Destiny 2: Wise Warlock (AKA Ego Talon IV) cosplay build thread!

Patattack

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After getting DEEP into Destiny 2 over the past couple of months I've decided that this year's Halloween costume will be the "Wise Warlock" outfit, AKA the Ego Talon IV armor set, AKA the default Warlock that's featured in all the promo materials. Bungie even made an amazing full-size replica costume that was displayed at some pre-release events (although I can't find ANY information about who created it--only a handful of photos from journalists at the events).

rosa-lee-wisewarlock-ingame.jpg DvsoLjLnmHRDCs7LnUpyCi.jpg 35999611824_45c6df897f_o.jpg

I'm working with a friend to 3D print the helmet, starting with models that were conveniently obtained from http://www.destinystlgenerator.com/. Same friend has also 3D printed a gun for me--the Hard Light exotic auto rifle, models created by the very talented laellee (Indigenous Effects).

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I always forget to document my costume builds, but this year I'm going a lot elaborate than usual--I've never worked with 3D printed props before, and I'm learning how to airbrush as well--so I wanna make sure I take photos of everything! :p
 
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Patattack

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Re: Destiny 2: Wise Warlock (AKA Ego Talon IV) cosplay

First up, the rifle. Here's the pile of parts I received:

0822 Hard Light Assembly Diagram.png 41162182_588042211613497_5040332834129051648_n.jpg

Now, as mentioned, I've never worked with 3D prints before. My plan was to assemble the gun in large parts--per the diagram above, the creator of the 3D model recommended assembling the stock, barrels, and shrouds separately, as well as keeping the gun split down the middle for ease of adding electronics. I'll use plastic putty, filler primer, and possibly some XTC-3D to smooth out all of the lines on those parts. Then, for final assembly, I'll glue together all of the large sections, then do a FINAL round of plastic putty and filler primer to cover the seams between the halves prior to painting. Does anyone recommend a different approach??

I'm currently in the process of doing a light sand to knock down the print striations a bit, and then carefully gluing the slices together and blending them with plastic putty. Excuse my bedraggled face, but this shot of me with JUST the stock/grip illustrates just how big it's gonna be when it's fully assembled with the barrels and everything!

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Patattack

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Re: Destiny 2: Wise Warlock (AKA Ego Talon IV) cosplay

Next up, the actual outfit. In the interest of time, I'm focusing mostly on the outer layer of the costume: the jacket/shrug, abdomen/corset, and skirt. If I can get all that to a satisfying point by Halloween, then I'll pay closer attention to the arms/gauntlets/legs/boots--but they'll be mostly covered up, so in a pinch, I can get away with close-enough found pieces.

Wise_Warlock_Robes1.jpg

I had planned to build the jacket/shrug from scratch, but then I was at TJMaxx (where you never know what you're going to find!) and my girlfriend stumbled across the perfect base garment for me to alter: a form-fitting pleather jacket with a motorcycle-style front flap, except that the edges of the flap are unfinished (no zippers or fasteners to remove or work around) and there's plenty of extra material (on both the top and bottom flaps) for me to trim it to the shape I need. So my next step will be removing the sleeves and slowly, carefully removing material from the bottom of the jacket in order to bring it up to the right length and shape. My only concern is the stand-up cowl-style collar...not quite sure how to construct that.

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Patattack

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Rifle update: smoothed out the plastic putty covering the seams and extra-striated portions of the grip, and added a coat of filler primer. Not quite perfect yet, but getting pretty good I'd say! It definitely needs at least one more round of sanding and filler primer, but I'm honestly not sure I'll need the XTC-3D...I think it might be overkill at this point.

MVIMG_20180919_205212.jpg
 

laellee

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NICE!
As mentioned before, don't hesitate to hit me up if you run into any questions or issues with the rifle assembly or electronics. :thumbsup
 

Patattack

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
NICE!
As mentioned before, don't hesitate to hit me up if you run into any questions or issues with the rifle assembly or electronics. :thumbsup
Oh duh, I should have known you were a member here! :lol I don't think I ever wrote back, but your primer on LED wiring was very intuitive and helpful--thank you so much.

Actually, I wanted to run a lighting idea past you! I was trying to figure out a way to keep the magazine removable, AND have a light in it, AND keep the battery easily accessible for replacing when it goes dead. I didn't want to permanently seal a battery into the magazine, and I didn't want to leave the magazine "open" because then it would look less realistic when removed. Then yesterday I struck upon this idea:

MVIMG_20180920_090756.jpg

So basically, the LED would be permanently entombed inside the magazine, with each lead soldered to a separate magnet. Then, in the gun stock, I would carve a channel from the magazine area to the open section, and solder the wires from the battery to the corresponding magnets on the top side. My thinking is that the magnets themselves would complete the circuit when the magazine is inserted. I did a quick test to confirm that the rare earth magnets I've got at home are conductive--obviously I'd have to make sure that the top and bottom magnets make full contact with one another, but beyond that I think it's sound!

Can you think of any reason why this wouldn't work? Like I said before, I don't know much about electronics...not sure if the magnetism would, like, mess with the circuit somehow.
 

laellee

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Oh duh, I should have known you were a member here! :lol I don't think I ever wrote back, but your primer on LED wiring was very intuitive and helpful--thank you so much.

Actually, I wanted to run a lighting idea past you! I was trying to figure out a way to keep the magazine removable, AND have a light in it, AND keep the battery easily accessible for replacing when it goes dead. I didn't want to permanently seal a battery into the magazine, and I didn't want to leave the magazine "open" because then it would look less realistic when removed. Then yesterday I struck upon this idea:

View attachment 843823

So basically, the LED would be permanently entombed inside the magazine, with each lead soldered to a separate magnet. Then, in the gun stock, I would carve a channel from the magazine area to the open section, and solder the wires from the battery to the corresponding magnets on the top side. My thinking is that the magnets themselves would complete the circuit when the magazine is inserted. I did a quick test to confirm that the rare earth magnets I've got at home are conductive--obviously I'd have to make sure that the top and bottom magnets make full contact with one another, but beyond that I think it's sound!

Can you think of any reason why this wouldn't work? Like I said before, I don't know much about electronics...not sure if the magnetism would, like, mess with the circuit somehow.

Yep it will work.... I have done EXACTLY what you are talking about, the hardest part was getting a good contact between the lead to the magnets and the magnets themselves. I ended up seating the magnets on top of the lead wires and using epoxy, careful not to muck up the connection. You can solder the connection as well, but keep in mind that high heat can reduce the strength of a magnet's attraction (I have personally not had a problem when using rare earth magnets around high heat, but it apparently can happen).

I eventually gave up on this type of connection (didn't want a connection to fail down the road) and started using magnetic reed switches instead:

08642-02-L.jpg
With a rare-earth magnet, the switch has to be within less than a 1/4" away to activate it. You can set up the connection point like above so that you still have some of the magnets between the gun body and mag to hold them together as originally planned, but then you replace a bottom magnet with the reed switch. The reed switch then works to complete the circuit in the magazine itself, where your LEDs and batteries are stored inside. You just have to make sure that your neighboring magnets on the magazine side aren't so close to the reed switch to set them off themselves. Here is an old (and horrible) video on FB while I was prototyping a custom blaster; The reed is located inside the cartridge, right below the plastic, and there's a corresponding magnet in the chamber that aligns when the shell is dropped in. You can see the screws on the end of the cartridge so it can be opened and the battery replaced.
https://www.facebook.com/IndigenousEffects1/videos/1566391073682434/
 

Patattack

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Minor update! I've been doing a little work on a lot of different elements, so I haven't had much to photograph, but here's what I've accomplished in the last week:

The gun is still far from complete--I've got a lot of sanding and priming and re-sanding to do before I can start painting--but I've finally reassembled all of the parts that were sliced up for printing, so it feels a lot more complete. I did a quick test-fit and it's starting to feel more like a real gun and less like a pile of plastic!
MVIMG_20181001_233242.jpg

My first progress on the textile portion of the costume: I've completed the "corset" portion, for which I had no pattern and completely improvised from scratch. I'm pretty pleased with the way it came out! Just have to add the gold piping and the weird strappy X-shaped thing on top of it. Please excuse the dirty bathroom mirror. :p
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