because so few of the things I was doing would have benefitted from it, but I admit I haven't looked at it in a few years.
 
Thanks so much for your input on Zbrush. I'd like something that is the best of both worlds (geometric/organic), and it sounds like Zbrush is making efforts in that direction.
 
been meaning to update this. I had molded and cast the barrel and grip/main body of the chap a ways back, but with the holidays took me a while to finish up casting the lenses, slug door and iron sights, got those completed over the weekend and here's how the build is looking now-

12400681_10153692207747247_1170833483682784636_n.jpg10409551_10153692205722247_6674204899433282030_n.jpg

This was the first casting and as such there's a few problem spots due to air bubbles, So I just used this as my finishing mule, gonna do a small run to cover materials so I can start something new. This thing ate up a ton of silicon and uses about 6 lbs of resin!
 
This thread is more than 8 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top