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newmagrathea

Sr Member
Hi,

As many of us I would like to document my Hales Grenade restoration as well. Since I have to work a lot nowadays I don't have enough time to take care of my grenade so I keep postponing it. But I'm still reading about different methods, trying to figure out what to do. Among all of the many tips and videos I saw I would like to use what I saw at newmagrathea 's thread. I really enjoyed his videos and I love the results of his work so I will try to achieve the same results on my grenade as well.

Right now I'm in the tools and ingredients collecting phase. I have a small Dremel-like rotary tool at home but I'm not satisfied with it so I ordered the more industrial type flex shaft tool that Dustin recommended oh his blog. Now I need to wait for it to be delivered, which I think going to take around a month. Meanwhile I'm looking for metal brushes and wire wheels.

The other process I would like to make happen on the grenade is the electrolysis, so I gotta buy and prepare the tools for that as well.

This is where I'm starting from:

View attachment 1054860 This is the state how I got my grenade delivered.

View attachment 1054858 Thankfully I could take it apart without much hustle, I used some WD40 and thats all.

I tried to clean it a little, it didn't seem very rusty so I tried to de-rust it with vinegar first, but it didn't seem to work. So I used my rotary tool on it, but the tool itself is not strong enough for proper work so I stopped.

This is where I am right now:

View attachment 1054861

This is after I washed it clean with Acetone then well sprayed with WD40, hopefully it keeps it safe from rusting until my tools arrive. I already got my super blue and wax for later treatment.

I'm not a native English speaker so I'm sorry for my grammar mistakes. Also I'm not an expert in any of these processes so please tell me if I'm doing something really stupid :D Hopefully I can continue the work soon, then I'll be back with the updates.
Honestly I don't think you'll need to do electrolysis, there isn't much build up on it. The wire wheels will remove whatever is on the surface pretty aggressively. I highly recommend a full face shield. It's a very nice Hales, good score.
 

The Ninja

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Dustin did amazing work on my Hales commission, following looking forward to seeing your progress (y)
 

Ridire Firean

Sr Member
Hey onderon ! That's a very nice looking Hale's Grenade you have there!

I wouldn't think you need anything more than a little patience, and another go at it with a bit of vinegar and an old toothbrush. Those little tiny bumps on the surface of your cubes will come right off if you pick at them a little bit. Some will probably come off with your fingernail, some may need a plastic scraper, and maybe a few will need a dental pick, but a wire wheel seems a bit like overkill on a grenade that well preserved. You don't want to blur out the character of the original machining by burnishing everything smooth and rounding all the corners. If you use metal picks on it, be certain to apply pressure parallel to the surface planes, and follow the direction of the original machining marks. That way only the dirt and oxydized grime will pop off and it should reveal the good metal beneath it. Think of it kind of like picking at a scab, if you lightly tease its edges you'll get a little of the crusty scab to break free. But if you really dig at the scab you'll reopen the wound. Also if you accidentally apply too much pressure, you'll be less likely to create a noticeable gouge running across the machining marks on the grenade's surface. Remember too, anything that appears to bump out from the surface is likely to be dirt, and anything that appears to dip into the surface is likely to be a rust spot/pockmark. If you pick at the pockmarks, you may well get all the rust out, but you may also get a bigger hole than you bargained for! I'd let your bluing cover those. If you seal it after bluing, you probably won't have anything to worry about concerning those little spots you chose to leave alone.

Good Luck! And don't rush through your restoration; you can't really put the original marks back on once you've polished them off.
 

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newmagrathea

Sr Member
I was thinking those black marks(?) are left from a previous bluing and there might be rust under it :unsure: I really loved how clean the Hales 3 became and you used electrolysis on it so I felt like I should give it a go :D But then I will wire wheel it first and see how far I can go to achieve Hales 3 shininess :) Thanks!

For shielding I'm planning to use the micro-crystalline wax recommended by the British Museum :p



Thank you!
I agree with Ridire Firean vinegar and picking will be enough to get those crevices clean. Overall I think you have a pretty clean frag body and neck. I'm interested to see how the wax finish turns out.
 

Ridire Firean

Sr Member

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onderon

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'd love to know what they used, wax or otherwise, on the Flat Sided Hale's Grenade at The Imperial War Museum, the patina on it is so pretty...



... it almost looks like burl wood! It has all sorts of wonderful little smokey smutch thinly layered on the metal.
Write an email to them and ask :) I'm almost sure if they know they will tell you how is it preserved.
 

Ridire Firean

Sr Member
Write an email to them and ask :) I'm almost sure if they know they will tell you how is it preserved.
Hey onderon ! I did just that! Unfortunately they brushed off the inquiry. :(

Someone in London will have to go to their musuem and pick their brains for me in person. So if anyone across the pond wants to go check out a beauty of a Hale's grenade... please let me know what they tell you about it!
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I have renaissance wax here, and I've used it on everything from rusty graflexes to meteorite pieces. You'll have to re-apply it from time to time but it's quite nice

It comes with e Pre-Lim.. basically a cleaning paste and I made the mistake of using it and not wiping it all off. Now some of my props look like they were on hoth, based on the little bits of white stuff stuck in crevices

the Wax is invisible though, comes in a tiny can and you just wipe a little bit on and it hardens. I have not seen it remove any finish at all - johnsons and Bri paste wax will do that
 

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newmagrathea

Sr Member
Nice work. When electrolysis has not worked well for me it usually comes down to not enough current is going from the object through the water to the sacrificial metal. The things that I've done to fix this have been to make a hanger that makes more contact with the surface of the object, and add a lot more washing soda to the water (enough to make the water cloudy).
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Nice work. When electrolysis has not worked well for me it usually comes down to not enough current is going from the object through the water to the sacrificial metal. The things that I've done to fix this have been to make a hanger that makes more contact with the surface of the object, and add a lot more washing soda to the water (enough to make the water cloudy).
Thanks for sharing those secrets! ;)
 

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