Denix bluing

AJ Hamler

Active Member
Greetings!

In preparation for my DL-44 build, I've been scouring the RPF for information on bluing the Denix Mauser. The threads and info go back several years, and as you might expect the recommendations are varied depending on who's posting. It rather appears that Denix bluing is a YMMV experience. (As an aside, for my build I want to avoid paint and so prefer a chemical blackening.)

Birchwood Casey products seem to be the go-to formulas, but I've noted that various forum members have had good results with different BC products -- Aluminum Black, Perma Blue, Super Blue, etc. In looking at as many of the threads I could find, it appears that BC Aluminum Black is the preferred product for blackening the Denix. (After proper prep, of course, and following all package directions.) Is that still the current consensus of opinion?

Now, one thing I've not seen on the forum -- or, at least, have not been able to find with my admittedly limited searching skills -- is anyone's experience using "Novacan Black Patina for Zinc." If I understand correctly, the pot metal used in the Denix Mauser is primarily zinc-based, so I was wondering if anyone has tried it and what their experience with it might be.

Meanwhile, what about blackening pewter? Has anyone here used "JAX Pewter Black?" If not, what is the current thinking on pewter?

Thanks in advance.

A.J.
 
BC Aluminum Black works great. Perma Blue also works but it's slower and takes more applications. Not sure about the other brands you mentioned but anything for zinc should work too.
 
Yup. After two applications of Aluminum black I got a dark, dark grey/patchy finish. if I were to do it more I bet my gun would get close to black
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If you prep the surface well, and keep the denix warm for each application with a lot of buffing in between you can get a pretty great black finish with some bluish undertones. Can't stress surface prep enough. Have fun!
 
This, too, is a section of the DL 44 process that I'm not familiar with and would like to learn more about. How dark does it get after a just one coat?
 
I've used Novacan Black Patina for Zinc on my Denix Boo and it seemed to work really well. I'll echo the prep
 
In my experience discouragingly un-dark. A couple passes in it starts to fill out, though. This is I think eight passes w/ some weathering along the edges. Again, I warmed it before each rub down. Surface was smooth and clean beforehand. I rinsed with cold water and buffed with 0000 steel wool between each pass.

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This, too, is a section of the DL 44 process that I'm not familiar with and would like to learn more about. How dark does it get after a just one coat?
 
Good post. Does anyone know what the best way to blacken brass? Or should I use paint?

They make brass black as well. You can also tarnish brass with ammonia fumes (suspend them in a jar above a few inches of ammonia... remember to close the jar!). Once it's tarnished you can paint it black, and weather accordingly. It all depends on what kind of finish you're trying to simulate in the first place.
 
They make brass black as well. You can also tarnish brass with ammonia fumes (suspend them in a jar above a few inches of ammonia... remember to close the jar!). Once it's tarnished you can paint it black, and weather accordingly. It all depends on what kind of finish you're trying to simulate in the first place.

Awesome. Is there a particular reason why it would the tarnishing would need to be first? Do the ammonia fumes react with the blackened brass?
 
Awesome. Is there a particular reason why it would the tarnishing would need to be first? Do the ammonia fumes react with the blackened brass?

The tarnishing is just another way to simulate age. Brass black + buffing can get you a similar result. So say the part you're trying to finish was originally brass that was painted black, but now the paint has chipped and the brass oxidized, you can "age" the brass before painting with either of those methods, then follow up with some paint, then chip some paint off. Bingo bango - 100 year old thingymabob.
 
In my experience discouragingly un-dark. A couple passes in it starts to fill out, though. This is I think eight passes w/ some weathering along the edges. Again, I warmed it before each rub down. Surface was smooth and clean beforehand. I rinsed with cold water and buffed with 0000 steel wool between each pass.

Which agent did you use to get that wonderful result? Is that the Novacan or Aluminum Black?
 
They make brass black as well. You can also tarnish brass with ammonia fumes (suspend them in a jar above a few inches of ammonia... remember to close the jar!). Once it's tarnished you can paint it black, and weather accordingly. It all depends on what kind of finish you're trying to simulate in the first place.

Like it was said, they make brass black. However I have had luck with Aluminum Black on brass too. I used it on a brass lightsaber hilt I made and some BSG dog tags. Not sure how the two products stack up in comparison but my point is that if you don'y need a lot of BB and you happen to have some AB, you might want to give it a shot.
 
Like it was said, they make brass black. However I have had luck with Aluminum Black on brass too. I used it on a brass lightsaber hilt I made and some BSG dog tags. Not sure how the two products stack up in comparison but my point is that if you don'y need a lot of BB and you happen to have some AB, you might want to give it a shot.

Yeah I would bet they all have similar oxidizing agents in them. I've even heard you can put zinc in a ferric chloride bath and it will blacken. I haven't gotten up the courage to try it yet though.


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