Darth Vader square shroud dedicated stunt saber + Barbican

thd9791

Master Member
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Hey wait, I just realized, there is a step on this part right? There's no step on the complete unit, does some of this plate go up inside the rest of the unit?!
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey wait, I just realized, there is a step on this part right? There's no step on the complete unit, does some of this plate go up inside the rest of the unit?!
are you talking about the control box and the one on the DV6?
I think the step is actually so thin that it is actually the whole DV6 box that was cut where it sits on the barbican saber. not disassembled. that is just my idea, some will not agree :)
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
here is a drawing to explain better what I mean,
detail1.jpg


I don't think the part was dissasembled, hence why I was asking before if I should add the little detail of the DV6 as it was possibly visible in one photo of the Barbican:
detail1.jpg
step05_DV6detail.jpg
 

thd9791

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eethan

Master Member
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hey, I didn't have the last one, thank you.
at this point, I think it's just a question of decision to put that detail or not, I don't think I can do much more on that part with the references we have without having the real part in hand and seeing how it really work :)
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hello guys,
alright, tonight, no 3D model photos, real objects!
I started prototyping the shrouds and as usual, took a lot of photos of every step :)

first off, i drilled a 12mm hole at the center of the square stock with the mill and surfaced the top surface quickly:
IMG_20220725_121937.jpg


this allowed me to attach the whole thing to a M12 threaded rod and a short aluminium cylinder to put in my lathe 3 teeth chuck, I also milled the corners "quickly" to remove a bit of material there as it's really time consuming on the lathe to start from square stock.
IMG_20220725_160744.jpg


alright, on the lathe now, this is a first pass on the cylinder, I'll turn it down a little bit more later when I empty the front:
IMG_20220725_164729.jpg


next step, the front is now round so I can turn it around and put it in the chuck. allowing me to remove the threaded rod and empty the back of the shrouds for the saber tube:
IMG_20220725_165342.jpg


there we go :)
IMG_20220725_171433.jpg


and now that the back is hollow, I can turn it around again and chuck it from the inside of the part and now empty the front of the shrouds and finalize the exterior cylinder to the final size:
IMG_20220725_172806.jpg

IMG_20220725_183237.jpg

when this is done, I go back to the mill as the square part of the shroud is a bit under the 50mm size of the square stock. This is also at this point that I can add the assymetry that there is between the cylinder part and the square part of the shrouds, i'll go into more detail later on for that part and explain with my 3D model as well :)

Here is where I am tonight with the Barbican version of the core as well :)
IMG_20220725_194342.jpg


this will stay like this for a little while as I need to buy a couple cutting tools for the next steps.
I hope you like it so far :)
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
excellent! That looks like such a hard thing to machine... great job
yes I have to admit I'm a bit stressed because this is taking too long actually! I need to figure out something to go faster on the roughing up from square to cylinder!
but this is what I feel most of the time on my projects, i'm genuinely super excited because it is such a cool part and i'm so happy to be able to do that and to offer it to people, and at the same time, stressed because I'm always worried that I'm going to be too long, too expensive, especially in this case as the lightsaber world is so competitive with all the made in China stuff and larger run with more demanded, more "classic" lightsabers.
But as always, I'll try my best to offer super nice parts and seriously work really hard on offering the best price I can :)

to be continued soon I hope!
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey guys,
nothing really new to show but I did a second prototype shroud to see if I could do faster and also to have one for the Barbican and one for the square stunt to take photos of :)
I did the bevels on the square part this time on both of them, and still need to order more tools for the next steps.
IMG_20220727_191505.jpg

IMG_20220727_191534.jpg

IMG_20220727_191636.jpg


I hope you like it:)
this is done the same way they did it at the time, all with hand opperated machines :)
cheers
 

dcarty

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Those are beautiful and some wonderful work! I do want to throw this out there -- are we sure they radiused the corners on the emitter? At first blush it looks to me like they took a flat file and just knocked the corners down. Which is a pity because your work looks much nicer.
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Those are beautiful and some wonderful work! I do want to throw this out there -- are we sure they radiused the corners on the emitter? At first blush it looks to me like they took a flat file and just knocked the corners down. Which is a pity because your work looks much nicer.
hey, I wouldn't be able to say if this was actually done with a file or a radiusing tool to be honest. I matched the radius in my 3D model from what I could see on all the refs and just radiused that with a tool on the mill, the end result is pretty similar I hope.

I'm going to machine the parts "nicelly" because I wouldn't want to sell parts with a too dirty machining look, that being said, all the assymetries from the original part, all the artifacts from being made on manual machines will be there. If someone wants to take a file to the corners, it will be easy to do so afterwards if you want a more "dirty" look :)

here is a small example, there is one ref where we can see pretty clearly the turning quality on the inside of the shroud cylinder. I have a good experience at turning a clean surface even when going by hand with my tool, for instance as seen on the outside of my shrouds here, they are not made with the automatic advancement on the lathe, that being said, I purposefully went a bit "rougher" on the inside to match what we see on the original :)
inside_turning.jpg
inside.jpg

to be clear, inside turning is always a bit more dirty than outside turning, you don't really see what you do and you have to use a thin tool with a long length to reach inside, giving more vibrations and making it more difficult to get a clean result. In this case, I voluntarily didn't "try" to be too clean about it to match the original :)

to get back to the corner radius topic a bit, this will also show the hand opperated machines signature. if you want surfaces, facets, radiuses to flow perfectly from one surface to another on a lathe or mill, the piece has to be done in one go or at least repositioned perfectly in the chuck like it was the first time around.
In the case of the corner radiuses here for instance, this can't be done on a manual mill and I'm turning my piece around 90° for each bevel. the result is that the bevels are sometimes slightly un-even, which again, in this case doesn't really bother me as I'm trying to reproduce an old school made part done a bit hastily, so to me, the unperfect result is... perfectly what I want :)
I hope everyone will feel the same :)

here an example were we can see a bit the uneven bevel:
bevel.jpg


I'll just write a second post to show a bit today's tinkering.
cheers all :)
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
alright, today I worked on a setup to machine the whole back of the square part of the shroud.
It's a bit complex to do on my mill as my vice doesn't have high enough jaws to reach the square part and my mill doesn't have a lot of height either so I can't stack this part on top of my rotating chuck either.

so, I turned a little jig to put on the totating table and secure the part perfectly centered with just one screw
IMG_20220728_112548.jpg


here partially installed on the table:
IMG_20220728_112832.jpg


and here being used on the mill to see if it works nicely :)
IMG_20220728_120415.jpg


this is a test with a partial depth and length on the milling on the shroud because I don't have yet the 14mm ball end mill to finish that part, i'll put the part on the mill again and go over the whole thing with the proper measurements when I have the right tool. I just wanted to do a proof of concept here.
so, don't look at the proportions, they are not correct yet :)
IMG_20220728_122335.jpg

IMG_20220728_122355.jpg


cheers
 

eethan

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hello guys,

yeah, Halliwax, is it me or that rotating table was happy to see that shroud?? ;)

alright, so I had an idea today and it's a bit silly that I didn't think about it before, I don't need to order that new 14mm ball end mill to do the curves on the back of the shroud, I can just turn it 90° and put it in the vice for that!
IMG_20220729_144720.jpg

and the best part is, that is actually faster and cleaner! and, for the angled side, I can just rotate the vice and it will work in one go as well!
IMG_20220729_150601.jpg


nice! alright, now that this is done, I can cut the front of the shroud to the proper angle as well, first on the circular saw:
IMG_20220729_152548.jpg

then back on the mill with a fly cutter this time:
IMG_20220729_162822.jpg


and here are some photos of the mostly finished square shroud! pretty cool!
IMG_20220729_163829.jpg

straight side:
IMG_20220729_163852.jpg

angled side!
IMG_20220729_163919.jpg

IMG_20220729_163928.jpg

IMG_20220729_163949.jpg

IMG_20220729_164126.jpg

I hope you like it :)
 

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