The clear acylic is to prop up the reveal board and the arrows were press fit for me. Some glue on the back would add some permanence.
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Interest DaveP's 40th Anniversary Luke Hero (Interest Thread)
- Thread starter DaveP
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- hero luke luke skywalker rotj
Thank you. Thought the reveal board just sits on top if the inner ridge of the box. Fits perfectly on mine. The clear acrylic is too shallow in depth to make contact with reveal board when sitting on the bottom.
Both of my arrows wouldn't fit, so I had to open the holes up a tiny bit with a triangular diamond needle file. And then of course the fit was a bit loose.
So I set up a jig to glue the arrows in place on the inside of the plate - I applied a little bit of Devcon 5 minute epoxy in the corners where the acrylic met the aluminum, with the edge of a #11 X-Acto blade:The board is supposed to fit INSIDE the box. That's why Dave included that piece of acrylic for the board to sit on - it puts it at the proper height. That piece of acrylic was missing from my kit, but Dave informed me that it was 6mm thick. When I made a couple blocks to approximate that height, I actually decided to make them a bit lower, so the board sits a bit lower than the switch on mine:
Both of my arrows wouldn't fit, so I had to open the holes up a tiny bit with a triangular diamond needle file. And then of course the fit was a bit loose.
View attachment 1856540
The board is supposed to fit INSIDE the box. That's why Dave included that piece of acrylic for the board to sit on - it puts it at the proper height. That piece of acrylic was missing from my kit, but Dave informed me that it was 6mm thick. When I made a couple blocks to approximate that height, I actually decided to make them a bit lower, so the board sits a bit lower than the switch on mine:
View attachment 1856541
Looks crazy beautiful friend
Interesting. For me to set it even lower for it to contact the clear acrylic, I'd have to Dremel out these side ridges. Is that what you did?
But the board sits on these 4 ridges (2 per side) quite nicely, which I think works well. Which made me think the clear acrylic was for something else.
What the heck is that?! Is that seriously a DaveP box? If so, something got changed at some point.
This is what the box in my kit looks like:
Hi Scott. Please excuse the very late reply. I've not been at the computer much this week and been busy in the workshop.
It looks like you have the older control box there (2020), which was designed for use with my early reveal board replica. This was before we knew the identity of the calculator, and didn't include the switch in the top corner.
A lot has happened since then, and obviously the board is very different. It should still be possible to install inside the older box however. Even after the rails have been fixed.
It's possible that the board may need sanding along each edge. This is very easily done. The phenolic board is essentially made out of paper, so sanding to fit is no bother. I'd lay some sandpaper flat on a worktop (maybe tape down), then sand down each edge until it fits. There shouldn't be any overhang on the rails really, so they shouldn't prevent you from inserting the board.
To install the switch, you have a couple of options. Some more labour intensive than others:
1) Slice the top of the switch off and fix to the end of the board before installing. This is fiddly, but it does work. This results in a switch that is "just for show" but it will sit on top of the ledge. Hack saw, followed by belt sander (or taped down sandpaper).
2) Dremel the ledge away and install the full switch. Obviously the more labour intensive.
3) install the switch next to the ledge and move the board along slightly. Easiest option, but not as accurate.
Sorry for the inconvenience, but the box you have was designed for the earlier board (and no switch). I have seen a few people successfully install the newer board and switch using one of these methods.
I always try to keep these as up to date as possible, but discoveries are being made all the time (sometimes mid-run!).
As for the triangles, the method that The 48th Ronin showed is exactly the way that I fix them. It just ensures that they're straight and protruding the same amount.
I hope this helps anyway. And apologies again for the delayed response.
All the best,
Dave
