DeadPool Mask Project *GiiZmOMakes*

GiiZmOMakes

New Member
DEADPOOL
Comic Influence Mask And Possible Full Costume To Come!!

Foam unfold by Cullen Cosplay
Edit by Dali
Further edits and build by #GiiZmOMakes


So I wasn't able to attach the actual pdo to here so for now, hopefully, here is the pdf and scale for now until i can figure out how.
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View attachment DEADPOOL_GiiZmOMakesMOD.pdf
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I debated making the eyes out of a more rigid material, and toward the later i was considering just building the paper pattern and coating it with EVA and EVA and napkin on the inside. In the end i went with foam and diluted EVA glue spray for the first few coats (to saturate the foam) before a few brush coats of 100% EVA Glue.
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The way they came out i decided to go with more of the comic version, not only influencing the eye design but also a more vibrant red for the fabric and thinking a hard gloss shell for the eyes instead of a faux leather overlay like I've seen.
IMG_4537.JPGStill looking for the right material for the white eyes. Again, like I've seen, most are just a white mesh. Not a fan. I was recently searching on ebay for a white window tint to tint some thin acrylic or vacuum form but none are a solid white. Hmm...

I'll worry about the eyes later, right now i have another 80 or so pieces to cut and glue first.
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For the most part, its just foam and hot glue.
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This Spirit Store prop head happens to be very close to my head size so i often use it to help "masks in progress" keep their form.
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My Plan for the foam is to be an under shell for a fabric overlay.
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Ear.
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To get a more organic look, i took the back of a sharpie to the back of the eyebrow, running it from the bridge of the nose to the point of the eye (basically to the orange foam) multiple times. Each pass making em more and more proud.
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I have a stockpile of bags for robbing the zippers off. I get em for pennies on the dollar at my local thrift store.
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Now that the shape is done..
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I can apply the glue coat, to help with rigidity.
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I than gave it a couple coats of Filler Primer.
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Over that, a few coats of Gloss Black Epoxy Spray.
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Now to the Fabric.

First things first I mark the lines where i want my seams.
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Heres the fabric i chose.
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I also accumulated these fabrics too. I was going to use the faux leather coat and weather it but seeing as how im going more comic than film, i went with the vibrant red.
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Making a pattern for the fabric. This Right side can just be flipped for the left.
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Usually i just use napkins as a backing for my tape patterns but i wanted it to be more solid for this one. I wont be pinning it down, just holding it in place and want to limit the warping while I trace around it.
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THANX!!
!!UPDATE!!

So, tape to make a pattern, masking tape for easy pealage and card stock backing for rigidity.
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Cut out pattern with overhang and made slits every curve for easy flaps. For the flaps I just ran a little hot glue on the inside of each flap and folded it over to the stencil line.
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Flipped the pattern over for the left side and did the same process.
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Once they were both cut out and preped, I ran hot glue down the front seams (the muttonchops) to hold the pattern in place.
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I took some scrap pieces of EVA foam, some fabric scraps and did some glue compairsons to not only figure out which one would work best, but also how the fabric would react, like would it show threw or not.

I decided on contact cement. Only applied on the foam in thin layers, otherwise it seeps threw. Also done in sections because it required to be held inplace for a short time and could only pinch so much. Hahaha
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*On another note...*
I might have found the white eye material!! Now, i haven't gotten around to picking one up to play with yet but, my drummer brought this on his snare to practice and i lost my mind! It might have to me layered or tooled with but it seems better than the stupid mesh i see all over the place. I refuse to use that!! Once i get one this weekend I'll post an update. Keep your fingers crossed!

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...e=&network=g&gclid=CLiqqK_dgssCFQeraQod28QAGQ
(Also at most major music stores that sell drum skins like 'Guitar Center' and such)


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Well, I did a little back tracking. I began adhering the fabric at the side of the jaw, applying contact cement to both the fabric and foam. Flipped it to lay it over and discovered a huge seeping problem. Thinking fast, I peeled it back and wrapped the tacky fabric in plastic and let it dry. I than had to methodically peel and work the edges, I previously attached, off. Having to cut some off and heat up some places.. ugh.
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My decision was for the best, the glue absolutely showed and i couldn't have left it on.


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IMG_4702.JPGThe new fabric, ready to be attached on the left. The first fabric, with glue mistake, on the right.IMG_4703.JPG



Moving on, the left side came out decent and ready for seams.
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FullSizeRender_1 (2).jpgOne thing you might notice using these PDOs is there isn't any curves. This mask is filled with organic shapes. The overall completed shape came out way beyond my cynical ass thought it would. A lot of the squared curves blend in and continue to with each pass and addition so I'm not too worried about the few square curves that shine threw.

I began to hand stitch the seam because the hot glue I used for the fold is a hard consistency to get threw consistently with a sewing machine.

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Just this little 4 inches took forever. You can tell which side I did first verses the straighter second one. haha.

I'll keep you updated.
-Giiz
 

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You could use an iron on adhesive sheet like Heat n Bond, you iron one part on the material, peel off the backing paper and iron on the piece to the mask (assuming the mask doesn't melt at 150 deg C). The advantage is it will only glue where you heat it so it can be great for really fiddly bits, plus you can also use it for joining your folds.

The eyes on some of the screen used costumes appear to be a fine speaker grill type mesh.

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I really liked the unfold on this one. It's really simple and just takes an evening to hastily put together.

Smart idea for the eyebrows and something that'll be a nice little touch through the fabric. I like the way you sectioned it off to make the fabric patterns too. Good job on this so far.
 
Thank You All For The Comments And Ideas!!
The fabric I'm using is one way stretch, other than that I have no idea what kind of fabric it is. I found it in the scraps bin, unlabeled, at Johan Fabric.



On to the pattern for the top.
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My main goal for the top was just to get the face part good, an alignment mark for the tail, and an exaggerated over all size, so I don't come up short when its finally on there and stretched and worked.

IMG_4755.JPGFrom the bridge of the nose to the forehead.IMG_4756.JPG

And since I got this before I knew about 2 way stretch i made sure to place the pattern to be able to stretch side to side. I knew i was going to have to stretch it over the crown of the head.
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Placing the pattern a little different this time around.
First, I placed pins to keep each side aligned on the forehead, making sure the bridge of the nose is lined up too.
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With this contact cement, I like to work in only enough area my fingers can pinch. Even more so when it comes to hills and valleys. I can only cover a small surface area when pinching and laying down the fabric and doing it this way limits unwanted lifting and stress of having to move quick.
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Once I hand that area glued I decided to just sew it up at that point to prevent any pulling and lifting while working within the glue's cure time.
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With the front firmly attached, I proceeded to glue the forehead. I'll more than likely be sewing as i go, at this point, with the top upholstering. I'm trying to prevent as much stress on the glue at the seam as possible.

#GiiZmOMakes

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