Limited Run DaveP's Obi Static Parts Run 2022/23 (Sign-Up Closed)

[DaveP]

**Update**

Hi everyone!

Just a quick message to wish everyone on the run, and the whole RPF a very Happy New Year!

Really looking forward to 2023, and to getting this run in to production! Thanks so much to everyone for taking part!

I'm up to date now with invoices/messages, and going to sign off until the new year. Hope everyone has a fantastic New Year celebration!

Before I go, just a little update on some work I've been doing to prepare for the weathering commissions, and a little treat for the eyes in anticipation of the run going ahead:

I'm really enjoying colourising these B&W images at the moment. **These are both publicly available images.** I've sharpened them up a bit and removed any noise to the best of my ability. The Lower image has been "doctored" a bit to get rid of some artefacts on the clamp (So it's not a 100% unaltered reference).

I did these as colour studies for the weathering commissions, and is what I'll be aiming for for the full Chronicles weathering.

Also in preparation, I've been working on the stencils for the clamp weathering and trying out a few different foils and plotter settings.

As well as using the plotter to cut the foil, I've made some stencils/guides for the rust and for the holes that need to be drilled in the clamp:

I've included the logo on the drilling template to ensure that it's applied the correct way. You'll notice the holes for the pins are closer to the edge than the ones for the screws.

I'm working on a spare replica clamp that I have to test these out. I've removed the pin from the lever and will be replacing with an accurate Folmer style pin.

I've made a stencil for the lever weathering too. It was my hope that I could remove the plating using oven cleaner or acid, but I think this particular replica is stainless, so I might have to do things a bit differently for this practice run and use paints. When the clamps for the run come in, it should be possible to eat away the plating and to rust the underlying metal.

As well as the above, I've invested in a box full of Inconel 600 heating elements. I'm planning on testing out a few weathering techniques on these in the new year and have a list of potential chemicals to try out. They're currently wrapped in a dense layer of fiberglass but once I've stripped them down to the bare metal, I'll run a few experiments.

That's all for the new year though and will keep you posted with my progress!

For now, bidding farewell to 2022 and looking forward to what 2023 will bring!

Thanks again for all your support on this run everyone! Really excited to get things moving very soon!

All the best and MTFBWY! Always,

Dave

 

[thd9791]

Holes in the clamp! Bah I forgot and that template looks amazing! I guess that also tells us where the bearing might be in the chronicles photo

 

[nailuj]

Wow Dave.
Just Wow !

 

[Sym-Cha]

Hi Dave ... excellent work sofar ... just a minor observation in your drilling template which needs to be addressed ... the hole for each pin should actually be 2 holes ... one a bit larger to thread the pin through next to a smaller hole to tighten the pin further towards the edge of the clamp ... I used your own template picture to show you what I mean ... as an example :

This was at least one observation the Master Replicas Obi-Wan replicated correctly as can be seen here :

Of course these holes are only to be seen in the Mechanismo/Chronicles pictures and therefore are optional if you want to replicate that particular sample of Obi-Wan's lightsaber ... on screen these alterations with holes for screws and pins are not apparent

Chaïm

 

[rockbottom]

Sign me up for a full weathered commission if not too late.

 

[DaveP]

Hi Dave ... excellent work sofar ... just a minor observation in your drilling template which needs to be addressed ... the hole for each pin should actually be 2 holes ... one a bit larger to thread the pin through next to a smaller hole to tighten the pin further towards the edge of the clamp ... I used your own template picture to show you what I mean ... as an example :

View attachment 1653513

This was at least one observation the Master Replicas Obi-Wan replicated correctly as can be seen here :

View attachment 1653514

View attachment 1653515

Of course these holes are only to be seen in the Mechanismo/Chronicles pictures and therefore are optional if you want to replicate that particular sample of Obi-Wan's lightsaber ... on screen these alterations with holes for screws and pins are not apparent

Chaïm

Wow! I can't believe I missed that! I've been looking at this thing so closely and that managed to slip under the radar! It's right there in the reference image!

It will absolutely be addressed in the final template, and in any commissions I do. Thanks so much for pointing it out. Really appreciate it...

I actually have a couple more accuracy mods to announce soon... Just holding off from making them public for the time being.

Sign me up for a full weathered commission if not too late.

Thanks so much Daniel! Absolutely not too late to be added to the run. DM sent. Thanks again!

 

[Ron]

I think I'm going to want a fully weathered commission as well though I'm not 100% on it. I might not want it quite as weathered as the original.

Dave, would you mind eventually sharing pictures of one of your weathered commissions? Just so I can get a better idea before I decide.

 

[DaveP]

I think I'm going to want a fully weathered commission as well though I'm not 100% on it. I might not want it quite as weathered as the original.

Dave, would you mind eventually sharing pictures of one of your weathered commissions? Just so I can get a better idea before I decide.

Hi Ron.

Absolutely! I'm happy to hold on to people's parts until they've seen the first finished one and before they make a decision. If they don't mind waiting a little longer.

No obligation of course, and if you decide to just take the unweathered hilt, I can just invoice for the shipping and get it on its way.

I should have a finished clamp today at least, but it won't have been weathered the same way, and it's not one of mine. Same stencils, but I'm having to use paints for the corrosion. It should give a good idea of how the others will look though.

I'm happy to take direction on the commissions too. Anything that you'd rather leave off/tone down is fine with me. It was pretty beat up by the end of filming!

Thanks again, Ron!

 

[Ron]

Hi Ron.

Absolutely! I'm happy to hold on to people's parts until they've seen the first finished one and before they make a decision. If they don't mind waiting a little longer.

No obligation of course, and if you decide to just take the unweathered hilt, I can just invoice for the shipping and get it on its way.

I should have a finished clamp today at least, but it won't have been weathered the same way, and it's not one of mine. Same stencils, but I'm having to use paints for the corrosion. It should give a good idea of how the others will look though.

I'm happy to take direction on the commissions too. Anything that you'd rather leave off/tone down is fine with me. It was pretty beat up by the end of filming!

Thanks again, Ron!

Awesome, thanks, Dave! Yeah, no problem. I'm happy to wait.

Yeah, sometimes the state of these props isn't always the most pleasant thing to look at lol. For example, I don't like my Luke V2 to have a dented emitter. I just don't like the way it looks despite it being accurate to ROTJ. With the Obi, yeah, it was really beat up lol. It's hard to get a true sense of what it would look like in person based on archive photos. Sometimes things look better in person. And sometimes they look worse lol.

I'm still leaning toward full weathering but it's nice to get an idea before committing .

Thanks, Dave

 

[DaveP]

**Little Update**

Still having fun cleaning up and colourising the Chronicles references.

This isn't the best reference, but I thought I'd try my best with it. Cleaned it up the best I could and colourised using examples of vintage parts as references.

Made a bit of progress on my weathering experiments too. Not final by any means, but I wanted to post in time for "Thin Neck Thursday":

The rust effect paint I went with (Edding) is surprisingly convincing. Especially for acrylic! The foil doesn't adhere to it quite as well as to the bare metal, but the paint won't be needed for the final clamps.

Since I took these pictures, I got some brass screws in, but the light had gone by the time they arrived.

I'll post some better pictures soon and continue to experiment between now and working on commissions for the run.

There's still plenty chance to jump on the run before sign up closes on the 15th.

Please DM me if you'd like to jump on before I place the order for the parts.

All the best and MTFBWY,

Dave

 

[Eruonen]

**Update**

Hi everyone!

Just a quick message to wish everyone on the run, and the whole RPF a very Happy New Year!

Really looking forward to 2023, and to getting this run in to production! Thanks so much to everyone for taking part!

I'm up to date now with invoices/messages, and going to sign off until the new year. Hope everyone has a fantastic New Year celebration!

Before I go, just a little update on some work I've been doing to prepare for the weathering commissions, and a little treat for the eyes in anticipation of the run going ahead:

View attachment 1652685

I'm really enjoying colourising these B&W images at the moment. **These are both publicly available images.** I've sharpened them up a bit and removed any noise to the best of my ability. The Lower image has been "doctored" a bit to get rid of some artefacts on the clamp (So it's not a 100% unaltered reference).

I did these as colour studies for the weathering commissions, and is what I'll be aiming for for the full Chronicles weathering.

Also in preparation, I've been working on the stencils for the clamp weathering and trying out a few different foils and plotter settings.

View attachment 1652787

View attachment 1652785

View attachment 1652782

As well as using the plotter to cut the foil, I've made some stencils/guides for the rust and for the holes that need to be drilled in the clamp:

View attachment 1652788

View attachment 1652781

I've included the logo on the drilling template to ensure that it's applied the correct way. You'll notice the holes for the pins are closer to the edge than the ones for the screws.

I'm working on a spare replica clamp that I have to test these out. I've removed the pin from the lever and will be replacing with an accurate Folmer style pin.

View attachment 1652784
View attachment 1652786

I've made a stencil for the lever weathering too. It was my hope that I could remove the plating using oven cleaner or acid, but I think this particular replica is stainless, so I might have to do things a bit differently for this practice run and use paints. When the clamps for the run come in, it should be possible to eat away the plating and to rust the underlying metal.

View attachment 1652783

As well as the above, I've invested in a box full of Inconel 600 heating elements. I'm planning on testing out a few weathering techniques on these in the new year and have a list of potential chemicals to try out. They're currently wrapped in a dense layer of fiberglass but once I've stripped them down to the bare metal, I'll run a few experiments.

That's all for the new year though and will keep you posted with my progress!

For now, bidding farewell to 2022 and looking forward to what 2023 will bring!

Thanks again for all your support on this run everyone! Really excited to get things moving very soon!

All the best and MTFBWY! Always,

Dave

It’s really interesting how yellow the top of the neck comes out. Is that something that happens on vintage grenades?

 

[schrodinger555]

It’s really interesting how yellow the top of the neck comes out. Is that something that happens on vintage grenades?

It happens on many that are in complete, assembled condition. The top part of the neck is covered by another brass part when the grenade is assembled which blocks oxidation. When you remove that part the neck underneath is quite shiny.

 

[DaveP]

It’s really interesting how yellow the top of the neck comes out. Is that something that happens on vintage grenades?

It happens on many that are in complete, assembled condition. The top part of the neck is covered by another brass part when the grenade is assembled which blocks oxidation. When you remove that part the neck underneath is quite shiny.

View attachment 1655032

That's a great explanation. Thanks Emiliano! That explains why I've seen so many like this!

That image demonstrates it perfectly.

I wonder if they cleaned it up even further in preparation for soldering/brazing to the base of the emitter/insert too.

For the brass I've allowed for colours ranging from dark brown to bright yellow, then allowed the luminosity in the image to determine the colour.

The very end part of the neck looks to be very bright (reflective), so I assumed it would appear quite yellow like bare, unoxidized brass.

 

[Eruonen]

Any frames from the film that show this area of the neck clearly? I cannot recollect.

 

[v312]

Not exactly clear, but on the Falcon after Alderaan is blown up it can be seen that there's a shiny section between the windvane and the BP that catches the light.

On the Death Star the scenes are generally too dark and I think on the few frames we can see the neck clearly it just looks black.
On the Tunisia pictures it looks very dark too, even under the sunlight.

 

[DaveP]

Any frames from the film that show this area of the neck clearly? I cannot recollect.

Not exactly clear, but on the Falcon after Alderaan is blown up it can be seen that there's a shiny section between the windvane and the BP that catches the light.
View attachment 1655222
On the Death Star the scenes are generally too dark and I think on the few frames we can see the neck clearly it just looks black.
On the Tunisia pictures it looks very dark too, even under the sunlight.

Appogies for the delayed response to the question...

These are pretty good. You can definitely make out the difference.

The top of the neck is definitely darker on the Tunisia prop. This is one of the details that suggests to me that it's a different prop entirely.

The death star scenes are very dark, but you can kind of make it out in a very brief couple of frames:

Obviously not as clear as the Chronicles pictures which were under much blighter lighting.

 

[Sni9er]

This is beautiful I'm absolutely down for a fully weathered version (UK) please, thank you so much for the hard work & dedication!!

 

[Jediguy]

this is gonna be so gorgeous.

 

[juvatwad]

Interested in a weathered version, thanks.

 

[ObiShane]

And Full Obi Static Hilt invoice paid in full. Thanks for all the work on this project Dave. Your weathering and assembly work is looking good and I might decide to jump on board that as well.